First Ascent of Mount HessAlston PaigeMOUNT Hess is one of the four highest mountains in the Hayes Range as seen from Fairbanks, Alaska. Mount Hess (12,030 ft.) and Mount Deborah (12,540 ft.), together, are known as the Cathedral Peaks. From Fairb...
Coming down from Nevado Illimani we encountered a “brujo”— witchdoctor—who had lived his 80 years in the mountain’s shadow. He had spent the previous two nights, at the request of some peasant miners, out somewhere below the glaciers, asking per...
Oktawian Ciez, Jakub Galka, Mariusz Norwecki, Piotr Picheta, Jakub Wrona, and I formed the Krakow High Mountain Club expedition to the Western Kokshaal-too. We wanted to explore Dzhirnagaktu Valley, which lies immediately west of the Kyzyl Asker G...
Kolahoi, Southeast Rib. On June 25, Jan Harris and I made what may have been the first ascent of the southeast rib of Kolahoi. There were nine pitches of difficult mixed snow and rock.Keith Brown
K 5,944m (Korada Peak), first ascent, Bostjan Arcon Memorial Route; Drifika (6,447m), White River Route; Drifika, southeast face attempt; valley rock route, Autobahn to Amsterdam. There are many interesting rock towers and mixed faces in the Nangm...
Cho Oyu Winter Ascent and Tragedy, 1994. The last of the winter expeditions to get to their Base Camp were two Swiss and four Spaniards, who got to the foot of Cho Oyu from Nepal on January 8, 1994. They were not a closely knit party but a collect...
CATHERINE M. FREER 1949–1987“What do you mean?” I imagine Catherine saying, looking over my shoulder while I struggle with writing this. Well, I reply, I want to remind others of our memory of you. It is a fearsome responsibility. “Why do you feel...
Trango Tower, Eternal Flame, all-female ascent; Garda Peak, Karakoram Khush, first free ascent. The female part of the Slovenian expedition reported above comprised Tina Di Batista, Aleksandra Voglar, and I. We definitely provided the spice to the...
DAVID ROSS BROWER1912-2000Cancer claimed David Brower on November 5. During October, in pain and knowing that only weeks were left, he could have gone quietly into the night. But no, he wanted all possible medical assistance until the very end, fo...
The Art of Adventure. Galen Rowell. Collins Publishers, San Francisco, 1989. 166 pages, 127 color photographs. $45.00.There is no doubt that Galen Rowell is one of the great photographers of the world. This is clearly apparent in this new and gorg...
Bhrikuti Sail (6,361m), probable second ascent. On May 14 Mick Chapman, Bryan Fruish, and I (all U.K.), Bett Koch, Liz Armitage, and Peter Allen (all Australia), with Pasang Sherpa, Mingba Sherpa, and Lhakpa Sherpa, made what is probably the secon...
Yosemite Climbing Club. The Yosemite Climbing Club was formed in 1959 for the purpose of bringing together devoted climbers interested in raising the standards of American climbing. Another purpose is to assemble a collection of varied, specialize...
Same Board, Different RulesMichael Kennedy and John Steiger“Gee, in the old days people used aid to make things easier, nowadays they use aid to make things harder.”—Juanita Donini, comment on the debateROCK CLIMBING in the U.S. has been in a stat...
A.A.C., New York Section. The year 1991 was a busy and productive one for the Section. Alpinfilm ’91, a festival of prize-winning mountain films from all over the world, attracted another large and enthusiastic audience to Manhattan’s Florence Gou...
Jopuno, southwest face and west ridge, attempt; history and corrections. In the autumn of 2009 Julie-Ann Clyma and I were back in Western Sikkim and with Hugh Sheehan made an attempt on Jopuno. Although it became cloudy on many afternoons, we did ...
McGinnis Peak, Southeast Ridge. The southeast ridge of McGinnis Peak has acquired a local fame from the very loose rock and corniced knife-edged portion of its lower part. As a member of a four-man party which attempted to gain access to the elusi...
Camp 4, Celebration. This gathering was one of the finest occasions ever held in Yosemite. After several years of rumors and heated discussions about nearby construction changes that would have altered our walk-in climbers’ camp beyond recognition...
LOSS OF CONTROL ON VOLUNTARY GLISSADE—Washington, Mt. Rainier. On February 13, party leader Jerry Hasfjord (40), Paul Neilsen (23), Jack Wilkins (55), and Dan Lepeska (21) left the Tahoma Creek Campground for a climb of Success Cleaver. If the cli...
McGee Spire, Tombstone Range. In early August Dave Craft, Al DeMaria, Claude Suhl and I made a brief visit to the McGee Lake region, east and north of Dawson City. On August 5, Suhl and I climbed the spire which stands west of Mount McGee. Followi...
Cloud Dancers, Portraits of North American Mountaineers. Jonathan Waterman, editor. The American Alpine Club Press, Golden, Colorado, 1993. 323 pages. $16.95.Jonathan Waterman’s editorial claim that “the most influential mountaineers, as well as s...