Macón, Rumibola and Llanaleria, Ancient and Modern Ascents. The three peaks named belong to the high desert of Salta province. Cerro Macón or Icomân (5490 meters, 18,012 feet) located along the way of the Antofagasta-Salta railroad, was ascended b...
Westfall Group, Southern Battle Range. On August 19 eight members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, six of them undergraduates, hoisted enormous packs and staggered out of the old mining ghost town of Cambourne, seven miles north of Upper Arrow ...
Sir Hubert Wilkins, by Lowell Thomas. New York: McGraw Hill, 1961. 296 pages, 28 photographs. Price $5.95.This is the story of an extraordinary man, truly sans peur et sans reproche. Our former honorary member was one of the great explorers of mod...
Annapurna IV. A nine-man Czech expedition, led by Wladimir Prochaska, attacked Annapurna IV (24,688 feet). The first attempt failed, but on October 7 Albrecht Milos and the Sherpa Angbabu reached the summit for the fifth ascent.Günter Oskar Dyrenf...
Yalungkang. Our Basque expedition entirely from Azpeitia was composed of Pako Uriarte, José Urbieta, Benantxio Irureta, Pello Aranburu, Francisco Javier Maiz, Iosu Arrieta, Rosa María Segués and me as leader. We climbed Yalung Kang by the normal r...
Northern Apolobamba. In July 2000 over four-weeks, Paul Bielen, Peter Boerstoel, Michael van Geemen, and Peter Valkenburg climbed 17 peaks above 5000m in the northern Apolobamba region, including one probable first ascent and six possible new rout...
Ango. On September 16 the Italian priest Gianni Ventura Libardini claimed with the Austrian nurse Erminia Zopf to have made the first ascent of a snow peak of 5500+ meters (18,045 feet) at the head of the Quebrada Pajush, which rises east of San M...
The Harvard, Mountaineering Club has initiated a careful selection plan for rope leaders in two categories: first-class leaders and second-class leaders. First-class leaders are qualified, in the eyes of the Club officers, to lead and to take full...
Abraham, Three Patriarchs, Southwest Buttress, Zion National Park. Walt Shipley and I met in Springdale, Utah in May for a major big-wall climb in Zion. We chose unclimbed Abraham by a natural overhanging crack system up the center of its southeas...
Various climbs, Cordón de la Jaula. A group has been active in this area of Argentina, west of the Cordón del Plata, near Aconcagua but much more isolated. Access has been by the El Plata-Vallecitos col and Quebrada del Peine, after the Quebrada d...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION,INEXPERIENCE WITH ASCENDING DEVICE California, Yosemite ValleyOn September 21, 1987, Wolfgang Schrattner (21) fell 50 meters while seconding on mechanical ascenders. Schrattner was on the traverse of the Great R...
Pumasillo Group, multiple ascents. Sean Easton and I spent 20 days in the Pumasillo group of the Cordillera Vilcabamba, in south-central Peru. It is quite hard to describe the mountains we climbed because the new government 1:100,000 topos have ma...
Peak 11,998, The Cooked Walnut. The LeConte Divide in general holds little of interest for the technical climber. Rising above Arctic Lake, however, is a beautiful north face that has escaped even the notice of Fred Beckey. On August 31, Rick Boyc...
New Fork Lakes Buttress, 1990. About six miles up from the New Fork Lakes Trailhead lies a large south-facing granite wall to the left above the trail, visible from the road driving into New Fork Lakes. I have heard it referred to as the China Wal...
Rimo I Attempt, Eastern Karakoram. The Indo-Intemational Rimo-Shyok Expedition had three goals. Our plan was to approach Rimo I via the Depsang Plain, an 18,000-foot plateau which rolls off into Tibet and which no foreigner had traversed since Eri...
Uli Biaho Tower, South Face, and Solo on the Great Trango Tower. Our group consisted of Rosanna Manfrini, Maurizio Venzo, Kurt Walde and me as leader. On June 4, we placed Base Camp at 4300 meters on the side of the Trango Glacier. For two weeks i...
Manaslu Tragedy. Our climbing members were Nancy Jackson, John Petroske, Dr. Charles Schertz, Steve Stockmyer, Howard Weaver, Canadian Dr. John Haigh and I as leader. Dave Gordon was Base Camp manager. We left Gorkha on March 3 with 120 porters an...
Vertigo Games is a collection of chatty, informal tales of Colorado climbing from the mid 1970s to the early 1980s. All major areas are represented, as are many minor ones, with rock climbing justifiably being the major focus. The text is liberall...
Ali Ratni Tibba, West Face, Kulu. Our seven-man expedition went to Kulu to climb alpine-style. On June 4 to 6 Alan Burgess, Bob Toogood, Bob Dearman and I climbed the 4500-foot-high granite west face of Ali Ratni Tibba. Spending 2½ days on the fac...
Everest. Our members were Patxi Fernández, Mikel Reparaz, Juan Tomás, José Ramón Zubizarreta, Félix Iñurrategui, Juan María Eguillor, Iñaki Ochoa de Olza, Josu Bereciartua, Alberto Iñurrategui and I as leader. We climbed the standard South Col rou...