Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Steele

Mount Steele. In the summer of 1977 the weather seems to have been particularly bad and after one expensive, abortive attempt to fly to the southeast side of Lucania and Steele, we changed our objective to the east ridge of Steele and hoped to tra...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Near Bishop, Unnamed 12,000 Foot Peak in Sierra Nevada

California, near Bishop, Unnamed 12,000 foot peak in Sierra Nevada— Whit Inman and his father were members of a group of 130 persons on a two-week pack trip in the High Sierra conducted by the Sierra Club in August. The boy was one of ten ascendin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India Punjab, Hanuman Tibba

Hanuman Tibba. The third ascent of this peak was made on June 11 by four instructors and seven lady students of the Himalayan Institute of Mountaineering, Manali. The original objective of climbing Mukerbey was abandoned when one of the instructor...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate (No) Belay, Miscommunication, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Wind Tower

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE (NO) BELAY, MISCOMMUNICATION Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Wind TowerOn June 30, a climber (16) fell 15 feet onto a rock ledge on Wind Tower. She thought she was being protected by the top rope. The rope went from ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Clear Creek Canyon

Colorado, Clear Creek Canyon—On May 3, a party of five went to Clear Creek Canyon, west of Denver, to practice rock climbing. The party apparently climbed the face of a rock cliff using conventional methods. They then returned to the base of the c...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Temple

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. TempleBill Walker set out to scramble up the easy route on Mt. Temple on 15 September 1979. He failed to return and a search was begun. Another climber found his body near the 10,000 foot ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Swiss Peak, via Central Pillar on Northwest Face

Swiss Peak, via Central Pillar on Northeast Face. Swiss Peak (c. 7840 feet) is situated between Mount Fury and Phantom Peak above the headwaters of Luna Creek. We were elated on the summit to find no cairn or evidence of prior ascents. On July 28 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna I Attempt

Annapurna I Attempt. Jean-Christophe Lafaille went back to the south face of Annapurna I where he had been with Pierre Beghin three years ago when Beghin fell to his death and Lafaille had an extremely difficult descent alone. Now he was on the Bo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Unnamed Peak South of Mount Robson

Unnamed Peak South of Mount Robson. To the south of Mount Robson and south and east of the railroad lies a handsome peak, the type about which you say, “My, that’s a worthy looking peak; we shall have to climb it sometime.” But you concentrate you...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming - Tetons, Storm Point, Trinity Buttress

Storm Point, Trinity Buttress. This series of three buttresses, one above the other, lies directly to the left of the southwest ridge. Yvon Chouinard and TM Herbert on August 1 made the first ascent of this route (III, F8) by keeping more or less ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Vilcabamba, Salcantay, Repeats of Yugoslavian Route

Salcantay, Repeats of Yugoslavian Route. Our Basque expedition had hoped to climb the virgin west ridge of Salcantay but approach problems forced us to the other side of the mountain. Our muleteers left us at the foot of the Incacheriasca Pass and...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Dunagiri, East Ridge Attempt

Dunagiri, East Ridge Attempt. A Japanese attempt on the east ridge of Dunagiri failed some 800 feet below the summit. The leader was Yoshihiro Oga.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Vilcanota, Cayangate I, East-Southeast Ridge

Cayangate I, East-Southeast Ridge. Cayangate I was climbed from the south by Germans in 1957 and by English and New Zealanders in 1974 by the northeast ridge. We believe ours was a new route. From Laguna Pitita at the north-northeast foot of Cayan...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Arctic, A Crossing of Bylot Island

A Crossing of Bylot Island. Our objective in the summer of 1963 was Bylot Island in N. Lat. 73° at the entrance to Lancaster Sound. From Upernivik, West Greenland, we crossed Baffin Bay on the parallel of 75° N. with the ice of the Middle Pack all...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean-Argentinian Patagonia, Cuerno Principal del Paine

Cuerno Principal del Paine. Nelson Rivera, Francisco Medina, Eduardo Párvex and I made the second ascent of the Chilean route and third ascent of the mountain on the Cuerno Principal (Main Horn) del Paine. On January 1 we climbed for four hours to...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains, Lost Temple Spire, North Face, Separation Anxiety

Lost Temple Spire, north face, Separation Anxiety. For years climbers have admired a 220-foot crack that splits the face to the left of the Lost Temple Spire’s north prow. On August 2 Jason Keith and Dave Shewell reached this crack by first climbi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh (Punjab), P 21,760, Dihihokri Nala, Kulu

P 21,760, Dibibokri Nala, Kulu. Marino Tremonti led a light expedition consisting of Ferdinando Gaspard, Armando Perron, Claudio Zardini and Lorenzo Lorenzi into the Punjab Himalaya. After going up the Parbati valley, they ascended the Dibibokri N...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California–Yosemite, Leaning Tower, Roulette

Leaning Tower, “Roulette,” Earl Redfern and I on March 7 completed a new route on the infamous Leaning Tower, a highly improbable route of a mere eight pitches, six of which were a pleasant variety of A4. It was improbable because the route was do...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Churen Himal South

Tukuche Peak. The Waseda University Alpine Club’s expedition was composed of Naoji Sakai, Kenji Shiratori, Dr. Terumi Yatsuhashi, Shoichi Murata, Isamu Homma, Daishiro Kyushin, Hirosuke Kikuchi, Shotaro Miyake, Takao Yonemoto, Eiho Otani, Mitsuru ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Southern Cascades, Oregon: Applegate Peak (Crater Lake National Park)

Southern Cascades, Oregon: Applegate Peak (Crater Lake National Park). On 6 August 1948 George M. Roest (18), a concessioner’s employee, off duty, fell to his death while climbing alone on Applegate Peak. Apparently he planned to skirt the peak, b...