Singuchuli, East Face. Until our visit, the east face of Singuchuli remained unclimbed. The face is 1450 meters high with an average angle of approximately 65°, and characterized by narrow couloirs, especially in upper part of the face. Over the e...
West Greenland and Mount Raleigh, Baffin Island. The objective for Mischief’s second voyage to Davis Strait was Mount Raleigh in Exeter Sound on the east coast of Baffin Island. This mountain was so named by the great seaman-explorer John Davis in...
Nez Perce, Lemon Crack. This new route (III, F9, A3), climbed on August 1, 1969, by Peter Cleveland and Michael Yokell, is on the same cliff as the “Big Bluff’ route which was established some ten years ago. The route starts in a cave below a whit...
Salcantay, East Ridge. On July 27 we pitched Base Camp at 14,275 feet below the east ridge of Salcantay. We placed camps at 16,250, 17,400 and 19,300 feet. On August 4 and 5 Dr. Mario Quattrini, Giorgio Marconi, Antonio Mangononi, Consuelo Bonaldi...
Tharkot. A Japanese expedition of 29 men and four women climbed Tharkot (20,010 feet), which lies seven miles southeast of Trisul. They climbed from the Mrigthuni Glacier with three camps. A total of 24 climbers got to the top from October 4 to 6....
Cordillera Vilcanota. Syuzi Tateyama and I climbed Campa I (5480 meters, 17,979 feet) on May 18 after placing Base Camp near Pucacocha. We were turned back by unstable snow on the south face of Tinki. On May 25 we climbed Parcocaya (5290 meters, 1...
Baffin Island. The Alpine Club of Canada sponsored a three-week camp on Cumberland Peninsula. Organized by P. D. Baird, the 21 members flew from Montreal to Frobisher Bay on July 30 and then, by charter flying boat, to the head of Pangnirtung Fjor...
Monte Francés and Other Peaks, Grahamland. Sponsored by the Instituto Antártico Chileno an expedition of 19 climbers and scientists participated in the 18th Antarctic campaign that this institute carried out in the southern summer of 1981-2. The O...
North Continental Tower, Little Sandy Buttresses. Near the head of the Little Sandy Valley is what appears to be a trio of impressive towers on the Divide to the east. Fred Beckey and Bob Stevenson named the central, highest one Continental Tower ...
Kailas, Brahmaur. An Indo-Japanese Ladies Expedition climbed Kailas (18,556 feet), which lies about 30 miles east of Chamba and 25 miles west of Mukar Beh. The leader was Miss Nandini M. Patel and the other Indian ladies were Dr. Meena Agarwal, Ko...
Winter Climbs, 1983-4. In February of 1984, Jim Knight and I climbed a prominent new 3-pitch waterfall, Cream Sickle, located just below Timpanogos Cave in American Fork Canyon. The crux was a 50-foot thin hollow pillar of ice plastered to an over...
Churen Himal South. On April 29 South Korean Kim Ho Sup and Sherpa Rin Sing Angyal left Camp VI at 21,650 feet and made the first ascent of Churen Himal South (24,184 (?) feet). The expedition was led by Kim Jung Sup and left Pokhara on April 9 an...
Sierra Nevada, California: (1) Half Dome (Yosemite National Park). On 19 June 1948 Chalmer J. Groff (19) and a friend, both National Park Service employees, off duty, were descending below the face of Half Dome, in sneakers. Groff slipped on a mos...
FALL ON ROCKWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn November 7, 1981, about 11:30 a.m., Jeff Oimoen (25) came to Park Headquarters and asked for help. He said he was climbing on the South Shore and fell. He had severe burns on all of his fingers and ...
Nanga Parbat, New Route, Solo. Only three months after his ascent of Mount Everest, Reinhold Messner stood on the top of his fifth 8000- meter summit. This time he had made a new route on Nanga Parbat, solo from beginning to end. With a liaison of...
Spyglass Group, Lardeau Range. Two outlying peaks of the Spyglass group were climbed by William C. Fix and Terry Beck on July 29 and 30. Approach from the Lardeau River was made via Tenderfoot Creek. Turning south from the creek the climbers ascen...
Mount Cowan, Absaroka Range, 1985. In August 1984 Curt Vogel and Lisa Schassberger climbed the first four pitches of a route on the most prominent buttress of Mount Cowan as seen from Elbow Lake. Due to a lack of time, they could not finish the ro...
Salt Spring Reservoir Area. The rock wall on the north side of the canyon about a mile west of Salt Springs Dam has yielded two enjoyable routes. In May, Walt Vennum and I climbed the Gully Cat. The route lies in the classic left-facing open-book ...
LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEUtah, Storm MountainOn July 16, 1983, a group of Boy Scouts, led by Don Jorgenson (36), hiked up to Stairs Gulch in Big Cottonwood Canyon to do some glissading. Jorgenson lost c...
Serpent’s Head, Orizaba. On January 10, from the hut on the west side of Orizaba, Wink Barrons and I made a new route by the rightmost (southernmost) waterfall on the cliff below the Sarcófago. We soloed three rope-lengths at the bottom of the rou...