HAFE and HACE, ASCENDING TOO FASTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAfter a rapid ascent to 14,200 foot camp on the West Buttress, a member of the “Polish Female Denali 2010” expedition, Zygmunt Berdychowski (49), began experiencing signs and sy...
Gasherbrum II Ascent and Tragedy. The expedition in which I took part was a commercial one of 14 members organized by Frenchman Bernard Muller and his wife, Laurence de la Ferrière. We left Skardu on May 19 and got to Base Camp on May 31 at 5150 m...
Ogre III, first ascent. Thomas Huber, Urs Stöcker, and Iwan Wolf made the first ascent of Ogre III, the ca 6800m West Summit of Ogre II (6960m), now considered a distinct top. The Swiss-German team first inspected the approach on June 13, finding ...
Thor Peak, South Face, Odin’s Wrath. Odin’s Wrath (III-IV 5.10d) ascends a line between Satan’s Delight and Truncated Buttress on Thor Peak. The line can be very vaguely seen in the right margin of the photo on page 47 of R.J. Secor’s High Sierra ...
Our Everest Adventure, by Sir John Hunt. 128 pages, including 103 large photographs, numerous small photos, and 2 maps. English edition: Leicester, Brockhampton Press, 1954. Price, 12/6. American edition: New York, E. P. Dutton & Co., 1954. Pr...
Kanjeralwa, Kanjiroba Himal. Our expedition made the first ascent of Kanjeralwa (21,857 feet), which lies southeast of the highest peak in the Kanjiroba. Camps on the west side were established as follows: Base Camp at 12,150 feet on April 4, I at...
Pin Parbat. Six of the 11-member team from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police climbed this virgin peak (6350 meters, 20,833 feet), which lies near Matri, on August 7. The summiters were S.P.Verma, Chhering Lobzong, Chhota Singh, Harnam Singh, Khom Sin...
Medicine For The Outdoors; A Guide to Emergency Medical Procedures and First Aid. Paul S. Auerbach. Little Brown, Boston, 1986. 345 pages, profusely illustrated with line drawings; glossary, bibliography. $12.95 (paper).This is a first-class paper...
Araca Group, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, 1990-1992. The rock in this climbers’ paradise is a firm red or gray granite, in places glacially polished. The climber will find much annoying lichen, which grows high on the peaks. In 1987, nearly all the pea...
Handbook of the Canadian Rockies. Ben Gadd. Corax Press, Jasper, 1986. 878 pages, black and white and color photographs, drawings, diagrams, maps. $25.00 (Canadian).What is a middle-aged climber to do when the pack is humbling the back and it is n...
Hunter Creek, Various Ascents. The winter of 1995-1996, with its initial snow drought and extremely cold temperatures, stimulated a modern Alaskan gold rush of new ice climbs in south-central Alaska. Areas that would have been high in avalanche da...
Altai Mountains. The ascent of Belukha (5,500 m.). the highest summit of the Altai, was first attempted before the Great War. A Soviet expedition in 1932 also failed to reach the top. In 1933 the highest or East Peak was reached by a large party c...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment Peak—Eric Mendelsohn (20) and Neil H. Drake (19) had completed an ascent of Disappointment Peak and were in the process of descending to Amphitheater Lake when Mendelsohn stepped onto a snowfield ...
FALL, NO PROTECTION—California, Yosemite Valley, Tiny Tim. Mark Thompson (18) was climbing as leader on Tiny Tim. The belayer tied on one bolt and belay line running through a second bolt—both bolts being approximately 65 feet off the ground. Bela...
The effect of SARS in 2003. The outbreak of the SARS virus played havoc with many expeditions visiting China in the pre-monsoon season. On April 25 the Government of the Tibet Autonomous Region announced that it was closing its borders to both Chi...
Roh-Weht Attempt, Konka Lehsumgongba Range, Sichuan. On May 6, Steve Thomson and I came within three rope-lengths of the summit of Roh-Weht (5464 meters, 17,927 feet) in the Konka Lehsumgangba Range in Dao Chun County, Sichuan. Our attempt by the ...
White Chuck Mountain, West Face. On September 20, Jerry Som- merman, Jamie Wild and I completed a new route on the west face of White Chuck Mountain. From the bottom of the rock toe on the west face, directly beneath the summit, we climbed up gras...
Chaukhamba II Attempt. Koreans Kim Woong-Sik and three others attempted virgin Chaukhamba II (7068 meters, 23,190 feet), approaching for the first time from the Gangotri Glacier. They established Camps I, II and III at 4700, 5000 and 6200 meters b...
Cerro Piergiorgio, Pepe Rayo. Cerro Piergiorgio is a huge granite monolith at the northern end of the Torre Valle that boasts a 3,000-foot northwest face, visible only from the Patagonian ice cap. In early February, 1996, Andrea Sarchi, Mauro Gira...
Tristin’s Tower, Airport Tower, Ascents. Tristin’s Tower in the Lockhart Basin area of Canyonlands was climbed by John Burnham and Bill Duncan. Bret Ruckman and Marco Corncchione made the first free ascent of Airport Tower via Wind Shear (5.12a/b)...