Fourteen Pacific Coast Fourteen-ThousandersDon M. WoodsWHEN I stood on the summit of Mt. Shasta, my first 14,000-ft. peak, I resolved that sometime I would climb the other 13 peaks of the Pacific Coast above this challenging height. This was June...
Nilkanth (6596 m), attempts: A seven member Korean expedition led by Ja Eok Gook originally hoped to attempt Dunagiri, which is on the outer walls of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. In August they proceeded with full clearance toward this peak but once ...
A faint reminder of words written a couple days earlier crept across my subconscious as our only fuel canister sputtered empty on Great Trango Tower. Josh Wharton and I were over halfway up—the easy half—the 7,400-vertical-foot southwest ridge wit...
A joint Czech-Slovak expedition visited the Baltoro from July 26 to August 31. The team comprised eight climbers from Slovakia: Gabo Cmárik, Andrej Kolárik, Igor Koller, Jozef Kopold, Pavol Pekarcík, Juraj Podebraský, Erik Rabatin, and I. There we...
Escudo East Face Attempt, Paine Group. A German Alpine Club (DAV) expedition of eight men and two women led by Günther Manz attempted to climb a line on the right side of the east face of the Escudo (Shield) to the left of the route climbed by Gor...
Arwa Tower, Spire, and CrestWhen the weather gods smiled: two perfect weeks in the Indian Garhwal with the French High Mountain Military Group.By Antoine de ChoudensLast spring, eight of us from the French High Mountain Military Group (GMHM), insp...
Antarctic ImpressionsIn Four EpisodesWilliam SiriErebus rose from the sea in undulating folds of ice but still preserved its figure as a near-perfect volcanic cone. As if to prove its distinction as the only active volcano in Antarctica, a thin co...
Avalanche, a novel by Kay Boyle. 8vo., 209 pages. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1944. Price $2.50.Avalanche has been widely heralded as a story of the French underground in the mountains of the Haute Savoie, by a writer who knows that region intim...
Canada, Various Ice Ascents. In Bridge River, B.C., Kevin Normoyle and Quang-Taun Luong put up The Theft (V WI6R), an 800-foot route climbed in six pitches (5+R, 5R, 4, 5+, 6, 5). In Banff, Dave Thompson and Karen McNeil established Deadeye Dick (...
Urkinmang, Jugal Himal. An expedition of five Japanese and three Sherpas made a new route and fifth ascent of Urkinmang (6151 meters, 20,180 feet) climbing the north face to the north ridge. They pitched one high camp at 5400 meters and fixed 2000...
Tenzing Norgay and the Sherpas of Everest. Tashi Tenzing, with Judy Tenzing. Forewords by Sir Edmund Hillary and His Holiness The Dalai Lama. Camden, Maine: Ragged Mountain-McGraw-Hill, 2001.294 pages, more than 100 black-and-white photos. $26.00....
One Step in the Clouds: An Omnibus of Mountaineering Novels and Short Stories. Compiled by Audrey Salkeld and Rosie Smith. Diadem, London. £16.95; Sierra Club, San Francisco, 1990. 1056 pages. $25.00.The compilers of this enormous volume seek to r...
From July 5 to August 15, on the first of my two Year of the Ox expeditions, I visited Xinjiang. Again I embarked on the ultimate challenges of a solo expedition, to get back to a relationship with myself that I can only find while going alo...
The past year and a half has marked an exciting period of growth for the Himalayan Cataract Project and has furthered our mission of eliminating preventable and treatable blindness in mountainous Asia. We are making the transition from being an or...
Mount Battle Solo. I climbed Mount Battle (4420 feet) solo to photograph the peaks and glaciers around the Pangnirtung Pass. It is surrounded by the Rundle Glacier on the east, the Highway Glacier on the north and the Turner Glacier on the west. T...
Half Dome, The Long Walk. In the fall of 1999, Bryan Law and I fixed two new pitches on the northwest face of Half Dome but were unable to continue due to various delays and other obligations. I returned to the project alone in August. The fixed l...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, PARTY SEPARATEDCalifornia, Palisade GlacierJohn Norton (16), Marta Rauch (16) and Greg Lewis (25) ascended the arete to the right of Clyde’s Couloir and were traversing left across the couloir to the snowfield on No...
Yukon Territory, Mt. Logan. In early August, Albert W. Nickerson (22) was a member of a party climbing on the east ridge of Mt. Logan. His footwear consisted of Gerry insulated overboots over heavy leather climbing boots. These boots were a bit sh...
International Alpine Solidarity Award. AAC Member Daryl Miller was presented with the Silver Plaque of the International Alpine Solidarity Award by the guides of Pinzolo, Italy. This award honored Miller for rescues performed during his work as a ...
FALL ON ICE, INATTENTIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Professor FallsOn March 20, after instructing an ice climbing session on this popular Grade 4 ice climb, J.M. tripped on easy terrain while descending to the second rappel. He fell over a six m...