Yosemite Valley, 1985. Following is a partial list of new routes done in the Valley during 1985. On the wall scene, climbers continued to be active on El Capitan. Bill Russell and Doug McDonald climbed Mr. Midwest, which starts left of the West Fa...
Kangtega Attempt. An American expedition led by Steven Brimmer was composed of four climbers, a base-camp manager and a doctor. They attempted the south face with no high camps above the 16,500-foot Base Camp. They got to the top of the icefall at...
Ama Dablam, Winter Attempt. A five-man team from New Zealand led by Geoffrey Gabites, set up Base Camp and Camp I at 4575 and 5430 meters on November 27 and December 1. They climbed up to 6100 meters via the southwest ridge, but on December 14 cal...
Renard Tower, Hart am Wind. It was reported that Stefan Glowacz, Hoger Heuber, Kurt Albert, Jürgen Knappe, Hans Martin Götz and Gerhard Hiedorn established Hart am Wind (5.12c, 800m) on the Renard Tower. The 17-pitch was climbed over three days; a...
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCE Colorado, FlatironsOn May 12, 1986, a female (15) slipped and fell while cimbing the second Flatiron in Boulder with her father. Unexpected rainfall had apparently made the rock slippery enough to cause the girl...
Mexico: (3) Popocatepetl volcano. On 15 October 1950 two deaths and 10 serious and several hundred minor accidents occurred to mountain enthusiasts who had turned out for the celebration of the International Mountain Climbers Fraternity. This was ...
Torre Central de Paine, East Face, “Riders on the Storm" Route 1990-1991. We climbed a new route on the central part of the east face of the Central Paine Tower. The wall is about 1300 meters high with excellent quality, vertical, compact granite...
Mount MacDonald, Little Face. My cousin Alan Dane Waterman and I made a new route on the Little (east) Face of Mount MacDonald, some five miles east of Rogers Pass, which finished on a shoulder of the mountain (climbed a day later to the summit by...
Development of the Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund, and Khan Tengri, Attempt. Anatoli Boukreev was one of the great high-altitude climbers of modem times. His prolific career bridged the apex of Soviet mountaineering, its disintegration with the US...
Cape Farewell, South Greenland. A French party—M. and Mme. Jean Syda, Henri Bouchez, Guy Cholet, Henri Leblanc, and Maurice Martin— made six first ascents above the Torsukatak Fjord and two above the Kangi- kitsok during July and August 1957.
Dhaulagiri Attempt and Tragedy. After our success on Indrasan in April, the Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne hoped to climb Dhaulagiri in September and October, one group by the east face and the other by the normal route. In the second week of ...
Rajuntay, South Ridge, Cordillera Central. An experienced Italian group traveled to the Italian Alpine Club hut in the Santa Eulalia valley. On August 2 they moved to a 14,775-foot base in the valley opposite the one where the hut was. Camp I was ...
Kalanag. Despite the fact that Kalanag was first climbed in 1957 and that there have been numerous ascents since, our group of Dartmouth students, with limited mountaineering experience, undertook its challenge. Inspired by Freshman Rupin Dang, so...
Mount Vancouver, North Buttress, 1975. (We now have details which were lacking last year.—Editor) The Hachi Expedition was composed of Norishige Seki, Miss Shizuko Inazawa, Yasuo Tagen, Kohichi Sano, Kenji Okada, Hiroshi Nunobiki and me as leader....
FALL ON ROCK – RAPPEL ERROROregon, Beacon Rock State ParkOn July 24, Nathan Turner (30) was on the second rappel of Jill’s Thrill at Beacon Rock. But he had threaded the single rope through a fixed anchor with both ends of the rope over the ledge....
Chicago Mountaineering Club. The club’s increasing membership continues to tax the organization’s leadership resources. Despite overly large climbing parties the climbing leaders provide a high grade of training to beginners and try to promote the...
Thor Peak, South Face, Lucifer’s Hammer. In September, Bruce Bindner, Em Holland and I climbed Lucifer’s Hammer (III, 5.10a) which starts from Odin’s Wrath, a route we climbed the previous year (AAJ 1997, p. 142). From the flake ledge on top of th...
On July 11, at 1145, Shanna M. Ryan (26) was climbing Backflip (II 5.9), the first pitch on the Bookmark, when she took a 20 foot lead fall. She had been placing protection at the time of the fall, but suddenly slipped and yelled, “Falling.” Whe...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, NO HARD HAT British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. AssiniboineMike Pelletier (20), an experienced mountaineer, and Brian Vezina were descending the north ridge of Mt. Assiniboine unroped on 9 July 1979 at 1100 h...
Dorje Lhakpa, Winter Attempt and Tragedy. Americans Andy Selters, Kurt Schmierer and Greg Collum and one German attempted the unclimbed northwest face/northwest ridge of Dorje Lhakpa (6966 meters) with no climbing Sherpas, no fixed camps and no fi...