On July 1, the same day that the Svihalek brothers put up Stay Cool, Filip Zaoral and I climbed the huge corner system on the left side of the south face of Rundtinden. This nine-pitch (400m) route, climbed in four hours using only nuts and cams f...

FALL INTO CREVASSE—PRECEEDED BY OTHER INCIDENTS Washington, Glacier PeakOn September 3, 1988, a party of five Seattle Mountaineers started out for a three-day Labor Day climb of Glacier peak via the Vista Glacier. There were nine of us, three rope...

Commando Climber, by Mike Banks. 240 pages, 18 photos, sketches. London: J. M. Dent & Sons Ltd., 1955. Price, 18 s.The author is a captain of the Royal Marines who served with the 3rd Commando Brigade in Burma during the last war, and then ret...

Iowa Mountaineers. During the past year there was an increasing indication that the club is changing from a university and Iowa organization to one with a majority of its members living in other states, especially Minnesota, Wisconsin, Illinois, M...

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN1951152211319523135171319532427121219543141318195534392861956467254131957455328181958323923111959422562310192196047464123781941961499611445101441962711901640191...

First Traverse of the Howser Spires, BugaboosDouglas R. TompkinsThe two exceptional companions whom Yvon Chouinard and I had on our successful traverse of the towers of the Howser Spires in the Bugaboos this past summer, Eric Rayson and Jock Lang,...

STRANDED - INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn September 3,, a male (29) and female (30) climbed The Yellow Spur (5.9/5.10) on Redgarden Wall. When the climbers topped- out, they asked the party just ahead of them (the secon...

Toro Peak, south face; Point JAMES, Australian route, second ascent. Elizabeth Fredell and I climbed two routes in the Miyar. On Toro we repeated the first few pitches of the 2008 López- Pfaff Direttissima, as far as the diagonal trough, rating th...

FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE, WEATHER, INADEQUATE CLOTHING ANDEQUIPMENTAlaska, Mount McKinleyVictor Pomerantsev (52) departed June 12,1994, for a solo climb of the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. He climbed quickly, arriving at the 16,200 foot level on Ju...

Some Mountain StampsJoel E. FisherTHE writer, being a collector of stamps, suggested to the Editor that other readers, too, might be interested in stamps which carry mountain views, hence this number’s frontispiece.At the top will be seen two of t...

CRAMPON PROBLEM, INEXPERIENCE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 8, the “Love Mountain and Beer” party of three Japanese climbers flew in to climb the West Buttress. They reached the summit on June 21 at 1620 in very good weather conditi...

Nameless Pyramid, East Face, Direct Finish. The East Face of Nameless Pyramid (5.8) is a popular backcountry route, often done car-to-car in a long day. In July, Eric Tipton and I climbed the route, doing two new final pitches. From the notch on t...

Makalu, southeast ridge integral attempt. In spring a 14-member British Services expedition hoped to climb the south east ridge integral and arriving at the usual 4,700m base camp on April 8, first investigated the south east glacier approach. How...

Project MayhemMastering the chaos during solo battles on “the hardest big-wall route on the planet,” Mt. Thor, Baffin Island.Jim BeyerAll my carefully laid plans are unraveling into chaos. It’s deep into my third night alone on Mt. Thor. Sitting o...

Kwangde Shar, northeast ridge, alpine style winter ascent. On December 8, Corean Alpine Club Technical Committee members Yu Hak-jae and Park Seok-hee established base camp about three hours below the north face of Kwangde, with plans to make the f...

Sentinel Rock, North Face Direct. On May 7, late on the third day of climbing, Tom Frost and I completed a new route on the north face of Sentinel Rock. The standard route goes up near the right margin of the face, while our direct route ascends i...

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...

Dead Lucky: My Journey Home from Everest. Lincoln Hall. New York: Tarcher/Penguin, 2008. 309pages. $24.95.Dead Lucky enters into the already very crowded field of Everest disaster stories. In many ways the book follows the typical narrative arc so...

Mt. Slaggard Area, Various Activity. Ten of us spent June 28 to July 14 at a base camp five kilometers south-southwest of Mt. Slaggard on the uppermost eastern basin of the southeastern arm of the Anderson Glacier at an elevation of 3535 meters. T...

ONE NEVER KNOWS how things will end in this world. How could I have known, back in 1941, when I paired up with Andy Kauffman in the ice gullies of Mt. Washington, that our teamwork would end by my writing his obituary? In Andy’s junior (and my fre...