Churen Himal. The Academic Alpine Club of Shizuoka had as overall leader Takashi Serizawa and as climbing leader Ryozo Yamamoto. They placed Camp VI at 22,300 feet above the Ghustang Khola. The central peak (24,184 feet) was reached on October 24 ...
Sierra Nevada, California: (2) Half Dome (Yosemite National Park). On 15 September 1948 Paul H. Garinger (30-35) was seen descending the cable on Half Dome. He stopped and appeared to be ill. Seconds later, he disappeared. It is thought that he fa...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPEDWyoming, TetonsOn January 18, 1981, Harry Frishman (38) and Mark Whitten signed out at the Moose Visitor Center for a climb of the Black Ice Gully on the Middle Teton. They hiked to the Lower Saddle and spent the night...
Snowpatch Spire, Direct West Face. Early in August, Fred Beckey and I turned our attention to the very wide west face of Snowpatch. Four routes already had been made on the face, three of which end at the north summit, a long way from the true, so...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONEUtah, Little Cottonwood CanyonOn December 27, 1983, Roger Amory (21) was climbing on a popular ice route at the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon when his ice tools came out near the top of the climb, resulting in a fall...
FALL ON ROCK AND SLIP ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSCalifornia, Sierra NevadaOn May 19, 1985, Sean Collinsworth (29) was climbing a 5.4 rock and was about 65 meters from the summit of University Peak when he pulled a hold loose an...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED, WEATHER, NO HARD HATOntario, Rattlesnake PointAt 1850 on April 14,1987, an experienced climber (34) was attempting to untie a top rope where it was anchored at the top of the escarpment on Rattlesnake Point (Climb #9). Appar...
Foraker Tragedy, Pink Panther Route. Our original plan was for Tom Walter, Ritt Kellogg and me to join forces on June 13 at the Kahiltna Base Camp to try an unclimbed route on Hunter, the ridge just south of its west ridge, which Walter had attemp...
Ganesh I Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Micheline Matile, Christian Meier, André Kohler, Michel and Marie-Rose Geissbuhler, Laurent and Christine Paillard, Patricia Mercier and me. We placed Base Camp on April 20 at 3800 meters on the Song J...
Tukche Peak. The Tokyo Yakka University expedition was led by Kiichi Sakaguchi. On October 17 Naotami Yatsuyama and Sherpa Lakpa Norbu climbed to the top (22,730 feet) from Camp III at 22,650 feet.Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club
Pauhunri, 1989. The fifth ascent of Pauhunri (7125 meters, 23,376 feet) was made on November 1, 1989. Base Camp at Chholamo and Camps I and II were established at 5100, 5345 and 6210 meters. From Camp II on the north col, the summit was reached in...
Aleta de Tiburón, Paine Group. After failing to climb Fitz Roy in early February, on February 28 Swedes Patrick Lind, Magnus Nilson and Americans Lorna Corson and 1 climbed the beautiful Aleta de Tiburón above the Valle del Francés by a crack syst...
Pamir Mountains. The yearly Soviet International Mountaineering Camps have become more and more popular. Last summer climbers from 18 countries participated, 45 climbers from Switzerland, 42 from the USA and 34 from Bulgaria. High quality routes a...
Monte Sarmiento, Tierra del Fuego. An Italian expedition under leadership of 74-year-old Padre Alberto M. de Agostini climbed Monte Sarmiento, the highest point in Tierra del Fuego and the goal of Sir Martin Conway, in 1898, and of Padre de Agosti...
Pik Pobedy Massif Traverse, Tien Shan. Continuing the training for the great Kangchenjunga traverse, planned for the spring of 1989, in August a Soviet team completed the whole traverse of the Pik Pobedy massif. The 26-member party was divided int...
Dorje Lhakpa, Winter Attempt and Tragedy. Before this season, all climbs on Dorje Lhakpa (6966 meters, 22,854 feet) had been made on its west ridge, and seven of the ten previous ascents had been successful. Greg Collum and I planned to make an at...
I first saw Janak in 2000, when I led an expedition of 10 young alpinists to the Himalaya. One of our goals was Janak Chuli, but, having arrived in Nepal, we discovered the mountain was still not on the list of allowed peaks. After Andrej Markovic...
Lost Lhasa: Heinrich Harrer’s Tibet. Heinrich Harrer. Abrams, New York, 1992. 200 pages, 200 black-and-white illustrations. $39.95.Heinrich Harrer was an impatient young man. As he put it: “I was highly ambitious; I often thought that if you can b...
Protected on all sides by Shey Phoksundo National Park, the Kanjiroba massif is wild and rarely visited. No trails or trekking itineraries go near it, but many summits are open for climbers, and currently permits are free. The route from Surket to...
Oregon, Mt. Hood—On June 20, there was a regularly scheduled Explorer Scout Climb of the South side of Mt. Hood. Co-leaders were John McCloskey and Amos Smelser, both Mazamas. The party consisted of 32 boys and 16 adults. Four of the boys stayed a...