Kenton Cool and I arrived in the Alaska Range at the beginning of May, hoping to steal a march on other potential suitors to a new line on Foraker. After failing to climb the standard West Butt route for acclimatization, with Kenton turned back by...
Pete Absolon 1960–2007On August 11, a hiker trundled a rock that killed Pete Abosolon, 47, as he was climbing a new route in Leg Lake Cirque in the Southern Wind River Mountains.Though born in St. Paul, Minnesota, Pete spent his childhood in Texas...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. In January, 1958 Piero Ghiglione returned to the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, ascending the Donachuí valley, accompanied by the guides G. Pirovano and G. C. Canali. They established base camp between the Pico Ojeda (...
Over the summer, Greg Corliss, my wife Hjördis Rickert, and I climbed a new line on the thin spire just south and essentially part of the Third Needle along the Whitney Crest. The route goes through two roofs and corners on the east face of ...
KangchenjungaCHARLES EVANSFEW great Himalayan peaks are climbed at the first attempt and without much preliminary exploration. Kangchenjunga is no exception, for as long ago as 1899 Freshfield, the first European to make a circuit of the mountain...
RAPPEL ERROR, ROPE FAILED–INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTUtah, Millcreek CanyonOn August 16, “Jim” (28) and “Kirk” (32) set up a sport-rappel at a small crag in Millcreek Canyon. They used an old cotton rope from Kirk’s toolbox and tied off natural features ...
The North Face of Mount BaringFred Beckey and Edward CooperOf the many sheer mountain walls in the Cascades, those near an existing highway are bound to attract the most attention, and when one remains unclimbed after several attempts, it soon gai...
Mt. Alberta, Brazeau-Walsh. On September 6 Jon Walsh and I forded the frigid waters of the Sunwapta River with a bit of food, lots of fancy-wrapped processed sugar/caffeine products, and high hopes for good conditions on the remote and seldom visi...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHERCalifornia, Mount ShastaOn Friday, September 28, 1984, Jerry Ackeret (45), John Sharp (32), John Colteaux (49) and...
Ama Dablam Northeast Face. In early December Carlos Buhler and I made the first ascent of the northeast face of Ama Dablam. Flanked by the east and north ridges, this face is hidden from view until one walks beyond the village of Chukung, and is b...
Cerro Escudo, The Dream, Attempt. At the end of January, our party arrived at the Japanese camp. There was nobody else there, except a group of three Basques and two Chileans. Our plan was to climb a new route on Fortaleza. After a typical few-day...
Rondespiret and Other Ascents. In the 1997 AAJ, p. 268, an account may be found of the Norwegian expedition that successfully made the first ascent of the 800-meter Rondespiret (The Ronde Spire, 2427m) via the northeast face (Norwegian Grade 6+ A3...
ALASKA, MT. McKINLEYMembers of the Wilcox Party:Joseph F. Wilcox (24), leader F. Jerry Clark (31) *Henry Janes (25)*Dennis Luchterland (24)*Mark McLaughlin (23)*John Russell (23)*Anshel Schiff (30)Steve Taylor (22)*Walter Taylor (24)*— combined wi...
We were lucky this time. Jurek Stefanski, Wawrzyniec “Wawa” Zakrzewski, and I wanted to make free ascents of War and Poetry, on the west face of Ulamertorssuaq, and Stupid White Man, on the west face of Nalumasortoq. In 2007 Wawa and I tried both,...
FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Lembert DomeOn July 5, John Hrizo (36) was injured in a lead fall of about thirty feet on the second pitch of Northwest Books on Lembert Dome (5.6, 3 pitches).According to Hrizo, he did all the leading, fol...
Tupilak, new route and other first ascents. Previously unreported was a productive expedition to Schweizerland in July-August 2000 by Alexander Fidi, Julian Neumayer, Matthias Leitner, Wolfgang Schöls, Jörg Susnik (all Austrians), and Richard Jewe...
Cathedral Peak Attempt, Lemon Bjerge, East Greenland. Our expedition was organized to send a small, unsupported party of mountaineers into the interior of Greenland to scale unclimbed Cathedral Peak. We wanted to be self-sufficient and therefore p...
The Adankasima Tepui, in the heart of the Bolivar State, is one of 13 tepuis comprising the Chimanta Massif. It is a magical land, where miles and miles of tepuis and sandstone walls make us forget the chores and daily problems of the city. The ma...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT–FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, El CapitanOn May 17, Alexander Scola (28) and his partner (23) were on their first climbing trip to the U.S. from their homes in Germany. Scola had been c...
Various ascents. The Anglo-Scot- tish Vilcanota Expedition 2004 had as its primary objective the south face of Colque Cruz 1 (6,102m). Our leader, Dave Wilkinson, had made two earlier expeditions to the Vilcanota, in the 1980s, but we were unaware...