FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION,EXCEEDED ABILITIES Colorado, Glenwood SpringsIn July, Wyman Bontrager (36) attempted to lead a 5.8 crack climb and attempted to lie-back an extremely thin crack one meter parallel to main crack system. Vi...
Yulong Shan Attempt. Yulong Shan (Jade Dragon Mountain) is the predominant peak in a compact mountain group in northern Yunnan Province. The peak has an unofficial height of 5600 meters and is readily accessible from the nearby city of Lijiang. In...
Meije, by Georges Sonnier. 118 pages. Paris: André Wahl, 1952.This little piece of fiction, so poetically written, tells the tale of three climbers, a Frenchman, an Englishman, and a German, who set out to make the first ascent of the stupendous n...
Cerro Colorado, Vallecitos, 1992. A rock peak, difficult from any side, Cerro Colorado (4650 meters, 15,256 feet) was finally climbed on September 27, 1992 by Guillermo Cremaschi and Mauricio Fernández. They rated it IV, 60°. It had been previousl...
AVALANCHENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Tuckerman RavineOn March 30, 1990, the Mount Washington area received about 20 cm of new snow, with winds greater than 65 kph from the south. The winds continued through the night.At 0800 the next morning,...
Mustagh Ata North. Horst Schindelbacher, Hans Sauseng, Thomas Hois, Manfred Wydra and I as leader climbed Mustagh Ata North in September. We went up the Chodomak Glacier on skis but where the Yambulak and Chodomak Glaciers meet at about 7000 meter...
Cho Oyu; by Favor of the Gods, by Herbert Tichy. Translated from the German by Basil Creighton. Foreword by Sir John Hunt. London: Methuen & Co., 1957. 196 pages; ills.; maps. Price 25s.In the evergrowing shelves of mountaineering books there ...
Bridger Jack, Indian Creek, Still Alive at 35. The route climbs the east face of the mesa beginning in a shallow chimney on the right side of a prow. A large roof near the top of the landform (bypassed on right) is the best landmark. The first asc...
Phabrang. A four-member Japanese group led by Shiro Sekimoto climbed Phabrang (6172 meters, 20,250 feet) twice by different routes. On August 8, all four climbed the southeast face and on the 13th they all climbed to the summit again via the east ...
Mount Owen, South Chimney. Of the whole southeast face of Mount Owen, directly above the Teton Glacier, there is only one obvious line of weakness, a prominent deep chimney cutting up across the Fryxell route and finally ending in the lower portio...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, DISTRACTION, HOT WEATHER Alberta, Rocky Mountains, CMC ValleyR.B. and B.T. were climbing in CMC valley on July 23,1994. At 1100 the weather was hot and R.B. was having trouble leading the first pitch of a two-pitch ...
Nagpai Gosum, Chinese military encounter. My partner Jeff Lamoureux and I traveled to Kathmandu on September 5 to attempt a new route on 7,350m Nagpai Gosum. We discovered three different names for the mountain: Nagpai Gosum I, Cho Aui, and Pasang...
Tirich Mir. Seven members of the Kyoto section of the Japanese Alpine Club led by Tateshi Sudoh joined with six Pakistanis. They placed Base Camp on the Upper Tirich Glacier and Camps I, II, III and IV at 4800, 5800, 6400, 6800 and 7300 meters on ...
Wolf’s Head, South Face. One of the last unclimbed problems in the Cirque of the Towers region was the Wolf’s Head south face. I had not given it serious consideration until September 7, when Jerry Fuller and I arrived early at its foot wondering ...
Chaukhamba III (6,974m) and IV (6,853m). An Indian expedition (Nehru Institute of Mountaineering) led by Col. Ashok Abbey made the first attempt on these unclimbed peaks. The team consisted of instructors from the Institute. A high point of 6,300m...
Aconcagua Attempt and Ascent. On December 14, Brian Asbury and Glen Frank started up from the normal route's 14,000 foot-basecamp in an attempt to make the second (?) ascent of the Estiban Escaiola route on the west face of Aconcagua. Day one asce...
PULLED OFF A LOOSE BLOCK – FALL ON ROCKWashington, Mount StuartI was climbing the West Ridge of Mount Stuart on September 7 when I pulled off a loose block and took a 60-foot fall. We were roped up,belaying the pitch. We had decent protection in, ...
P 12,266, Mount Hooker Region, Wind River Range. In August my brother Jonathan and I climbed the 1000-foot face of P 12,266, which is just north of Baptiste Lake. We started on steep, loose rock just right of a prominent arête. Halfway up, the roc...
Endicott Mountains. Peak 6800 is one of the most astonishing limestone walls in the Brooks Range. It stands above a beautiful canyon on the upper western fork of the Itkillik River, immediately east of the Cocked Hat Glacier. Approaching from Anak...
Alpine Club of Canada Camp at Elk Lake. Approximately 170 people attended the Elk Lake Camp, held in the French Military Group south of the Kananaskis Lakes, a new area for the Annual Camp. The following peaks were climbed as first ascents: Aosta,...