1951-071959-0520082008USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock445352877Snow233635531Ice267153River1431Unknown22100Ascent or DescentAscent299458782Descent227337129Unknown249131OtherN.B.700Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock352229067Slip on snow or ice101020713Fal...
Upper Fedchenko Glacier, possible first ascents and tragedy. Our expedition comprised eight current and former members of the University of Bristol Mountaineering Club. Four of us had climbed in Bolivia in 2003; for the others this was their first...
FALL ON ROCK, ARM LACERATED BY CARABINERNorth Carolina, Pilot Mountain State ParkOn September 25, Bennet Harris (30) and Tom Drewes (34) were climbing Arms Control (5.11c). Tom was about to pull the final roof. I was watching him climb extremely c...
José Luis Pereyra, bearded, wearing a coarse poncho, stands beside the Merced River. Equal parts prophetic shaman and mathematician, extreme athlete and major slacker, he pushes his bare feet into the granular beach, takes a breath, and begins to ...
STRANDED, HAIR CAUGHT IN RAPPEL DEVICE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, ETC.Vermont, Smuggler’s NotchOn September 11, 1993, at 1400, Stowe Hazardous Terrain was dispatched to Smuggler's Notch to assist one or more reportedly injured rock climbers. Upon arriv...
Towuangseong Falls, Korean ice climbing overview. For climbers in the Seoul area, the usual place to practice rock-climbing is Insu Peak on Bukhan Mountain. No one is exactly sure when the sport of ice- climbing was introduced to Korea, but long-t...
No one knows what caused the death of Tomaz Humar on the south face of Langtang Lirung. On November 7 the 40-year-old Slovenian started up a wide couloir leading leftward and then diagonally up toward the south ridge. He bivouacked on the ridge at...
Washington, Olympics—Mt. Constance—On June 30, Robert T. Ives (27) and five other climbers were sitting on a ledge 10 feet directly below the summit of Mt. Constance waiting for climbers ahead of them while eating lunch. Visibility was poor with l...
PROTECTION PULLED, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanWhile Biega was being rescued (see previous account), Kirk Bland (33), Luc Mailloux, and Kevin McCracken (23) were fixing pitches on Mescalit...
Chandra Bhaga Group: Daund (5,565m); Hora East (ca 5,250m); Pagoda East East (ca 5,750m), east ridge; Tara Pahar (6,227m), east ridge attempt. Our six-member expedition from Greece originally wanted to attempt unclimbed CB33a. This would involve a...
The Bowmaiden, Lucky Sailor’s Route. This formation rises above the headwaters of the south fork of Cathedral Creek, and is the most impressive of several north faces on the ridge between Mount Hoffman and Tuolumne Peak. Its summit is 10,560+ feet...
FROSTBITE, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 31, a guided group of five clients led by Blaine Smith and Willy Peabody of Alaska Denali Guiding, was forced to spend the night out in a storm at 19,000 feet onMount McKinley. Due to t...
Kedarnath. A 9-member team from Switzerland led by Christophe Peretti failed to climb Kedarnath (6940 meters, 22,770 feet) at the end of July. They were stopped at 6300 meters by soft snow and rain.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India
FALLING ICE, FALL ON ICEAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Wilson, Oh Le TabernacOn March 17 the lead climber of a party of two was ten meters up the first pitch of Oh Le Tabernac, a water ice Grade 5+ route. He was just above his second screw wh...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. The AzMC is a climbing and mountaineering club with approximately 500 members. In 2003 the club conducted several climbing schools, seminars, and master classes. Over 200 students participated in various training sessi...
Ama Dablam Attempt. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Yutaka Watai failed to climb the north ridge of Ama Dablam, the route climbed by New Zealanders in 1980. All reached 6000 meters on October 23. Then came several days of storm. Two members ...
Icing Peak, North Ridge, Previously Unreported. On May 5, 1999, Carl Oswald and I began a ten-day trip up the Matanuska and Icing Glaciers to climb the unclimbed north ridge of Icing Peak (10,955'). After four days and 30 miles of glacier travel, ...
Ritacuba Negro, Northwest Face. Armando Rangel and I climbed on January 2 the imposing northwest face, wholly on ice, of Ritacuba Negro (5389 meters, 17,680 feet), a peak which has been likened to the finer Peruvian mountains for its beauty and im...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDWashington, Mount Rainier, Gibraltar LedgeOn March 21, E. Dawes Eddy (56) fell 1600 feet while soloing the Gibraltar Ledge route on Mount Rainier. A four-person climbing team on the same route witnessed the a...
Moose's Tooth, Arctic Rage. From March 31—April 3, Ben Gilmore and Kevin Mahoney established Arctic Rage (4,500', VI WI6+R A2) on the massive east face of the Moose’s Tooth. See Gilmore’s feature earlier in this journal on their brilliant alpine-s...