Laila Peak, First Ascent. Our German team of five made the first ascent of Laila Peak (5971m) in the Rupal Valley. (This peak should not be confused with the famous Laila Peak in Hushe Valley.) The peak is situated at the right end of the Rupal Va...
Mountaineering : A Solace to Sedate Old AgeJOHN H. STRONGTHERE are more mountaineers, actual and potential, scattered over the country than most of us realize. They are popping up continually. Most of these feel frustrated as they see youth vanish...
Alpinisme Anecciotique, by Charles Gos. 8 vo., pp. 320. Neuchatel: Attinger, 1934. Price Fr. 3.50.Here is a volume that should prove a welcome addition to the library of every mountain lover, whether or not he has ever set foot upon the Alps. Here...
Kichatna Spire, Black Crystal Arête. Chad Kellogg and I completed a new route (to the summit) on Kichatna Spire (8,985') in the remote Kichatna Mountains. The Black Crystal Arête (3,000', 5.10 A2) climbs the striking south ridge of the spire, and ...
At 4 a.m. on September 30, I (Tom Randall—22) started up Eagle’s Way, VI 5.8 A3, on El Cap, in an attempt to break the solo record. I had checked the weather with the rangers at the Wilderness Center and was given, “...sunny for the next two days,...
Rocky Mountain OctopussyJeff LoweTHE FROZEN WATERFALLS on the limestone cliff bands east of Vail, Colorado have, over the years, provided ice climbers with a playground and laboratory on which to improve old skills and, occasionally, to develop ne...
BENNET BRONSON1887-1950Bennet Bronson, a member of the American Alpine Club since 1931, died in Waterbury, Connecticut, on 23 November 1950. A graduate of the Taft School and of Yale (1909), he was with the Oakville Company, which manufacturers me...
Huascarán, Pisco, Attempt on Huandoy. On June 22 the German Alfred Sänger and I left Camp III at 17,4000 for the summit of Huascarán. The day before we had tried to reach the top by way of the Garganta but had to give up because of deep snow. On o...
Washington, Mt. Adams. On 17 September a Mazama Club group led by Lisle Walker (51) and consisting of eight others set out to climb Mt. Adams after having camped overnight at Mirror Lake. They left the camp site at about 3:15 a.m. At the bottom of...
Diran, Hunza, Second Ascent and Tragedy. Our eight-man expedition was a light-weight one. We went up the new Karakoram Highway and on June 24 arrived in Minapin, where we contracted 44 porters. Despite porter problems, we established Base Camp on ...
The Oxygen IllusionPerspectives on the business of high-altitude climbingby Anatoli Boukreevtranslated by Natasha LagovskayaDuring the first attempts to summit the 8000-meter peaks, it was generally believed humans could not ascend the heights wit...
Northern Lindbergh Mountains, first ascents. On June 22 British climbers, John Booth, Brian Combs, Richard Denison, Ian Jones, Dominic Matters, and I departed Akureyri airport, Iceland, in a reserve Twin Otter, the normal plane at that time being ...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1990. Heavy winter snows, volcanic ash deposits, near record numbers of climbers, few accidents and generally good weather summarizes the 1990 mountaineering season in the Alaska Range. Rec...
Alberta, Mt. Robson. On 28 July about 12 noon, two members (David Brown (38) and Donald Liska (37) of a party of four (other members George Bell and Michael Williams) were hit by a wet snow avalanche while descending the Northeast or Kain Face of ...
Makalu Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Gino Baccanelli, Battistino Bonali, Giuseppe Buila, Giancarlo Domenighini, Giovanni Ducoli, Dr. Sandro Ghitti, Guiglielmo Guzza, Franco Solina and me as leader. We arrived at Base Camp at 5280 meters on ...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. Membership and intensity of interest continue to grow as the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club enters its 60th year. Today the club spans a gamut of experience levels and interests. As a result, D.M.C. climbers can be fo...
FUEL BOTTLE EXPLOSION IN TENT-BURNSAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 16, Steve Whitney (34) and Ben Krasnow (29), Alpine Ascents International Guides, were cooking dinner for their clients at basecamp when one of the two MSR Whisperlite...
Pamiagdluk Island, The Baroness, second ascent of Venus Envy; Prins Christian Sund, Igdlorssuit Havn, repeat ascents and new routes. Sarah Whitehouse and I again visited the Cape Farewell region of South Greenland. We first landed at Pamiagdluk Is...
Switzerland’s Bregaglia in 1951DON M. WOODSOne of Switzerland’s finest granite climbing areas is Val Bregaglia or, as it is known in German, the Bergell. There are three climbing huts on the north (Swiss) side of the Bregaglia Group, the Forno, th...
Quvnerit Island, various ascents. This was my third trip to Greenland. In 2001, with Gabor Berecz, Gunter Dengler, and Thomas Tivadar, Id established a 1,000m big wall route on Pamiagdluk Island. In 2004 I found enthusiastic companions for an expl...