Aconcagua, South Face. Sharon Wood and I have just returned from what strikes us as an extraordinary experience. We climbed the French route on the south face of Aconcagua from December 17 to 22. All we can say is that Robert Paragot, who led the ...
Makalu Attempt. Our 4-man attempt on the regular route on Makalu failed. On May 20 Chris Dube and John Bouchard left; Chris had early signs of cerebral edema. Rick Wilcox and I started up on a third assault, but he got severe diarrhea and vomiting...
Pamirs, 1968. There was a great deal of climbing that went on in the U.S.S.R. in 1968. Most remarkable were two ascents in the Pamirs. The 8000-foot southwest wall of Pik Kommunisma (24,590 feet), highest in the country, was climbed for the first ...
Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumatorsoq, Stupid White Man. On July 20 Jørgen Becher, Steffen Laetsch, and I completed an ascent of Stupid White Man on the south-southwest face of the Left Pillar of Nalumatorsoq. The same team made an attempt on this line du...
El Obispo, El Altar. In early January, my wife Julie and I made the beautiful two-day approach to the volcano, E1 Altar. We intended to repeat the Italian route on the north face of E1 Obispo. (5340 meters, 17,520 feet), the highest of the nine su...
Kala Nag. In June an Indian group from the Doon School climbed Kala Nag. The summit was reached by H. Nautiyal, Kalu Singh, S. Gopal, J.S. Bindra, A. Mahey and leader S.C. Biala.
Fitz Roy, Linea de Eleganza (Elegant Line). True alpinism isn’t solely the discovery of new walls, of new lines, of difficulties to overcome, but more than anything it involves the willingness to have open eyes and an open mind in order to reach t...
Mount Jacobsen, East Face of East Peak. On the theory that a six- day trip to the Ape Lake area in the Bella Coola region is better than not going at all, Mickey Schurr and I decided to gamble on a quick strike at what seemed one of the best alpin...
Llullaillaco. On September 18-21, Rodrigo Jordán, Juan Sebastián Montes, Claudio Lucero, Cristián García-Huidobro, Christian Buracchio and I climbed one of the summits of Llullaillaco (6723 meters, 22,058 feet), where we found pieces of wood which...
Shahan Dok, Central Hindu Raj. Last year we made an unsuccessful attempt on this mountain of which we made the first ascent this year. We set up Base Camp on July 2 at 3800 meters. We again followed the same route along the east ridge from Shahan ...
Mount Chamberlain, North Face, Hot Damn Variation. In August, 1995, Bruce Bindner and I free climbed the North Face route (V, 5.10d) on Mount Chamberlain (Harrington-Fiddler, 1983) via a major variation. (A topo of the original route can be found ...
Gangotri III. A nine-member Japanese expedition led by Shizuo Miyake climbed Gangotri III by the north ridge. Makiyo Nishimura, Takashi Kawa- mura, Masahiro Miyamoto and porter Laxman Singh Rana reached the summit on October 3.
Saipal Attempt. Our members were Frank Evans, Matthew Heffer, John Holland, Caroline Purkhardt, Julia Wood and I as leader. We had hoped to climb Saipal (7031 meters, 23,068 feet) by a new route, approaching from Surkhet in 18 days up the Karnali ...
Early American Ascents in the Andes, 1854-1950Evelio EchevarriaTHERE SEEMS TO exist no complete survey of American mountain ascents abroad. This short contribution purports to chronicle early American ascents that took place in the Andes, from 185...
The Mazamas. We Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, sat down to our 97th Annual Banquet in November at the Lloyd Center Red Lion Hotel, an event attended by about 400 of our 2,700 members.Although we are a local outdoor club, we nevertheless have members...
The Stonemasters: California Rock Climbers In the Seventies. Dean Fidelman, John Long, and others. T. Adler Books/ Stonemaster Press, 2009. Many photographs. 196 pages. Hardcover. $60.00.“We made this book square, like a block of granite,” said De...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The continued high level of member involvement made 1992 an important year for the Sierra Nevada Section. Section members have made ascents of mountains from South American traditional summits, i.e. Aconcagua, to new...
For some years Kazuya Hiraide and I tried to visit Gurla Mandhata. We knew about ascents from the northwest, facing the holy mountain of Kailash, but never found any information about the south side. We also never received replies from the CTMA to...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, CLIMBING ALONE,NO HARD HATWyoming, Wind River Canyon, Dinwoody PassOn September 1, Steve Fleming (45) was unable to self-arrest while descending from Dinwoody Pass. In a report he submitted, he stated that the s...
Pts. 6,473m (“Free Tibet”) and 6,063m (“Bochánek”), possible first ascents. Zdenek Cervenka, Cestmír Lukeš, and Irene Oehninger from the Czech Republic climbed two peaks close to the end of the long chain of mountains that runs northwest from Xixa...