Mount Sanford. Mount Sanford was attempted by two Japanese expeditions in 1976. A five-man-and-a-woman expedition climbed the north ridge. From Camp IV on April 24, 1976 Masaru Nakagawa, Minoru Naka, Tomotsu Ohfuji and Ms. Kazuko Ohmori reached th...
FALL ON SNOW—Alberta, Mt. Lefroy. Michael and Valerie Laub were descending Mt. Lefroy to Abbot’s Pass on August 10. They were cramponing down a steep slope of 3 inches of snow on a firm ice and snow base, with about 20 feet of rope between them. A...
Huascarán Norte, North Face. Our expedition, set up by the Himalayan Committee of the Fédération Française de la Montagne, left Paris on June 9 with the north face of Huascarán Norte (21,834 feet) as our objective. The expedition was composed of L...
Das Silvrettabuch, by Walther Flaig. 8 vo., 216 pages, with 54 illustrations, index and 3 maps. Munich: 1940.Das Besetz der Berge, by Mason-Rohrer. 8 vo., 250 pages, with illustrations. Munich: 1940.Um den Montblanc, by Paul Geissler. 8 vo., 50 pa...
Diran. A British expedition led by Flight Sergeant William Batson of the Mountain Rescue Team of the Royal Air Force is said to have put three members onto the summit. Details are lacking.
La Norvège d’aujourd’hui, edited by Per Vogt. 160 pages, 160 photographic illustrations. Oslo: Editions Dreyer, 1950.The stern magnificence and varied character of the Norwegian scene are here outlined. Among the subjects treated are ancient monum...
Tehipite Dome, Southwest Face. In July, Norm Weeden, Curt Chadwick, and I climbed the 2500-foot face of Tehipite Dome. We started several hundred feet below and left of Fred Beckey’s route on the Dome. Three hot days of mixed free and aid climbing...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. The principal activity for the Section in 1989, as it has been for the past several years, was the continuing Silcox renovation project. Our group raised over $50,000 for this renovation of the second ski-lift hut in the U....
Storebror, Trillingerne Group, Tasissarssik Fjord, East Greenland. Our expedition was made up of José Ramón Melón I, Albino Quinteiro M, Santiago Suárez A, Antonio Dourardo I and me. We made in August the second ascent of the highest mountain in t...
Gyachung Kang. The Federation of All Japan Mountaineering Unions expedition was composed of Ichiro Yoshizawa, deputy leader; Yukihiko Kato, Takeshi Takeda, Kazunobu Machida, Kiyoto Sakaizawa, Tadao Kitamura, Kazunari Yasuhisa, Toshiro Kikuchi, Chu...
On September 13, after two earlier attempts, Chad Kellogg and I reached the summit of previously unclimbed Seerdengpu, the high point above the heads of the Changping and Shuangqiao valleys. The north and west faces above the Shuangqiao are ...
Old Snowy, Alaska Range. Eleven members of the Alaska Alpine Club, led by Buck Wilson and me, used their spring vacation from March 23 to 26 to make the first ascent of Old Snowy (9700 feet) in the Castner Glacier area of the eastern Alaska Range....
Pico Bolívar, North Face. To celebrate the 44th anniversary of the first ascent of the highest mountain in Venezuela, I made on April 3 the first solo ascent of the north face of Pico Bolívar (5002 meters, 16,410 feet), reputedly one of the most d...
Little Switzerland, Various Ascents. It was reported in a Climbing magazine article that the team of John Mattson and Josh Zimmerman, with photographer John Burcham, was active in Little Switzerland. Numerous photographs of the area document the t...
Ayr Lake. The Alpine Club of Canada held an Alpine Climbing Camp of 14 people on Ayr Lake, about 40 kilometers west of Clyde River on the northeast coast of Baffin Island, from May 4 to 25. We had seen the area in 1973 and 1977 on our flights to S...
Middle Bell Tower, South Face. On September 1 Rich Ream and I approached the base of the Middle Tower after a two-hour hike up Bell’s Canyon. Two weeks earlier, Rick Reese and Rich had climbed the large dihedral on the right side of the face to a ...
FALLING ROCK Wyoming, TetonsOn August 6, Shad Dusseau, Terry Green, and Leo Larson, Park Rangers, were climbing the Black Ice Couloir on the Grand Teton on a routine mountain patrol. Dusseau had led the first ice pitch and was belaying Larson when...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNorth Carolina, Table Rock Mountain, Slipping Into DarknessOn November 1, M. H. (mid 40s) and his two sons (7 and 14) attempted the route slipping into Darkness (5.9), a variation on Helmet B...
Sigunian Shan, Sichuan. In September 1994 I was based out of Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan. From here I made two exploratory trips into the exceptional mountains of Kham, on the eastern edge of the Tibetan Plateau. First I visited the Songpan re...
Yanamarey Sur, Quisuarraju, Millishraju I and II, Artesonraju, and Curicashajana, Cordillera Blanca. Our party was a mixture of first-class with intermediate alpinists; some members took their wives along. We were Bruno and Ruth Boiler, Fréderic a...