Lobuje West, southwest face, Korean Direct. A six-man Korean team comprising Kang Sung-woo (leader), Ahn Chi-young, Gwon Jung-hyo, Lee Tae-gyun, Eddy Park-Jun, and I made the first ascent of 6,145m West Lobuje’s southwest face on April 16. The wea...
Mount McKinley, Wickersham Wall, Second Ascent of the Canadian Route. On May 5, Rick Wyatt, Evelyn Lees, Kelly McKean and I departed from the Kahiltna Landing Base, bound for the north of McKinley to attempt an alpine- style ascent of the Canadian...
CEREBRAL AND PULMONARY EDEMAYukon Territory, Mt. Logan, East RidgeOn July 16, 1980, Kluane Park Headquarters received word that one member of a four-man party required evacuation from the 12,500-foot level on the east ridge. Michael Kowalski had d...
On May 12 Malcolm Daly (43) and Jim Donini (57) of Boulder, Colorado flew onto the Tokositna Glacier at 7,500 feet to attempt a new route on Mount Hunter (14,573 feet). The Colorado team spotted a potential route on Thunder Mountain (10,970 feet)—...
Ama Dablam, northeast face to north ridge, new route attempt. A Corean Alpine Club expedition led by Cho Yu-dong, with Cha Gyeong-ryeol, Choi Dong-ryeol, Choi Young-sik, Jang Byeongwook, Kim Dong-gyu, Park Seok-hee, and Yang Byeong-ok, reached bas...
Hell’s GateNear Kenyas largest city, huge hexagonal columns provide lonely jamming and loads of potentialAlex FiksmanRising from the Rift Valley floor less than 100 kilometers from Nairobi is one of Kenya’s most spectacular climbing areas, Hell’s ...
Deep South Section. The Deep South Section had an active inaugural year, with our members taking a stance in the climbing and conservation communities throughout the southeast. Our Section covers Georgia, Alabama, Florida, Mississippi, and Louisia...
Manaslu, Ascent and Tragedy. Japanese Masatsugu Konishi gained the summit of Manaslu on September 30 with two teammates from their party of five Japanese climbers and five climbing Sherpas. They had made a late start for the summit because of stro...
Triumph and Tragedy: the Life of Edward Whymper. Emil Henry. Matador (U.K.), 2011. 428 pages. B&W Sketches taken from Whymper’s published works. Hardcover. $29.95There are two justifications for a new account of a historical figure marbleized ...
Ursa Major, Midnight Watch, New Route. Ben DeMenech, John Millar, and I explored Gibbs Fjord near Clyde River on Baffin Island in May. With the help of our Inuit friends, Ilkoo and Jake of Quillikkut Outfitters, the trip in was an easy 12 hours. W...
On Thin Ice: Alpine Climbs in the Americas, Asia and the Himalaya.Mick Fowler. Foreword by Chris Bonington. London: Bâton Wicks, 2005. Hardcover. 24 pages of color photographs; 18 MAPS/DIAGRAMS. 224 PAGES. £18.99. $45-00.This, Fowlers second book ...
East McMillan Spire, Come over to the Dark Side. Under fine weather Erik Johnson and I spent two days approaching East McMillan Spire, and then one tentbound in the rain. On day four the skies cleared as we traversed the remnants of the McMillan C...
Kenton Cool and I arrived in the Alaska Range at the beginning of May, hoping to steal a march on other potential suitors to a new line on Foraker. After failing to climb the standard West Butt route for acclimatization, with Kenton turned back by...
Pete Absolon 1960–2007On August 11, a hiker trundled a rock that killed Pete Abosolon, 47, as he was climbing a new route in Leg Lake Cirque in the Southern Wind River Mountains.Though born in St. Paul, Minnesota, Pete spent his childhood in Texas...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. In January, 1958 Piero Ghiglione returned to the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, ascending the Donachuí valley, accompanied by the guides G. Pirovano and G. C. Canali. They established base camp between the Pico Ojeda (...
Over the summer, Greg Corliss, my wife Hjördis Rickert, and I climbed a new line on the thin spire just south and essentially part of the Third Needle along the Whitney Crest. The route goes through two roofs and corners on the east face of ...
KangchenjungaCHARLES EVANSFEW great Himalayan peaks are climbed at the first attempt and without much preliminary exploration. Kangchenjunga is no exception, for as long ago as 1899 Freshfield, the first European to make a circuit of the mountain...
RAPPEL ERROR, ROPE FAILED–INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTUtah, Millcreek CanyonOn August 16, “Jim” (28) and “Kirk” (32) set up a sport-rappel at a small crag in Millcreek Canyon. They used an old cotton rope from Kirk’s toolbox and tied off natural features ...
The North Face of Mount BaringFred Beckey and Edward CooperOf the many sheer mountain walls in the Cascades, those near an existing highway are bound to attract the most attention, and when one remains unclimbed after several attempts, it soon gai...
Mt. Alberta, Brazeau-Walsh. On September 6 Jon Walsh and I forded the frigid waters of the Sunwapta River with a bit of food, lots of fancy-wrapped processed sugar/caffeine products, and high hopes for good conditions on the remote and seldom visi...