FALLING ICE, FALL ON ICEAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Wilson, Oh Le TabernacOn March 17 the lead climber of a party of two was ten meters up the first pitch of Oh Le Tabernac, a water ice Grade 5+ route. He was just above his second screw wh...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. The AzMC is a climbing and mountaineering club with approximately 500 members. In 2003 the club conducted several climbing schools, seminars, and master classes. Over 200 students participated in various training sessi...
Ama Dablam Attempt. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Yutaka Watai failed to climb the north ridge of Ama Dablam, the route climbed by New Zealanders in 1980. All reached 6000 meters on October 23. Then came several days of storm. Two members ...
Icing Peak, North Ridge, Previously Unreported. On May 5, 1999, Carl Oswald and I began a ten-day trip up the Matanuska and Icing Glaciers to climb the unclimbed north ridge of Icing Peak (10,955'). After four days and 30 miles of glacier travel, ...
Ritacuba Negro, Northwest Face. Armando Rangel and I climbed on January 2 the imposing northwest face, wholly on ice, of Ritacuba Negro (5389 meters, 17,680 feet), a peak which has been likened to the finer Peruvian mountains for its beauty and im...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDWashington, Mount Rainier, Gibraltar LedgeOn March 21, E. Dawes Eddy (56) fell 1600 feet while soloing the Gibraltar Ledge route on Mount Rainier. A four-person climbing team on the same route witnessed the a...
Moose's Tooth, Arctic Rage. From March 31—April 3, Ben Gilmore and Kevin Mahoney established Arctic Rage (4,500', VI WI6+R A2) on the massive east face of the Moose’s Tooth. See Gilmore’s feature earlier in this journal on their brilliant alpine-s...
FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, RAPPEL FAILURE, BAD WEATHERColorado, Hallet PeakOn August 29, 1982, David Dangle (23) and David Miller (24) were climbing the Northcutt-Carter route on Hallett Peak. While they were doing the second pitch, a se...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTNew Hampshire, Cannon Cliffs, VertigoDaniel Chaffee (20) was climbing on Vertigo. He was on the second pitch when he fell 70 feet when his protection pulled out. Chaffee was caught by his partner Ryan McKeon. He ...
Mururata and Pico Schulze, Cordillera Real. Yugoslavs from Slovenia climbed in the Cordillera Real from May 9 to 31. Aside from climbs on Huayna Potosí and Illimani, they made three new routes. On May 18, Filip Bertoncelj, Bojan Pockar, Bojan Pogr...
California, Sierra Nevada, Sugar Bowl. On 2 January John G. Hurst (33) and Molly Goodman (26) were making a well known ski tour from Sugar Bowl to Benson Hut, on the slopes of Mt. Anderson. Hurst was on skis and Goodman on snowshoes. One normally ...
Fitz Roy, North Face, 1986. A report has been received that Italians completed a new route on the north face of Fitz Roy on January 17, 1986. Details are missing.
P 6960 Attempt. P 6960 (22,835 feet) lies between Baintha Brakk (The Ogre) and the Latok Peaks. Our party was Noritoshi Isayama, Yukio Toji and I. We attempted unsuccessfully the south face and southeast ridge, reaching 21,000 feet on August 7. Th...
Alberta, Rockies, Mt. McGillivray. On 8 July John Bruinink (19) left Calgary and hitch hiked into Rockies to make a scrambling course. He had previously laid out the trail three weeks before. He said he “may go climbing.” He was supposed to have h...
Nilgiri North. The Australian Army Expedition was composed of Philip Pitham, David Evans, New Zealander Mark Whetu, Peter Allen, Peter Lambert, Dr. Bruce Fox, Terry McCullagh, sirdar Maila Pemba and me as leader. We arrived at Base Camp at 13,300 ...
Operating from a yacht skippered by 75-year old Bob Shepton, the four-man American-Belgian team of Ben Ditto, brothers Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll climbed four new routes huge sea cliffs in or near Sortehul fjord. ...
Annapurna III. A Royal Nepal Army expedition of 25, led by Lieutenant Colonel Bhagirath Narsingh Rana, climbed Annapurna III by its north face. They established five high camps. The summit (7555 meters, 24,787 feet) was reached on May 4 by Major P...
Huntington and McKinley, Ridge of No Return. Four young Frenchmen, Xavier Cret, Robin Molinatti, Pierre Rizzardo and Paul Robach, climbed the Terray route on Mount Huntington in the spring of 1993 in a three-day ascent. They then turned to the Rid...
Mentok I, Third Ascent. A Japanese expedition led by Susumu Sasaki made the third ascent of Mentok I (6340m). S. Sasaki, M. Kimura, W. Ueno, and Sherpa Palden reached the summit via the east ridge on August 12.Harish Kapadia, Honorary Editor, The ...
P 6210, Chaturangi Massif, Gangotri. The team, consisting of Jayant Tulpule, Bharati Kale, Bipin Raje, Vajaya Gadre, Devendra Rana and me as leader, camped at Nandanban on May 18, went up the Chaturangi Glacier and camped at Vasuki Nala on the 24t...