Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, New Variants on the East Ridge of the Grand Teton and on Teepe's Pillar

New Variants on the East Ridge of the Grand Teton and on Teepe’s Pillar. Yves Erikson and William Briggs made a new variant on the long east ridge of the Grand Teton in early August. After a 4:15 A.M. start from Amphitheater Lake, they climbed unr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ganesh Himal, Drohmo and Janak

Drohmo and Janak. On April 13, a small Anglo-American-Nepalese expedition established Base Camp on the summer yak pastures of Lhonak (4650m), the site normally used for the penultimate overnight camp on the trek in to Kangchenjunga’s North Side Ba...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, Agujas Walicho and Kenko, First Ascents

Agujas Walicho and Kenko, first ascents. In early March 2007 Chileans Tomas Marusic (from Punta Arenas), Jaime Sapunar (from Puerto Natales), and I climbed two towers between Cerro Blanco Sur and Cordon Olguin in the northwest corner of the Torres...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, "Paradox Peak," Farnham Group

“Paradox Peak,” Farnham Group. On July 25 John Jeglum, Doug Martin and I left Toby Creek road near its junction with Jumbo Creek at about 4500 feet for 9810-foot “Paradox Peak,” the southernmost of the Farnham group. For 3½ hours we followed a fa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin, Kara-su Valley, Pik 4,810, First Winter Ascents and Russian Piolet d'Or

Kara-su Valley, Pik 4,810, first winter ascents and Russian Piolet d’Or. Three teams arrived in the Kara-su during the winter, planning to attempt routes on the stupendous 1,200m northwest face of Pik 4,810 (Pik Boston, 4,810m) and hoping to win f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Minya Konka

Minya Konka. The Chinese report the second ascent of Minya Konka, which was first climbed by our members Terris Moore and the late Richard Burdsall, supported by Arthur B. Emmons III and Jack Young. Six members of the 29-man Chinese expedition, in...


Book Reviews AAJ
Management of Wilderness and Environmental Emergencies

Management of Wilderness and Environmental Emergencies. Paul S. Auerbach and Edward C. Geehr, editors. Macmillan Publishing Company, New York, 1983. 656 pages, illustrated. $68.00.Weighing in at over four pounds, and written in medispeak, this is ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Ak Saitan

Ak Saitan. After a difficult journey through Kyrgyzstan in August, Iñaki Cabo, Elena de Castro, Ferran Latorre, and I finally arrive at base camp on the Komarova Glacier. The potential of the area is immense. One formation in particular draws our ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Rundtinden, South Face, Mispule Norway, Tromso Region

On July 1, the same day that the Svihalek brothers put up Stay Cool, Filip Zaoral and I climbed the huge corner system on the left side of the south face of Rundtinden. This nine-pitch (400m) route, climbed in four hours using only nuts and cams f...

| Published N/A


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Crevasse—Proceeded by Other Incidents, Washington, Glacier Peak

FALL INTO CREVASSE—PRECEEDED BY OTHER INCIDENTS Washington, Glacier PeakOn September 3, 1988, a party of five Seattle Mountaineers started out for a three-day Labor Day climb of Glacier peak via the Vista Glacier. There were nine of us, three rope...


Book Reviews AAJ
Commando Climber

Commando Climber, by Mike Banks. 240 pages, 18 photos, sketches. London: J. M. Dent & Sons Ltd., 1955. Price, 18 s.The author is a captain of the Royal Marines who served with the 3rd Commando Brigade in Burma during the last war, and then ret...


Club Activities AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers

Iowa Mountaineers. During the past year there was an increasing indication that the club is changing from a university and Iowa organization to one with a majority of its members living in other states, especially Minnesota, Wisconsin, Illinois, M...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN1951152211319523135171319532427121219543141318195534392861956467254131957455328181958323923111959422562310192196047464123781941961499611445101441962711901640191...


Feature Article AAJ
First Traverse of the Howser Spires, Bugaboos

First Traverse of the Howser Spires, BugaboosDouglas R. TompkinsThe two exceptional companions whom Yvon Chouinard and I had on our successful traverse of the towers of the Howser Spires in the Bugaboos this past summer, Eric Rayson and Jock Lang,...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded — Inadequate Equipment, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park

STRANDED - INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn September 3,, a male (29) and female (30) climbed The Yellow Spur (5.9/5.10) on Redgarden Wall. When the climbers topped- out, they asked the party just ahead of them (the secon...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Toro Peak, south Face; Point JAMES, Australian Route, Second Ascent

Toro Peak, south face; Point JAMES, Australian route, second ascent. Elizabeth Fredell and I climbed two routes in the Miyar. On Toro we repeated the first few pitches of the 2008 López- Pfaff Direttissima, as far as the diagonal trough, rating th...


Accident Reports ANAM
Frostbite, Exposure, Weather, Inadequate Clothing and Equipment, Alaska, Mount McKinley

FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE, WEATHER, INADEQUATE CLOTHING ANDEQUIPMENTAlaska, Mount McKinleyVictor Pomerantsev (52) departed June 12,1994, for a solo climb of the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. He climbed quickly, arriving at the 16,200 foot level on Ju...


Feature Article AAJ
Some Mountain Stamps

Some Mountain StampsJoel E. FisherTHE writer, being a collector of stamps, suggested to the Editor that other readers, too, might be interested in stamps which carry mountain views, hence this number’s frontispiece.At the top will be seen two of t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Crampon Problem, Inexperience, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

CRAMPON PROBLEM, INEXPERIENCE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 8, the “Love Mountain and Beer” party of three Japanese climbers flew in to climb the West Buttress. They reached the summit on June 21 at 1620 in very good weather conditi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Nameless Pyramid, East Face, Direct Finish

Nameless Pyramid, East Face, Direct Finish. The East Face of Nameless Pyramid (5.8) is a popular backcountry route, often done car-to-car in a long day. In July, Eric Tipton and I climbed the route, doing two new final pitches. From the notch on t...