Correction, Cordillera Vilcabamba. In A.A.J., 1972 on page 171, it was Huayanay IV on which the Fedens and Nater were turned back and it was Cara Cruz which they did climb to the top.
The Spindrift CouloirScrappin’ it up after classes in the Washington Cascades by Bart PaullIt was my idea, mainly. My friend Doug Littauer was game for anything. The weather had been good: clear and cold. It was the kind of weather winter alpinist...
Caucasus, International Mountaineering Camp, July session. After a week of travel from Helsinki to Tallinn, Leningrad and Moscow, Bill Sumner and I were joined by Americans Dick and Louise McGowan and 52 climbers from six other countries to partic...
Crillon 1933William S. ChildEARLY, on a June morning, after a 150-mile boat trip from Juneau, high above the great La Perouse glacier we caught our first glimpse of Crillon, 12,730 ft., the highest unclimbed peak of the Fair weather Range. By rare...
Washington, Mt. Stuart. On 15 June Douglas Merrill (26) and Robert Stull (26) began their climb at 7:00 a.m. from their camp at Ingalls Creek. The route is Becky’s route 1. The climb included a long easy couloir which opened up into a snowfield be...
Manaslu. Our expedition was composed of Quito Saler, Josep María Bley, Josep Albert, Josep María Molina, Josep Pujante, Joan Agulló, Manuel Penalva, Monserrate Váquez, José Manuel Rodríguez, Andrés Sánchez and me as leader. On September 1, we bega...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, FAILURE TO TURN BACK, PARTY SEPARATED, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTIdaho, Lost River Range, Mount ChurchOn August 4, I.C. (41) and B.B. (36) set out to climb the standard route on Mount Church (12,200 feet) in the Lo...
California, Yosemite National Park, Churchbowl Chimney. On 23 March, Sheffield W. Bailey (18) and John R. Orlowski (18) had climbed the Chimney. The normal rappel route for descent was occupied by another party as this descent route serves four cl...
Cerro Trinidad Central, Las Manos del Dia. In early January, 2012, with support from the AAC’s Mountaineering Fellowship Award, Chris Kalman and I set off for Valle Cochamo, determined to open a new route in the increasingly popular “Yosemite of S...
FALL ON ICE, AVALANCHES, NO RADIO Alaska, Mount JohnsonOn April 14, 1989, Jim Sweeney (33) and Dave Nyman (31) flew to the base of Mount Dickey to attempt climbs of the Moose’s Tooth and the Elevator Shaft, a steep ice couloir on the north side of...
FALL ON ROCK, HANDHOLD DISLODGED – FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Sierra Nevada, Palisades RegionAt 0700 on July 13, J.C. (47) and B.Y. (47) set out from camp at 10,000 feet at Brainard Lake on the South Fork of Big Pine Creek intending to climb the Nort...
Desmochada, Golden Eagle. On January 29 German Alexander Huber and I went from Bridwell Camp to Campo de los Polacos, directly below the west face of Aguja Desmochada. The next morning at 6 a.m. we started up the lower slab to the beginning of the...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, BAD WEATHERAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Front Range, Mount AbrahamOn June 9, 1991, D.M. and O.M. began a climb of Mount Abraham, 2820 meters, along David Thompson Highway, at 0630. This is a long day’s rock climb up a b...
Mt. Reddomain, First Ascent. Not a few virgin 6000-meter peaks still remain in Sichuan, China. One photograph, taken by a Japanese trekker in 1998, attracted our interest. Reddomain (6112m) rises fifteen kilometers north of Mt. Gongka Shan. The fi...
FALL ON SNOW - SKI MOUNTAINEERINGAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 28 at 1315, a climber (32) fell while skiing down from the fixed lines on the way to the 14,200-foot camp. National Park Service Ranger Dave Weber and a Volunteer-In-Par...
La Silla, El Bastardo. Stephan Siegrist, my brother Alexander, and I returned to Patagonia with the same ambitious target in mind: the traverse of the Cerro Torre massif. When we arrived in mid-January 2008 the Torres were completely covered in ic...
Denbor Brakk, west face, Against the Grain. During August I traveled to Pakistan with Damien and Elise Kelly, Jim Martinello, and Jason Sinnes, all from Whistler and Squamish, British Columbia. The party of four left me in the small Balti town of ...
Give Me the Hills, by Miriam Underhill. Riverside, Connecticut: The Chatham Press, Inc., in association with the Appalachian Mountain Club, 1971. 271 pages, 72 pages of photographs. First American Edition.This substantially enlarged edition of Mrs...
Sarychat Glacier, various ascents. On August 11 and 12 Martin Jones, Edward Lemon, Jacob Wrathall, and I, from King’s College London Alumni Mountaineering Club, achieved first ascents of five peaks on the western side of the Sarychat Glacier.We ar...
Étoiles et Tempêtes, by Gaston Rébuffat. 146 pages, 37 photographs, 6 sketches. Paris: B. Arthaud, 1954. Price, 850 Fr.“A guide loves difficulty, but detests danger. … Great dreams are better than souvenirs. … In climbing, one’s companion is as im...