Camp 4, Celebration. This gathering was one of the finest occasions ever held in Yosemite. After several years of rumors and heated discussions about nearby construction changes that would have altered our walk-in climbers’ camp beyond recognition...
LOSS OF CONTROL ON VOLUNTARY GLISSADE—Washington, Mt. Rainier. On February 13, party leader Jerry Hasfjord (40), Paul Neilsen (23), Jack Wilkins (55), and Dan Lepeska (21) left the Tahoma Creek Campground for a climb of Success Cleaver. If the cli...
McGee Spire, Tombstone Range. In early August Dave Craft, Al DeMaria, Claude Suhl and I made a brief visit to the McGee Lake region, east and north of Dawson City. On August 5, Suhl and I climbed the spire which stands west of Mount McGee. Followi...
Cloud Dancers, Portraits of North American Mountaineers. Jonathan Waterman, editor. The American Alpine Club Press, Golden, Colorado, 1993. 323 pages. $16.95.Jonathan Waterman’s editorial claim that “the most influential mountaineers, as well as s...
Four Ascents in the Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier. Some ten miles southeast of Denali lie the Ruth Amphitheater and the Great Gorge. Here rise Mount Huntington, the Moose’s Tooth, Dan Beard and the peaks of the Great Gorge.* The peaks of the Rut...
Mount Deborah, West Face, A Third New Route. Though virgin summits are fast disappearing, new routes are everywhere and the aura of Alaska retains its remoteness. Remoteness and grandeur increase challenge and reward. A high-mountain bivouac which...
Gasherbrum II East, first ascent from China. On June 12, after two days by jeep from Kashgar to Mazar, we started our approach to base camp with 40 camels. On some of the river crossings during our trek to the Gasherbrum Glacier, the water reached...
Burkett, Kates Needle and Other Ascents, Stikine Icefield. The Scottish- Canadian Coast Range Expedition finally consisted of Norman Harthill, John Denton, David Wessel, Kenneth Bryan, George Liddle, Edward Thompson and myself as leader. The area ...
TWO giant volcanoes, one extinct and the other in the heyday of violent activity, were still fascinating the imagination of Ecuadorians, when in 1927 the author led a zoological expedition to the country that straddles the equator. One of them had...
Torre del Parón and La Esfinge. The granite formations of the Parón Valley offer the best granite climbing of the Cordillera Blanca but have suffered from misinformation in the past. An article earlier in this journal gives an overview of their hi...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The summer of 1964 saw H.M.C. members mountaineering in a dozen ranges in at least three continents. Undergraduates took part in five different expeditions in the Western Hemisphere. One of them, Hank Abrons, joined Gr...
The World’s Great Mountains: Not the Height You ThinkTerris MooreIt has been little noted, except perhaps by geophysicists and mountaineers, that Mount Everest is not, if absolute methods of measurement are used, the highest mountain in the world....
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Another expedition led by Dr. Karl M. Herrligkoffer returned to and climbed the 13,000-foot-high Diamir (northwest) face of Nanga Parbat (26,600 feet), where they had made a brilliant reconnaissance to 23,450 feet in 196...
Twice as NiceThe all~free ascent of two El Capitan routes in a single day.Tommy CaldwellSunday, October 30, 2005I’m strolling nervously to the base of the Nose with Beth and her dad, who will carry my shoes and empty water bottle back to the car. ...
Louise Boyd Land, Various Activity. Team Members Helen Bostock, Andrew Bostock, Matt Tinsley, Dave Mills and Neal Hockley were in the field (centered on 73°30' N, 28°00' W) from July 2-August 26. The majority of the climbing was done during July, ...
New England Section. On March 6 the Section hosted its first “Old Timers Day” on the ice and in the rain at Willey’s Slide at Crawford Notch, New Hampshire, displaying and using ancient garb and ice gear from the 1970s and earlier: 10-point crampo...
1951-19971998Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta38311284213128British Columbia260103579409Yukon Territory332673000Ontario33861000Quebec29862000East Arcti...
Mt. Stuart is a Cascades icon, featuring 3,000' climbs on excellent stone or dependable ice. I’d assumed its major faces and ridges had been completed, until I saw photos of an unclimbed 1,000' buttress towering over the glacier, between Stuart Pa...
The Last Hero: Bill Tilman. Tim Madge. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1995. Cloth, 288 pages. $24.95.Bill Tilman’s books are durable steerages through the most remote tempests on the planet. His two anthologies, The Seven Mountain Travel Books and The...
Mt. Bradley, East Ridge, attempt. Jay Rowe and I went into the Ruth Gorge during the last week in June 2002. We first repeated the Orgler route on the west face of Hüttenturm, a fantastic moderate 12-pitch climb done in T-shirts under blue skies. ...