Kedar Dome. Our 16-person international expedition established Base Camp at Tapovan on September 2. Our plans were to climb the northwest ridge of Kedar Dome and Shivling’s south buttress. Advance Base was established below the south face of Shivl...
Chummakhang East, Northern Sikkim. This satellite peak (6050 meters, 19,849 feet) of the 6212-meter main peak of Chummakhang was climbed by an expedition led by P.M. Das of the Sonam Gyasto Mountaineering Institute of Gangtok, Sikkim. The area has...
K2. A very strong Italian expedition under the leadership of Professor Ardito Desio and consisting of 12 climbers, 7 of them guides, and 4 scientists arrived in late May at their base camp at the foot of K2 (28,253 ft.). Bad weather hindered their...
Coylloriti and Colquepuncu, Nudo Ayacachi, Cordillera Vilcanota. Our expedition was composed of B. Carry, F. Dreyfus, J-C. Meneau, J-Y. Margantini, J-F. Tripart and me. Tripart soon had to be evacuated to Ocongate and took little part. We had been...
Cuerno Principal del Paine and La Hoja, 1991. An Italian group composed of Franco Nicolini, Romeo Destefani, Claudio Kerschbaumer and Felice Spell- ini climbed a new route on the southwest face of the Cuerno Principal on November 6, 1991. It took ...
Mustagh Ata, Approached from Pakistan. From Islamabad on July 25 we headed by bus for the 4960-meter-high Kunjerab Pass on the Pakistani-Chinese frontier. This road has been open to tourists only since May. We got to the Chinese border town of Par...
Volcán Lanín. The only long new route made so far this season was on the south face of Volcán Lanín, 12,388 feet. The upper part of this peak has a cap of ice that guards its upper slopes. On November 17, 1956, Carlos Sonntag, Gregorio Ezguerra, W...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONEColorado, Second FlatironOn September 4, rescuers were dispatched to the Second Flatiron on a report of a stranded climber. Noah Gershon (20) was located on a near vertical edge of the “Pullman Car,” a...
Syurenfen Attempt, Tien Shan. Our expedition, composed of Junichi Sinozaki, Yuji Kato, Masato Kameda, Susumi Takagishi, Toshikazu Yokosawa and me as leader, hoped to climb the southeast ridge of Syurenfen (6627 meters, 21,742 feet), which lies due...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR POSITION, “ATTITUDE”California, Joshua Tree National Monument, Feudal WallOn March 12,1993, a male climber (early 20s) was leading Coyote in the Bushes (5.10a) on Feudal Wall above campsite 7. He was belay...
No. 13: Adam Lebwald, Damographia oder Gemsen- Beschrcibung. 8 vo., pp. 56, with illustrations. A facsimile of a seventeenth-century black-letter book, containing quaint description of the habits of the chamois and the story of Maximilian’s advent...
Lhotse Middle, first ascent. The most impressive all of accomplishments in the spring was the first ascent of Lhotse Middle (8413m), which although not exactly a mountain in its own right, stands only 50 meters lower than Makalu and was widely rec...
Nanga Parbat, Ski Descent. On July 1, South Tirolean Hans Kammerlander and Swiss Diego Wellig reached the summit of Nanga Parbat and from about 100 vertical feet below the summit began a ski descent which they continued to Base Camp except where i...
FALLING ROCK AND FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE—Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain. On July 16, 1975, a party of eight army cadets and their platoon commander were on a one-day hike up the SW ridge of Cascade Mountain, reaching it by its NW branc...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT—LEADER AND RELAYER, DEHYDRATION/FATIGUEOntario, Ron Echo Provincial Park, “Ottawa” RouteOn September 4, J. N.(47) was leading the second pitch of “Ottawa” (5.7), belayed by M. C.(22), when he fell while attempti...
Dorje Lhakpa. A 3-man Japanese expedition to Dorje Lhakpa (6966 meters, 22,854 feet) completed the 9th ascent of the peak on October 13 when leader Sachi Takano, Masayuki Harada and Pasang Sherpa reached the top via the west ridge.Elizabeth Hawley
Shisha Pangma Central Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition to Shisha Pangma without supplementary oxygen or Sherpas was composed of Dave McNally, leader, Mack Ellerby, Tod Gassen, Bruce Hennessey, Ted Handwerk, Peter Nichols and me. New Zealander Si...
Manaslu, Ascent. Italian Sergio Martini on September 27 summited Manaslu, at 8,163 meters the world’s eighth highest mountain, via its standard northeast-face route, thereby gaining his twelfth 8000-meter summit. He now has just two more of these ...
Yosemite Valley, 1985. Following is a partial list of new routes done in the Valley during 1985. On the wall scene, climbers continued to be active on El Capitan. Bill Russell and Doug McDonald climbed Mr. Midwest, which starts left of the West Fa...
Kangtega Attempt. An American expedition led by Steven Brimmer was composed of four climbers, a base-camp manager and a doctor. They attempted the south face with no high camps above the 16,500-foot Base Camp. They got to the top of the icefall at...