Rock Climbers in Action in Snowdonia, by John Cleare and Tony Smythe. London: Secker and Warburg, 1966. 127 pages; 39 plates; one map. Price: 35s.For the past twelve years hero stories have been filtering out of the British Isles. This information...
GUSTAVO BRILLEMBOURG1957-1993Gustavo Brillembourg was climbing the Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock in the Yosemite on September 28. Having climbed the major difficulties of the route, Gustavo was leading the next to the last pitch when...
Nooksack Tower, south face. In July Ben Manfredi and I teamed up to try a beautiful new face in the Mt. Shuksan region. The face is the seldom-seen steep “back side”—the south face of Nooksack Tower. The route is directly above the East Nooksack G...
Yarupa and Other Peaks, Cordillera Raura. Our expedition was composed of Ottavio Bastrenta, Fiolin Gugliermo Bertino, Gian Battista Campiglia, Giuseppe Ferrari, Vittorio Lazzarino, Renato Lingua, Piero Malvassora, Corradino Rabbi, all instructors ...
Himalaya—The Next Twenty-Five YearsTrevor Braham, Alpine ClubWRITING IN LES ALPES IN 1934, the Swiss cartographer and alpine chronicler Marcel Kurz remarked that it did not seem unreasonable to apply the word congested when referring to the launch...
The American Alpine Club provides resources for climbers and explorers to attempt new challenges, conduct scientific research, and conserve mountain environments. The AAC gives out more than $35,000 annually, although the size and number of awards...
Above my head there’s a loud bang, as though a gigantic door is slamming shut. The snowy whirlwind condenses into foamy syrup. “The most important thing is not to breathe…don’t breathe!” I clutch my ice axe and press my head against the ice. A mas...
The Climb up to Hell, by Jack Olsen. New York: Harper and Row 1962. 212 pages, ills., Price $4.95.This is a well written account of the 1957 tragedy on the Eiger. In early August two parties set out independently to climb the north wall. Overtaken...
Miscellaneous Information Numbers Refer to Number of Persons InvolvedTerrain1951-611959-611961U.S.CAN.U.S.CAN.Rock 3033561Snow 19122260River 1010Unknown 0000Ascent or Descent(River crossing not included)Ascent 21615491Descent2429280Unknown 36160Im...
Cordillera Vilcanota. When William Whelen and I left New Zealand our plan was to join the 1970 New Zealand Andean Expedition climbing on the eastern side of the Cordillera Blanca. The earthquake prevented our making the planned rendezvous. Thanks ...
Grand Teton, The Golden Pillar and other new Teton free climbs. On July 11 Hans Johnstone and I opened a classic, flashable, hard crack line (V 5.12-) on the golden pillar of overhanging rock west of the normal North Face route on the Grand Teton....
LOOSE ROCK, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 11, 1981, Shift Supervisor John Daley received a report from climber Fred East that he had heard cries for help on El Capitan. East had been at the base of El Capita...
Oregon, Saddle Mountain. On 2 August Dennis Bean, John Neuschwan- ger, and Bob Kennedy started a climb of Saddle Mountain, a rock-buttress in Oregon’s Coast Range (elev. 3282'). They chose to climb the series of cliffs to the left, or west of the ...
SLIP ON SNOW, DESCENDING UNROPED, PULMONARY EDEMA, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn July 10, 1983, the nine-person Republic of China–Taiwan expedition flew into the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier on Mount McKinley. The expedition plann...
Dhaulagiri VI. The Kansai Mountaineering Club sent an expedition to the western Dhaulagiri range in the pre-monsoon season. Our original plan was to aim from the southwest at Dhaulagiri IV (25,133 feet) via Dhaulagiri VI (24,002 feet). Unexpected ...
Peruvian Ascents. A number of peaks were climbed by Peruvians and by people living in Peru during the past year. The following were first ascents: Yanasinga Central (17,782 feet) on April 29 by Alberto Canaval; Diente del Yanasinga (17,061 feet) o...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. No other club is so favorably situated with respect to the mountains as are we, with the Chugach Range right in our back yard and the Aleutian, Alaska, Talkeetna, and Kenai Ranges all within sight. While our weather ...
DEAN LANGMUIR1886 ¦ 1950Dean Langmuir, who joined the Club in 1922, died on 8 January 1950. A native New Yorker who spent most of his life in the city, he had shown his love of the outdoors and the sport of mountaineering even before his graduatio...
Coast Range B.C./AK, first complete ski traverse. From Feb. 2 to July 17, 2001, we traversed the spine of the Coast Range Mountains from Vancouver, B.C., to Skagway, Alaska. The trip was 2,015 km. in length, and was done primarily on skis.The Coas...
Italiani sulle montagne del mondo* by Mario Fantin. Bologna: Capelli Editore, 1967. 137 photos, 36 maps. Price: L. 12,000.Signor Fantin is an Italian mountaineer who has traveled in all five continents, not only climbing, but also collecting infor...