FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED Colorado, Fern CanyonOn March 24, 1986, two climbers were down-climbing a mid fifth class section of Seal Rock in the Fern Canyon area of Bouder when one slipped and fell. Neither was roped at the time. The victim wa...
Disteghil Sar South, Disteghil Sar East and Yazghil Dome North. My 14th expedition set off from Nagar on July 3 with 81 porters. We had to pay the porters 90 rupees (about $7) per day plus food and clothing. They moved very slowly. Instead of two-...
Mexico: (1) Ixtaccihuatl (17,743 ft.). On 4 November 1950 rescue brigades found one man dead and two other persons injured among a group of ten mountain climbers (members of the Club Alpino), who were climbing to make arrangements for a Mass to be...
Aguja Saint Exupéry, South Buttress, Fitz Roy Region. After the climbs in the Paine Towers, on December 6 Argentine Sebastián de la Cruz and I camped on the glacier right below the Aguja Saint Exupéry. We intended to climb the Metzeltin-Buscaini r...
Diran and Rakaposhi Ascents and Tragedy. There were three groups in this region in July and August, two smaller private parties and ours of the Upper Austria Alpine School. I was the leader of the Diran Group and Edi Koblmüller was the Rakaposhi l...
Nepal Himalaya, by H. W. Tilman. XI + 272 pages, including maps and illustrations. Cambridge: University Press, $4.75.This volume is an account of three trips across Nepal, all through hitherto unknown territory — unknown, that is, to white men. O...
Ganesh Himal. Under the leadership of the Swiss Raymond Lambert, a Franco-Swiss expedition succeeded in climbing 24,298-foot Ganesh Himal on October 24, 1955. The climbers, Swiss Eric Gauchat, Claude Morel, and Pierre Vittoz, and French Mme. Claud...
Mount Fay. I made a solo ascent via the glacier and ice couloirs of the north face on August 26, including a route variation through the cornice at the top of the face. I descended the north glacier route. The round trip from Moraine Lake took fiv...
Slesse Mountain, East Pillar Direct. From August 29 to 31, Perry Beckham and I completed a new rock route on the east side of Slesse Mountain. Beckham, Barry Blanchard and I had climbed the first third of the route in the fall of 1992. It begins u...
Dzhungaria Ala-Tau, Various Ascents. It was reported that British guide Nick Parks traveled to the rarely visited Dzhungaria (Dzhungarskiy) Ala-Tau, a range that straddles the Kazakhstan- Chinese border, in August with a group of school children. ...
AVALANCHECalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Half DomeOn Sunday, March 15, an experienced South Korean mountain climber Jun Ho Wang (38) was on his way down for more supplies to support his team’s winter attempt on Half Dome when he was swept more...
Everest Attempt. Between August 13 and 17 our team arrived at the Rongbuk Base Camp at 17,000 feet, hoping to climb the traditional East Rongbuk-North Col route. Base Camp had the appearance of an international camp with teams from Australia, Brit...
New route on Jaegervasstid. William Briggs and three companions made the first ascent of the southwest ridge of Jaegervasstid, on the Lyngen Peninsula, in June 1957. The climb took 14 hours.
Dhaulagiri Attempts. Argentines led by Raúl Uranga failed to climb Dhaulagiri by the northeast ridge, getting to 7100 meters on April 10. Catalans Carles Galàn, Jaume Ganges and Luis Giner also attempted to climb Dhaulagiri by the same ridge. Thei...
Huagaruncho, Northeast Ridge. The Workers’ Mountain Club of Takamatsu Expedition was composed of Hideaki Naoi, leader, Akira Yamada, Hiroshi Kuriyama, Tomomi Akiyama (female), Yoshiki Mitsumoto (female), Kazuhiro Oka and Masao Hashimoto. Leaving H...
Jogin I and II. A Japanese expedition climbed Jogin I (6465 meters, 21,210 feet) on August 19 when leader Jushichiro Otsubo, Mrs. Yachiyo Yamanaka, Mrs. Kimiko Yamashita, Yukio Shiozawa, Hideaki Nara and Mrs. Kieko Tezuka reached the top. On Augus...
Saser Kangri I and IV, 1988. The 144 kilometers from Leh to Panamik were covered by Army trucks via the highest road in the world; this crosses the Khardung La at 18,380 feet. Base Camp at 15,500 feet was set up on July 19, 1988 after a two-day tr...
Cho Oyu. A strong British party failed in its pre-monsoon attempt on Cho Oyu, 26,750 feet, in Nepal, only about eighteen miles from Mt. Everest. Under the leadership of Eric Shipton, the group consisted of the Canadian Campbell Secord, three New Z...
Malubiting Group, Karakoram. The members of the expedition of the Bologna section of the Italian Alpine Club were Dr. Achille Poluzzi, Lino Bortolami, Silvano Fusaro, Gianpaolo Nann, Guerrino Sacchin, Nando Stagni and I as leader. We hoped to reco...
A sign that the Himalayas are becoming a climbing group adaptable to small parties was the fine attempt on Peak K 36 in the Saltoro Range of the Karakorum. A party consisting of James Waller, Dr. J. S. Carslaw, Rowland Brotherhood and John Hunt wi...