Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped, Oregon, Smith Rock State Park, Monkey Face Spire

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED Oregon, Smith Rock State Park, Monkey Face SpireOn May 22, Terry Mitchell (22) a Willamette University student and climbing instructor, set out to free-climb, without the aid of ropes or safety devices. Wit...


Book Reviews AAJ
From the Black Forest to Tibet: One Woman's Mountains

From the Black Forest to Tibet: One Woman’s Mountains. Trudy Healy. New York: Vantage Press, 1993. Illustrated by the author. 288 pages. $18.95.Trudy Healy has written a charming book:This climbing memoir has something of interest to every mountai...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Callifornia, Sierra Nevada Range, The Balls

The Balls. There are four main domes at the Balls, an area just north of Bass Lake and Oakhurst. All are immediately north of a dirt road leading to the area. From west to east, the domes have tentatively been named Ski Track Dome, Little Dome, Te...


Book Reviews AAJ
Glacial Features of Jackson Hole, Wyoming

Glacial Features of Jackson Hole, Wyoming, by Fritiof M. Fryxell. Rock Island, III. 1930. Augustana Library Publications, No. 13. $1.50.This monograph deals with the glaciers which covered the famous Jackson Hole in ancient times. It describes the...


In Memoriam AAJ
John Edgar Breitenbach, 1935-1963

JOHN EDGAR BREITENBACH1935–1963John Edgar Breitenbach was killed on March 23, 1963 in the Khumbu Icefall of Mount Everest by a collapsing wall of ice.Jake climbed throughout North America, made significant ascents in the Tetons, climbed McKinley b...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, La Plata Peak

Colorado, La Plata Peak—On March 19, Karl Pfiffner (25), George Hurley (25), and Ron Bierstedt (25), climbed La Plata Peak (14,340 feet) by way of the Ellingwood Ridge. They turned back at about 13,000 feet because of the hour, and followed the ri...


Accident Reports ANAM
Ohio, Practice Cliff near Dublin

Ohio, Practice Cliff near Dublin. The climb was a routine practice climb of about 40 feet in a limestone ravine at Dublin, Ohio. The weather was not a contributory factor, and the rock was dry. The pitch that Chet Hedden (21) chose on July 1 was a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Easy-Heather Traverse, Repeat with Variations

Easy-Heather Traverse, repeat with variations. In July 2001 I traversed the ridgeline of peaks from Easy Pass to Heather Pass along the north boundary of the south block of North Cascades National Park. I began at 6:06 a.m. from the Easy Pass trai...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, No Hard Hat, British Columbia, Squamish, Little Smoke Bluffs

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HATBritish Columbia, Squamish, Little Smoke BluffsOn March 12, 1981, Clayton Maitland (19) was attempting to free solo a 40-foot-high thin crack called Flying Circus which is graded 5.10. He did not seem to ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Sierra Nevada Natural History, An Illustrated Handbook

Sierra Nevada Natural History, An Illustrated Handbook by Tracy I. Storer and Robert L. Usinger. Berkeley and Los Angeles, California; University of California Press, 1963. 374 pages; 24 color plates. Price $4.95.A compact guide to the fauna and f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Premier Group, Cariboo Mountains

Premier Group, Cariboo Mountains. Our party of six, Frances Chamberlin, Gertrude Smith, Dave Fisher, Wally Joyce, Gerry Neave and Roger Neave left Jasper on July 30, drove to Valemount, and then up the Canoe valley to the point where the logging r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hunter, Attempt on South Face

Mount Hunter, Attempt on South Face. (The author of this note was a recipient of a grant from the American Alpine Club’s Boyd N. Everett Jr. Climbing Fellowship Fund. — Editor.) Bill St. Lawrence, another companion and I attempted the south face o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori, Winter Ascent

Pumori, Winter Ascent. A three-man South Korean expedition made the second winter ascent of Pumori via the south ridge. The expedition leader Nam Sun-Woo and Sherpa Lhakpa Gyalgen left Camp II at 21,150 feet, bivouacked at 22,300 feet and reached ...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Cascade Section

A.A.C., Cascade Section. The section continued its liaison work with the National Park Service participating in conferences aimed at liberalizing the winter climbing rules for Mount Rainier and serving on an advisory board for approving winter asc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia–Coast Range, Mount Tiedemann, South Ridge, 1983

Mount Tiedemann, South Ridge, 1983. During five days in August 1983, Jim Nelson and I climbed the previously unascended south ridge of Tiedemann. We started up the Tiedemann-Asperity couloir one afternoon, and climbed the broken glacier to a bivou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Noghor Zom, Pegish II, Kotgaz Glacier Region, Eastern Hindu Kush

Noghor Zorn, Pegish II, Kotgaz Glacier Region, Eastern Hindu Kush. The Yokohama Sanryokai expedition was led by Miki Yanagishima and further composed of Nobuo Saito, Miss Tsuneko Kobayashi and Miss Midori Noji. After leaving Chitral on July 3, the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falls into Crevasse, Climbing Unroped, Off Route, Washington, Mount Rainier, Interglacier

FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, OFF ROUTEWashington, Mount Rainier, InterglacierOn July 22, Thomas Porro (41) fell into a crevasse on the Interglacier. He was traveling with a partner, Mike Spillane, but they were not roped. Porro said he sa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Rocky Mountains of Canada, The Stanley Mitchell Hut

The Stanley Mitchell Hut in Little Yoho Valley is now open for use, and facilitates ascents in the President Range and on adjacent peaks. The location and uses of the hut are described in C. A. J. , xxvii, 73.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Tower Mountain, Tower of Babble Washington, Sloan Peak, Full Moon Fever

Rolf Larson and I bushwhacked up Swamp Creek on September 4, aiming for a new route on the northeast face of 8,444' Tower Mountain, whose shattered rock is notorious for turning back adventurers. Only one known route has been established on this...

| Published N/A | Author Eric Wehrly


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Artesonraju, Cordillera Blanca, and Jatunhuma and Ausangate, Cordillera Vilcanota

Artesonraju, Cordillera Blanca, and Jatunhuma and Ausangate, Cordillera Vilcanota. On April 30 the Germans Werner Kabl and Horst Caha made the fourth ascent of Artesonraju, climbing the north ridge. Then they went to the Cordillera Vilcanota where...