Book Reviews AAJ
Rock Climbs of Indian Cove

Rock Climbs of Indian Cove, 74 pages, $8.95; Rock Climbs of Lost Horse Valley, 92 pages, $8.95; Rock Climbs of Hidden Valley, 108 pages, $9.95. All by Alan Bartlett, 1992. Topos. Quail Springs Publishing, PO Box 240, Joshua Tree, CA 92252.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Maria Lloco and Huayna Potosí

Maria Lloco and Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. On July 31 Karl Collins, Ross Macfarlane and I climbed Maria Lloco (5639 meters, 18,500 feet) by its east ridge. On August 3 Macfarlane and I completed the ascent of the west ridge of Huayna Potosí (...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Mt. McKinley, Cassin Ridge, Ascent and Update

Mt. McKinley, Cassin Ridge, Ascent and Update. Fredrick Wilkinson and I, both 20, made an ascent of the Cassin Ridge over June 2-3. This report is an update of the hanging serac on the route at approximately 14,200 feet. In years past, it has been...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Wyoming, Tetons

FALL ON SNOWWyoming, TetonsOn July 9 at 2 p.m., while attempting to climb up beside Spalding Falls to the top, Stacey Grode slipped on the snowslope and fell down into the moat of the falls. She came to rest between the snow and rock in the water....


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Utah, Diamond Fork

FALL ON ROCKUtah, Diamond ForkOn May 8, we were paged out at 1730 for a fall victim, still hanging from his rope, in Diamond Fork Canyon.When I arrived on scene the boy (victim) was sitting in a car. Dick asked me to check him out, but the boy did...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma Rescue, Ascent to Central Summit and New Route

Shisha Pangma Rescue, Ascent to Central Summit and New Route. Frenchmen Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Dominique Caillat were among the many expeditions in the post-monsoon on Shisha Pangma. After a medical problem at the start, Lafaille recovered a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Towers in Canyonlands National Park

Towers in Canyonlands National Park. On a Wingate formation at the head of Taylor Canyon, 250 feet from Moses, Ron Olevsky made the first ascent of Traracian Mare solo (III, 5.6, A3). He also made the first ascent (5.7) of the largest dome north o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu, Ascent

Manaslu, Ascent. After her Pumori and Lhotse ascents (see below), Chantai Mauduit flew by helicopter to the foot of Manaslu and with one Sherpa, Ang Tshering, attacked her third Himalayan mountain of the season, here too following the standard rou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cherubim Dome, South Buttress, Archangel California, Sierra Nevada, Sequoia National Park

In mid October Dick Leversee and I climbed an unnamed but prominent pyramidal dome north of Upper Hamilton Lake in the Sequoia backcountry. Avoiding drilling as much as possible, we picked a line up a series of flakes and cracks on the nearly feat...

| Published 1985 | Author E.C. Joe


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Helmet Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Practice Cliffs

On August 10, Paul Ramer and I were climbing in separate parties on the practice cliffs near Hidden Falls in Cascade Canyon. Ramer, standing on a talus slope about 200 feet below me, wore an aluminum hard hat, while my helmet was a mesh-reinforced...

| Published 1963 | Author Robert Fenichel


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Canyonlands National Park

Canyonlands National Park. A free climbing permit is now required in both Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. Druid Arch's south leg, east side, was climbed solo on February 7 and 8 by Paul Midkiff. This arch is in the Needles district of the p...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Thunderbird Wall, First Free Ascent

Thunderbird Wall, first free ascent. Michael Anderson and Rob Pizem made the first free ascent, with variations, of one of Zion’s biggest routes, the Thunderbird Wall (16 pitches, VI 5.13- R). Both climbers led or followed every pitch free over Ma...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Alberta, Banff National Park, Lake Louise, Back of the Lake Crag, Scared Peaches

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTAlberta, Banff National Park, Lake Louise, Back of the Lake Crag, Scared PeachesOn October 19, D.W. (24) was leading Scared Peaches, a 5.12a mixed-gear route on the Air Voyage Wall at the Back of the Lake Crag ar...


In Memoriam AAJ
Jill Claggett, 1957-1994

JILL CLAGGETT1957-1994Jill Claggett was fatally injured in a climbing accident in Prescott, Arizona on October 11. She fell a little before noon while leading a climb in the Granite Dells. Only about 20 feet up when she fell, her last piece of pro...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam. A guided French expedition of thirteen climbers was led by Raymond Renaud. A total of ten climbers and two Sherpas went to the summit via the south ridge in five successive days, November 5 to 9. The leader reached the summit on each d...


Club Activities AAJ
Blue Ridge Section

Blue Ridge Section. Section events in 2007 included a number of slideshows held at the Rhodeside Tavern in Arlington, Virginia. Dimitry Shapovalov gave two very interesting talks about climbing in Russia and Central Asia, with expeditions to the P...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Tawoche Winter Ascent and Tragedy

Tawoche Winter Ascent and Tragedy, 1986. This joint expedition was led by Korean Oh In-Hwan. They climbed the southeast face to the southeast ridge, the same route as that of the Japanese in the spring of 1985. They were really two separate teams....


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Table Mountain

FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Table MountainOn August 8, Don Rassler reported that his climbing partner, Ben Goodwin (22), had fallen about 10-20 feet while down-climbing the first pitch of Heartbreak Ridge on Table Mountain arou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Overview of Mountaineering Objectives

Antarctica, Overview of Mountaineering Objectives. In an article that appears earlier in this journal, Antarctic climbing chronologist Damien Gildea offers up an overview of mountaineering objectives that updates and complements the excellent arti...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Tatra Mountains

The Tatra Mountains, by V. A. Firsoff, 8 vo.; 128 pages, with 65 illustrations from photographs and a sketch-map. London: Lindsay Drummond, 1942. Price 10/6.This is the first book in the English language dealing with the Tatra, the alpine portion ...