Thalay Sagar Attempt. Kitty Calhoun and I started up the north face of Thalay Sagar on September 18 with seven days’ food, one rope and a portaledge. We hoped to climb the face’s central couloir. Climbing on the lower apron was slowed by thin 60° ...
Mir Samir. The Ulster Afghanistan Expedition made two new routes on Mir Samir (19,059 feet). Mick Curran, Trevor Mitten and I climbed the southwest couloir in July, 1971, with one bivouac on the way up and one on the descent. Although nowhere undu...
Huntington, Winter Attempt. On February 14, 1994, Dr. Robert O’Brien and I planned to be flown to the branch of the Tokositna Glacier beneath Huntington’s west face to attempt a winter ascent of the Nettle-Quirk route. During the fly-in, the pilot...
On May 26, solo climber Luc Benoit (40) sustained an un-roped fall of approximately 1000 feet down the West Rib. The next day Ranger Tucker Chenoweth flew with pilot Andy Hermansky in the contract A-star B3 helicopter 3AE to the scene and picked...
Gasherbrum II Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition was not the only one to experience tragedy in the Gasherbrum group. A Mexican climber succumbed to pulmonary edema on Hidden Peak and a French monoskier fell 1200 meters to his death on Gasherbrum ...
Ogre’s Thumb, new route. Italians, Matteo Castelnuovo, Guiseppe Lafranconi, Alberto Marazzi, Simone Pedeferri, and Marco Vago, put up a new route on the South Face of the Ogre’s Thumb (ca 5500m). Ragni sul Filo (700 meters) has 18 pitches with dif...
South Col, One Man’s Adventure on the Ascent of Everest, 1953, by Wilfred Noyce. 303 pages, 5 maps, 4 colored plates, 71 photographs, and 16 drawings. Melbourne, London, Toronto: William Heineman Ltd., 1954.In this interesting and well written boo...
Kangbachen Attempt. A post-monsoon expedition of Rikko University, Japan, was led by Yoshikuno Sakai and Takeo Yamanoi. They attempted the northwest face from the Ramtang Glacier. After continuous snowfall for 60 hours, the route beyond Camp IV (2...
Bandar Punch II. An Indian expedition got to Base Camp from the roadhead at Sukhi and moved over the Sukhi Top and Khagi Pass to establish Base Camp on June 1. Camps I and II were at 18,000 and 19,500 feet, the latter on the upper snowfield of Ban...
Avalanche Safety for Skiers & Climbers. Tony Daffern. Rocky Mountain Books, Calgary, 1983. 172 pages, black and white photographs, diagrams, glossary, bibliography. $11.50 (Canada).Daffern directs this book to the mountaineer or back-country s...
Santa Rosa, Jachacuno Collo, Jacha Cuapirota, Yaypuri, P 5540, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. Thomas Miyagawa and I climbed three peaks in the Campanani group from Base Camp at the Chojña Khota mine. After a steep, icy ascent of the southwest face to the...
Rocky Mountain National Park: Classic Hikes & Climbs. Gerry Roach. Fulcrum, Inc., Golden, Colorado, 1988. 254 pages, black and white photographs. $14.95 (paper).Climbers should rejoice when armed with this passionate compilation of trails, rou...
Portage Glacier Valley, and Along the Seward Highway, Various Ascents. South of Anchorage, in the Portage area, Dave Miller and partners made a number of first ascents during the 1995-’96 season. At the entrance of Bear Valley, Miller and Chris Br...
Tian Shan Mountains (Northeast of the Pamirs). Following the recent expeditions culminating in the successful ascent in 1931 of the giant peak Khan Tengri (6,990 m.), an expedition was sent out in 1933 to explore the western part of the range. Its...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Teewinot—On August 15, Dr. Norman Lee (44) was leading a rope of three other persons up the Black Chimney just beneath the summit of Mt. Teewinot. Lee led a difficult 12-15 foot crack. While standing apparen...
NUT FAILURE—California, Yosemite, Washington’s Column. Nick Donnelly (23), having led the first pitch, belayed Alistair Miller (21), who, when he reached Donnelly, clipped into a nut above the belay anchor while Donnelly belayed the third climber,...
Mustagh Ata, The Golden Eye, new route with ski descent. On July 18, “Sneaky” Pete Lardy, Chad McFadden, and Tom McMillan completed a route to the summit of Mustagh Ata (7,546m). The team then descended the route on skis and snowboard. The trio cl...
Anyemaqin Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Nobumi Nakazawa, Nobuo Matsumoto, Kuniharu Okawa, Akihito Tujino, Tatsushi Aono and me as leader. On July 28, we set up Base Camp at 4500 meters east of Anyemaqin. Camp I was established on July 30...
East McMillan Spire, South Face/East Ridge. On August 22, Jerry Baillie, Doug Sanders, and I climbed this route on East McMillan Spire. We began at the bottom of a rotten gully about 100 yards east of the standard gully route. This right-slanting ...
Satopanth. There were three successful expeditions to Satopanth (7075 meters, 23,540 feet), which climbed the normal north ridge. These were 6 South Koreans led by Jo Joong-Il, 7 Irishmen led by Ciaran Clissman and 3 Japanese led by Yoshihiki Yama...