FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCE, FAILURE OF PITON, INADEQUATE BELAY, NO HARD HAT Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn June 30, 1981, Tom Tabbert (20) fell from a route between Moldy Buttress and D’Arcy’s Buttress, sustaining injuries to his left ring f...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Our expedition left Peshawar on July 7 but didn’t reach Base Camp until July 24. Destroyed bridges, porter strikes and terrible heat made the way difficult. On the Diamir Face we used the Löw-Kinshofer-Manhart route of 1...
The Rampart, East Face. Real-life rotten-rock nightmares on Rocky Mountain faces chased Earle Whipple and me to Glacier, British Columbia. Early on August 29 we found ourselves near the end of the Asulkan valley trail prepared for the fulfillment ...
Stroud Peak, Northwest Face. In August, my wife Tommie and I climbed a 12-pitch route on the northwest face of Stroud Peak. We began at the prominent buttress which extends out from the center of the face and ascended cracks and flakes near the cr...
Fuller Buttes, Southeast Face. The Fuller Buttes are located some 50 miles east of north fork on the Mammoth Pool road. A short distance past the Jackass Creek bridge, a logging spur leads down to within a quarter of a mile of the summit. Approach...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATUtah, Lone PeakOn June 27, 1983, Eric Sieg (17) was struck by a 12-kilogram rock in the side of the head while climbing on Lone Peak Cliff with his partner, Ken Speirs (17). This happened around 1930, and by 0300 on June 2...
Gunnsbjørns Fjeld. Our members were Swiss Dr. Milan Cermak and Germans Peter Koschi and me. We had hoped to fly from Isafjordur by ski-equipped Twin Otter to the Christian IV Glacier. Just before us, a Swedish group flew there. On the pilot’s retu...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 11,1985, John Wiley (32) took a leader fall while climbing the North Face route on Quarter Dome. Wiley stated that he was leading the fourth pitch (A-2) and had placed a Friend w...
Climbs in Le Grand Brazeau and Peaks above “Swan Lake.” The “Swan Lake ” area, ten miles southeast of Maligne Lake near the headwaters of the Brazeau River’s north fork, previously reported on by Bill Putnam (A.A.J., 1971, 17:2, pp 386-7) was revi...
Nanga Parbat was again attempted this past summer by a German expedition under the leadership of Paul Bauer, but although they reached a height of 23,000 ft. they were forced to turn back by storm and bad weather. They did find the bodies of Willy...
FALL ON SNOW, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mount CheamAt 0730 on July 1, 1987, John Isaak (63), his son, and two others started to climb Mount Cheam (2000 meters). At least one member of the party had mountain climbin...
Everest. After the brilliant success in 1965, India waited 19 years to put a woman on top of Everest. A seasoned team during May climbed Everest by the traditional southeast ridge. On May 9, from Camp V at 27,800 feet, Phu Dorjee became the first ...
McKinley South Face, New Route Attempt and Accident. On April 26, six South Koreans departed from the 7200-foot landing strip, heading for the south face of McKinley off the east fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Over the next few weeks, they pioneere...
Alpine Museum and Library at Munich. We have received from Dr. J. Monroe Thorington a letter addressed to him by Dr. H. Bühler, librarian of the Alpenverein. Excerpts are published herewith :“The Alpenvereinsbücherei was destroyed by bombs and onl...
Colorado Mountain Club. Club-sponsored outings once again included Colorado and foreign travel. The first outing, in early July, was located in the Wilsons Primitive Area in southwestern Colorado. The seven-week overseas trip provided three weeks ...
Langtang Lirung Southwest Ridge. The eight-man expedition which I led established Base Camp at 4250 meters on September 18 below the previously unclimbed southwest ridge. We placed Camps I, II and III at 5100, 5500 and 6000 meters on September 22 ...
Kande Hiunchuli, Patrasi Himal. The expedition of the Tokyo Yamatabi Club was led by Hiroshi Nishida and had five other members. They were flown to Jumla on September 20. Base Camp (12,500 feet) was on the west side of the Patrasi Himal. Their rou...
A.A.C., New York Section. The past year was an active one for the Section: a newsletter was inaugurated, committees were staffed, and a record high in new members was attained. Three lectures of particular interest raised meaningful sums for the J...
Kedarnath South Face. Domenico Chindamo, Romano Corti, Mauro Farina, Lorenzo Sala, Felice Vassena, GianBattista Villa and I attacked a climb which had been unsuccessfully attempted by Japanese in 1981 and 1987. The route rises 2400 meters on the s...
Gorichen, Kameng District, 1989. The team under my command consisted of 20 officers and men from the Assam Rifles and Phurba Sherpa from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. After extensive training and acclimatization, we reached Base Camp at ...