Kedarnath South Face. Domenico Chindamo, Romano Corti, Mauro Farina, Lorenzo Sala, Felice Vassena, GianBattista Villa and I attacked a climb which had been unsuccessfully attempted by Japanese in 1981 and 1987. The route rises 2400 meters on the s...
Gorichen, Kameng District, 1989. The team under my command consisted of 20 officers and men from the Assam Rifles and Phurba Sherpa from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. After extensive training and acclimatization, we reached Base Camp at ...
Karakoram. The German expedition headed by Dr. Karl Herr- lichkoffer and including many o£ the previous year’s Nanga Par- bat group, which left Munich on July 29th to try Hidden Peak, returned without achieving notable results.
Jatunhuma Este and Other Peaks, Cordillera Vilcanota. Germans led by Anton Roeckl and Sigmund Roetlingshofer climbed Pacco (5300* meters or 17,389 feet), Kello (5250* meters or 17,225 feet) and Jatunhuma Este (5830 meters or 19,128 feet). The last...
Escudo (Shield) and Torre Norte del Paine, 1992-3. Jerry Gore and I spent four weeks in the Paine region, enduring the expected storms before making two ascents in a five-day clear period over New Years. We established a tent under a boulder below...
Mustagh Ata. Our expedition consisting of Ann Smith, Bob Allison, Bob East, Dr. Kent Davidson, Mary Ann Davidson and me arrived at Base Camp at 15,400 feet on July 24. During the next ten days we established five high camps. On August 4 Ann Smith ...
Near Bariloche. Already this spring [Written December 27, 1956, at the beginning of the southern hemisphere summer.—Ed.] there have been the following notable ascents made near Bariloche: (1) first ascent of Aguja Frey, another problem involving a...
FALL ON ROCK, CARABINER IMPALED IN ARMColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn September 4, Patrick Kadel (age unknown) was climbing Break On Through (5.11) when he fell seconding the first pitch. Before the belayer could stop his fall, Kadel someho...
Chagragil. Chagragil (6725 meters, 22,064 feet) lies 37 kilometers northwest of Kongur. On September 1, Japanese leader Misao Hirano, Minoru Hachisu and Kenji Nakayama reached the top for the first ascent of the peak.
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, CLIMBER FELL ON BELAYERCalifornia, Joshua Tree National Monument, Bridge of SighsOn February 5, 1993,1 was notified of a climbing accident in Rattlesnake Picnic Area. Some Marines from a group in the campground...
No. 12: J. B. von Tscharner, Die Bernina (1786). Oblong, 8 vo., pp. 44, with frontispiece. An annotated reprint of von Tscharner’s poetical description of Bernina glaciers, including an account of a fatal accident to an Englishman in 1701.
Everest, post monsoon attempts. In stark contrast to the unprecedented hordes of climbers on Everest during the spring, the post monsoon season saw practically no one on the mountain. For the first time since autumn 1970 not a single team came to ...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Slavko Cankar, Smiljan Smodiš, Brane Povše, Uroš Rupar, Stojan Burnik, Matjaž Feraric, Iztok Ivakic, Bojan Krajnc, Miran Meved, Miro Pogocar, Stojan Rampe, Matjaž Slapnik, Aleš Stop...
FALL INTO A CREVASSE AND EXCEEDING ABILITIES—Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Bow Glacier. Serge and Christianne Pageau (47), Georges Laurier, and two companions left Bow Hut at 1400 hours on July 15 to attempt St. Nicholas by the south ridge. It had rai...
RAPPEL ERROR—ONLY CLIPPED INTO ONE ROPE, NO RELAY, NO HARD HATOntario, Milton, Kelso Conservation Area, “Jolly Rodger” RouteTwo climbers, S. H. and W. T. from Mississauga, finished climbing the route “Jolly Rodger” around 1400 on August 23, and de...
Khatang Attempt. Our 6-man, 3-woman expedition, which I led, attempted to ascend Khatang’s (6782 meters, 22,250 feet) northeast ridge, by which Japanese in 1982 and Swiss in 1987 had climbed the peak. We established Base Camp in the Lumding Kharka...
Wind River Outing of the C. M. C. The Colorado Mountain Club held its 33rd Annual Summer Outing in the upper Dinwoody Canyon of the Wind River Range, 3-18 August 1946. Eighty persons participated, including members not only of the C. M. C. but als...
Joshua Tree Rock Climbing Guide, 2nd edition, 624 pages, photos and maps, $40.00; Joshua Tree Sport Climbs, 100 pages, $12.95. Both by Randy Vogel, 1992, Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO.Randy Vogel’s first (1986) edition included over 1300 routes,...
Surapatilla, Vinohurara, Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. The Ober-bayerische Anden Expedition climbed from June 4 to 17. They ascended many of the summits rising from the glaciers on the northern rim of the Hichukhota valley. Two peaks, Surapatill...
Mt. McKinley, Slovak Route, Second Ascent. Kevin Mahoney and I flew into the Alaska Range to climb for the month of May. We arrived on May 4 and headed up the West Buttress, intending to acclimatize at 14,000 feet for a few days. After a few cold ...