FALL ON SNOW/ICE, FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHERCalifornia, Mount ShastaOn Friday, September 28, 1984, Jerry Ackeret (45), John Sharp (32), John Colteaux (49) and...
Ama Dablam Northeast Face. In early December Carlos Buhler and I made the first ascent of the northeast face of Ama Dablam. Flanked by the east and north ridges, this face is hidden from view until one walks beyond the village of Chukung, and is b...
Cerro Escudo, The Dream, Attempt. At the end of January, our party arrived at the Japanese camp. There was nobody else there, except a group of three Basques and two Chileans. Our plan was to climb a new route on Fortaleza. After a typical few-day...
Rondespiret and Other Ascents. In the 1997 AAJ, p. 268, an account may be found of the Norwegian expedition that successfully made the first ascent of the 800-meter Rondespiret (The Ronde Spire, 2427m) via the northeast face (Norwegian Grade 6+ A3...
ALASKA, MT. McKINLEYMembers of the Wilcox Party:Joseph F. Wilcox (24), leader F. Jerry Clark (31) *Henry Janes (25)*Dennis Luchterland (24)*Mark McLaughlin (23)*John Russell (23)*Anshel Schiff (30)Steve Taylor (22)*Walter Taylor (24)*— combined wi...
We were lucky this time. Jurek Stefanski, Wawrzyniec “Wawa” Zakrzewski, and I wanted to make free ascents of War and Poetry, on the west face of Ulamertorssuaq, and Stupid White Man, on the west face of Nalumasortoq. In 2007 Wawa and I tried both,...
FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Lembert DomeOn July 5, John Hrizo (36) was injured in a lead fall of about thirty feet on the second pitch of Northwest Books on Lembert Dome (5.6, 3 pitches).According to Hrizo, he did all the leading, fol...
Tupilak, new route and other first ascents. Previously unreported was a productive expedition to Schweizerland in July-August 2000 by Alexander Fidi, Julian Neumayer, Matthias Leitner, Wolfgang Schöls, Jörg Susnik (all Austrians), and Richard Jewe...
Cathedral Peak Attempt, Lemon Bjerge, East Greenland. Our expedition was organized to send a small, unsupported party of mountaineers into the interior of Greenland to scale unclimbed Cathedral Peak. We wanted to be self-sufficient and therefore p...
The Adankasima Tepui, in the heart of the Bolivar State, is one of 13 tepuis comprising the Chimanta Massif. It is a magical land, where miles and miles of tepuis and sandstone walls make us forget the chores and daily problems of the city. The ma...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT–FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, El CapitanOn May 17, Alexander Scola (28) and his partner (23) were on their first climbing trip to the U.S. from their homes in Germany. Scola had been c...
Various ascents. The Anglo-Scot- tish Vilcanota Expedition 2004 had as its primary objective the south face of Colque Cruz 1 (6,102m). Our leader, Dave Wilkinson, had made two earlier expeditions to the Vilcanota, in the 1980s, but we were unaware...
New Variants on the East Ridge of the Grand Teton and on Teepe’s Pillar. Yves Erikson and William Briggs made a new variant on the long east ridge of the Grand Teton in early August. After a 4:15 A.M. start from Amphitheater Lake, they climbed unr...
Drohmo and Janak. On April 13, a small Anglo-American-Nepalese expedition established Base Camp on the summer yak pastures of Lhonak (4650m), the site normally used for the penultimate overnight camp on the trek in to Kangchenjunga’s North Side Ba...
Agujas Walicho and Kenko, first ascents. In early March 2007 Chileans Tomas Marusic (from Punta Arenas), Jaime Sapunar (from Puerto Natales), and I climbed two towers between Cerro Blanco Sur and Cordon Olguin in the northwest corner of the Torres...
“Paradox Peak,” Farnham Group. On July 25 John Jeglum, Doug Martin and I left Toby Creek road near its junction with Jumbo Creek at about 4500 feet for 9810-foot “Paradox Peak,” the southernmost of the Farnham group. For 3½ hours we followed a fa...
Kara-su Valley, Pik 4,810, first winter ascents and Russian Piolet d’Or. Three teams arrived in the Kara-su during the winter, planning to attempt routes on the stupendous 1,200m northwest face of Pik 4,810 (Pik Boston, 4,810m) and hoping to win f...
Minya Konka. The Chinese report the second ascent of Minya Konka, which was first climbed by our members Terris Moore and the late Richard Burdsall, supported by Arthur B. Emmons III and Jack Young. Six members of the 29-man Chinese expedition, in...
Management of Wilderness and Environmental Emergencies. Paul S. Auerbach and Edward C. Geehr, editors. Macmillan Publishing Company, New York, 1983. 656 pages, illustrated. $68.00.Weighing in at over four pounds, and written in medispeak, this is ...
Ak Saitan. After a difficult journey through Kyrgyzstan in August, Iñaki Cabo, Elena de Castro, Ferran Latorre, and I finally arrive at base camp on the Komarova Glacier. The potential of the area is immense. One formation in particular draws our ...