Everest Attempt and Rescue of Andrzej Marciniak. We were Rob Hall, Apa Sherpa, Pincho Norbu Sherpa and I. We established Base Camp on March 17 and then spent 17 days along with McConnell’s team opening the Khumbu Icefall before the arrival of the ...
Tumbling Glacier, Kootenay Park. On September 6 Greg Spohr and I pitched a tent on the meadows just south of the glacier. To avoid crevasses, the next morning we skirted around the south side of the glacier, then traversed underneath the rock wall...
Manaslu, Post-Monsoon Northeast Face Ascent and Attempts. An international party of 15 Swiss, an Austrian, an Italian and an American was headed by Bruno Jelk. On October 25, Swiss Mauro Ferrari and Horst Brantschen reached the summit, having clim...
FALLING ROCK-HANDHOLD PULLED OFF, FALL ON ROCK, HASTE, NO HARD HATWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Base of Irene's AreteJune 24. Leading on 5.3 terrain. Fifty feet of rope out. Number 3 Camalot at my knee. Trying to go fast. Pulled on a hold. I...
Yale Logan Expedition. A party of six members, Dudley W. Bolyard, Howell Martyn, John Bailar, and George Yutema of the Yale Mountaineering Club and Harry Nance of the University of Colorado went last summer into the Logan Mountains, an area of gra...
Vinson Massif, New Route, and Mount Craddock, 1992. A full article by Jay Smith on an expedition to Antarctica appears earlier in this Journal. It describes the ascent of Vinson Massif via the south face and the first ascent of Mount Craddock.
FALL ON SNOW - UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTNew Hampshire, Tuckerman Ravine, Left gullyOn March 14, a woman fell approximately 1,200 feet from near the top of Left Gully in Tuckerman Ravine. She was unable to self-arrest and quickly lost her ice ax, as sh...
Pure and Perpetual Snow: Two climbs in the Andes of Peru. David Mazel. The Free Solo Press, Alamosa, Colorado, 1987. 136 pages, 22 black-and-white photographs, 1 illustration, bibliography. $10.95 (paper).I enjoyed Mazel’s small but personable boo...
Eagle Beaks, East Face of North Peak, Thunder Road. In May Conrad Van Bruggen, Mark Blanchard and I climbed this enjoyable, seven-pitch route which started at a small pine 100 feet uphill to the right (north) from the low point of the face. Three ...
FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, NutcrackerOn September 20, 1992, Margaret Cashman was leading the sixth pitch of the Nutcracker route when she took a ten foot leader fall. As a result of the fall she impacted both of her heels causing pos...
Shifkitin Sar, Shimshal Valley. In 1986, an Irish expedition reconnoitered the Malanguti Glacier area in the Shimshal valley and unsuccessfully attempted virgin Shifkitin Sar (c. 5800 meters, 19,029 feet). On September 9, 1989, Netherlanders estab...
Washington, Olympic Mountains (2)—On June 24, 1956 a party of eleven Mountaineers were descending the last steep slope of Mt. Constance. Greta Dahnke (40) attempted a glissade, fell, and failed to recover. Betty Parker attempted to arrest her fall...
JAMES BALDWIN1938 - 1964It was with shock and disbelief that Jim’s many friends learned of his death this spring. He was killed while rappelling in the dark on the east face of Washington Column in Yosemite Valley. No one will ever know exactly wh...
Mt. Everest, north face snowboarding attempt. Marc (“Marco”) Siffredi, the well known 23-year-old French professional snowboarder from Chamonix, came to Mt. Everest this autumn to snowboard down two couloirs on the mountain's north side. This was ...
Castle Peak, Wrangell Mountains. Castle Peak is very deserving of its name, for it is a giant monolith whose rock walls rise almost straight up 3500 feet from the glacier below its southern and eastern exposures and a good 2000 feet on the west. I...
FALLING ROCK—Alberta, Banff, Mt. Rundle. Geoffrey Taylor (16) and Steve Ord (16) were climbing Mt. Rundle on August 4 by the usual easy route. They became separated, Ord being in front, and maintained contact by voice. Taylor stopped calling about...
Chimborazo. On March 3 David P. Johnston and Peter H. Robinson climbed all the way from the refuge at 16,000 feet over "Punta Veintemil” and across the deep soft snow to "Punta Whymper” (20,563 feet), the farthest point from the center of the eart...
Tragédies Alpestres, by Charles Gos. 8 vo., illustrated. Paris: V. Attinger, 1939.The author is the literary director of the “Montagne” series issued by the firm of Attinger in Paris and Neuchatel. Gos is himself an honorary member of the Alpine C...
Diran Tragedy. The leader Francesc Xavier Socias and José Marmol of a 9-man expedition from Mallorca, Spain were killed in an accident on Diran. Details are not available at this time.
Nomads of the North. Text by Elly Jannes; pictures by Anna Riw- kin-Brick. Translated by William Cameron and Karin Wander. 82 pages of photographic illustrations, each with an explanatory paragraph of text, and an introduction. Stockholm: Kooperat...