Vasiliki Tower, South Face Direct, Wine Spires. This is a two- or three-pitch, well protected climb (5.9). We started at the col between Vasiliki and Burgundy Spires with scrambling to a rightward-trending dihedral system below the south face. Ins...
Mount Adams, White Salmon Glacier. This new route was completed on the west side of the peak on July 3 by George Fraser, James Kurtz, Lex Maxwell, Robert Swenson, Dr. Ralph Uber and Louis Ulrich. The ascent started after an approximate two-mile tr...
ROCKFALL FROM PARTY ABOVE, POOR POSITIONAlberta, Canadian Rockies, Abbott's PassOn July 6, JPL was approaching Abbot’s Pass hut from the Lake O’Hara side when a party above kicked off a very large loose rock (approximately 1.5 metres by one metre)...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempts and Tragedy. A Pakistani Army expedition was high above the Gasherbrum La, following the Japanese couloir. Four members were trying to establish Camp III above 7000 meters when one of them became ill and another...
Cordillera Apolobamba. To the east of Lake Titicaca not far from Ulla Ulla, Werner Karl, Hans Wimmer, and Hans Richter, of the Berchtesgaden section of the Deutscher Alpenverein, explored and climbed for five weeks in the little-known Cordillera A...
Amin Brakk, New Route. Juan Miranda and I arrived in Islamabad on June 3 with the intention of climbing a new route on the 1300-meter west face of Amin Brakk (5850m). We established Base Camp on the Changma Glacier at 4300 meters. Our idea was to ...
Everest Funeral Expedition. As noted above, on May 26 five Polish mountaineers were killed in a tragic avalanche accident. In the late autumn, a special burial expedition was arranged by the Polski Zwiazek Alpinismu (Polish Alpine Association). On...
Peaks near Mount Lunn, Northern Cariboos. After Wayne Misener, Bill Robinson, Warren Thompson and I had driven in deteriorating weather to McBride, we drove along a well-maintained logging road 25 miles up Castle Creek to the road end at 3500 feet...
Manaslu, South Face Attempt. An American expedition led by Austin Weiss was composed of John Owen, Craig Dobkin, Clyde Soles, Jim Graham, Mark Kightlinger, Deborah Eads and Mark Selland. Their high point on the south face was 7800 meters, reached ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount MoranOn July 28th, Alison Arnold (53) fell approximately ten to 15 feet while descending the CMC route on Mount Moran. Arnold was down-climbing into the Drizzlepuss Notch ...
British Columbia and AlbertaAscents in the Northern Purcell Range, 1952. In late July three members of the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club, Bill Briggs, Bob Collins, and the writer, with John Briggs, arrived in Spilli- macheen, B. C., to begin a tri...
Vinson Variant, 1992. André Hokke and I landed at Patriot Hill on December 11,1992 and flew to the base of the Vinson Massif on the Branscomb Glacier together with New Zealand guides Hall and Ball with their three clients. Taking advantage of good...
FALL ON ICE - UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTNew Hampshire, Huntington Ravine, Central GullyApproximately 15 minutes after being notified of the incident described above, Snow Rangers learned of a second incident unfolding in Huntington Ravine. A mountainee...
Angels of Light. Jeff Long. William Morrow, 298 pages. $18.95.Jeff Long has written a climbing Western, with philosophical overtones. Yosemite Valley provides the setting and much of the substance of his exciting and extravagant novel. This is not...
Tranquility Dome, Visions. In May Mark Blanchard, Conrad Van Bruggen and I visited this attractive 700-foot face which rises above the west side of the San Joaquin River, below Mammoth Pool Reservoir. Our route started near the left side, below a ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Half DomeOn September 17, 1992, a report of an injured climber, Rolf Schempp (25), seven pitches up the Regular Northwest Face route of Half Dome was received by NPS dispatch. A range...
Shispare Attempt, Batura Mustagh. Our members included Kenichi Masui, Yasuyuki Uehara, Tatsuya Ohmura, Takayuki Tachibana, Yetetsu Adachi and me as leader. Our Base Camp at 4050 meters on the left moraine of the Pasu Glacier was established on Jun...
Washington, Olympic Mountains (3)—On July 1, 1956 a party of 16 climbers was climbing Mt. Constance by the standard “Mountaineer Route.” They were on the “Terrible Traverse” when Jack Hazle, who was leading the traverse, slipped in the sloppy snow...
LORD MALCOLM DOUGLAS-HAMILTON 1910 - 1964Lord Malcolm Douglas-Hamilton, OBE, DFC, elected to the American Alpine Club in 1954 was killed at the age of 54 in an airplane crash in the Cameroons in July, 1964, while ferrying it to the Sabena services...
Mt. Everest, snowboard descents from 2001. On May 22,2001 I reached the summit of Mt. Everest without the help of artificial oxygen or Sherpas. As a talisman I carried a specially designed snowboard of Duotone with me and got to the very top at 3:...