P 11,091, P 10,300 and P 9810, Eldridge Glacier. Our expedition was composed of mountain guides: Bruno Musi, Giorgio Passino, Giuseppe Cheney, Eliseo Cheney, Henry Truchet and me as leader. We set up Base Camp on May 29 on the north fork of the El...
Dorje Lhakpa, West Ridge, Attempt. It was our objective to climb Dorje Lhakpa (6966 m) by the west ridge. Ours was the first British attempt. We approached from the Jugalrnal side in the south. Dorje Lhakpa can only be climbed as a joint Nepalese ...
Annapurna Tragedy. A French expedition led by Jean-Paul Vion attempted the unclimbed northwest buttress of Annapurna. On September 26 André Durieux and Roland Girod-Roux reached 24,275 feet, above Camp IV at 23,450 feet. The expedition was abandon...
Aconcagua: a Climbing Guide. R.J. Secor. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1994. 144 pages, 48 black-and-white photographs, 12 line drawings and sketch maps. Paper. $15.95.Although several Aconcagua guidebooks have been published in Spain and Argentina, ...
El Toro, West Side. On September 2, 1981, at the end of the southern winter, twelve Santiago climbers including two women, under the direction of Claudio Lucero, made the first ascent in modem times of the west side of Cerro El Toro (6386 meters, ...
Schurovkovo Glacier, Various Ascents. It was reported that Hugh Nicholson, Peter Crampton, Alison Douglass, Peter Garlick and Paul Hersey (NZ) traveled to the Schurovkovo Glacier* in Kyrgyzstan in July and August. During their stay they made ascen...
AVALANCHEWashington, Mount RainierAbout 2130 on June 6, 1982, John Davis (41) reported to Ranger Garry Olson at Paradise that he and two other climbers had been involved in a climbing accident on the Fuhrer Finger. Davis’ rope team had attempted t...
Mustagh Ata. After three members of the Japanese Kongur expedition, Teranishi, Shigi and Matsumi, later lost on Kongur, had made a ski ascent of Mustagh Ata as an acclimatization climb in early June, another Japanese expedition made the third ski ...
Dragontail Peak, Northeast Buttress, Stuart Range. During a stormy July weekend, Wayne Wallace and I climbed the northeast buttress of Dragontail Peak. After approaching via Cold Chuck Lake, we proceeded on white granite up the toe of the northeas...
Shri Kailas. Bharat S. Manghre and Aniket D. Bal attempted to climb Shri Kailas on May 31 but took a bad route. On June 1 a second attempt on the southeast ridge failed 300 feet from the top. A third solo climb by Manghre on the southwest face on ...
Colorado, Front Range, Indian Peaks, Niwot Ridge. On 26 January Darvel T. Lloyd (26), and his brother Darryl were returning to a research station on Niwot Ridge from a research site on Isabelle Glacier. They had headed straight up the ridge via th...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Armada MountainOn August 7, 1988, a party of 12 BCMC members flew to base camp at 1900 meters on the south side of Armada Mountain above Doran Creek in the Quee...
SCOTT FISCHER1956-1996AAC member Scott Fischer was among the eight climbers who died on Mount Everest on May 10, 1996. Scott, two other guides, Lobsang Sherpa, and all eight clients reached the summit on his commercial expedition. While everyone e...
A. P. Coleman, Professor Emeritus of Geology, University of Toronto, and Honorary Member of the American Alpine Club, was awarded the 1936 Penrose medal of the Geological Society of America at the society’s convention in Cincinnati.
Mount Adams, East Face of the North Ridge. Brian Buck and I made this Grade III ice climb on May 23 on spectacular Mount Adams (12,276 feet), second highest in Washington. This new route climbs the 1300-foot face which rises from Lava Glacier belo...
Mount Rainier, Success Finger. This new route was climbed on July 17 by Dick Wahlstrom and George Senner, who started from the Tahoma Creek campground at 3000 feet and followed the trail to Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground and Pyramid Park. The Pyram...
FALL ON ROCK – PROTECTION PULLEDAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount IndefatigableOn July 1, KT and MH were climbing the rock route Joy (5.5, 10 pitches) on Mount Indefatigable. KT was leading and built an anchor and was ready to belay MH. KT tested...
K2 Winter Attempt, 1988. A winter ascent led by Pole Andrzej Zawada with members from Poland, Britain and Canada failed at 7300 meters, Camp III. Maciej Berbeka made the first winter ascent of Broad Peak on March 6, 1988.
Central Argentina. Members of the Club Andinista Mendoza made the following first ascents: in the Cordón de las Delicias, the Cerro San Jorge (17,257 feet), January 27, 1957 by Daniel Bari, Ricardo Ciancio, Leopoldo Fanelli, Carlos Ferrero, Fabio ...
Brakk Zang, South Face, Ascents. It was reported that a Korean expedition was responsible for two new lines on the south face of Brakk Zang (a.k.a Sotulpa Peak, 4800m). Jang Hyung- Won, Lim Sung-Muk and Shin Moon-He established a route over the co...