Rensselaer Mountaineering Club. Fortunate in having lost a minimum of leaders through graduation, the R.M.C. has been able to expand its activities greatly during the past year. Membership has doubled, and attempts are constantly being made to int...
Pik Stalin, East Face, Pamirs. A group of 42 foreigners and 50 climbers from all parts of the U.S.S.R. met at a 11,650-foot Base Camp in the Altai valley at the northern foot of 23,407-foot Pik Lenin. Most climbed the usual western or northeastern...
Tawoche, East Face in Winter, 1989. Jeff Lowe and John Roskelley made a brilliant and difficult new route on the 4000-foot-high east face of Tawoche. There was comparatively little ice and snow this winter, which doubtless made the climb harder. I...
Tasermiut Fjord, Ketil, west face, first alpine-style ascent, correction. AAJ 2000 reported an ascent, thought to be the fourth, of the 1977 French Route on the west face of Ketil. The two climbers, Americans Jon Allen and Doug Byerly, believed th...
In August, a party of two were climbing the Daddy (5.6) a classic 5-pitch route located in the Amphitheater, Linville Gorge Wilderness Area. The incident started when the lead climber (LC) was 65 feet above the large traverse ledge located on the ...
Argentine Attempt on Mount Everest. Our expedition had government support and therefore included eight military: Lieutenant Colonel H. Cativa Tolosa, Captain N. Azuaga, Lieutenants J. M. Llavar and M. Serrano and Sergeants E. Burgos, G. Robles, A....
Salto del Angel. Three routes have now been climbed beside the Angel Falls, possibly the highest waterfall in the world, which drops some 2800 feet. In March, Spaniards climbed a new route 100 meters to the left of the falls. Nearly all the face w...
Our main target had been Nordenskjold (2,355m), but we were beaten back below the summit ridge by a typically ferocious South Georgia storm. Sailing back along the north coast of the island in clear weather, we made an impetuous decision as ...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Snoqualmie PassOn June 24, 1987, my partner and I (48) had climbed 50 meters of a Class 4 chimney of Chair Peak. Then we came to an easy section. I coiled the rope around my neck and started to angle up. Just as I got direc...
Sudarshan Parbat, Southwest Ridge. Our expedition was successful in climbing a new route on Sudarshan Parbat, mainly because of good weather and good acclimatization of the members. Base Camp was established on the Raktvarn Glacier at 4600 meters ...
Aguja Mermoz, new variation. On February 7, 2004, Maciej Ciesielski and I added five new pitches, onsight at VII UIAA (5.10d) with one short tension traverse (new pitches: VII-, VII- /VII, VII-, VI+/A0 and V+), on the west face slabs between Iperm...
Howser Spire, West Face, Bugaboos. Steve Sutton and Hugh Burton made a new direct route on the west face of Howser Spire. This 3000- foot-high route took three bivouacs and was 40% direct aid.
Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz. In June, I made two forays from La Paz into this range south of Illimani. In the first, I attempted the west side of Nevado Vila Collo (5400 meters) but did not scale the last 200 meters of ice polished by wind and droug...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Mount WhitneyOn October 6, 1989, Louis Morris (31), Steve Nootenboom (33) and Bruce Hubbard(36) were descending the Mountaineers Route on Mount Whitney about 1600, after climbing the East Face to the s...
On October 8, Kevin (51), an experienced climber, and his wife started the first pitch of Grandmother’s Challenge (5.10c), a two-pitch climb on Redgarden Wall. The first pitch is rated 5.8. Kevin was approximately 30 feet above the ground with n...
Moab Area. A relatively new climbing area is known as Culvert Canyon It is located ten miles down the Potash Road (State Highway 313) just beyond the trailhead for Corona Arch. At the right corner of the canyon, up Wingate sandstone walls, are Fin...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn May 15, 1991, at 2030, I interviewed Karin Olson’s (23) climbing partner, Leo Henson (29) at Yosemite Medical Clinic. (Olson was being treated for her injuries and was unavailabl...
Sani Pokukush Tragedy. A nine-man Japanese expedition was led by Mineo Kawai. They had hoped to climb Sani Pokukush (6885 meters, 22,600 feet) but the expedition was called off when on July 15 Jin Tokuda died of Acute Mountain Sickness.
Quarry’s South Peak, New Route. Although the best line on the rounded east face had been done years ago by Alan Bartlett, I thought that there were still some unclimbed lines. Philip Karl, Steve Hyde, and I made the long hike to Matterhorn Canyon,...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, PARTY SEPARATED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AthabascaA party of two set out to climb the north ridge of Mount Athabasca on the morning of February 26, 1993. They crossed the North Glacier to gain acc...