FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Armada MountainOn August 7, 1988, a party of 12 BCMC members flew to base camp at 1900 meters on the south side of Armada Mountain above Doran Creek in the Quee...
SCOTT FISCHER1956-1996AAC member Scott Fischer was among the eight climbers who died on Mount Everest on May 10, 1996. Scott, two other guides, Lobsang Sherpa, and all eight clients reached the summit on his commercial expedition. While everyone e...
A. P. Coleman, Professor Emeritus of Geology, University of Toronto, and Honorary Member of the American Alpine Club, was awarded the 1936 Penrose medal of the Geological Society of America at the society’s convention in Cincinnati.
Mount Adams, East Face of the North Ridge. Brian Buck and I made this Grade III ice climb on May 23 on spectacular Mount Adams (12,276 feet), second highest in Washington. This new route climbs the 1300-foot face which rises from Lava Glacier belo...
Mount Rainier, Success Finger. This new route was climbed on July 17 by Dick Wahlstrom and George Senner, who started from the Tahoma Creek campground at 3000 feet and followed the trail to Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground and Pyramid Park. The Pyram...
FALL ON ROCK – PROTECTION PULLEDAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount IndefatigableOn July 1, KT and MH were climbing the rock route Joy (5.5, 10 pitches) on Mount Indefatigable. KT was leading and built an anchor and was ready to belay MH. KT tested...
K2 Winter Attempt, 1988. A winter ascent led by Pole Andrzej Zawada with members from Poland, Britain and Canada failed at 7300 meters, Camp III. Maciej Berbeka made the first winter ascent of Broad Peak on March 6, 1988.
Central Argentina. Members of the Club Andinista Mendoza made the following first ascents: in the Cordón de las Delicias, the Cerro San Jorge (17,257 feet), January 27, 1957 by Daniel Bari, Ricardo Ciancio, Leopoldo Fanelli, Carlos Ferrero, Fabio ...
Brakk Zang, South Face, Ascents. It was reported that a Korean expedition was responsible for two new lines on the south face of Brakk Zang (a.k.a Sotulpa Peak, 4800m). Jang Hyung- Won, Lim Sung-Muk and Shin Moon-He established a route over the co...
Everest Attempt and Rescue of Andrzej Marciniak. We were Rob Hall, Apa Sherpa, Pincho Norbu Sherpa and I. We established Base Camp on March 17 and then spent 17 days along with McConnell’s team opening the Khumbu Icefall before the arrival of the ...
Tumbling Glacier, Kootenay Park. On September 6 Greg Spohr and I pitched a tent on the meadows just south of the glacier. To avoid crevasses, the next morning we skirted around the south side of the glacier, then traversed underneath the rock wall...
Manaslu, Post-Monsoon Northeast Face Ascent and Attempts. An international party of 15 Swiss, an Austrian, an Italian and an American was headed by Bruno Jelk. On October 25, Swiss Mauro Ferrari and Horst Brantschen reached the summit, having clim...
FALLING ROCK-HANDHOLD PULLED OFF, FALL ON ROCK, HASTE, NO HARD HATWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Base of Irene's AreteJune 24. Leading on 5.3 terrain. Fifty feet of rope out. Number 3 Camalot at my knee. Trying to go fast. Pulled on a hold. I...
Yale Logan Expedition. A party of six members, Dudley W. Bolyard, Howell Martyn, John Bailar, and George Yutema of the Yale Mountaineering Club and Harry Nance of the University of Colorado went last summer into the Logan Mountains, an area of gra...
Vinson Massif, New Route, and Mount Craddock, 1992. A full article by Jay Smith on an expedition to Antarctica appears earlier in this Journal. It describes the ascent of Vinson Massif via the south face and the first ascent of Mount Craddock.
FALL ON SNOW - UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTNew Hampshire, Tuckerman Ravine, Left gullyOn March 14, a woman fell approximately 1,200 feet from near the top of Left Gully in Tuckerman Ravine. She was unable to self-arrest and quickly lost her ice ax, as sh...
Pure and Perpetual Snow: Two climbs in the Andes of Peru. David Mazel. The Free Solo Press, Alamosa, Colorado, 1987. 136 pages, 22 black-and-white photographs, 1 illustration, bibliography. $10.95 (paper).I enjoyed Mazel’s small but personable boo...
Eagle Beaks, East Face of North Peak, Thunder Road. In May Conrad Van Bruggen, Mark Blanchard and I climbed this enjoyable, seven-pitch route which started at a small pine 100 feet uphill to the right (north) from the low point of the face. Three ...
FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, NutcrackerOn September 20, 1992, Margaret Cashman was leading the sixth pitch of the Nutcracker route when she took a ten foot leader fall. As a result of the fall she impacted both of her heels causing pos...
Shifkitin Sar, Shimshal Valley. In 1986, an Irish expedition reconnoitered the Malanguti Glacier area in the Shimshal valley and unsuccessfully attempted virgin Shifkitin Sar (c. 5800 meters, 19,029 feet). On September 9, 1989, Netherlanders estab...