P 6309, North of Chaturangi Glacier. We reached Base Camp at Nandanban at 14,500 feet on September 13, set up Advance Base at Vasuki Tal at 16,000 feet on the 18th and Camp I at 16,500 feet at the base of P 6309 on the 23rd. From Camp I we climbed...

Aguja Guillaumet, new route. Marcin Szczotka and Mariusz Nowak established a new route on the west face of Aguja Guillaumet, to the left of the Padrijo route, just right of Comesaña-Fon-rouge. The route was climbed onsight on February 13, 2004, at...

Snowpatch Spire, West Face, Bugaboos. This is one of two new routes done by parties attempting to find a route of Greenwood’s. The route that Jon Jones and I did in July is to the right of the McCarthy or normal rappel route. It follows a prominen...

Nevado de las Vírgines. Late in May, Bolivian Mario Miranda and Americans Stan Shepard and I probably made the first ascent of the Nevado de las Virgines, part of the Khori Chuma group, the southernmost of the granite peaks. This is a 5500-meter (...

MULTIPLE BEE STINGS California, Yosemite ValleyEarly in October, I was on the second belay ledge of a three pitch climb called “The Caverns” in Yosemite Valley’s Five Open Books area. My friend, Robin Supplee, was following up, cleaning the protec...

FALL ON ROCK, POOR PRACTICE – HOOKED FINGERS THROUGH BOLT RINGColorado, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, Rethinking the EthicsRethinking the Ethics (5.10a) is a 45-foot, four-bolt sport climb located on the Ripple Wall. The climb culminates at a two-bo...

Fisher Towers. Betsi McKittrick, Jimmy Dunn and Peter Banfield climbed with a top rope Little Hoodoo (5.9+), near the Cobra Hoodoo. The Tapeworm on the south face of Echo Tower was climbed by Brian Warshaw and Brad Jarrett (5.8, A3, 6 pitches).Eri...

INADEQUATE CLOTHING—ASSUMPTION REGARDING WEATHERCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanVinante Donato (33), Sergio Valentini (33), and Walter del Fre (33)—all from Italy, set out to climb El Capitan on May 15, 1991.They spent their first night on ...

Chongra Attempt. A four-man British team led by Thomas Middleton unsuccessfully attempted Chongra (6830 meters, 22,376 feet).

Sawtooth Ridge, Orangesmith. Steve Must and I climbed a new ten-pitch route north of Blacksmith Peak, one we dubbed Orangesmith (II-III 5.8). The lower pitches were on the edge of an unmistakable orange wall just below Glacier Lake, then the route...

ROCKFALL, BAD LUCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Banff Area, Cascade FallsTwo male climbers, (26 and 27) arrived from France in February, 1993, for an ice-climbing holiday. On their first day in the area, they chose Cascade Falls, a popular grade- thre...

Sumeru Parbat Attempt, South Ridge, 1989. Geoffrey Degens, Alan King, Richard Sullivan and I made the first ascent of the south ridge of Sumeru Parbat (6331 meters, 20,770 feet) in September 1989 but had to quit 400 feet below the summit because o...

Losar Valley, Pt 6,000m, (first?) ascent and Dawa Kangri, second ascent. A 10-member team from Kolkatta led by Ujjal Ray climbed in Spiti’s Losar valley. They first climbed an unnamed peak of 6,000m. The summit was reached on August 28 by Rajan Ai...

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. A newly revived expedition fund enabled the DMC to support two expeditions in the summer of 1973. One of these climbed the southeast ridge of Mount Hunter in Alaska, while the other spent a very productive three week...

P 6180, Mustang Himal and Source of the Kali Gandaki. Austrian Helmut Burisch and I followed up the Kali Gandaki to where it forks near the Tibetan border. The bigger branch flowed from the northwest from the heart of the Mustang Himal. It obvious...

The Siege of Nanga Parbat, by Paul Bauer. London: RupertHart-Davis, 1956. 211 pages; 23 photographs; 2 maps. Price 25 s. Paul Bauer, famous for his climbs on Kangchenjunga, was also closely connected with Nanga Parbat. He considered it as a climbi...

HAPE–EXACERBATED BY PRE-EXISTING CHEST COLDWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons RouteOn July 11 at 0930, Mount Rainier National Park received a distress call from three climbers high (13,500-foot level) on the Emmons Route. One of the climbers (30) w...

A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. The Rocky Mountain Section is the largest Section in the Club, both in terms of geography covered (Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado and New Mexico) and number of members. Its members are among the most active...

K2, north face attempt, north ridge ascent. After abandoning their dreams of an alpine-style new route on the north face of K2 because of severe weather and poor climbing conditions, Serguey Samoilov and Denis Urubko succeeded on the rarely climbe...

Green River Area, The Warlock, Free Ascent. This area is outside of Canyonlands National Park but approached via the Horsethief Trail road. In October, 1997, Marco Cornacchione and Bret Ruckman climbed the first free ascent of Dude, That’s Not Fun...