Mount Jefferson, East Face Direct, Oregon Cascades. An ascent of the east face direct via the Warm Springs Couloir was first made by Price Zimmermann and me on May 31, 1969. Seven hours after abandoning our pick-up in a snow bank, we arrived at th...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. The activity of the Rocky Mountain Section continued to increase in 1989. Quarterly meetings were held in Denver, featuring slide shows by various Section members about their international climbing expeditions. In M...
Peaks above the Borgbjerg Glacier, Southern Staunings Alper. Our Swabian expedition was composed of Winfried Baumgärtner, Ulrich Bayer, Dieter Brodmann, Rudi Laich, Dietrich Schloz, Wolfgang Vögele and me as leader. After an airdrop on July 17, 19...
Kabru Dome. An 11-man Indian expedition of the Parbat Abhijatri Sangha, a mountaineering club in Calcutta, was led by Biswadeb Biswas. Kabru Dome (21,650 feet) was climbed on May 6 by Nemai Bose, Madan Mondal, and the Sherpas Pasang Lama and Karma.
Kazuyoshi Uematsu led a three-man team that made the first ascent of the southeast face of Niuxin Shan (Ox Heart mountain), the biggest rock wall on this outstanding peak above the east bank of the Shuangqiao Valley. In 2002 a five-man Jap...
Mount Russell, Alaska Range. In late May and early June a party consisting of Gene Wescott, Buck Wilson, Bob Goodwin and Jon Gardey made an attempt on Mount Russell (11,670 feet), which is the unclimbed southwestern boundary point of McKinley Park...
Guyito Peak, Sierra Juárez. On May 24, Greg Epperson, Dan Curley and I climbed the south face of the east pillar of this well hidden jewel. The peak lies just east of El Chancero (A.A.J., 1978, p. 556) and is comprised of excellent granodiorite. T...
Moose’s Tooth, Shaken Not Stirred, Various Ascents. In May, the Shaken Not Stirred route on the south face of the Moose’s Tooth received its second, third, and fourth ascents over the course of three days. Kelly Cordes and Scott DeCapio, Topher an...
Lotus Flower Tower. On July 2 Mark Wagner, Doug Feil, Mark Hendrix and I flew to Glacier Lake and soon were established in Tombstone Meadows. Poor weather kept us on the ground for several days. Finally a half-clearing allowed Hendrix and me an un...
West Bell Tower. These towers of excellent granite are three miles up Bells Canyon near Salt Lake City. On September 29, Larry Evans, Dick Ream* and Fred Beckey started a route on the West Bell Tower. They climbed the first two leads, mostly direc...
LOSS OF CONTROL, VOLUNTARY GLISSADEWyoming, TetonsOn July 13, Gary Price (22), Mark Hasson, Barry Thomas, and Ethan Rathburn were climbing the East Couloir route on Disappointment Peak. After reaching the summit, the party began its descent by the...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Table Rock Mountain, Helmet ButtressTwo climbers a male, B. D. (26) and female, JD (20s) were attempting Helmet Buttress (5.6) on September 2. J. D. was belaying B. D. on the first pitc...
K2, North Ridge Attempt. On June 11, Heinz Wohlweind, Hans Stegmeier, Reinhard Vlasich, Elisabeth Vlasich, Peter Kowalzik (leader) and I met in Beijing to climb the north ridge of K2 (on an IMC commercial expedition from Germany — Ed.). On June 14...
Aguja Nevada, Cordillera Blanca. An Italian expedition, sponsored by the Monza section of the Club Alpino Italiano, was led by Giancarlo Frigieri and composed of Gianni Arcari, Ferdinando Nusdeo, Carlo Casati, Angelo Pizzoccolo and Vasco Taldo. Ba...
Mount McKinley, South Face, New Route. From May 13 to 23 we climbed a new route on the south face of Mount McKinley to the right of the Cassin Ridge. Ján Špakula, František Adamík and Ervin Velic helped Tono Križo, František Korl and me from Base ...
Lampak and P 20,751. A 12-man expedition of the Rajputana Rifles and the Rajputana Regiment consisted of four officers and eight jawans. It was led by Colonel Prem Lal Kukrety. On September 20 they reached the summit of virgin P 20,751 at nine A.M...
Yosemite Point, Chouinard Route, variation. Sheldon Smith and Jim Erickson on August 12, climbed an F9 variant of the difficult Chouinard Route. They began their climb left of the Chouinard route on the left side of the prominent 150-foot pillar o...
Mt. Moroni, The Road to Cumorah. In April, Chris Rowins, Dave Jones, and I climbed a new nine-pitch route on Mt. Moroni. The Road to Cumorah (IV 5.11 Cl) begins at the far east end of the of the southwest face. We started in a short, clean, left-c...
HAPE, HACE, CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 1813 on May 27, Joshua Wax (28), a solo climber experiencing symptoms of high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) and high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), was evacuated by helicopter fr...
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. This is a new Section of members living in Maryland, portions of North Carolina and Pennsylvania, Virginia, West Virginia and the District of Columbia. In October 1976 at an informal meeting in Washington D.C. members a...