Peak Free Korea, Variation. Two summits caught Bernard’s and my attention: Mt. Korona (4860m) and Mt. Svobodnaya Korea (4740m). The first one is a granite tower surrounded by a vast glacier. Many difficult lines remain untouched, while various roc...
Ojos del Salado, Cerro “Radioactivo” and Cerro “Ojitos, ” While in the area in the first two weeks of March, our expedition made the ascent of Cerro “Radioactivo,” shown on the maps as P 5750 (18,865 feet), about six kilometers southwest of the ne...
Mount MacDonald, West Face. Most imaginations are caught by MacDonald’s imposing north face, the bastion of Rogers Pass, leaving the retiring west face to the less ambitious. Our approach to the west face was the MacDonald Couloir, which, in the e...
My Life of High Adventure by Grant H. Pearson with Philip Newill.Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, 1962. 16 pages of plates. I recall sleeping soundly in a tent on Mount McKinley some years ago and being awakened by a loud cry, "Crevass...
Annapurna II and IV. Kazmir Drašlar and Majija Maležic reached the summit of Annapurna II (26,041 feet) for the second ascent after sunset of October 22 from Camp VI at 23,800 feet. The camp was regained only at 2:30 A.M. on the 23rd. (First ascen...
Kangchenjunga, Southwest Face. A Japanese expedition, led by Masaaki Fukushima, made the 26th ascent of Kangchenjunga, climbing the southwest face. They established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III, IV and V at 5500, 6170, 6830, 7200, 7800 and 8200 met...
Ananea, Cordillera Apolobamba. Michel Nicollier, Alain Gonnet and I climbed Ananea (19,193 feet) by its east ridge on April 15. Two days later Hans Ruedi Aebersold and Ueli Wannenmacher climbed its southwest ridge. On May 21 Nicollier and I climbe...
Salinas, various routes. Salinas is known as the best place for long, adventurous routes in Brazil. It’s only a three-hour drive from Rio, but the place is wild and peaceful. Just a small village with a café and a small grocery store. It’s possibl...
P5720 and Nevado de Caraz de Santa Cruz. Giuseppe Loss and Carlo Marchiodi were killed on July 6 as they descended from the summit of the Nevado de Caraz de Santa Cruz (19,751 feet), on which they had made a new route, the north face. (First ascen...
The Dartmouth Mountaineering Club, during the academic years of 1948-50, expanded its safety program with much enthusiasm, chiefly due to the original efforts of the 1948 faculty advisor John Montaigne, former ranger, who two years ago had outline...
Streaked Wall, Zion National Park. In mid April, Mugs Stump and I made the first ascent of the Streaked Wall. The 14-pitch route involved free-climbing on the first five pitches up to 5.11 in difficulty. The last nine pitches were on the severely ...
On Cerro El Cuerno (5,462m), near Aconcagua, in February 2010 Argentines Jorge Ackermann and Tomás Aguiló opened a direct route (500m, 90° WI5) on the south face.
FALLING ROCK California, Mount AbbottOn September 19, 1987, five climbers were ascending the mountain in a steep, third class rocky area. The lead climber dislodged a rock slab that slid between his legs and hit the leg of a climber two meters bel...
Nevado Weqqe Suruchi, A Life Less Ordinary. The Panta Group lies in a sparsely populated area and consists of the most westerly cluster of glaciated peaks in the Vilcabamba. The principal summits are Panta itself (5,667m) and Camballa (5,551m). In...
Banner Peak, East Face—Far Right Side. On the 28th of August, Kevin Sutter and I climbed what we believed to be a new route on the right side of the east face of Banner Peak. Two pitches of fourth class led to the top of the shoulder just north of...
Mount Hooker. After a previous unsuccessful attempt on Mount Hooker’s northeast face, Craig Luebben and I hiked from Big Sandy Lodge into Hailey Pass. On August 30, we made a complete girdle-traverse ascent of Mount Hooker. A perched block on pitc...
P 6150, Durung Drung Glacier. The 12-man Tokyo High School Teacher Expedition was under my leadership. We placed Base Camp on the Pensi La near the tongue of the Durung Drung Glacier. Advance Base was placed up the glacier on the 7th at 4400 meter...
Great Trango Tower Attempt. On May 27, Doug Dean and I left Base Camp directly across the Baltoro Glacier from the Trango group and hiked to the base of the gully below the west side of the Nameless Tower, hoping to repeat the Selters-Woolums nort...
Manaslu, Hourglass Route. The climbing members of our expedition were Papa Walter, Luigi Visentin and I. We left Kathmandu on March 24 and reached Base Camp above Sama at 3850 meters on April 2. Until April 17, we acclimatized, getting up to 6500 ...
The Armchair Mountaineer is a collection of fifty short pieces, whose editorial research—the crux of any such book—is exhaustive and caring. Reuther and Thom have evidently culled through everything in which the ascent of mountains is even mention...