Mana Peak. A six-man team led by Nanda Lal Purohit climbed this 23,860-foot peak on October 26.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Everest. Our expedition consisted of Americans Robert Hoffman, Kurt Cox, Bradford Bull, Edward DeLean, Philip Perrin, Robert Elias, Karen Stephens, Sherman Bull, Dean Johnson, Ross Berry and me, Mexicans Sergio Fitch Watkins and Alfonso de la Parr...
The Southwestern Mountaineers. 1956 was a year of growth for the Southwestern Mountaineers, of Las Cruces, New Mexico. Composed primarily of students, professional, and military personnel from Las Cruces, White Sands, and Fort Bliss, the group has...
Cerro de la Coipita (or de la Lagunita), Cordillera de Colangüil. This range lies in northern San Juan province, parallel to the Argentine-Chilean border. The Cerro de la Coipita is the northernmost peak of the range. We were Swiss Raphael and Sté...
Point 5,911m, attempt. During acclimatization for an attempt on Khunyang Chhish, Kazuo Tobita led a five-person team on an attempt on an unnamed 5,911m peak near Kilik Pass. This is northwest of the Karakoram Highway, near the northernmost point o...
Tongass National Forest, Field Glacier. The U.S. Board on Geographic Names, at its June 13, 1996, meeting, approved the name Field Glacier in Haines Borough and the City and Borough of Juneau, Alaska. This name has been entered into the Nation’s o...
The Marco Pallis Expedition in the Gharwal Himalaya effected a number of climbs around the Gangotri glacier. The party was composed of Marco Pallis, C. F. Kirkus, Dr. Charles Warren. F. E. Hicks, and R. C. Nicholson. Kirkus and Warren effected the...
AVALANCHE, CLIMBING ALONE—Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak. On May 2 at 10 a.m. Alan Russell (26) was swept from his stance about 100 feet above the old “cables” by a slab avalanche. Russell fell down high angle rock and snow for...
Mt. Grosvenor, attempt on northwest face. In the spring of 2003 Grosvenor (6,367m) was still unclimbed. It has a spectacular northwest face, which we attempted as two separate pairs. Andy Cave and myself tried the central couloir directly below th...
Colorado, Halletts Peak—On July 18, John Barry (28) and David Burke (27) of Boulder were climbing the north face of Halletts Peak by the 800-foot sixth class chimney. After a long struggle with the final large overhang, lacking tension stirrups or...
PRUSSIK FAILUREAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise IcefallBrent Davis, J. Northcote, and two companions set a fixed rope on the first pitch, 120 meters, grade 5, of the Lake Louise Icefall on 2 May 1977. Northcote started up it with a prussik an...
Shivling Ascent and Attempts. A 6-member Indian expedition led by H.C. Chokshi climbed Shivling (6543 meters, 21,467 feet) in early June. The summiters included Rajesh Rana and several high-altitude porters. Unsuccessful were 3 Frenchmen led by Mi...
CORNICE FAILUREAlberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield, Mount AndromedaAt approximately 0230 on May 30, two climbers (22 and 23) departed the climbers’ parking lot to ascend the Skyladder route on Mount Andromeda. Later that morning, they...
Alpine Club of Canada. Mountains. In addition to copious climbing options from Newfoundland to Vancouver Island, Canadians are blessed with vast, unpopulated spaces in- between. But with a relatively small population inhabiting the world’s second ...
Kusum Kangguru. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Minoru Kato was joined in the field by three other Japanese climbers. Together they established two camps on the southeast face, and on October 21, six of them reached the summit (6367 meters, ...
The Gorge, Various Ice Climbs. In the Western Chugach Range, along the southeast edge of the massive Knik Glacier, lies a geological wonder known as The Gorge, a five-mile corridor lined by vertical glacial ice on one side and alpine walls on the ...
Los Portones, East Face. M. Arbeláez and R. Schutz made in January a new route on the rock wall, crowned with steep ice, of the east face of Pico Los Portones (also called San Paulín Norte, 5222 meters, 17,142 feet). The climb took two days from t...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, WEATHERWashington, Mount Rainier, Muir Snowfield Paradise GlacierOn April 1, Michael Corroone (51) and Dan Gallagher (36) set out to climb Mount Rainier. Severe weather prevented a summit attempt, and they beg...
On May 26 and 27 Scott Adamson and I completed a new route on the south face of the Mooses Tooth. Following ice runnels, chimneys, and cracks, we found our way directly to the main (east) summit. Shortly after Talkeetna Air Taxi dropped us off ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONEColorado, Crestone NeedleOn August 31, 1982, the body of Matthew O’Connor (24) was recovered from Crestone Needle, from which he had fallen a few weeks earlier. On August 12, with only an extra sweater, he had set out t...