In September Patrick Dougherty and I climbed a great new 800-foot route on the Dana Plateau. The 2011 AAJ reported a route called Butterflies and Rainbows (1,000', IV 5.10+, Brown-Finkelstein), which motivated me to have a look. From resea...

Reported Mountaineering AccidentsNumber ofAccidentsReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— ...

FALL OR SLIP ON ROCKNorth Carolina, Pilot Mountain State ParkOn Friday, February 22, I (J.W. Peterson) was walking along the cliff top when I heard Brian Zimmerman (20) yelling and sliding down the rock face below the Ledge Springs Trail. I called...

Soviet Climbs in the Pamir, 1979. Despite generally bad weather in the Pamir in the summer of 1979, a great many remarkable new climbs were made. A Moscow group, V. Neverotin, V. Boshukov, B. Ermakov, V. Putrin and V. Puchkov, from July 21 to 31, ...

S. Face of Forbidden Peak. Whoever ventures into the Cascade Pass area, in the state of Washington, can hardly help admiring the sharp ridges and sheer faces that lead up to the summit of Forbidden Peak (8900 ft.). These impressive features prompt...

Andrees Land, exploration and first ascents. Exercise Boreal Zenith was an Army Mountaineering Association exploratory expedition to Andrees Land that was organized to commemorate 50 years of British Army Mountaineering. The expedition took place ...

AVALANCHE, WEATHERWashington, Mount SiOn February 15, 1985, Brad Kingry (22) and Peter Vander Molen (27) were climbing near the top of the Haystack on Mt. Si. About 1400 Vander Molen was in the lead when a small avalanche swept him off and out of ...

Correction, Cordillera Vilcabamba. In A.A.J., 1972 on page 171, it was Huayanay IV on which the Fedens and Nater were turned back and it was Cara Cruz which they did climb to the top.

The Spindrift CouloirScrappin’ it up after classes in the Washington Cascades by Bart PaullIt was my idea, mainly. My friend Doug Littauer was game for anything. The weather had been good: clear and cold. It was the kind of weather winter alpinist...

Caucasus, International Mountaineering Camp, July session. After a week of travel from Helsinki to Tallinn, Leningrad and Moscow, Bill Sumner and I were joined by Americans Dick and Louise McGowan and 52 climbers from six other countries to partic...

Crillon 1933William S. ChildEARLY, on a June morning, after a 150-mile boat trip from Juneau, high above the great La Perouse glacier we caught our first glimpse of Crillon, 12,730 ft., the highest unclimbed peak of the Fair weather Range. By rare...

Washington, Mt. Stuart. On 15 June Douglas Merrill (26) and Robert Stull (26) began their climb at 7:00 a.m. from their camp at Ingalls Creek. The route is Becky’s route 1. The climb included a long easy couloir which opened up into a snowfield be...

Manaslu. Our expedition was composed of Quito Saler, Josep María Bley, Josep Albert, Josep María Molina, Josep Pujante, Joan Agulló, Manuel Penalva, Monserrate Váquez, José Manuel Rodríguez, Andrés Sánchez and me as leader. On September 1, we bega...

FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, FAILURE TO TURN BACK, PARTY SEPARATED, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTIdaho, Lost River Range, Mount ChurchOn August 4, I.C. (41) and B.B. (36) set out to climb the standard route on Mount Church (12,200 feet) in the Lo...

California, Yosemite National Park, Churchbowl Chimney. On 23 March, Sheffield W. Bailey (18) and John R. Orlowski (18) had climbed the Chimney. The normal rappel route for descent was occupied by another party as this descent route serves four cl...

Cerro Trinidad Central, Las Manos del Dia. In early January, 2012, with support from the AAC’s Mountaineering Fellowship Award, Chris Kalman and I set off for Valle Cochamo, determined to open a new route in the increasingly popular “Yosemite of S...

FALL ON ICE, AVALANCHES, NO RADIO Alaska, Mount JohnsonOn April 14, 1989, Jim Sweeney (33) and Dave Nyman (31) flew to the base of Mount Dickey to attempt climbs of the Moose’s Tooth and the Elevator Shaft, a steep ice couloir on the north side of...

FALL ON ROCK, HANDHOLD DISLODGED – FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Sierra Nevada, Palisades RegionAt 0700 on July 13, J.C. (47) and B.Y. (47) set out from camp at 10,000 feet at Brainard Lake on the South Fork of Big Pine Creek intending to climb the Nort...

Desmochada, Golden Eagle. On January 29 German Alexander Huber and I went from Bridwell Camp to Campo de los Polacos, directly below the west face of Aguja Desmochada. The next morning at 6 a.m. we started up the lower slab to the beginning of the...

STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, BAD WEATHERAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Front Range, Mount AbrahamOn June 9, 1991, D.M. and O.M. began a climb of Mount Abraham, 2820 meters, along David Thompson Highway, at 0630. This is a long day’s rock climb up a b...