Larsen Harbour to Royal Bay traverse and first ascent of Peak 5,680'. Using Skip Novak’s yacht Pelagic to make the sea crossing from Ushuaia via the Falkland Islands to South Georgia, Julian Freeman-Attwood, Rich Haworth, Novak and Crag Jones were...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Moore’s WallOn June 9, 1990, as a party of four, we were planning to lead and follow the route, Golden Earring, a 5.7. The first two members of the party had already led up a short 15 mete...
Nanda Devi The Tragic Expedition. John Roskelley. Stackpole Books, Harrisburg, PA, 1987. 239 pages, illustrated. $16.95.A full accounting of the events on the 1976 Indo-American expedition described in John Roskelley’s new book Nanda Devi The Trag...
Tripyramid. My two brothers, Carl and Michael, and I spent three weeks around the Traleika Glacier waiting out storms. Our climbs on the three mornings that were clear made up for the lost time. We tried Tatum by its long northeast ridge, but snow...
San Jacinto Mountains, Taquitz Rock—On June 19, 1954, Joe Fitscher (16) and a companion, Kodis, visited Taquitz Rock on a scheduled Sierra Club climb. They first climbed the horn route using one piton. This is a difficult rock climb and more conse...
Mount Superior, South Face. I rope soloed a new route on the unclimbed south face of Mount Superior in September of 1994 (IV 5.8 A2, eight pitches). The approach to this wall starts at Superior's drainage, which crosses Little Cottonwood Canyon Ro...
Hagshu, Kishtwar Himalaya. We were Tim Whitaker, Max Holliday, Phil Booth, Ken Hopper and I. Booth, Hopper and Holliday made the first legal ascent of Hagshu (6330 meters, 20,768 feet), reaching the summit on September 16 after a three-day, alpine...
Central Tower of Paine, Insumisoa. It was reported that in February the Spanish team of Raúl Melero, Mikel Sáenz, Xabier Urdanoz and Pepe Rayo finished a route begun in 1994, Insumisoa (VI 6b+ A4, 1200 meters). Further details are lacking. (Desnivel)
Geladaindong massif, Peak 6,543m. On October 2, 2007, a Japanese expedition made the first ascent of an unnamed 6,543m peak, a major summit in the Geladaindong massif of the Tangula Shan. The summit lies 5.4km southwest of Geladaindong (6,621m) at...
Peaks at Head of Kuskawulsh Glacier. We climbed a peak east of Pinnacle Peak on the adjoining east ridge. The route was from the north on mixed snow, ice and broken rock on a ridge which led directly to the summit (c. 9600 feet). We descended via ...
Mt. Hunter, Southeast Spur, Third Ascent. Jeff apple Benowitz and I started up the initial couloir of the Southeast Spur on May 24. Once on the ridge proper, a few pitches of snow and mixed climbing brought us to the base of a 350-foot headwall. T...
Alpamayo, Artesonraju, Ulta. After failing because of bottomless snow in an attempt on a new route on the south face of Ranrapalca, Philip Stuart Dawson and I climbed the north ridge of Alpamayo from the Quebrada Santa Cruz. This took us four days...
Lost Temple Spire and Fremont Peak, Wind River Range. During the last weekend of September 1980, Jay Wilson, Stan Mish and I climbed the west ridge of Lost Temple Spire. We scrambled up to near the base of the northwest face of East Temple. From t...
Grand Teton, New Routes, and Other Climbs. On the east face of the Grand Teton, in July, Zac Martin and I climbed The Golden Arête (V 5.11d AI2) with 15 bolts and Offspring (III 5.11 Al) with four bolts and three points of aid. Both routes are loc...
Simian Climbing Club. Organized in 1963, the first years of club activities consisted mostly of small outings by individuals for practice rock climbing and mountaineering in the West. Only recently have larger club trips been scheduled during the ...
FALL ON SNOW—CRAMPON POINT CAUGHT IN PANTS, NO HARD HAT,CLIMBING ALONEWyoming, Mount Owen, Koven CouloirAt 1300 on August 2, Randy Huskinson (46) was descending the Koven Couloir following a successful ascent of the East Ridge of Mount Owen. He ha...
Magician Needle, Sidewalk Surprise, The Needles. In September Dick Leversee and I climbed this route on the east face of Magician Needle. From the broad saddle between Magician and its neighbor to the east, notice a prominent ramp, “The Sidewalk,”...
Peaks on Middle Kahiltna and Attempt on Moose’s Tooth. On May 26 Don Sheldon flew Margaret Young and me singly in his ski-wheeled super-cub from Talkeetna to a tributary of the middle part of the Kahiltna Glacier and to the east of it. We cruised ...
On February 14, David Shoemaker (21) and Paul Flanagan (21) were climbing in Huntington Ravine. Leaving Pinkham Notch in the late morning, they hitched a ride with Brad Ray of the United States Forest Service up to Huntington Ravine. Ray left them...
Mount Temple, First Winter Ascent. On January 3, 1969, Dave Haley and I climbed Mount Temple. From camp in Paradise valley below Sentinel Pass, two hours of wallowing in waist-deep snow took us to the pass. From there we followed the wind-blown so...