Manaslu. Our reconnaissance party to Manaslu of three members under the leadership of Ohara has returned from Nepal, reporting the successful settlement of the trouble which caused the 1954 party to give up the climb of Manaslu when the Sama villa...
Split Peak, North Face. The north face of the previously unclimbed east summit of Split Peak (9610 feet) was climbed by Jim States and me during the Memorial Day holiday. We approached from the north by canoe, bushwhack and knee-deep snow to camp ...
Harrison Smith and Lotus Flower Tower, Logan Mountains. Paola Fanton, Giuseppe Bagattoli, Danny Zampiccoli, Fabio Leoni and I traveled north to Watson Lake and were flown by float plane on July 3 to Glacier Lake. Four hours on foot took us into th...
Central Tien Shan, Overview. The weather during the 1998 season in the Central Tien-Shan (Khan-Tengri/Pobeda region), typified by a lot of snow and storm, was extremely terrible. Peak Pobeda was climbed by only a few groups; one of them, from Japa...
FALL ON ROCK (2), NO HARD HATCalifornia, Joshua Tree National Park, Hidden ValleyAbout 4:00 p.m. on March 15, Curtis “Woody” Stark (67) and Alfred Kuok (44) were climbing in an area near the Hidden Valley nature trail. The trail is a popular desti...
Everest, North Face Attempt. Our team was composed of five women: Stacy Allison, Evelyn Lees, Liz Nichols, Melly Reuling and Mimi Stone*, and ten men: Q. Belk, Dr. David Black, Peter Goldman, Michael Graber, Wes Krause, Bob McConnell, George Schun...
Staunings Alps, East Greenland. The Österreichischer Alpenverein sent an expedition to Greenland under the leadership of Hans Gsellmann consisting of the Austrians Hermann Köllensperger, Matthias Koglbauer, Sepp Huber, Gerhard Fuchs, and Kurt Gilg...
Dhaulagiri Autumn Attempts. Five expeditions attempted to climb the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri. None of them was successful. Six Spaniards led by Ignacio Olaizola reached 6500 meters on September 21. Three Frenchmen and a Spaniard led by Alain ...
Lasontay, Cordillera Huaytapallana, 1973. Having already climbed in the Cordilleras Blanca and Vilcabamba (see above), on August 6, 1973 Fiut, Guzzy and Malinowski made the first ascent of the west ridge of Lasontay Sur or Yuracrumi (18,230 feet) ...
Jaonli Attempt. From September 14 to November 6, we attempted the unclimbed east side of Jaonli (6632 meters, 21,760 feet). British members were Richard Brooke, Jim Milledge, Mike Westmacott and I, Irish members were Joss Lynam and Paddy O’Leary a...
Chaukhamba. There were several expeditions to the Garhwal Himalayas in 1952. The most notable was the French party which climbed Chaukhamba, 23,420 feet, in the Gangotri group. The mountain had previously been attempted unsuccessfully by the Austr...
Toshain II. On August 12 a Mountain Travel group in the Mazeno Pass area made the first ascent of 19,500-foot Toshain II, 10½ miles southwest of Nanga Parbat, above the Toshain Glacier, on the south side of the Rupal Nallah. We started from Gilgit...
Everest 1935-36Permission for a renewed attempt on the world’s highest mountain was granted last year but came too late to put a group in the field in time for a spring attempt before the monsoon. It was felt, however, that in order to leave the w...
Mount Logan. Dan Dobbins and Bob Carlson climbed the main peak of Mount Logan on July 5 while Chris Hoepker and Colin Fuller climbed the west peak. They ascended via King Col.
Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick. We were seven climbers (Ben Masterson, Didi Langen, H.M. Gotz, Walter Obergolser, Heli Gargitter, Stefan Glowacz and myself). We started the climbing on July 3 and arrived on top July 20. We had fixed ropes all the way t...
EXCEEDING ABILITIES, ASCENDING TOO SLOWLY, EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIA, FROSTBITE, WEATHERWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeAbout 2000 on May 1, 1992, the park received a message from the emergency radio located at Camp Muir from the summit. The c...
FALL ON SNOW – FALLING ICE SHEET KNOCKED CLIMBER OFF, CLIMBING UNROPEDOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn June 9, Meredith Jacques (30) was ascending the Southside Route with 11 others. They were at the 10,000-foot level near the summit rocks when a “...
Appalachian Mountain Club. The AMC continued its program of training in rock climbing and mountaineering. However, both large chapters (Boston and New York) made efforts to limit the participants in an effort to slow the influx of people into tech...
P 6120, Near the Devils Thumb, Southeastern Alaska. On May 18 Curt Olson and I climbed P 6120, one of the prominent peaks east of the junction of the Baird Glacier and the Witch’s Cauldron near the Devils Thumb. The climb involved about 3000 feet ...
Moro Rock, El Niño. Grant Gardner, Jody Pennycook and I completed a new route on the east face of Moro Rock in Sequoia National Park during an extended Veteran’s Day weekend. Three and a half days were spent on El Niño (V 5.10 A3+). This nine-pitc...