Sumeru Parbat Attempt, South Ridge, 1989. Geoffrey Degens, Alan King, Richard Sullivan and I made the first ascent of the south ridge of Sumeru Parbat (6331 meters, 20,770 feet) in September 1989 but had to quit 400 feet below the summit because o...
Losar Valley, Pt 6,000m, (first?) ascent and Dawa Kangri, second ascent. A 10-member team from Kolkatta led by Ujjal Ray climbed in Spiti’s Losar valley. They first climbed an unnamed peak of 6,000m. The summit was reached on August 28 by Rajan Ai...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. A newly revived expedition fund enabled the DMC to support two expeditions in the summer of 1973. One of these climbed the southeast ridge of Mount Hunter in Alaska, while the other spent a very productive three week...
P 6180, Mustang Himal and Source of the Kali Gandaki. Austrian Helmut Burisch and I followed up the Kali Gandaki to where it forks near the Tibetan border. The bigger branch flowed from the northwest from the heart of the Mustang Himal. It obvious...
The Siege of Nanga Parbat, by Paul Bauer. London: RupertHart-Davis, 1956. 211 pages; 23 photographs; 2 maps. Price 25 s. Paul Bauer, famous for his climbs on Kangchenjunga, was also closely connected with Nanga Parbat. He considered it as a climbi...
HAPE–EXACERBATED BY PRE-EXISTING CHEST COLDWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons RouteOn July 11 at 0930, Mount Rainier National Park received a distress call from three climbers high (13,500-foot level) on the Emmons Route. One of the climbers (30) w...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. The Rocky Mountain Section is the largest Section in the Club, both in terms of geography covered (Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado and New Mexico) and number of members. Its members are among the most active...
K2, north face attempt, north ridge ascent. After abandoning their dreams of an alpine-style new route on the north face of K2 because of severe weather and poor climbing conditions, Serguey Samoilov and Denis Urubko succeeded on the rarely climbe...
Green River Area, The Warlock, Free Ascent. This area is outside of Canyonlands National Park but approached via the Horsethief Trail road. In October, 1997, Marco Cornacchione and Bret Ruckman climbed the first free ascent of Dude, That’s Not Fun...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESMassachusetts, Chapelbrook Reservation, Chapel LedgesOn August 10, Pam Chavis (25) fell 75 feet from Chapel Ledges, where she was attempting her first free-solo climb. She had reached for a handho...
Asgard and Friya, Baffin Island. Mike Pelchat, Jeff Tirey, Jack Corbin and I flew to Pangnirtung on April 22. By April 26, Base Camp was established at the intersection of the Caribou and Kings Highway Glaciers. The Swiss Route on Mount Asgard was...
Patterson Bluff, Western Slope, Various Activity. Located just down the road from the Courtright Reservoir area, Patterson has long been considered a hidden jewel, with a hot, brushy, snake-infested approach to the base from below far too heinous ...
EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONECalifornia, Mt. ShastaOn August 15, 1978, Martin Thomas (67) was reported missing on Mt. Shasta. On August 11, he had been left at the 13,000 foot level to climb alone to the top by a Sierra Club leade...
Alberta, Mt. Eisenhauer. On August 14, Adolf Bauer (26), Louise Carter (18), and Gerard Bots (30) climbed the southeast tower of Mt. Eisenhauer uneventfully. Carter and Bots rappeled down the first steep pitch while Bauer climbed down. Bots was to...
Kirat Chuli (Tent Peak), Attempt. The Sachsischer Bergsteigerbund and the Akademische Sektion Dresden (two local sections of the German Mountaineering Association) carried out a Youth Expedition from September 17 to November 11, 1995. The 11 team ...
RAPPEL ERROR-INADEQUATE ANCHOR, WEATHER, CLIMBING ALONEAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Snowdome, SlipstreamOn the afternoon of March 24, M.G. and C.G. made their way up the Dome Glacier to establish a basecamp below Mount Snowdome. Their obje...
Deborah, West Face. Andy Reynolds, Keith Eckelmeyer and I made the third ascent of the west face of Deborah. Although it was a great climb, nothing really noteworthy took place. We repeated the straightforward west-face route, the most direct and ...
Annapurna Ascent and Tragedy. A Japanese expedition pioneered a new route between the 1970 British and the 1981 Polish routes on the south face of Annapurna. They established Base Camp at 13,400 feet in the upper Modi Khola on August 28. They had ...
Montañas del Sol. Guía de Ascensiones a las Montañas del Ecuador. Freddy Landázuri, Iván Rojas and Marcos Serrano. Ediciones Campo Abierto, Quito, Ecuador, 1994. 148 pages, 32 black-and-white photographs, 12 line drawings and sketch maps.
Aconcagua, All-Women Ascents. The highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere had been ascended several times by women, some of whom perished by exhaustion or because of the dreaded blizzards, locally called viento bianco, or “white wind.” The firs...