Sierra Classics: The 100 Best Climbs in the High Sierra. John Moynier andClaude Fiddler. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO, 1993. 316 pages. $25.00.When this new book first caught my eye on the shelf of a Yosemite climbing shop, my mouth watered in ...
Colorado, Animas Peak—On July 24 during the annual summer outing of the Colorado Mountain Club, a strong party of Elwyn Arps, William Davis (31), John Filsinger, and Gus Hallum (33), was formed to make the climb of the north face of Animas Peak, a...
It was cold and clear on the summit, without a breath of wind. Unlikely conditions, considering where we were. Laid out before us were the iconic peaks of the Nepal Himalaya. Mountains you dream about while growing up. Mountains I had already seen...
Mount King George. The decision last winter of the Canadian government to rename East Hubbard Mount Kennedy generated much climbing interest. It quickly became obvious that anyone wanting the first ascent would have to go earlier than the usual cl...
Mountain and Caving Film Festival, Huaraz. Acceding to a request of the Revista Peruana de Andinismo, the French Ministry of Youth and Sport sent 17 mountaineering and caving films to Huaraz. The famous French climber, René Desmaison, presented hi...
Chilean Patagonia, Various Ascents. On Monday, December 29, I crawled out of my cave at 5 a.m. I didn’t think the weather was terrific, so I went back to sleep. I woke up and started to the gear stash cave at 9 a.m. I organized things and at noon ...
Alberta and the Silver Ice-AxeJOHN C. OBERLIN“WE CAME from Japan so far called by this charming great mountain.” The paper was carefully folded and tucked in a recently emptied tin can to be placed in the hurriedly constructed cairn on the summit...
Summary of activity. [Note: this summary supplements individual reports, mostly of bigger routes, below—Ed.] Mountaineering activity appears to be in slight decline in Washington. In recent years the Park Service has been reporting fewer climbers ...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Athabasca, North RidgeOn August 21, Jeff (age unknown) and Andrew (33) were ascending the North Ridge (III 5.5) of Mount Athabasca. After crossing the North Glacier they ascended a short snow/ice gu...
Bella Coola area, Coast Range. For the first time we finally beat the brush-filled valleys of the Bella Coola area by finding a cheap airplane. Although still committed to drive a great deal of the dirt road from Williams Lake to the takeoff point...
Pico de la Fortuna, Ascent, and Cerro Santa Vera Cruz, Ascent and Discovery. The Santa Vera Cruz is the smallest range in Bolivia. With an extension of only 20 kilometers between the villages of Huanacota on the north and Ichoco on the south, thes...
Gangstan, 1977. Shigeo Suzuki led a four-man Japanese expedition which climbed Gangstan (20,215 feet). From Manali they traveled for three days up the Billing Nala to Base Camp at 13,775 feet. Advanced Base was established on September 16 at the t...
Kusum Kangguru, South Face. Takeshi Kanazawa, leader, Hideaki Naoi, Hajime Uematsu, Masanori Miyano and Tomooh Toyoda of the Japanese Workers Alpine Federation climbed Kusum Kangguru (20,895 feet) by its south face. Base Camp was established at 14...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. Predictably, efforts during the school year concentrated on local objectives. Numerous trips were organized to the Shawangunks, Cannon Mountain, Cathedral, and the nearby cliffs in Orford and Norwich utilized by our ...
King Peak, South Ridge. King Peak (16,971 feet) was first climbed in 1952 by Elton Thayer’s party, which traversed the north slope from King Col and finished up the west ridge. The east and entire west ridges have also been climbed. In 1968 Akira ...
Great American Rock Climbs. Richard DuMais. High Peak Books, Wilson, Wyoming, 1995. Black-and-white photos, topos. 115 pages. $21.95.Richard DuMais tackles a topic paradoxically simple and difficult in his Great American Rock Climbs by attempting ...
Petit Dru. George Lowe, of Salt Lake City, made the first American ascent of the Bonatti Pillar of the Petit Dru in the summer of 1965 with the Englishman Chris Jones.
Brammah’s Wife, Kishtwar Himal, 1978. A nine-person expedition from Lublin, led by Walenty Fiut, was active in the Nanth Nala. On September 23, 1978, Fiut, Waldemar Falczynski and Barbara Wilk climbed virgin P 5200 (17,061 feet). A first attempt o...
Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. It was a reasonable summer in the remote sections of the Coast Mountains, but not as many “big” routes were done as in 2002. The most productive group were 10 people from the ACC Vancouver Section who enjoyed...
Climb! Rock Climbing in Colorado, by Bob Godfrey and Dudley Chel- ton. Boulder: Alpine House, 1977. 275 pages, with photos and one map.Climb! is an impressive book, and should be a welcome addition to any mountaineer’s library. It contains a selec...