New Variants on the East Ridge of the Grand Teton and on Teepe’s Pillar. Yves Erikson and William Briggs made a new variant on the long east ridge of the Grand Teton in early August. After a 4:15 A.M. start from Amphitheater Lake, they climbed unr...
Drohmo and Janak. On April 13, a small Anglo-American-Nepalese expedition established Base Camp on the summer yak pastures of Lhonak (4650m), the site normally used for the penultimate overnight camp on the trek in to Kangchenjunga’s North Side Ba...
Agujas Walicho and Kenko, first ascents. In early March 2007 Chileans Tomas Marusic (from Punta Arenas), Jaime Sapunar (from Puerto Natales), and I climbed two towers between Cerro Blanco Sur and Cordon Olguin in the northwest corner of the Torres...
“Paradox Peak,” Farnham Group. On July 25 John Jeglum, Doug Martin and I left Toby Creek road near its junction with Jumbo Creek at about 4500 feet for 9810-foot “Paradox Peak,” the southernmost of the Farnham group. For 3½ hours we followed a fa...
Kara-su Valley, Pik 4,810, first winter ascents and Russian Piolet d’Or. Three teams arrived in the Kara-su during the winter, planning to attempt routes on the stupendous 1,200m northwest face of Pik 4,810 (Pik Boston, 4,810m) and hoping to win f...
Minya Konka. The Chinese report the second ascent of Minya Konka, which was first climbed by our members Terris Moore and the late Richard Burdsall, supported by Arthur B. Emmons III and Jack Young. Six members of the 29-man Chinese expedition, in...
Management of Wilderness and Environmental Emergencies. Paul S. Auerbach and Edward C. Geehr, editors. Macmillan Publishing Company, New York, 1983. 656 pages, illustrated. $68.00.Weighing in at over four pounds, and written in medispeak, this is ...
Ak Saitan. After a difficult journey through Kyrgyzstan in August, Iñaki Cabo, Elena de Castro, Ferran Latorre, and I finally arrive at base camp on the Komarova Glacier. The potential of the area is immense. One formation in particular draws our ...
On July 1, the same day that the Svihalek brothers put up Stay Cool, Filip Zaoral and I climbed the huge corner system on the left side of the south face of Rundtinden. This nine-pitch (400m) route, climbed in four hours using only nuts and cams f...
FALL INTO CREVASSE—PRECEEDED BY OTHER INCIDENTS Washington, Glacier PeakOn September 3, 1988, a party of five Seattle Mountaineers started out for a three-day Labor Day climb of Glacier peak via the Vista Glacier. There were nine of us, three rope...
Commando Climber, by Mike Banks. 240 pages, 18 photos, sketches. London: J. M. Dent & Sons Ltd., 1955. Price, 18 s.The author is a captain of the Royal Marines who served with the 3rd Commando Brigade in Burma during the last war, and then ret...
Iowa Mountaineers. During the past year there was an increasing indication that the club is changing from a university and Iowa organization to one with a majority of its members living in other states, especially Minnesota, Wisconsin, Illinois, M...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN1951152211319523135171319532427121219543141318195534392861956467254131957455328181958323923111959422562310192196047464123781941961499611445101441962711901640191...
First Traverse of the Howser Spires, BugaboosDouglas R. TompkinsThe two exceptional companions whom Yvon Chouinard and I had on our successful traverse of the towers of the Howser Spires in the Bugaboos this past summer, Eric Rayson and Jock Lang,...
STRANDED - INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn September 3,, a male (29) and female (30) climbed The Yellow Spur (5.9/5.10) on Redgarden Wall. When the climbers topped- out, they asked the party just ahead of them (the secon...
Toro Peak, south face; Point JAMES, Australian route, second ascent. Elizabeth Fredell and I climbed two routes in the Miyar. On Toro we repeated the first few pitches of the 2008 López- Pfaff Direttissima, as far as the diagonal trough, rating th...
FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE, WEATHER, INADEQUATE CLOTHING ANDEQUIPMENTAlaska, Mount McKinleyVictor Pomerantsev (52) departed June 12,1994, for a solo climb of the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. He climbed quickly, arriving at the 16,200 foot level on Ju...
Some Mountain StampsJoel E. FisherTHE writer, being a collector of stamps, suggested to the Editor that other readers, too, might be interested in stamps which carry mountain views, hence this number’s frontispiece.At the top will be seen two of t...
CRAMPON PROBLEM, INEXPERIENCE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 8, the “Love Mountain and Beer” party of three Japanese climbers flew in to climb the West Buttress. They reached the summit on June 21 at 1620 in very good weather conditi...
Nameless Pyramid, East Face, Direct Finish. The East Face of Nameless Pyramid (5.8) is a popular backcountry route, often done car-to-car in a long day. In July, Eric Tipton and I climbed the route, doing two new final pitches. From the notch on t...