Masherbrum Southwest Attempt. Masherbrum has two summits. The main northeast summit (7821 meters, 25,660 feet) was climbed by the American expedition of 1960 and has not been climbed a second time. Masherbrum Southwest (7806 meters, 25,610 feet) w...
Le Centenaire des Postes Alpestres Suisses. 4 to. Geneva: “L’Art en Suisse,” 1932. Price Fr. 6.This attractive volume, also issued with English text, has been published by the Department of Posts and Telegraphs of Switzerland. It is well illustrat...
La Esfinge, Here Comes the Sun, New Route. In late May and early June, United Kingdom climbers Brian Bigger and Lucy Regan established Here Comes the Sun (E3 5c A3), considered by many parties to be the best line on this fine face. The 700-meter-h...
Baffin Island, Buchan Gulf, The Bastions, Take the Long Way Home. After a five-day snow-machine approach, from May 2 to 14 German climbers Klaus Fengler, Stefan Glowacz, Holger Heuber, Mariusz Hoffmann, and Robert Jasper established Take the Long ...
Annapurna III. Five Australians led by Jonathan Chester failed to climb a route on the southwest face of Annapurna III to the west ridge. They had four high camps above Base Camp. On October 22 Chester and three others reached the top of the face ...
AAC, New York Section. Much of the Section’s energy and focus in 1996 centered around helping to organize the 94th Annual Meeting of the Club. This was the first time the event was held in Manhattan since the 1985 meeting. As was the case 11 years...
Ascents in Himachal Pradesh. A 15-member Indian team led by Sudhir Mehta climbed Kala Nag (Black Peak) in the Bandar Punch group. Fourteen climbers got to the top (6387 meters, 20,956 feet) on September 16 and 17. Other Indians led by Parimal Chow...
Bhagirathi III, South Face, Les Temps Sauvages, and Other Activity. The expedition members had various goals. Alain Bruzy (leader), Christian Ravier, Frederic Salles, and Alain Miquel wanted to climb the Scottish Route, but altitude problems and d...
Dhaulagiri. The American Dhaulagiri Expedition got permission to climb the east face. The team, Matt and John Culberson, Colin Grissom and I, arrived at Base Camp on September 9. Advance Base was established at the col on September 21. We then got...
Wilson Glacier Headwall. Few unclimbed and untried routes remain on the popular Paradise side of Mount Rainier. Wilson Glacier heads in a steep-walled cirque at about 10,000 feet and then flows into Nis- qually Glacier below 8500 feet. Above the h...
Crowley Buttress, Eagle Eyes. In July 1973, Mark Gaynor, Ken Boche, and I climbed a new route up the west face of Crowley Buttress in the Nelson Lake area. The climb began in a chimney on the right. After 100 feet we exited from the chimney to the...
Vinson Massif, summary. The 2008-09 season was the busiest ever on Vinson (4,892m), with a total of 190 summits. The weather until mid-December was generally very good, but deteriorated thereafter, causing flight delays. However, flexible schedule...
In the spring of 1932 one of the two conquerors of the north face, Toni Schmid, was killed during a Whitsuntide excursion to the mountains. In an attempt to climb the northwest face of the Wiesbachhorn, on May 15th, he slipped while leading in the...
Makalu Attempt. Todd Burleson was accompanied on the northwest ridge of Makalu by Lhakpa Rita and Gopal Tamang. They established Base Camp, Camps I and II at April 1, 4 and 5 at 5300, 6000 and 6900 meters. The plan was to climb the rest of the mou...
LIGHTNING, POOR POSITION Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn June 25, 1988, Randall Vett (21) and Adam Hurst (25) hiked to the top of the Naked Edge intending to rappel down and climb the last two pitches. Bad weather had moved into the area by...
Celestial Peak, Southeast Ridge, Solo. On August 5, I made the second ascent of Celestial Peak by a new route, climbing the southeast ridge in three days. The climb was 26 rope-lengths. Seventeen rappels down the east face brought me back to the g...
Murder on the Matterhorn, by Glyn Carr. 244 pages. New York: E. P. Dutton & Company, Inc., 1953. Price, $2.50.The literature of mountaineering is replete with chronicles, biographies, histories, and statistics of accomplishment among the high ...
Aconcagua Tragedy. American David Battaglia fell dead only six feet from the summit of Aconcagua in mid March. Apparently he was suffering from pulmonary edema and yet pushed on nearly to the summit. This clearly demonstrates the need for anyone s...
FALL ON ICE, POOR POSITION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT,INEXPERIENCE New Hampshire, Meadows Cliffs—RumneyOn January 27, 1990, Mark Jacobson (23) and Zvi Cohen (22) were ice climbing in the Meadows area in Rumney, New Hampshire. They completed one climb, ...
Kang Guru. Our expedition was composed of Domenico Bidese, Imerio Dal Santo, Paolo Ghitti, Fiorenzo Pagiusco and me as leader. On October 4, we established Base Camp at Meta, a deserted village at 3600 meters at the foot of the mountain. We placed...