Vinson Variant, 1992. André Hokke and I landed at Patriot Hill on December 11,1992 and flew to the base of the Vinson Massif on the Branscomb Glacier together with New Zealand guides Hall and Ball with their three clients. Taking advantage of good...
FALL ON ICE - UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTNew Hampshire, Huntington Ravine, Central GullyApproximately 15 minutes after being notified of the incident described above, Snow Rangers learned of a second incident unfolding in Huntington Ravine. A mountainee...
Angels of Light. Jeff Long. William Morrow, 298 pages. $18.95.Jeff Long has written a climbing Western, with philosophical overtones. Yosemite Valley provides the setting and much of the substance of his exciting and extravagant novel. This is not...
Tranquility Dome, Visions. In May Mark Blanchard, Conrad Van Bruggen and I visited this attractive 700-foot face which rises above the west side of the San Joaquin River, below Mammoth Pool Reservoir. Our route started near the left side, below a ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Half DomeOn September 17, 1992, a report of an injured climber, Rolf Schempp (25), seven pitches up the Regular Northwest Face route of Half Dome was received by NPS dispatch. A range...
Shispare Attempt, Batura Mustagh. Our members included Kenichi Masui, Yasuyuki Uehara, Tatsuya Ohmura, Takayuki Tachibana, Yetetsu Adachi and me as leader. Our Base Camp at 4050 meters on the left moraine of the Pasu Glacier was established on Jun...
Washington, Olympic Mountains (3)—On July 1, 1956 a party of 16 climbers was climbing Mt. Constance by the standard “Mountaineer Route.” They were on the “Terrible Traverse” when Jack Hazle, who was leading the traverse, slipped in the sloppy snow...
LORD MALCOLM DOUGLAS-HAMILTON 1910 - 1964Lord Malcolm Douglas-Hamilton, OBE, DFC, elected to the American Alpine Club in 1954 was killed at the age of 54 in an airplane crash in the Cameroons in July, 1964, while ferrying it to the Sabena services...
Mt. Everest, snowboard descents from 2001. On May 22,2001 I reached the summit of Mt. Everest without the help of artificial oxygen or Sherpas. As a talisman I carried a specially designed snowboard of Duotone with me and got to the very top at 3:...
Mount Sanford. Mount Sanford was attempted by two Japanese expeditions in 1976. A five-man-and-a-woman expedition climbed the north ridge. From Camp IV on April 24, 1976 Masaru Nakagawa, Minoru Naka, Tomotsu Ohfuji and Ms. Kazuko Ohmori reached th...
FALL ON SNOW—Alberta, Mt. Lefroy. Michael and Valerie Laub were descending Mt. Lefroy to Abbot’s Pass on August 10. They were cramponing down a steep slope of 3 inches of snow on a firm ice and snow base, with about 20 feet of rope between them. A...
Huascarán Norte, North Face. Our expedition, set up by the Himalayan Committee of the Fédération Française de la Montagne, left Paris on June 9 with the north face of Huascarán Norte (21,834 feet) as our objective. The expedition was composed of L...
Das Silvrettabuch, by Walther Flaig. 8 vo., 216 pages, with 54 illustrations, index and 3 maps. Munich: 1940.Das Besetz der Berge, by Mason-Rohrer. 8 vo., 250 pages, with illustrations. Munich: 1940.Um den Montblanc, by Paul Geissler. 8 vo., 50 pa...
Diran. A British expedition led by Flight Sergeant William Batson of the Mountain Rescue Team of the Royal Air Force is said to have put three members onto the summit. Details are lacking.
La Norvège d’aujourd’hui, edited by Per Vogt. 160 pages, 160 photographic illustrations. Oslo: Editions Dreyer, 1950.The stern magnificence and varied character of the Norwegian scene are here outlined. Among the subjects treated are ancient monum...
Tehipite Dome, Southwest Face. In July, Norm Weeden, Curt Chadwick, and I climbed the 2500-foot face of Tehipite Dome. We started several hundred feet below and left of Fred Beckey’s route on the Dome. Three hot days of mixed free and aid climbing...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. The principal activity for the Section in 1989, as it has been for the past several years, was the continuing Silcox renovation project. Our group raised over $50,000 for this renovation of the second ski-lift hut in the U....
Storebror, Trillingerne Group, Tasissarssik Fjord, East Greenland. Our expedition was made up of José Ramón Melón I, Albino Quinteiro M, Santiago Suárez A, Antonio Dourardo I and me. We made in August the second ascent of the highest mountain in t...
Gyachung Kang. The Federation of All Japan Mountaineering Unions expedition was composed of Ichiro Yoshizawa, deputy leader; Yukihiko Kato, Takeshi Takeda, Kazunobu Machida, Kiyoto Sakaizawa, Tadao Kitamura, Kazunari Yasuhisa, Toshiro Kikuchi, Chu...
On September 13, after two earlier attempts, Chad Kellogg and I reached the summit of previously unclimbed Seerdengpu, the high point above the heads of the Changping and Shuangqiao valleys. The north and west faces above the Shuangqiao are ...