Nevado Weqqe Suruchi, A Life Less Ordinary. The Panta Group lies in a sparsely populated area and consists of the most westerly cluster of glaciated peaks in the Vilcabamba. The principal summits are Panta itself (5,667m) and Camballa (5,551m). In...
Banner Peak, East Face—Far Right Side. On the 28th of August, Kevin Sutter and I climbed what we believed to be a new route on the right side of the east face of Banner Peak. Two pitches of fourth class led to the top of the shoulder just north of...
Mount Hooker. After a previous unsuccessful attempt on Mount Hooker’s northeast face, Craig Luebben and I hiked from Big Sandy Lodge into Hailey Pass. On August 30, we made a complete girdle-traverse ascent of Mount Hooker. A perched block on pitc...
P 6150, Durung Drung Glacier. The 12-man Tokyo High School Teacher Expedition was under my leadership. We placed Base Camp on the Pensi La near the tongue of the Durung Drung Glacier. Advance Base was placed up the glacier on the 7th at 4400 meter...
Great Trango Tower Attempt. On May 27, Doug Dean and I left Base Camp directly across the Baltoro Glacier from the Trango group and hiked to the base of the gully below the west side of the Nameless Tower, hoping to repeat the Selters-Woolums nort...
Manaslu, Hourglass Route. The climbing members of our expedition were Papa Walter, Luigi Visentin and I. We left Kathmandu on March 24 and reached Base Camp above Sama at 3850 meters on April 2. Until April 17, we acclimatized, getting up to 6500 ...
The Armchair Mountaineer is a collection of fifty short pieces, whose editorial research—the crux of any such book—is exhaustive and caring. Reuther and Thom have evidently culled through everything in which the ascent of mountains is even mention...
Mana Peak. A six-man team led by Nanda Lal Purohit climbed this 23,860-foot peak on October 26.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Everest. Our expedition consisted of Americans Robert Hoffman, Kurt Cox, Bradford Bull, Edward DeLean, Philip Perrin, Robert Elias, Karen Stephens, Sherman Bull, Dean Johnson, Ross Berry and me, Mexicans Sergio Fitch Watkins and Alfonso de la Parr...
The Southwestern Mountaineers. 1956 was a year of growth for the Southwestern Mountaineers, of Las Cruces, New Mexico. Composed primarily of students, professional, and military personnel from Las Cruces, White Sands, and Fort Bliss, the group has...
Cerro de la Coipita (or de la Lagunita), Cordillera de Colangüil. This range lies in northern San Juan province, parallel to the Argentine-Chilean border. The Cerro de la Coipita is the northernmost peak of the range. We were Swiss Raphael and Sté...
Point 5,911m, attempt. During acclimatization for an attempt on Khunyang Chhish, Kazuo Tobita led a five-person team on an attempt on an unnamed 5,911m peak near Kilik Pass. This is northwest of the Karakoram Highway, near the northernmost point o...
Tongass National Forest, Field Glacier. The U.S. Board on Geographic Names, at its June 13, 1996, meeting, approved the name Field Glacier in Haines Borough and the City and Borough of Juneau, Alaska. This name has been entered into the Nation’s o...
The Marco Pallis Expedition in the Gharwal Himalaya effected a number of climbs around the Gangotri glacier. The party was composed of Marco Pallis, C. F. Kirkus, Dr. Charles Warren. F. E. Hicks, and R. C. Nicholson. Kirkus and Warren effected the...
AVALANCHE, CLIMBING ALONE—Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak. On May 2 at 10 a.m. Alan Russell (26) was swept from his stance about 100 feet above the old “cables” by a slab avalanche. Russell fell down high angle rock and snow for...
Mt. Grosvenor, attempt on northwest face. In the spring of 2003 Grosvenor (6,367m) was still unclimbed. It has a spectacular northwest face, which we attempted as two separate pairs. Andy Cave and myself tried the central couloir directly below th...
Colorado, Halletts Peak—On July 18, John Barry (28) and David Burke (27) of Boulder were climbing the north face of Halletts Peak by the 800-foot sixth class chimney. After a long struggle with the final large overhang, lacking tension stirrups or...
PRUSSIK FAILUREAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise IcefallBrent Davis, J. Northcote, and two companions set a fixed rope on the first pitch, 120 meters, grade 5, of the Lake Louise Icefall on 2 May 1977. Northcote started up it with a prussik an...
Shivling Ascent and Attempts. A 6-member Indian expedition led by H.C. Chokshi climbed Shivling (6543 meters, 21,467 feet) in early June. The summiters included Rajesh Rana and several high-altitude porters. Unsuccessful were 3 Frenchmen led by Mi...
CORNICE FAILUREAlberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield, Mount AndromedaAt approximately 0230 on May 30, two climbers (22 and 23) departed the climbers’ parking lot to ascend the Skyladder route on Mount Andromeda. Later that morning, they...