Moro Rock, El Niño. Grant Gardner, Jody Pennycook and I completed a new route on the east face of Moro Rock in Sequoia National Park during an extended Veteran’s Day weekend. Three and a half days were spent on El Niño (V 5.10 A3+). This nine-pitc...
Peak 10552, Cathedral Rock, The Snaz. This route ascends the west face of Cathedral Rock in the large dihedral cutting up the center of the face. Yvon Chouinard and Mort Hemple on August 4 pioneered this excellent IV, F9 route. After a steep step ...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING OBJECT (THE CLIMBER), CLIMBING UNROPED, PLACED NO PROTECTION, POOR POSITION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett PeakOn June 25, 1994, at 1015, John Baise (21) was attempting to lead, unroped, ...
Mount Kennedy, North Ridge, Second Ascent. On May 12 Terry Boley, Jack Lewis, Alan Millar, David Stevenson and I left the Alaska Highway and arrived at the base of Kennedy’s north side after seven days of travel. There we located our food and equi...
California, Sierra Nevada, Clyde Minaret—In the early afternoon of September 3, Dick Scheible, Jay Holliday, Marcia Lightbody, and Charles Finnila (21) of the University of California Hiking Club reached a point on Clyde Minaret where they decided...
Tos-Tichu Himal. Ernest Peterson and I spent three weeks of July in the Punjab Himalaya. From Kulu valley, about 350 miles north of New Delhi, we first drove and then hiked 30 miles eastward, up the valley of the Parbati River to the last village,...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO PLACE PROTECTION, POOR POSITION Colorado, Mount Powell, Northwest CouloirOn July 6, W. H. (m. 26) and K. D. (f. 30) decided to climb unroped because of lack of available protection and soft snow unable to hold snow flukes o...
Colorado, Turkey Creek Canyon (1)—On July 4, Daniel McGill (15) fell while climbing with a group of friends in the Turkey Creek Canyon area. Details of the accident are unknown. The boy suffered a possible broken shoulder and other injuries.Source...
AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Purcell MountainsA group of ten skiers led by Rudi Gertsch had been taken by helicopter to an unnamed 9,000-foot peak near the junction of McMurdo Creek and the Spillimacheen River in the Purcell Mountains on 14 February...
Mount Challenger, Southeast Face. On July 27 Martin Epp, Ernst von Allmen and I climbed this route above Luna Creek, starting from the col between the face and the prominent gendarme. We followed the yellow dièdre until close to the overhanging se...
Singuchuli, East Face. Until our visit, the east face of Singuchuli remained unclimbed. The face is 1450 meters high with an average angle of approximately 65°, and characterized by narrow couloirs, especially in upper part of the face. Over the e...
West Greenland and Mount Raleigh, Baffin Island. The objective for Mischief’s second voyage to Davis Strait was Mount Raleigh in Exeter Sound on the east coast of Baffin Island. This mountain was so named by the great seaman-explorer John Davis in...
Nez Perce, Lemon Crack. This new route (III, F9, A3), climbed on August 1, 1969, by Peter Cleveland and Michael Yokell, is on the same cliff as the “Big Bluff’ route which was established some ten years ago. The route starts in a cave below a whit...
Salcantay, East Ridge. On July 27 we pitched Base Camp at 14,275 feet below the east ridge of Salcantay. We placed camps at 16,250, 17,400 and 19,300 feet. On August 4 and 5 Dr. Mario Quattrini, Giorgio Marconi, Antonio Mangononi, Consuelo Bonaldi...
Tharkot. A Japanese expedition of 29 men and four women climbed Tharkot (20,010 feet), which lies seven miles southeast of Trisul. They climbed from the Mrigthuni Glacier with three camps. A total of 24 climbers got to the top from October 4 to 6....
Cordillera Vilcanota. Syuzi Tateyama and I climbed Campa I (5480 meters, 17,979 feet) on May 18 after placing Base Camp near Pucacocha. We were turned back by unstable snow on the south face of Tinki. On May 25 we climbed Parcocaya (5290 meters, 1...
Baffin Island. The Alpine Club of Canada sponsored a three-week camp on Cumberland Peninsula. Organized by P. D. Baird, the 21 members flew from Montreal to Frobisher Bay on July 30 and then, by charter flying boat, to the head of Pangnirtung Fjor...
Monte Francés and Other Peaks, Grahamland. Sponsored by the Instituto Antártico Chileno an expedition of 19 climbers and scientists participated in the 18th Antarctic campaign that this institute carried out in the southern summer of 1981-2. The O...
North Continental Tower, Little Sandy Buttresses. Near the head of the Little Sandy Valley is what appears to be a trio of impressive towers on the Divide to the east. Fred Beckey and Bob Stevenson named the central, highest one Continental Tower ...
Kailas, Brahmaur. An Indo-Japanese Ladies Expedition climbed Kailas (18,556 feet), which lies about 30 miles east of Chamba and 25 miles west of Mukar Beh. The leader was Miss Nandini M. Patel and the other Indian ladies were Dr. Meena Agarwal, Ko...