In Memoriam AAJ
Frank G. Wells, 1932-1994

FRANK G. WELLS1932-1994Frank G. Wells was tragically killed on April 3, 1994 in a helicopter crash in the Ruby Mountains of Nevada. In the same accident, the well known female climber Beverly Johnson, Yosemite climber Paul Scannell and the pilot D...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam, Winter Ascent

Ama Dablam, Winter Ascent. A South Korean expedition composed of three climbers made a remarkably rapid winter ascent of Ama Dablam. They were away from Kathmandu for only 15 days! They used no Sherpas. Three camps were established on the south ri...


Club Activities AAJ
Southeast Section

Southeast Section. Despite geographic and demographic obstacles, 2007 witnessed a significant renaissance in AAC activity in the Southeast Section. Historically, development of a sense of AAC community within the Southeast has proven difficult. Th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam, Southwest Ridge

Ama Dablam, Southwest Ridge. An international expedition was led by Renato Moro with the help of two guides Franco Girodo and me, who fixed rope on the route. In October the first climbers could not succeed because of very bad weather. Fortunately...


Accident Reports ANAM
Failure to Test Holds—Handhold Came Off, Fall on Rock, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Jackson Peak

FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS–HANDHOLD CAME OFF, FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Wind River Range, Jackson PeakOn August 11 about 1100, Bev Boynton (51) and David Moore of Jackson, WY, were finishing the final pitch on the South Buttress of Jackson Peak in the Wind ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Various Attempts

Antarctic Peninsula, Various Activity. In January, 1999, an Australian expedition aboard the yacht Tiama accomplished some of the most notable climbing in the Antarctic Peninsula in a number of years. Kieran Lawton, Julie Styles, Geoff Moore, Roby...


Book Reviews AAJ
Meeting the Mammals

Meeting the Mammals, by Victor H. Cahalane. 8 vo., ix + 133 pages, with 52 illustrations from drawings. New York: The Macmillan Co., 1943. Price $1.75.Those interested in wild life will find this one of the most useful and interesting books that h...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North American, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley, South Buttress-Thayer Basin-West Buttress Traverse

Mount McKinley, South Buttress-Thayer Basin-West Buttress Traverse. Jim Carpenter, Greg Kallio, Bill Laxson, Steve Lyford, Jim Miller, Dick Morse, Jeff Thomas and I began on June 18, traveling up the Kahiltna’s East Fork. After a few avalanche sca...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock While Descending, Colorado, Flatirons

FALL ON ROCK WHILE DESCENDING Colorado, FlatironsOn May 10,1986, a female climber (23) had completed a fifth class route called Friday’s Folly on the third Flatiron in Boulder, when she slipped and fell during her descent down the third class gul...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Rakaposhi

Rakaposhi. Our objective was to climb the 10-mile-long difficult southwest ridge of Rakaposhi, previously climbed only by Mike Banks and Tom Patey in 1958. Poles and Japanese had also reached the summit in 1979 but by different routes. On July 2 w...


Accident Reports ANAM
Mexico, Popocatepetl Volcano (17,887 ft.)

Mexico: (2) Popocatepetl volcano (17,887 ft.). On 3 September 1950 a large rock avalanche swept away a group of 25 climbers who were making a climb under the auspices of the Alpine Federation. Two members of the party were killed immediately while...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, P c. 1400

P c.1400. In late November, Steve Hayward, Chilean José Muriez and I completed a new trekking route, leaving the Río Ascencio via a steep glaciated pass northwest of the Japanese Camp. We climbed steep, unstable avalanche debris on the right side ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Diran Attempt

Diran Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Jaume Anglada, Miquel Serrat, Joan Sola, Xevi Robiró R., Xevi Roviró A. Josep Rovira, Joan Colet and me as leader. We had hoped to complete a new route up the north ridge, previously attempted by Spaniard...


Book Reviews AAJ
Beyond the High Himalayas

Beyond the High Himalayas, by William O. Douglas. 352 pages, with 16 Kodachromes and 26 black and white photographs by the author. Garden City, N. Y.: Doubleday & Company, 1952. Price, $5.00.Justice Douglas is outstandingly a good traveller an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu

Manaslu. Our reconnaissance party to Manaslu of three members under the leadership of Ohara has returned from Nepal, reporting the successful settlement of the trouble which caused the 1954 party to give up the climb of Manaslu when the Sama villa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Split Peak, North Face

Split Peak, North Face. The north face of the previously unclimbed east summit of Split Peak (9610 feet) was climbed by Jim States and me during the Memorial Day holiday. We approached from the north by canoe, bushwhack and knee-deep snow to camp ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, North West Territories, Harrison Smith and Lotus Flower, Logan Mountains

Harrison Smith and Lotus Flower Tower, Logan Mountains. Paola Fanton, Giuseppe Bagattoli, Danny Zampiccoli, Fabio Leoni and I traveled north to Watson Lake and were flown by float plane on July 3 to Glacier Lake. Four hours on foot took us into th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.), Kazakhstan, Tien-Shan, Central Tien Shan, Overview

Central Tien Shan, Overview. The weather during the 1998 season in the Central Tien-Shan (Khan-Tengri/Pobeda region), typified by a lot of snow and storm, was extremely terrible. Peak Pobeda was climbed by only a few groups; one of them, from Japa...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock (2), No Hard Hat, California, Joshua Tree National Park, Hidden Valley

FALL ON ROCK (2), NO HARD HATCalifornia, Joshua Tree National Park, Hidden ValleyAbout 4:00 p.m. on March 15, Curtis “Woody” Stark (67) and Alfred Kuok (44) were climbing in an area near the Hidden Valley nature trail. The trail is a popular desti...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Everest, North Face Attempt

Everest, North Face Attempt. Our team was composed of five women: Stacy Allison, Evelyn Lees, Liz Nichols, Melly Reuling and Mimi Stone*, and ten men: Q. Belk, Dr. David Black, Peter Goldman, Michael Graber, Wes Krause, Bob McConnell, George Schun...