Mexico: (3) Popocatepetl volcano. On 15 October 1950 two deaths and 10 serious and several hundred minor accidents occurred to mountain enthusiasts who had turned out for the celebration of the International Mountain Climbers Fraternity. This was ...
Torre Central de Paine, East Face, “Riders on the Storm" Route 1990-1991. We climbed a new route on the central part of the east face of the Central Paine Tower. The wall is about 1300 meters high with excellent quality, vertical, compact granite...
Mount MacDonald, Little Face. My cousin Alan Dane Waterman and I made a new route on the Little (east) Face of Mount MacDonald, some five miles east of Rogers Pass, which finished on a shoulder of the mountain (climbed a day later to the summit by...
Development of the Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund, and Khan Tengri, Attempt. Anatoli Boukreev was one of the great high-altitude climbers of modem times. His prolific career bridged the apex of Soviet mountaineering, its disintegration with the US...
Cape Farewell, South Greenland. A French party—M. and Mme. Jean Syda, Henri Bouchez, Guy Cholet, Henri Leblanc, and Maurice Martin— made six first ascents above the Torsukatak Fjord and two above the Kangi- kitsok during July and August 1957.
Dhaulagiri Attempt and Tragedy. After our success on Indrasan in April, the Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne hoped to climb Dhaulagiri in September and October, one group by the east face and the other by the normal route. In the second week of ...
Rajuntay, South Ridge, Cordillera Central. An experienced Italian group traveled to the Italian Alpine Club hut in the Santa Eulalia valley. On August 2 they moved to a 14,775-foot base in the valley opposite the one where the hut was. Camp I was ...
Kalanag. Despite the fact that Kalanag was first climbed in 1957 and that there have been numerous ascents since, our group of Dartmouth students, with limited mountaineering experience, undertook its challenge. Inspired by Freshman Rupin Dang, so...
Mount Vancouver, North Buttress, 1975. (We now have details which were lacking last year.—Editor) The Hachi Expedition was composed of Norishige Seki, Miss Shizuko Inazawa, Yasuo Tagen, Kohichi Sano, Kenji Okada, Hiroshi Nunobiki and me as leader....
FALL ON ROCK – RAPPEL ERROROregon, Beacon Rock State ParkOn July 24, Nathan Turner (30) was on the second rappel of Jill’s Thrill at Beacon Rock. But he had threaded the single rope through a fixed anchor with both ends of the rope over the ledge....
Chicago Mountaineering Club. The club’s increasing membership continues to tax the organization’s leadership resources. Despite overly large climbing parties the climbing leaders provide a high grade of training to beginners and try to promote the...
Thor Peak, South Face, Lucifer’s Hammer. In September, Bruce Bindner, Em Holland and I climbed Lucifer’s Hammer (III, 5.10a) which starts from Odin’s Wrath, a route we climbed the previous year (AAJ 1997, p. 142). From the flake ledge on top of th...
On July 11, at 1145, Shanna M. Ryan (26) was climbing Backflip (II 5.9), the first pitch on the Bookmark, when she took a 20 foot lead fall. She had been placing protection at the time of the fall, but suddenly slipped and yelled, “Falling.” Whe...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, NO HARD HAT British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. AssiniboineMike Pelletier (20), an experienced mountaineer, and Brian Vezina were descending the north ridge of Mt. Assiniboine unroped on 9 July 1979 at 1100 h...
Dorje Lhakpa, Winter Attempt and Tragedy. Americans Andy Selters, Kurt Schmierer and Greg Collum and one German attempted the unclimbed northwest face/northwest ridge of Dorje Lhakpa (6966 meters) with no climbing Sherpas, no fixed camps and no fi...
Nez Perce, South-southwest Ridge. This ridge lies immediately west of the direct south ridge and leads to the subsummit about a hundred feet west of the true summit of Nez Perce. It was first climbed on August 13 by Leigh and Irene Ortenburger and...
Kamet. In May and June an all-Indian Ladies expedition to Kamet (25,447 feet) was sponsored by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. The team consisted of six members from different parts of India: Thrity Birdy, Chandraprabha Aitwal, Bharati Baner...
Churen Himal. The Academic Alpine Club of Shizuoka had as overall leader Takashi Serizawa and as climbing leader Ryozo Yamamoto. They placed Camp VI at 22,300 feet above the Ghustang Khola. The central peak (24,184 feet) was reached on October 24 ...
Sierra Nevada, California: (2) Half Dome (Yosemite National Park). On 15 September 1948 Paul H. Garinger (30-35) was seen descending the cable on Half Dome. He stopped and appeared to be ill. Seconds later, he disappeared. It is thought that he fa...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPEDWyoming, TetonsOn January 18, 1981, Harry Frishman (38) and Mark Whitten signed out at the Moose Visitor Center for a climb of the Black Ice Gully on the Middle Teton. They hiked to the Lower Saddle and spent the night...