Monte Francés and Other Peaks, Grahamland. Sponsored by the Instituto Antártico Chileno an expedition of 19 climbers and scientists participated in the 18th Antarctic campaign that this institute carried out in the southern summer of 1981-2. The O...
North Continental Tower, Little Sandy Buttresses. Near the head of the Little Sandy Valley is what appears to be a trio of impressive towers on the Divide to the east. Fred Beckey and Bob Stevenson named the central, highest one Continental Tower ...
Kailas, Brahmaur. An Indo-Japanese Ladies Expedition climbed Kailas (18,556 feet), which lies about 30 miles east of Chamba and 25 miles west of Mukar Beh. The leader was Miss Nandini M. Patel and the other Indian ladies were Dr. Meena Agarwal, Ko...
Winter Climbs, 1983-4. In February of 1984, Jim Knight and I climbed a prominent new 3-pitch waterfall, Cream Sickle, located just below Timpanogos Cave in American Fork Canyon. The crux was a 50-foot thin hollow pillar of ice plastered to an over...
Churen Himal South. On April 29 South Korean Kim Ho Sup and Sherpa Rin Sing Angyal left Camp VI at 21,650 feet and made the first ascent of Churen Himal South (24,184 (?) feet). The expedition was led by Kim Jung Sup and left Pokhara on April 9 an...
Sierra Nevada, California: (1) Half Dome (Yosemite National Park). On 19 June 1948 Chalmer J. Groff (19) and a friend, both National Park Service employees, off duty, were descending below the face of Half Dome, in sneakers. Groff slipped on a mos...
FALL ON ROCKWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn November 7, 1981, about 11:30 a.m., Jeff Oimoen (25) came to Park Headquarters and asked for help. He said he was climbing on the South Shore and fell. He had severe burns on all of his fingers and ...
Nanga Parbat, New Route, Solo. Only three months after his ascent of Mount Everest, Reinhold Messner stood on the top of his fifth 8000- meter summit. This time he had made a new route on Nanga Parbat, solo from beginning to end. With a liaison of...
Spyglass Group, Lardeau Range. Two outlying peaks of the Spyglass group were climbed by William C. Fix and Terry Beck on July 29 and 30. Approach from the Lardeau River was made via Tenderfoot Creek. Turning south from the creek the climbers ascen...
Mount Cowan, Absaroka Range, 1985. In August 1984 Curt Vogel and Lisa Schassberger climbed the first four pitches of a route on the most prominent buttress of Mount Cowan as seen from Elbow Lake. Due to a lack of time, they could not finish the ro...
Salt Spring Reservoir Area. The rock wall on the north side of the canyon about a mile west of Salt Springs Dam has yielded two enjoyable routes. In May, Walt Vennum and I climbed the Gully Cat. The route lies in the classic left-facing open-book ...
LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEUtah, Storm MountainOn July 16, 1983, a group of Boy Scouts, led by Don Jorgenson (36), hiked up to Stairs Gulch in Big Cottonwood Canyon to do some glissading. Jorgenson lost c...
Serpent’s Head, Orizaba. On January 10, from the hut on the west side of Orizaba, Wink Barrons and I made a new route by the rightmost (southernmost) waterfall on the cliff below the Sarcófago. We soloed three rope-lengths at the bottom of the rou...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 15, 1985, Frances St. Amant (38) stated that he and his partner had climbed Overhang Bypass the previous day, bivvied, then descended Gunsight early in the m...
Gibraltar, North Face Sheep River District. On Friday, June 25 Bill Davidson and I came up the Sheep River road to start out Saturday morning unroped up the first 300 feet to a ledge, back down and back up with hauling sacks. On Sunday we found th...
The Mt. Everest Expedition of 1938 was unsuccessful in reaching its goal. The Rongbuk Monastery was reached on April 6th and Camp 3 at the foot of the North Col was occupied on April 26th. Because of poor weather conditions and the health of the c...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, The SquawOn August 3, 1987, Carlo Zozykran (34), an experienced climber, and two companions left Squamish in the late afternoon to do Birds of Prey (approxim...
First Sagarmatha Preservation Expedition. The First Sagarmatha Preservation Expedition, a unique environmental project to remove the debris of previous mountaineering attempts on Everest, finished the second phase of its operation during the autum...
McKinley Climbers’ Memorial. A memorial dedicated to climbers who have died on McKinley has been established in Talkeetna, Gateway to Denali. Through the end of 1992, 75 mountaineers representing 13 nations have lost their lives on North America’s...
Sinkiang. In October 1948 the New York Times reported an attempt on 18,000-ft. Bogdo Ola by E. E. Shipton and H. W. Tilman, well-known English climbers. According to reports, the climb was attempted from both the S.E. and N.E. sides. A camp was es...