RAPPEL ERROR – FAULTY USE OF EQUIPMENT, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, POOR ROUTE RESEARCHAlberta, Jasper National Park, Morrow PeakOn July 18, MJ and AB left the climbers parking lot at 0930 to climb Morrow Peak via the guide’s route. Weather was good b...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Correction. On page 278 of A.A.J., 1987, it was omitted that Rüdiger Lang had climbed solo to the summit on August 17, 1986, the day before his companions.
Cordillera Real. The Chileans, Ociel González, Heinz Koch, Alvaro Ramos, and Hernán Cruz, made the second ascent of Ayllaico (17,390 feet) and the fourth ascent of Pico Negro (18,370 feet).
During the months of June and July, Dave Anderson, Steph Davis, Brady Robinson, and I were given a special permit to explore and climb in the Kondus Valley of Pakistan’s eastern Karakoram. The Kondus Valley had been closed to foreigners for the pa...
Everest, First Mexican Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was made up of Americans Scott Fischer, Robert Reynolds, Wally Berg, Bill Butler, Pat Howard, Tim Thorne, Ken Frick, Scott Moore, Dick Moran, Sheri Henderson, Peter Jamieson and me as leade...
Cheo Himal. The previously untrodden summit of Cheo Himal (6820 meters, 22,375 feet), which is north-northwest of Manaslu, was reached on October 13 by Japanese Shigeki Imoto and Nepalese Tshering Sherpa, Ful Bahadur Rai and Dambar Bahadur Gurung,...
FALLING ROCK-THROWN FROM RIDGEWyoming, Wind River Range, Leg lake CirqueOn August 11, Luke Rodolph (23) stood on the rim of Upper Silas Canyon with three of his friends. He allegedly looked over the edge of the rim and didn’t see anyone. He then t...
Vinson Massif, New Routes. My wife Jo and I have just returned from the Vinson Massif, where we completed two new routes on Vinson from the west. The first route was made from Camp on the normal route. In a four-day climb up and down, we took a li...
The Incredible Hulk, Macedonian Route. In late July Dave Bircheff and I climbed a new route on the west face of the Incredible Hulk. The route was eleven pitches of mixed free and aid. At the base of the west face a left-leaning crack (the right ...
Mount Sanford, Ski Ascent. A winter attempt on Mount Sanford (16,230 feet) by Mark Moderow, Dennis Cowacs, Bill Laxson and me in late March failed in miserable weather at 13,000 feet. On July 17 David Titus, my wife Rowi and I climbed the peak fro...
Koz Sar Attempt. Our party consisted of Peter Williams, Declan MacMahan, Steve Richardson, Ivan Wolton and me as leader. We hoped to make the first ascent of Koz Sar (6677 meters, 21,875 feet) at the western end of the Karakoram. Being close to Af...
Lone Pine Peak, Direct South Face. Early in May, Fred Beckey and I established ourselves in an abandoned stone house an hour from the south face of Lone Pine Peak (12,951 feet). Expecting the worst, we ferried heavy packs to a point directly benea...
P 1881, Northwest of Narssarssuaq, Southwest Greenland. Although only about 25 air-miles from Narssarssuaq, there are relatively high groups of untouched alpine peaks. The right (northwest) bank of the glacier, the Eqalorutsit Kangigdlît Sermiat, ...
Blackcap. Four members of the Alaska Alpine Club, John Hodsdon, Jim Mack, Ron DeWitt and I made the first ascent of Mount Blackcap (9850 feet) at the head of the Castner Glacier on the weekend of July 16. Leaving the Richardson Highway at eleven P...
Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. An 8-man Polish expedition led by Zdzi- slowski was active in the Sierra Nevada de Cocuy.* They made six new routes, given here with altitude, height of the climb and UIAA rating: Pan de Azúcar (5100 meters, 16,733 feet; 16...
Little Switzerland, Various Ascents. On June 20, Rob Feeney and I flew into Little Switzerland and set up a base camp on the Pika Glacier. After a 24-hour rain storm, the clouds parted and we had mostly good weather for the next ten days. We spent...
Trisul. The Himalayan Association of Japan Garhwal Expedition was composed of Sadashige Inada, leader, Kazuo Nonaka, Fuji Tsunoda, Hideko Annaka and Keiko Tsurube, the latter two women, Setsuo Suzuki, Hideo Hatakeyama, Takao Iijima, Isato Kitagawa...
Nez Perce, South Ridge, variation. The south ridge route (1954) had the defect of bypassing on the right (east) the steepest section of the ridge, a “steep, massive buttress” of some 300 feet. This section was climbed directly on August 10 by Jack...
Liberty Bell, Southeast Corner, Freedom Rider. Bryan Burdo and I climbed this route on August 13 and 14. It follows the comer system beginning 150 feet left of Liberty Crack. After the first few moderate pitches, increasingly difficult climbing on...
Dhaulagiri II, III and. V Traverse. Nineteen Japanese men were led by me, the only woman on the expedition. Base Camp was set up south of the peaks at 16,000 feet on the Tsaulabon Glacier. There on September 3 the climbers split. One group establi...