A Map of the Northern Cordillera Blanca, Peru Survey methods are described by Holdsworth: Between July 26 and 28, 1968, observations were made from the area near the Corporación Peruana del Santa camp at Laguna Safuna Baja. The survey involved o...
Muztagh Tower, northeast face. At 7,284m, Muztagh Tower is a prominent landmark on the way to most of the 8,000ers in Pakistan, yet there have not been many ascents, and there has never been an alpine-style ascent. Our goal was an alpine-style asc...
Despite some effects from the much-publicized, devastating monsoon rain just south in Pakistan, in July and August Neil Gwynne and I, both from Scotland, were able to make first ascents in the Little and Big Pamir at the eastern end of the Wakhan ...
Rock Peaks of the Siguniang RegionNew routes, anyone?Photographs by Tamotsu Nakamura, Japanese Alpine Club“Mt. Siguniang, the highest peak of the Qionglai mountains, has become so famous and popular within China itself that the southern side of th...
Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, scheduled 223 climbs for the regular summer program. Of these, 180 were successful in meeting their purpose, the largest number ever experienced in a year. Good weather resulted in fewer cancellations than...
The First American Ascent of Mont BlancTHE HOWARD MANUSCRIPTSJ. Monroe ThoringtonDR. JEREMIAH VAN RENSSELAER and his friend, William Howard, received their degrees in medicine in 1817 from the University of New York and the University of Maryland,...
“The World’s Worst Weather”Alan A. Smith*MOUNT WASHINGTON, in New Hampshire, is said by many to have “the worst weather in the world.” The point is arguable—Fitz Roy in Argentina and Mount McKinley come to mind—but it is true that clouds, high win...
1951-20082009GeographicalNumber ofTotalPersonsNumber ofTotalPersonsDistrictsAccidentsDeathsInvolvedAccidentsDeathsInvolvedCANADA*Alberta5201421033British Columbia317119641Yukon Territory372877New Brunswick100Ontario37967Quebec311063East Arctic8221...
Pt. 5,650m, Gateway Ridge, not to summit; Jangpar Glacier, reconnaissance. Hanging to the east of the greater Miyar Valley, the Chhudong (a.k.a. Tawa) Valley is predominantly flat, save for a slabby cliff situated just before the Chhudong Glacier....
Number ofTotalAccidents ReportedPersons InvolvedInjuredKilledUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164019119...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. Ours was the first official expedition from what was East Germany to attempt an 8000-meter peak. We attempted to make the third ascent of the Buhl route on the Rakhiot side of Nanga Parbat. Base Camp was established on May 19...
Mount Hunter, Attempt on South Face. After our arrival in Talkeetna, the weather continued poor until June 20 when clearing enabled Don Sheldon to fly Dean Rau, Duane Soper, Paul Harrison and me to the south side of Mount Hunter. An airdrop had be...
Hajji Brakk & K7Alone among the granite spires of the Charakusa Vallley, Pakistan.Steve House“Malo levo,” Marko requested, and I obliged. With a step I triggered the sweet spot, and we watched in awe as a slab avalanche rumbled down our up-tra...
Boulder Climbs South. Richard Rossiter. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1989. 411 pages, numerous maps, diagrams and black and white illustrations. $25.00.Two new guidebooks to Boulder, Colorado by Richard Rossiter have recorded the new route bonanza ca...
Himalaje-Karakorum, by Tom Piaty, ed. Warsaw, Poland, Wiedza Powszechna, 1974. 472 pages of text, with 376 pictures. Hardbound. 140 zlotys ($7.60).I am quick to declare that I know no Polish, but the language is not an obstacle to understanding an...
Peak 41, south summit (6,575m), west spur, attempt. On September 30 Andy Houseman and I flew to Lukla. Four days later we established base camp in a hidden valley below Peak 41 (6,648m), 45 minutes walk from the small village of Khare in the Hinku...
Climbing Rope Tests. This investigation originated from my personal curiosity regarding the advantages of the various types of ropes available and the special attributes of each. For instance, was there a rope in existence suitable for climbing wh...
Cloudveil Dome, South Face. This prominent face has yielded three new routes. The first, Cut Loose, was climbed on August 2, 1977 by Yvon Chouinard and Rick Black on the right portion of the face. The start was about 30 feet to the right (east) of...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF PITON AND NUT Colorado, Mt. RoyalOn Saturday, June 23, the Summit County Rescue Group (SCRG) and the Frisco Fire Department spent a long afternoon rescuing Bob French (47) from a rock face near Frisco.French, a Breckenridg...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT–INADEQUATECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 6, David Craig (32) first met and climbed with a Japanese climber named Tomo (last name unknown). Tomo was experienced and competent. On Sunday they climbed at t...