Peak 29. The reconnaissance party this year to Peak 29 (25,705 feet) established Camp V on the east side of the mountain on October 30. They say they have found a possible route on the east ridge. Their reconnaissance last year from the west was u...
Ganesh IV (Pabil) Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Shigeru Nakada had hoped to climb Ganesh III and IV from a col between them. They were plagued by illness which kept four of the seven members unable to climb. They established two camps and ...
Middle Troll, Chaos. On June 9 we climbed what we hoped was a new route on the west side of the Middle Troll in Little Switzerland. The route follows the normal route, via a hidden couloir, to the ridge crest, just below the main rock buttress on ...
Wedge Peak, west ridge attempt. Rob Wing and I established a camp near the northwest face of Wedge Peak (10,239') on July 3, after hiking in via Glacier Creek and the Muldrow moraine. We attempted the unclimbed west ridge of Wedge but were turned ...
Staunings Alper. An expedition from Rome climbed in the Staunings Alper at 72° north latitude. Despite bad weather, they made ten first ascents and at least one new route. However, they gave the peaks names here placed in quotes which it is highly...
Nadir Shah and Keshnikhan. The second Yugoslav Hindu Kush Expedition in the Mandaras valley was led by Lojze Šteblaj, and further composed of Stane Belak, Danilo Cedilnik, Boris Krivic, Mitja Košir and Dr. Tomaz Azman. On July 31 Krivic and Belak ...
AndesChile. Late in 1939 the Italian climber and journalist, Piero Ghiglione, with two German companions, Messrs. Nobl and Jorgl, made a successful winter ascent, despite poor snow conditions and bad weather, of El Tronador, climbing both the high...
Peak Free Korea, Variation. Two summits caught Bernard’s and my attention: Mt. Korona (4860m) and Mt. Svobodnaya Korea (4740m). The first one is a granite tower surrounded by a vast glacier. Many difficult lines remain untouched, while various roc...
Ojos del Salado, Cerro “Radioactivo” and Cerro “Ojitos, ” While in the area in the first two weeks of March, our expedition made the ascent of Cerro “Radioactivo,” shown on the maps as P 5750 (18,865 feet), about six kilometers southwest of the ne...
Mount MacDonald, West Face. Most imaginations are caught by MacDonald’s imposing north face, the bastion of Rogers Pass, leaving the retiring west face to the less ambitious. Our approach to the west face was the MacDonald Couloir, which, in the e...
My Life of High Adventure by Grant H. Pearson with Philip Newill.Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, 1962. 16 pages of plates. I recall sleeping soundly in a tent on Mount McKinley some years ago and being awakened by a loud cry, "Crevass...
Annapurna II and IV. Kazmir Drašlar and Majija Maležic reached the summit of Annapurna II (26,041 feet) for the second ascent after sunset of October 22 from Camp VI at 23,800 feet. The camp was regained only at 2:30 A.M. on the 23rd. (First ascen...
Kangchenjunga, Southwest Face. A Japanese expedition, led by Masaaki Fukushima, made the 26th ascent of Kangchenjunga, climbing the southwest face. They established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III, IV and V at 5500, 6170, 6830, 7200, 7800 and 8200 met...
Ananea, Cordillera Apolobamba. Michel Nicollier, Alain Gonnet and I climbed Ananea (19,193 feet) by its east ridge on April 15. Two days later Hans Ruedi Aebersold and Ueli Wannenmacher climbed its southwest ridge. On May 21 Nicollier and I climbe...
Salinas, various routes. Salinas is known as the best place for long, adventurous routes in Brazil. It’s only a three-hour drive from Rio, but the place is wild and peaceful. Just a small village with a café and a small grocery store. It’s possibl...
P5720 and Nevado de Caraz de Santa Cruz. Giuseppe Loss and Carlo Marchiodi were killed on July 6 as they descended from the summit of the Nevado de Caraz de Santa Cruz (19,751 feet), on which they had made a new route, the north face. (First ascen...
The Dartmouth Mountaineering Club, during the academic years of 1948-50, expanded its safety program with much enthusiasm, chiefly due to the original efforts of the 1948 faculty advisor John Montaigne, former ranger, who two years ago had outline...
Streaked Wall, Zion National Park. In mid April, Mugs Stump and I made the first ascent of the Streaked Wall. The 14-pitch route involved free-climbing on the first five pitches up to 5.11 in difficulty. The last nine pitches were on the severely ...
On Cerro El Cuerno (5,462m), near Aconcagua, in February 2010 Argentines Jorge Ackermann and Tomás Aguiló opened a direct route (500m, 90° WI5) on the south face.
FALLING ROCK California, Mount AbbottOn September 19, 1987, five climbers were ascending the mountain in a steep, third class rocky area. The lead climber dislodged a rock slab that slid between his legs and hit the leg of a climber two meters bel...