Summary of activity. [Note: this summary supplements individual reports, mostly of bigger routes, below—Ed.] Mountaineering activity appears to be in slight decline in Washington. In recent years the Park Service has been reporting fewer climbers ...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Athabasca, North RidgeOn August 21, Jeff (age unknown) and Andrew (33) were ascending the North Ridge (III 5.5) of Mount Athabasca. After crossing the North Glacier they ascended a short snow/ice gu...
Bella Coola area, Coast Range. For the first time we finally beat the brush-filled valleys of the Bella Coola area by finding a cheap airplane. Although still committed to drive a great deal of the dirt road from Williams Lake to the takeoff point...
Pico de la Fortuna, Ascent, and Cerro Santa Vera Cruz, Ascent and Discovery. The Santa Vera Cruz is the smallest range in Bolivia. With an extension of only 20 kilometers between the villages of Huanacota on the north and Ichoco on the south, thes...
Gangstan, 1977. Shigeo Suzuki led a four-man Japanese expedition which climbed Gangstan (20,215 feet). From Manali they traveled for three days up the Billing Nala to Base Camp at 13,775 feet. Advanced Base was established on September 16 at the t...
Kusum Kangguru, South Face. Takeshi Kanazawa, leader, Hideaki Naoi, Hajime Uematsu, Masanori Miyano and Tomooh Toyoda of the Japanese Workers Alpine Federation climbed Kusum Kangguru (20,895 feet) by its south face. Base Camp was established at 14...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. Predictably, efforts during the school year concentrated on local objectives. Numerous trips were organized to the Shawangunks, Cannon Mountain, Cathedral, and the nearby cliffs in Orford and Norwich utilized by our ...
King Peak, South Ridge. King Peak (16,971 feet) was first climbed in 1952 by Elton Thayer’s party, which traversed the north slope from King Col and finished up the west ridge. The east and entire west ridges have also been climbed. In 1968 Akira ...
Great American Rock Climbs. Richard DuMais. High Peak Books, Wilson, Wyoming, 1995. Black-and-white photos, topos. 115 pages. $21.95.Richard DuMais tackles a topic paradoxically simple and difficult in his Great American Rock Climbs by attempting ...
Petit Dru. George Lowe, of Salt Lake City, made the first American ascent of the Bonatti Pillar of the Petit Dru in the summer of 1965 with the Englishman Chris Jones.
Brammah’s Wife, Kishtwar Himal, 1978. A nine-person expedition from Lublin, led by Walenty Fiut, was active in the Nanth Nala. On September 23, 1978, Fiut, Waldemar Falczynski and Barbara Wilk climbed virgin P 5200 (17,061 feet). A first attempt o...
Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. It was a reasonable summer in the remote sections of the Coast Mountains, but not as many “big” routes were done as in 2002. The most productive group were 10 people from the ACC Vancouver Section who enjoyed...
Climb! Rock Climbing in Colorado, by Bob Godfrey and Dudley Chel- ton. Boulder: Alpine House, 1977. 275 pages, with photos and one map.Climb! is an impressive book, and should be a welcome addition to any mountaineer’s library. It contains a selec...
In September Patrick Dougherty and I climbed a great new 800-foot route on the Dana Plateau. The 2011 AAJ reported a route called Butterflies and Rainbows (1,000', IV 5.10+, Brown-Finkelstein), which motivated me to have a look. From resea...
Reported Mountaineering AccidentsNumber ofAccidentsReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— ...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCKNorth Carolina, Pilot Mountain State ParkOn Friday, February 22, I (J.W. Peterson) was walking along the cliff top when I heard Brian Zimmerman (20) yelling and sliding down the rock face below the Ledge Springs Trail. I called...
Soviet Climbs in the Pamir, 1979. Despite generally bad weather in the Pamir in the summer of 1979, a great many remarkable new climbs were made. A Moscow group, V. Neverotin, V. Boshukov, B. Ermakov, V. Putrin and V. Puchkov, from July 21 to 31, ...
S. Face of Forbidden Peak. Whoever ventures into the Cascade Pass area, in the state of Washington, can hardly help admiring the sharp ridges and sheer faces that lead up to the summit of Forbidden Peak (8900 ft.). These impressive features prompt...
Andrees Land, exploration and first ascents. Exercise Boreal Zenith was an Army Mountaineering Association exploratory expedition to Andrees Land that was organized to commemorate 50 years of British Army Mountaineering. The expedition took place ...
AVALANCHE, WEATHERWashington, Mount SiOn February 15, 1985, Brad Kingry (22) and Peter Vander Molen (27) were climbing near the top of the Haystack on Mt. Si. About 1400 Vander Molen was in the lead when a small avalanche swept him off and out of ...