Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Climbs in Le Grand Brazeau and Peaks above Swan Lake

Climbs in Le Grand Brazeau and Peaks above “Swan Lake.” The “Swan Lake ” area, ten miles southeast of Maligne Lake near the headwaters of the Brazeau River’s north fork, previously reported on by Bill Putnam (A.A.J., 1971, 17:2, pp 386-7) was revi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Himalayas, Nanga Parbat

Nanga Parbat was again attempted this past summer by a German expedition under the leadership of Paul Bauer, but although they reached a height of 23,000 ft. they were forced to turn back by storm and bad weather. They did find the bodies of Willy...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Failure to Follow Route, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mount Cheam

FALL ON SNOW, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mount CheamAt 0730 on July 1, 1987, John Isaak (63), his son, and two others started to climb Mount Cheam (2000 meters). At least one member of the party had mountain climbin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest

Everest. After the brilliant success in 1965, India waited 19 years to put a woman on top of Everest. A seasoned team during May climbed Everest by the traditional southeast ridge. On May 9, from Camp V at 27,800 feet, Phu Dorjee became the first ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, McKinley South Face, New Route Attempt and Accident

McKinley South Face, New Route Attempt and Accident. On April 26, six South Koreans departed from the 7200-foot landing strip, heading for the south face of McKinley off the east fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Over the next few weeks, they pioneere...


Notes AAJ
Europe, Alpine Museum and Library at Munich

Alpine Museum and Library at Munich. We have received from Dr. J. Monroe Thorington a letter addressed to him by Dr. H. Bühler, librarian of the Alpenverein. Excerpts are published herewith :“The Alpenvereinsbücherei was destroyed by bombs and onl...


Club Activities AAJ
Colorado Mountain Club

Colorado Mountain Club. Club-sponsored outings once again included Colorado and foreign travel. The first outing, in early July, was located in the Wilsons Primitive Area in southwestern Colorado. The seven-week overseas trip provided three weeks ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Langtang Lirung Southwest Ridge

Langtang Lirung Southwest Ridge. The eight-man expedition which I led established Base Camp at 4250 meters on September 18 below the previously unclimbed southwest ridge. We placed Camps I, II and III at 5100, 5500 and 6000 meters on September 22 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kande Hiunchuli, Patrasi Himal

Kande Hiunchuli, Patrasi Himal. The expedition of the Tokyo Yamatabi Club was led by Hiroshi Nishida and had five other members. They were flown to Jumla on September 20. Base Camp (12,500 feet) was on the west side of the Patrasi Himal. Their rou...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., New York Section

A.A.C., New York Section. The past year was an active one for the Section: a newsletter was inaugurated, committees were staffed, and a record high in new members was attained. Three lectures of particular interest raised meaningful sums for the J...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Kedarnath South Face

Kedarnath South Face. Domenico Chindamo, Romano Corti, Mauro Farina, Lorenzo Sala, Felice Vassena, GianBattista Villa and I attacked a climb which had been unsuccessfully attempted by Japanese in 1981 and 1987. The route rises 2400 meters on the s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Arunachal Pradesh, Gorichen, Kameng District, 1989

Gorichen, Kameng District, 1989. The team under my command consisted of 20 officers and men from the Assam Rifles and Phurba Sherpa from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. After extensive training and acclimatization, we reached Base Camp at ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram

Karakoram. The German expedition headed by Dr. Karl Herr- lichkoffer and including many o£ the previous year’s Nanga Par- bat group, which left Munich on July 29th to try Hidden Peak, returned without achieving notable results.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Jatunhuma Este and Other Peaks, Cordillera Vilcanota

Jatunhuma Este and Other Peaks, Cordillera Vilcanota. Germans led by Anton Roeckl and Sigmund Roetlingshofer climbed Pacco (5300* meters or 17,389 feet), Kello (5250* meters or 17,225 feet) and Jatunhuma Este (5830 meters or 19,128 feet). The last...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine—Chilean Patagonia, Escudo (Shield) and Torre Norte del Paine, 1992-3

Escudo (Shield) and Torre Norte del Paine, 1992-3. Jerry Gore and I spent four weeks in the Paine region, enduring the expected storms before making two ascents in a five-day clear period over New Years. We established a tent under a boulder below...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Mustagh Ata

Mustagh Ata. Our expedition consisting of Ann Smith, Bob Allison, Bob East, Dr. Kent Davidson, Mary Ann Davidson and me arrived at Base Camp at 15,400 feet on July 24. During the next ten days we established five high camps. On August 4 Ann Smith ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Near Bariloche

Near Bariloche. Already this spring [Written December 27, 1956, at the beginning of the southern hemisphere summer.—Ed.] there have been the following notable ascents made near Bariloche: (1) first ascent of Aguja Frey, another problem involving a...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Carabiner Impaled in Arm, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park

FALL ON ROCK, CARABINER IMPALED IN ARMColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn September 4, Patrick Kadel (age unknown) was climbing Break On Through (5.11) when he fell seconding the first pitch. Before the belayer could stop his fall, Kadel someho...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Western China, Chagragil

Chagragil. Chagragil (6725 meters, 22,064 feet) lies 37 kilometers northwest of Kongur. On September 1, Japanese leader Misao Hirano, Minoru Hachisu and Kenji Nakayama reached the top for the first ascent of the peak.


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Climber Fell on Belayer, California, Joshua Tree National Monument, Bridge of Sighs

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, CLIMBER FELL ON BELAYERCalifornia, Joshua Tree National Monument, Bridge of SighsOn February 5, 1993,1 was notified of a climbing accident in Rattlesnake Picnic Area. Some Marines from a group in the campground...