Chearoco south summit, East Pillar. On May 19-20, Denis Levaillant and Alain Mesili climbed the East Pillar of the south summit of Chearoco (6,127m or 6,014m). This is possibly the first route climbed on the vast east face of this remote triple-su...
Disappointment Peak. In the past this peak has been better known for its fine summit view than for its prominence as a climb. Yet its south face, which extends for almost a mile, forming the north wall of Garnet Canyon, provides a variety of ridge...
The UIAA Mountain Medicine Centre, London. The UIAA Medical Medicine Commission, founded in 1980, has flourished as an international group which now meets annually and attracts delegates from 26 countries. One of its principal functions is to coll...
Rainbow Mountain (Mount Charleston), Solar Plexus Route. The route keeps well east of the great arch on the south face of the Solar Wall, south-facing and often warm in the desert sun. It was virtually all face-climbing, much on small holds on sol...
Chamlang. Our team consisted of Andrew Knight and me as joint leaders, Neil Howells, Angus Andrew, Annette Carmichael, David Gwynne-Jones, Peter Pollard, Dr. Carolyn Knight, and scientists David Collier and Richard Hancock. We set up Base Camp on ...
In January, as we approached the base of the Standard Climb on Frankenstein Cliff, we saw a male climber’s foot fang come off on snow and he scrambled to the foot of the climb. He appeared to have difficulty reattaching the crampon, then began cli...
FALL ON SNOW, "CAUGHT" A CRAMPON WHILE DESCENDING, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn July 29, a climber (45) caught a crampon tip while descending the standard Southside route, falling about 300 feet. He was unable self-arrest, ...
Climbs along the Canadian Boundary. The south summit of Slesse Peak was climbed for the first time 3 August 1952 by John Dudra, Herb Staley, and Fred Beckey.On September 20th “The Pleiades” were climbed by John Dudra, Dwight Baker, and Fred Beckey...
The Peninsula; attempts and ascents on Anvers, Brabant, and Wiencke islands. A team of primarily British climbers aboard Alun Hubbard’s yacht Gambo, was prevented by heavy sea ice from reaching its main objective of the Arrowsmith Peninsula. Inste...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, MOSTLY NO OR INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksIn 1990, there were 20 climbing accidents, one of which was fatal, 12 of which resulted in fractures. The fatality resulted when a 15 year old boy slipped while at the t...
K2 by John Barry is a very different book. Barry was co-leader with Alan Rouse of the British expedition to climb the northwest ridge. They made a good attempt, but after the expedition was stopped by prolonged bad weather, Barry departed for home...
Mount Barrille, Winter Ascent. In February Paul Danewalter, Dr. Jim Olsen, Dr. William Brant, Ed Olmstead and I climbed Barrille, after failing on the German route on the Moose’s Tooth.Gary Bocarde
California, Mount Whitney—On September 5, 1954, Henry Mandolf (55) with two sixteen-year-old boys, climbed Mt. Whitney by the trail and were descending the north slope toward the Whitney-Russell col. They were carrying packs. On the descent to the...
Little Cottonwood Canyon, Various Ascents. The most significant new climbs in recent years have mostly been slabs put up in traditional groundup style. Chris Begue put up Bright Shining Lie (5.11c) and Cold Blue Steel (5.10c) by hand, on lead, in ...
Hagshu Attempt. A British group led by John Barry failed to climb this difficult peak, which they were attempting by the north face. Bad weather turned them back at 5790 meters.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club
Fortaleza, Solo Ascent. I was on my way to the Fitz Roy area, trekking in the Torres del Paine. At the suggestion of some Chilean climbers who had done the route, I soloed the Original Route on the Forteleza. This route, on the west side above the...
Muzart Glacier, ascents and exploration.The British-New Zealand expedition of Paul Knott, Guy McKinnon, and Bruce Normand gained a permit for Xuelian Feng (6,628m), the dominant peak in the eastern sector of the Chinese Central Tien Shan, and one ...
Mount Queen Mary, West Ridge. On July 30 Yoshihito Watanabe, Akiro Endo and I were landed at 6000 feet on the Hubbard Glacier, southwest of Mount King George. We started the next day up the southwest ridge but crevasses and dangerous snow conditio...
Mt. Hunter, South Face, Variation. On June 11, Jack Tackle and I flew into the Thunder Glacier (6,800') below the south face of Mt. Hunter. Our objective was a face at the end of the cirque, but due to the steady stream of serac fall scraping our ...
Alpamayo. On June 18 and 19 Germans Herbert Iser, Klaus Elstner, Heinz Huettl, Dieter Hartmann, Jakob Kirschner and Rüdiger Schleyper climbed the northeast face of Alpamayo to reach the main summit, having found the usual route on the north ridge ...