Nevado Kayesh, Italian Route variation attempt. In June Guillermo Mejia and I set up a tent on the glacier, a half-hour from the bergschrund of Kayesh (5721m). We started up the German line, then followed the fixed Italian ropes (1973) until they ...
Vallunaraju, First Ascent of North Ridge. Beryl Howarth, Vicki Thompson, my wife Lucille and I set out on July 5 from camp in the Llaca valley and climbed along the base of the cliffs as they curved upwards, then broke out onto open moraine and ev...
Mt. Rainier climbers who break rules are fined. During a single week in August 1949, seven Oregon and Washington men were fined for attempting to scale Mt. Rainier without complying with all park regulations. One party, for example, was warned not...
FALL ON ROCKColorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Scenic JourneyOn May 17, Craig Smith (21) was leading the eighth pitch of the 13-pitch climb Scenic Journey (5.10+), when he wedged his hand into a crack in the rock face to gain a hold. The move...
Manaslu. A Yugoslavian expedition led by the late Aleš Kunaver had hoped to ascend the unclimbed south ridge of Manaslu, but instead they made the fourth ascent of the south face, first climbed by the Tiroleans in 1972. They established Base Camp ...
Forbidden Peak, Northwest Face. This very aesthetic alpine route combines a good short ice climb on the west face of the north ridge with the very enjoyable rock climbing of the upper north-ridge route. The ice face is composed of two sections div...
Third Pillar, East Edge of Mount Dana Plateau, Tuolumne, 1990. In September, 1988, Miguel Carmona and Eric Klosterman climbed the first three pitches of this line on the pillar, which is drawn on page 47 of Reid and Falkenstein’s Rock Climbs of Tu...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING SOLO, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCE British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount WardleOn June 23, 1989, Ben (21) and his brother Uli (23) decided to make an attempt to climb Mount Wardle via the East Face. After completing a very d...
STRANDED – YOGI-PHOBIA, UNFAMILIAR WITH EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite, Half DomeJanet (32) spent May 9 hanging out at the base of Half Dome while her friends made an ascent of the Regular NW Face route. They had camped there the night before and h...
Shivling. A British Royal Air Force expedition made the second ascent of the southeast ridge of Shivling. The expedition, of which I was the leader, 22 strong and both climbers and trekkers, spent four weeks based on the Gangotri Glacier. The summ...
Koh-i-Parshui Attempt. On our approach to the central Hindu Kush this year, our roadhead was Barikot, giving us two extra days march per traverse up and down. The local languages are baffling even to our interpreter; Barikot is Pashtu, but higher ...
Bandarpunch II West and Kala Nag. The Ruinsara Youth Expedition was organized to train young climbers between the ages of 16 and 21 and expose them to high-altitude climbing. From the roadhead at Sankri we trekked through Dapsa and up the Ruinsara...
Hunter, Moonflower Buttress. Bill Belcourt and I made the fourth ascent to the summit of Mug Stumps’ Moonflower Buttress route on Mount Hunter. Starting on June 1, we spent five days on the ascent and two on the descent of the west ridge, all in g...
HAFE and HACE, ASCENDING TOO FASTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAfter a rapid ascent to 14,200 foot camp on the West Buttress, a member of the “Polish Female Denali 2010” expedition, Zygmunt Berdychowski (49), began experiencing signs and sy...
Gasherbrum II Ascent and Tragedy. The expedition in which I took part was a commercial one of 14 members organized by Frenchman Bernard Muller and his wife, Laurence de la Ferrière. We left Skardu on May 19 and got to Base Camp on May 31 at 5150 m...
Ogre III, first ascent. Thomas Huber, Urs Stöcker, and Iwan Wolf made the first ascent of Ogre III, the ca 6800m West Summit of Ogre II (6960m), now considered a distinct top. The Swiss-German team first inspected the approach on June 13, finding ...
Thor Peak, South Face, Odin’s Wrath. Odin’s Wrath (III-IV 5.10d) ascends a line between Satan’s Delight and Truncated Buttress on Thor Peak. The line can be very vaguely seen in the right margin of the photo on page 47 of R.J. Secor’s High Sierra ...
Our Everest Adventure, by Sir John Hunt. 128 pages, including 103 large photographs, numerous small photos, and 2 maps. English edition: Leicester, Brockhampton Press, 1954. Price, 12/6. American edition: New York, E. P. Dutton & Co., 1954. Pr...
Kanjeralwa, Kanjiroba Himal. Our expedition made the first ascent of Kanjeralwa (21,857 feet), which lies southeast of the highest peak in the Kanjiroba. Camps on the west side were established as follows: Base Camp at 12,150 feet on April 4, I at...
Pin Parbat. Six of the 11-member team from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police climbed this virgin peak (6350 meters, 20,833 feet), which lies near Matri, on August 7. The summiters were S.P.Verma, Chhering Lobzong, Chhota Singh, Harnam Singh, Khom Sin...