No. 12: J. B. von Tscharner, Die Bernina (1786). Oblong, 8 vo., pp. 44, with frontispiece. An annotated reprint of von Tscharner’s poetical description of Bernina glaciers, including an account of a fatal accident to an Englishman in 1701.
Everest, post monsoon attempts. In stark contrast to the unprecedented hordes of climbers on Everest during the spring, the post monsoon season saw practically no one on the mountain. For the first time since autumn 1970 not a single team came to ...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Slavko Cankar, Smiljan Smodiš, Brane Povše, Uroš Rupar, Stojan Burnik, Matjaž Feraric, Iztok Ivakic, Bojan Krajnc, Miran Meved, Miro Pogocar, Stojan Rampe, Matjaž Slapnik, Aleš Stop...
FALL INTO A CREVASSE AND EXCEEDING ABILITIES—Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Bow Glacier. Serge and Christianne Pageau (47), Georges Laurier, and two companions left Bow Hut at 1400 hours on July 15 to attempt St. Nicholas by the south ridge. It had rai...
RAPPEL ERROR—ONLY CLIPPED INTO ONE ROPE, NO RELAY, NO HARD HATOntario, Milton, Kelso Conservation Area, “Jolly Rodger” RouteTwo climbers, S. H. and W. T. from Mississauga, finished climbing the route “Jolly Rodger” around 1400 on August 23, and de...
Khatang Attempt. Our 6-man, 3-woman expedition, which I led, attempted to ascend Khatang’s (6782 meters, 22,250 feet) northeast ridge, by which Japanese in 1982 and Swiss in 1987 had climbed the peak. We established Base Camp in the Lumding Kharka...
Wind River Outing of the C. M. C. The Colorado Mountain Club held its 33rd Annual Summer Outing in the upper Dinwoody Canyon of the Wind River Range, 3-18 August 1946. Eighty persons participated, including members not only of the C. M. C. but als...
Joshua Tree Rock Climbing Guide, 2nd edition, 624 pages, photos and maps, $40.00; Joshua Tree Sport Climbs, 100 pages, $12.95. Both by Randy Vogel, 1992, Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO.Randy Vogel’s first (1986) edition included over 1300 routes,...
Surapatilla, Vinohurara, Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. The Ober-bayerische Anden Expedition climbed from June 4 to 17. They ascended many of the summits rising from the glaciers on the northern rim of the Hichukhota valley. Two peaks, Surapatill...
Mt. McKinley, Slovak Route, Second Ascent. Kevin Mahoney and I flew into the Alaska Range to climb for the month of May. We arrived on May 4 and headed up the West Buttress, intending to acclimatize at 14,000 feet for a few days. After a few cold ...
FALL ON SNOWWyoming, TetonsOn July 24, Dick Attridge was descending from the lower saddle in Garret Canyon when he slipped on the snow. He slid into rocks after sliding approximately 100 feet on the snow. Mr. Attridge sprained his right ankle in t...
FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE, MISCOMMUNICATIONWashington, Icicle Creek, Eight Mile ButtressOn Sunday, April 16, Andy Tonning was participating in a rock climbing field trip as a student in the Seattle Mountaineers Intermediate Climbing Course. He was asc...
Shisha Pangma. Our commercial expedition organized by Himalayan Kingdoms and led by me had 12 clients and three guides. Heavy snowfall dogged progress in September and high winds stopped summit attempts in October. The first summit attempt on Octo...
“Islet in the Sky,” Canyonlands National Park, 1976. This slender needle can be located on the large park topo map in the Island in the Sky area next to a peninsula of rock near Muffin Butte. This fine route follows thin lost-arrow cracks on the n...
Manaslu, First Tibetan Ascent. On May 3 and 4 a band of eight strong Tibetans (led by Samdruk) who spend their lives on the high Tibetan Plateau needed no artificial oxygen at all to succeed in the first attempt on Manaslu by Tibetans or any other...
Power Dome, Alternative Energy. In 1984, Val Licon and I climbed a five-pitch route on the face between Helm’s Deep and Solar Energy. After face climbing to the right side of a flake, we climbed to the left side and followed a white dike up and le...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Baxter s Pinnacle. On 15 August Herb Swedlund, Bob Fenichel, Charles Joyce, Mike Edesess, and Peter Keller were descending in that order through the loose gully to the west of Baxter’s Pinnacle. Although Swedlun...
Central Utah Ice Climbs. Several new ice climbs of high quality were done in January and February of 1987. These were located in Straight Creek Canyon, near Orangeville. Easy access via a maintained road and steep ice in a sandstone setting are in...
Touchstone Wall, first free ascent. The free climbing season in Zion started off with a bang, as Rob Pizem and I freed the last holdout of the trinity of classic Zion big walls. Moonlight Buttress fell in 1992, Spaceshot in 2005, and finally the T...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Jasper National Park, Roche à PerdrixOn October 26, at 0700 J.H. (28) and M.L. (42) set out to climb the Diagonal Route on the west face of Roche à Perdrix. At 1100, they reached the summit and began a rappel down the Chimney ...