Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Kumaon and Garhwal, Jogin I and II

Jogin I and II. A Japanese expedition climbed Jogin I (6465 meters, 21,210 feet) on August 19 when leader Jushichiro Otsubo, Mrs. Yachiyo Yamanaka, Mrs. Kimiko Yamashita, Yukio Shiozawa, Hideaki Nara and Mrs. Kieko Tezuka reached the top. On Augus...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Eastern Karakoram, Saser Kangri I and IV, 1988

Saser Kangri I and IV, 1988. The 144 kilometers from Leh to Panamik were covered by Army trucks via the highest road in the world; this crosses the Khardung La at 18,380 feet. Base Camp at 15,500 feet was set up on July 19, 1988 after a two-day tr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Cho Oyu

Cho Oyu. A strong British party failed in its pre-monsoon attempt on Cho Oyu, 26,750 feet, in Nepal, only about eighteen miles from Mt. Everest. Under the leadership of Eric Shipton, the group consisted of the Canadian Campbell Secord, three New Z...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Malubiting Group, Karakoram

Malubiting Group, Karakoram. The members of the expedition of the Bologna section of the Italian Alpine Club were Dr. Achille Poluzzi, Lino Bortolami, Silvano Fusaro, Gianpaolo Nann, Guerrino Sacchin, Nando Stagni and I as leader. We hoped to reco...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Himalaya

A sign that the Himalayas are becoming a climbing group adaptable to small parties was the fine attempt on Peak K 36 in the Saltoro Range of the Karakorum. A party consisting of James Waller, Dr. J. S. Carslaw, Rowland Brotherhood and John Hunt wi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan, East Ridge

Mount Logan, East Ridge. On June 10 Sandy Brown, Tom Dyer, Rick Holmes, Dave Williams and I left the bridge over Slim’s River and arrived on the 18th at the base of the east ridge of Mount Logan via the Kaskawulsh and Hubbard Glaciers. Gil Harder ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Newfoundland, Jabo, Weightin' for That Train and Other New Routes

Jabo, Weightin' For That Train and Other New Routes. Expedition members Eric Baldwin, Jeff Butterfield, Craig Comstock, Chris Kane, Karen Rogers, Paul Ryan and Joe Terravecchia arrived in Francois, Newfoundland on September 7. Over a 19-day period...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falls on Snow, Falling Rocks, Oregon, Mount Hood

FALLS ON SNOW, FALLING ROCKS Oregon, Mount HoodFollowing on from the previous report, this summary is presented. Four other accidents involving a combination of falling on snow and falling rocks were reported from Mount Hood from last year. One in...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadquate Protection, No Hard Hat, Oregon, Rocky Butte

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATOregon, Rocky ButteOn May 14, while leading a fifth class route, Christian Steiner (27) fell approximately 50 feet, sustaining a fatal head injury. It is believed that he climbed well above his last ...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Southern California Section

A.A.C., Southern California Section. This Section met in November 1975 for the first time in two years. Pete White was elected the new Chairman; Mike Sherrick was re-elected Secretary-Treasurer. The Section voted to contribute modest monetary assi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Fairweather Starvation Expedition

Fairweather Starvation Expedition. Six climbers from the State of Washington, John H. Olson*, Jerome Eberharter, Steve Doty, Gregg Foster, Reese Martin and Steve Pollock, had hoped in June to do some difficult new routes in the Fairweather Range. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Bubbs Creek Wall, Samurai Warrior California, Sierra Nevada

Over three days in September, Dave Nettle and I established a new route on Bubbs Creek Wall in Kings Canyon. Samurai Warrior (V 5.11 A1) follows the first pitch and a half of Crystal Bonzai before taking an independent line to the right. All but t...

| Published N/A | Author Brandon Thau


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Peak 10552, Cathedral Rock, Pillar of Death

Peak 10552, Cathedral Rock, Pillar of Death. On July 19 Rick Medrick and David Dornan climbed the prominent buttress on the right (east) side of Cathedral Rock, which is the last formation encountered on the right (north) as one proceeds up the De...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, The Bastille

FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT Colorado, Eldorado State Park, The BastilleOn June 18 and 29, 1994, respectively, two climbers (33 and 40) took falls, had protection pull out, and turn upside down. In the first instance, the vict...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Steele

Mount Steele. In the summer of 1977 the weather seems to have been particularly bad and after one expensive, abortive attempt to fly to the southeast side of Lucania and Steele, we changed our objective to the east ridge of Steele and hoped to tra...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Near Bishop, Unnamed 12,000 Foot Peak in Sierra Nevada

California, near Bishop, Unnamed 12,000 foot peak in Sierra Nevada— Whit Inman and his father were members of a group of 130 persons on a two-week pack trip in the High Sierra conducted by the Sierra Club in August. The boy was one of ten ascendin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India Punjab, Hanuman Tibba

Hanuman Tibba. The third ascent of this peak was made on June 11 by four instructors and seven lady students of the Himalayan Institute of Mountaineering, Manali. The original objective of climbing Mukerbey was abandoned when one of the instructor...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate (No) Belay, Miscommunication, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Wind Tower

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE (NO) BELAY, MISCOMMUNICATION Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Wind TowerOn June 30, a climber (16) fell 15 feet onto a rock ledge on Wind Tower. She thought she was being protected by the top rope. The rope went from ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Clear Creek Canyon

Colorado, Clear Creek Canyon—On May 3, a party of five went to Clear Creek Canyon, west of Denver, to practice rock climbing. The party apparently climbed the face of a rock cliff using conventional methods. They then returned to the base of the c...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Temple

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. TempleBill Walker set out to scramble up the easy route on Mt. Temple on 15 September 1979. He failed to return and a search was begun. Another climber found his body near the 10,000 foot ...