Cerro Piergiorgio, Esperando la Cumbre. Italians GianLuca Maspes and Maurizio Giordani returned to Piergiorgio in 1996 with the intention of finishing their uncompleted Gringos Locos on the northwest face only to find their fixed ropes shredded by...

Green River Area, Felony Tower. This area is outside of the Park but approached via the Horsethief Trail road. Jim Bodenhamer, Tom Cosgriff, and Roger Schimmel climbed Felony Tower via Poncho Couldn’t Come (IV A2 5.11), with Bodenhamer, Schimmel, ...

FALL ON ROCK, PARTY SEPARATED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsOn July 21-23,1980, Matthew Maloney (22) and Phillippe Fayoux (22) were on a two-day backpacking trip in Death Canyon and Alaska Basin. While hiking the trail from Alas...

FALL ON SNOW, WEATHER – UNSTABLE SNOW CONDITIONS, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSOregon, Mount Hood, Cooper Spur RouteCarey Cardon (31) and his wife Tena Cardon (29) were experienced mountaineers training for a proposed climb of Mt. McKinley. They started ...

Rakaposhi, Northwest Ridge. As part of a six-man Colombian expedition, Anibal Pirvada climbed Rakaposhi (7788 m), summiting August 3, after climbing the northwest ridge, previously climbed in 1986 by a team from Holland. This might be the eighth a...

Mount Logan, Early Bird Buttress Attempt. During April, Mick Deiro, Tim Laughlin, Jeff Jackson and I as leader made a new route on the south face of Mount Logan. The Early Bird Buttress lies to the right of the south-southwest buttress and diagona...

Gangapurna Attempt. We had the last of the monsoon rains on the first day of our march in, followed by a long stretch of good weather. During this time we set up and stocked Advance Base at 14,500 feet and placed two camps on the mountain. We and ...

Japanese Dhaulagiri Attempt. On October 6, leader Tatsuhisa Mitoma, Koji Hayashi and Nuru Zambu Sherpa gained the team’s highest point of 7050 meters on the normal northeast-ridge route of Dhaulagiri. When they tried again after a rest, they found...

Bubbs Creek Wall was climbed on June 8 and 9, 1974 by Mark Losleben, Mike McGoey, Reed Cundiff, and Fred Beckey by a new route.

Lappland: On April 4th, 1931, the Lappland Alpine Club inaugurated at Nikkoluokta their first club hut, situated 100 miles within the Arctic Circle and forty miles from the nearest railroad. This is probably the most northern alpine hut in the world.

Makalu, West Face Attempt. Makalu has never been successfully scaled by the vast central portion of its west face. A team of Italians attempted a line halfway between the one followed in the autumn of 1981 to 7900 meters by Poles Jerzy Kukuczka an...

1992-1993 Southern Summer Season in Patagonia. Because the climbing season comes more or less at the same time as the American Alpine Journal goes to press, only a small part of the material can be covered until a year later. However, we do try to...

Mustagh Ata. Our Franco-Italian ski expedition climbed the normal route on the Mustagh Ata. We arrived at Base Camp on August 6 from Pakistan via the Kunjerab Pass. On August 16, Marc Chauvet, Paolo Henry, Pierre Gaillot, Françoise Walter, André L...

Taylor Canyon, Aphrodite, South Face, The Rotor. Mike Pennings and I completed a route on the south face a month-and-a-half after first attempting this line. The route (IV 5.10 A3+) starts in a straight-in splitter and reaches a rightward-trending...

Indrasan from the North. After bicycling from Simla to Manali, our approach began on May 8. The conditions for the porters were very difficult because of abnormally deep snow at that season. We placed Base Camp at 4300 meters at the foot of the ma...

Mount Owen, Serendipity Arête. A new route on the west side of Mount Owen was climbed on August 8 by Sterling Neale, Rick Medrick, Frank Magary, and Bill Buckingham. The route lies on a steep ridge or corner which runs diagonally across Mount Owen...

FALL ON ROCK, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS—FAILED TO PUT THEM ON Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount CollierTwo climbers, R.H. and H.B. (50), were descending Mt. Collier (3216 meters) on July 25, 1994, roped together. H.B. belayed R.H. across a 40-degree sn...

Nanga Parbat, RupalFace, Winter Attempt 1990-91. Our joint Anglo-Polish expedition flew to Gilgit on November 24, 1990. We were leader Maciej Berbeka, Jacek Berbeka, Andrzej Osika, Andrzej Samolewicz, Wojciech Szczerba, Zbigniew Terlikowski, Dr. K...

Mount Hooker, North Face, New Route, Wind River Range. The 2000-foot north face of Mount Hooker had only one recorded ascent until last summer, the Robbins-Raymond-McCracken ascent of 1964. Hooman Aprin and I made an audacious winter attempt in 19...

Mt. Prindle, McCloud. Around July 4, Ian McRae and I climbed a five-pitch (200-foot rope) route to the right of The Fleecing of America. The route, McCloud (5.9 A2), was a combina- tion of mixed and free. The climb was typical of the rock at Mt. P...