Pik Alexander Blok, Stairway to Hell. In August, we made an ascent of a Russian 6B route on Pik Alexander Blok (5239 m). We camped under the formation and examined the blank, southwest face. Disappearing in a granite ocean, a thin scar marked the ...
SLIP ON SNOW and AVALANCHEWashington, Mount ShuksanOn June 30, 1982, Clint Kelley (69), former climbing chairman of The Mountaineers, fell to his death while ascending Mount Shuksan with a group of ten Mountaineers. In a separate accident on the s...
Mustagh Ata. In September John Amatt, leader, Lloyd Gallagher, Pat Morrow and I journeyed to the western flank of Mustagh Ata. We ascended the broad “writing-desk” slopes, choosing a route one glacier system south of that climbed in 1980 by Ned Gi...
Dumbbell Mountain, Northeast Face, 1988. On September 5, 1988, I climbed this new route. I started at the high point of the snowfield between the main and northeast peaks of Dumbbell where an obvious steep, narrow gully divides the smooth faces. I...
Devachan. Devachan (6187 meters, 20,300 feet) was climbed on June 2 by a 39-member team from the Indian National Cadet Corps. On the way down to Base Camp Satyajit De, Shankar Tahkuti and Mohammad Shafi got separated from the main body in a blizza...
Colorado, Parnassus Peak. On 7 September a group from the Colorado Mountain Club was ascending Parnassus Peak, an above timberline climb. They were aware of a storm in the distance, and some of the group turned back about 500 feet below the summit...
ILLNESS, IMPROPER RAPPEL PROCEDURE, FALL ON ROCK British Columbia, Bugaboo Mountains, Snowpatch SpireOn August 8, 1988, Bruce MacNab (24) and Martin Condor left the Conrad Kain Hut to climb the Southeast Corner route on Snowpatch Spire (Grade IV, ...
DEBORAH MARSHALL1965-1996I met Debbie when she joined the Annapurna IV 1996 Memory Climb in the fall of 1995 at an organizational meeting at my house with her son Zach. I was very impressed that this woman considered climbing mountains so importan...
Supplemental Notes on Early American AscentsMontanvert. One of the first American women to visit Chamonix was Fanny W. Hall, whose Rambles in Europe in 1836 appeared in two volumes (New York, 1836). Her excursion to the Mer de Glace was facilitate...
Vasiliki Tower, South Face Direct, Wine Spires. This is a two- or three-pitch, well protected climb (5.9). We started at the col between Vasiliki and Burgundy Spires with scrambling to a rightward-trending dihedral system below the south face. Ins...
Mount Adams, White Salmon Glacier. This new route was completed on the west side of the peak on July 3 by George Fraser, James Kurtz, Lex Maxwell, Robert Swenson, Dr. Ralph Uber and Louis Ulrich. The ascent started after an approximate two-mile tr...
ROCKFALL FROM PARTY ABOVE, POOR POSITIONAlberta, Canadian Rockies, Abbott's PassOn July 6, JPL was approaching Abbot’s Pass hut from the Lake O’Hara side when a party above kicked off a very large loose rock (approximately 1.5 metres by one metre)...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempts and Tragedy. A Pakistani Army expedition was high above the Gasherbrum La, following the Japanese couloir. Four members were trying to establish Camp III above 7000 meters when one of them became ill and another...
Cordillera Apolobamba. To the east of Lake Titicaca not far from Ulla Ulla, Werner Karl, Hans Wimmer, and Hans Richter, of the Berchtesgaden section of the Deutscher Alpenverein, explored and climbed for five weeks in the little-known Cordillera A...
Amin Brakk, New Route. Juan Miranda and I arrived in Islamabad on June 3 with the intention of climbing a new route on the 1300-meter west face of Amin Brakk (5850m). We established Base Camp on the Changma Glacier at 4300 meters. Our idea was to ...
Everest Funeral Expedition. As noted above, on May 26 five Polish mountaineers were killed in a tragic avalanche accident. In the late autumn, a special burial expedition was arranged by the Polski Zwiazek Alpinismu (Polish Alpine Association). On...
Peaks near Mount Lunn, Northern Cariboos. After Wayne Misener, Bill Robinson, Warren Thompson and I had driven in deteriorating weather to McBride, we drove along a well-maintained logging road 25 miles up Castle Creek to the road end at 3500 feet...
Manaslu, South Face Attempt. An American expedition led by Austin Weiss was composed of John Owen, Craig Dobkin, Clyde Soles, Jim Graham, Mark Kightlinger, Deborah Eads and Mark Selland. Their high point on the south face was 7800 meters, reached ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount MoranOn July 28th, Alison Arnold (53) fell approximately ten to 15 feet while descending the CMC route on Mount Moran. Arnold was down-climbing into the Drizzlepuss Notch ...
British Columbia and AlbertaAscents in the Northern Purcell Range, 1952. In late July three members of the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club, Bill Briggs, Bob Collins, and the writer, with John Briggs, arrived in Spilli- macheen, B. C., to begin a tri...