Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Failure of Rappel—Knot Came Undone, No Hard Hat, West Virginia, Seneca Rocks

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF RAPPEL—KNOT CAME UNDONE,NO HARD HATWest Virginia, Seneca RocksOn October 12, 1994, Imtiaz Lalvi (32) and David Lue-Chee-Lip (26) had just finished climbing Candy Corner to Skyline Traverse. When they arrived at Lower Broad...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Colombia, Pico Cólon, Pico Bolívar and Other Peaks

Pico Colón, Pico Bolívar and other peaks. An expedition of our club, made up by H. Frank, J. L. Moreno and me, placed Base Camp near lake Usugaca. A very large group of German trekkers also camped nearby. On December 25, our group climbed Pico Tai...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Contiguous United States, Utah, Zion, West Temple, Southeast Face, Full Steam Ahead

West Temple, Southeast Face, Full Steam Ahead. From February 11-24, Ammon McNeely soloed the route Full Steam Ahead (VI 5.10 A4) on the southeast face of West Temple. Gabe McNeely belayed him on the first pitch. The first and sixth pitches have de...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Oregon Section

A.A.C., Oregon Section. The Oregon Section is continuing the testing of ice screws on Mount Hood under Jack Baldwin’s able direction. This program will continue through early spring, with a full report to follow the completion of the testing. As u...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Oregon, Columbia River Gorge, Broughton Bluff

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Oregon, Columbia River Gorge, Broughton BluffOn May 28, Kurt Gierlich (42) fell 60 feet to the ground from a route on Broughton Bluff. Someone with a portable phone called 911, and a rescue followed. Twelve resc...


Book Reviews AAJ
Aconcagua-Quaderns d'Alpinisme No 4

Aconcagua—Quaderns d’Alpinisme N° 4. Carles Capellas, Editor. Servei General d’Informació de Muntanya, Centre de Documentació Alpina, Apartat de Correus 330, Sabadell, Barcelona, Spain, 1993. 32 pages, photographs, maps, diagrams, route sketches. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada Range, Mount Chamberlin, West Pillar

Mount Chamberlin, West Pillar. The 1400-foot vertical granite face of this peak is not fully visible from any road or major trail, and thus it escaped the recent heavy pressure of Sierra rock climbing until July when Mike Farrell and I made the ro...


Book Reviews AAJ
A Guide to Sequioa and General Grant National Parks

A Guide to Sequoia and General Grant National Parks, by Ansel F. Hall, chief naturalist of the National Park Service. Illustrated by Donald G. Kelly. National Parks Publishing House, Berkeley, California. 1931).This attractive little book should b...


In Memoriam AAJ
David Ambler Sowles, 1933-1963

DAVID AMBLER SOWLES1933–1963David Ambler Sowles was born on October 16, 1933, and was killed in a tragic climbing accident on August 4, 1963 during an electrical storm while descending the north ridge of the Weisshorn after a successful ascent of ...

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Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Long's Peak

Colorado, Long’s Peak—On April 19, Prince D. Willmon (23) (Leader),David L. Jones (18), Jane R. Bendixen (18) and James Greig, left Long’s Peak campground early to climb the east face of Long’s Peak. They reached the base of Alexander’s Chimney ab...


Accident Reports ANAM
West Virginia, Nelson Rocks

West Virginia, Nelson Rocks. On April 22 George Farrow, Jerry Frederick, and Beverly Frederick were doing practice climbs on the cliffs. The day was sunny and the rock was dry. They had finished their climbing and decided to rappel down. They had ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Mount Logan, Northwest Ridge

Mount Logan, Northwest Ridge. So ends my fascination this year with remote Mt. Logan. My first solo foray led to the fastest ascent to date: just over 24 hours car-to-car. That was a long day in July. On October 1 I found my own little version of ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Failure to Follow Route, Party Separated, Stranded, Frostbite, British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount Assiniboine

FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATED, STRANDED, FROSTBITEBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount AssiniboineOn August 2, 1981, a party of two from the eastern United States climbed Mount Assiniboine from the hut. On the descent they separated...


Book Reviews AAJ
The North Central Cascades

The North Central Cascades. A painted pictorial relief map in oblique aerial view. Copyrighted by George W. Martin and Richard A. Pargeter. Price $2.25.The Cascade Range of Washington shows the intricacies of the structural and geomorphological st...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Selkirk Mountains, Mount Sir Donald, North Face

Mount Sir Donald, North Face, Selkirks. Almost since the time I began climbing I had heard about the appeal of the unclimbed north face of Sir Donald. This summer was the first time I had an opportunity to visit the beautiful Selkirk Range, and as...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Bavarian Expedition to Brooks Range

Bavarian Expedition to Brooks Range. Reiner Neuger, E. Griessl, George Gruber, G. Mändl and W. Münster flew to Peters Lake by float plane. There they made their Base Camp for their climbs in the Franklin and Romanzof Mountains of the Brooks Range....


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Cholatse Ascent, Taboche Attempt

Cholatse Ascent, Taboche Attempt. A Swiss expedition was led by Dr. Heidi Lüdi. They climbed a new route, the southeast ridge, on Cholatse (6440 meters, 21,130 feet). They established three high camps. They reached the summit twice: on October 18 ...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section

A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. Since Dave Roberts gave a program concerning his ascent of Mount Huntington, there have been two meetings of the section. One was held in May, at which Professor Harold F. Walton spoke on climbs in the Cordillera Bl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia–Coast Range, Athena Tower, East Buttress; Manitou Peak, Northwest Face, Pantheon Range

“Athena Tower”, East Buttress; Manitou Peak, Northwest Face, Pantheon Range. After spending ten tent-bound days on the Zeus-Pegasus Col, the weather finally cleared. On August 20, Greg Collum, Fred Beckey and I walked to the west end of the col, t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Falak Sar, Swat Kohistan

Falak Sar, Swat Kohistan. After the Meijo University expedition (Kohtaro Ohyama, Yutaka Arita, Munechika Sawada, Yamamasa Ueno and Hironari Hirabayashi) had climbed Mir Samir in Afghanistan, they went through Kalam and Matiltan to the Falak Sar va...