Mt. Stuart is a Cascades icon, featuring 3,000' climbs on excellent stone or dependable ice. I’d assumed its major faces and ridges had been completed, until I saw photos of an unclimbed 1,000' buttress towering over the glacier, between Stuart Pa...
The Last Hero: Bill Tilman. Tim Madge. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1995. Cloth, 288 pages. $24.95.Bill Tilman’s books are durable steerages through the most remote tempests on the planet. His two anthologies, The Seven Mountain Travel Books and The...
Mt. Bradley, East Ridge, attempt. Jay Rowe and I went into the Ruth Gorge during the last week in June 2002. We first repeated the Orgler route on the west face of Hüttenturm, a fantastic moderate 12-pitch climb done in T-shirts under blue skies. ...
Dhaulagiri II. An Austrian expedition, led by Egbert Eidher, took over a month traveling from Butwal to establish Base Camp near Mukut on April 20. During reconnaissance north and west of Dhaulagiri II (25,429 feet), the leader climbed an 18,000-f...
Manaslu. We were Aldo Bonino, Christine Chapoutot, Marc Ferrari, Jacques Granjean, Jacques Sananes, Monique Vidaillac, Jacques Vuillemin, my wife Gilberte and I as leader. We were on the mountain from September 24 to October 14. We had camps at 17...
(The month of December was one of the coldest on record in North Carolina. The below-freezing temperatures created a variety of great ice climbing opportunities throughout the western part of the state.)Around 3:00 p.m., my partner TS and I were f...
The Everlasting Hills, by J. Waller. 8 vo.; 190 pages, with 64 plates and 4 sketch-maps. London: Blackwood & Sons, 1939. Price 15s.“I have become a great believer in luck ; it seems to me that the mountains are kinder to those who cannot be ex...
Laila Peak, First Ascent. Our German team of five made the first ascent of Laila Peak (5971m) in the Rupal Valley. (This peak should not be confused with the famous Laila Peak in Hushe Valley.) The peak is situated at the right end of the Rupal Va...
Mountaineering : A Solace to Sedate Old AgeJOHN H. STRONGTHERE are more mountaineers, actual and potential, scattered over the country than most of us realize. They are popping up continually. Most of these feel frustrated as they see youth vanish...
Alpinisme Anecciotique, by Charles Gos. 8 vo., pp. 320. Neuchatel: Attinger, 1934. Price Fr. 3.50.Here is a volume that should prove a welcome addition to the library of every mountain lover, whether or not he has ever set foot upon the Alps. Here...
Kichatna Spire, Black Crystal Arête. Chad Kellogg and I completed a new route (to the summit) on Kichatna Spire (8,985') in the remote Kichatna Mountains. The Black Crystal Arête (3,000', 5.10 A2) climbs the striking south ridge of the spire, and ...
At 4 a.m. on September 30, I (Tom Randall—22) started up Eagle’s Way, VI 5.8 A3, on El Cap, in an attempt to break the solo record. I had checked the weather with the rangers at the Wilderness Center and was given, “...sunny for the next two days,...
Rocky Mountain OctopussyJeff LoweTHE FROZEN WATERFALLS on the limestone cliff bands east of Vail, Colorado have, over the years, provided ice climbers with a playground and laboratory on which to improve old skills and, occasionally, to develop ne...
BENNET BRONSON1887-1950Bennet Bronson, a member of the American Alpine Club since 1931, died in Waterbury, Connecticut, on 23 November 1950. A graduate of the Taft School and of Yale (1909), he was with the Oakville Company, which manufacturers me...
Huascarán, Pisco, Attempt on Huandoy. On June 22 the German Alfred Sänger and I left Camp III at 17,4000 for the summit of Huascarán. The day before we had tried to reach the top by way of the Garganta but had to give up because of deep snow. On o...
Washington, Mt. Adams. On 17 September a Mazama Club group led by Lisle Walker (51) and consisting of eight others set out to climb Mt. Adams after having camped overnight at Mirror Lake. They left the camp site at about 3:15 a.m. At the bottom of...
Diran, Hunza, Second Ascent and Tragedy. Our eight-man expedition was a light-weight one. We went up the new Karakoram Highway and on June 24 arrived in Minapin, where we contracted 44 porters. Despite porter problems, we established Base Camp on ...
The Oxygen IllusionPerspectives on the business of high-altitude climbingby Anatoli Boukreevtranslated by Natasha LagovskayaDuring the first attempts to summit the 8000-meter peaks, it was generally believed humans could not ascend the heights wit...
Northern Lindbergh Mountains, first ascents. On June 22 British climbers, John Booth, Brian Combs, Richard Denison, Ian Jones, Dominic Matters, and I departed Akureyri airport, Iceland, in a reserve Twin Otter, the normal plane at that time being ...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1990. Heavy winter snows, volcanic ash deposits, near record numbers of climbers, few accidents and generally good weather summarizes the 1990 mountaineering season in the Alaska Range. Rec...