Manaslu, First Tibetan Ascent. On May 3 and 4 a band of eight strong Tibetans (led by Samdruk) who spend their lives on the high Tibetan Plateau needed no artificial oxygen at all to succeed in the first attempt on Manaslu by Tibetans or any other...
Power Dome, Alternative Energy. In 1984, Val Licon and I climbed a five-pitch route on the face between Helm’s Deep and Solar Energy. After face climbing to the right side of a flake, we climbed to the left side and followed a white dike up and le...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Baxter s Pinnacle. On 15 August Herb Swedlund, Bob Fenichel, Charles Joyce, Mike Edesess, and Peter Keller were descending in that order through the loose gully to the west of Baxter’s Pinnacle. Although Swedlun...
Central Utah Ice Climbs. Several new ice climbs of high quality were done in January and February of 1987. These were located in Straight Creek Canyon, near Orangeville. Easy access via a maintained road and steep ice in a sandstone setting are in...
Touchstone Wall, first free ascent. The free climbing season in Zion started off with a bang, as Rob Pizem and I freed the last holdout of the trinity of classic Zion big walls. Moonlight Buttress fell in 1992, Spaceshot in 2005, and finally the T...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Jasper National Park, Roche à PerdrixOn October 26, at 0700 J.H. (28) and M.L. (42) set out to climb the Diagonal Route on the west face of Roche à Perdrix. At 1100, they reached the summit and began a rappel down the Chimney ...
FRANK G. WELLS1932-1994Frank G. Wells was tragically killed on April 3, 1994 in a helicopter crash in the Ruby Mountains of Nevada. In the same accident, the well known female climber Beverly Johnson, Yosemite climber Paul Scannell and the pilot D...
Ama Dablam, Winter Ascent. A South Korean expedition composed of three climbers made a remarkably rapid winter ascent of Ama Dablam. They were away from Kathmandu for only 15 days! They used no Sherpas. Three camps were established on the south ri...
Southeast Section. Despite geographic and demographic obstacles, 2007 witnessed a significant renaissance in AAC activity in the Southeast Section. Historically, development of a sense of AAC community within the Southeast has proven difficult. Th...
Ama Dablam, Southwest Ridge. An international expedition was led by Renato Moro with the help of two guides Franco Girodo and me, who fixed rope on the route. In October the first climbers could not succeed because of very bad weather. Fortunately...
FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS–HANDHOLD CAME OFF, FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Wind River Range, Jackson PeakOn August 11 about 1100, Bev Boynton (51) and David Moore of Jackson, WY, were finishing the final pitch on the South Buttress of Jackson Peak in the Wind ...
Antarctic Peninsula, Various Activity. In January, 1999, an Australian expedition aboard the yacht Tiama accomplished some of the most notable climbing in the Antarctic Peninsula in a number of years. Kieran Lawton, Julie Styles, Geoff Moore, Roby...
Meeting the Mammals, by Victor H. Cahalane. 8 vo., ix + 133 pages, with 52 illustrations from drawings. New York: The Macmillan Co., 1943. Price $1.75.Those interested in wild life will find this one of the most useful and interesting books that h...
Mount McKinley, South Buttress-Thayer Basin-West Buttress Traverse. Jim Carpenter, Greg Kallio, Bill Laxson, Steve Lyford, Jim Miller, Dick Morse, Jeff Thomas and I began on June 18, traveling up the Kahiltna’s East Fork. After a few avalanche sca...
FALL ON ROCK WHILE DESCENDING Colorado, FlatironsOn May 10,1986, a female climber (23) had completed a fifth class route called Friday’s Folly on the third Flatiron in Boulder, when she slipped and fell during her descent down the third class gul...
Rakaposhi. Our objective was to climb the 10-mile-long difficult southwest ridge of Rakaposhi, previously climbed only by Mike Banks and Tom Patey in 1958. Poles and Japanese had also reached the summit in 1979 but by different routes. On July 2 w...
Mexico: (2) Popocatepetl volcano (17,887 ft.). On 3 September 1950 a large rock avalanche swept away a group of 25 climbers who were making a climb under the auspices of the Alpine Federation. Two members of the party were killed immediately while...
P c.1400. In late November, Steve Hayward, Chilean José Muriez and I completed a new trekking route, leaving the Río Ascencio via a steep glaciated pass northwest of the Japanese Camp. We climbed steep, unstable avalanche debris on the right side ...
Diran Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Jaume Anglada, Miquel Serrat, Joan Sola, Xevi Robiró R., Xevi Roviró A. Josep Rovira, Joan Colet and me as leader. We had hoped to complete a new route up the north ridge, previously attempted by Spaniard...
Beyond the High Himalayas, by William O. Douglas. 352 pages, with 16 Kodachromes and 26 black and white photographs by the author. Garden City, N. Y.: Doubleday & Company, 1952. Price, $5.00.Justice Douglas is outstandingly a good traveller an...