Kangchenjunga, Indo-Ukrainian Expedition. Our expedition of three Indians and 16 Ukrainians reached the roadhead at Lachen in northern Sikkim on April 8 and established Base Camp at Green Lake at 4935 meters on April 14. We were Vadim Sviridenko, ...
Mountaineering—The Freedom of the Hills, by the Climbing Committee of The Mountaineers; Harvey Manning, Chairman of Editors; Editorial Committee: Nancy Bickford (Miller), John R. Hazle, Carl Henrikson, Thomas Miller, Franz Mohling, Rowland Tabor, ...
Khunyang Chhish, South Ridge, attempt. Kazuo Tobita, 60, returned to the Karakoram to attempt an ascent of Khunyang Chhish (7,852m), a mountain he has inspected six times and tried to climb four times. From May to July, with five other Japanese, h...
The Needles, Merlin Dome, Unbolt the Gate. In December Dave Seres and I climbed this route on the left side of Merlin Dome. Begin on a very bushy ledge system about 400 feet up. From the upper bushes, the first pitch starts up a short crack and en...
Dhaulagiri in the Post-Monsoon. There were six expeditions to Dhaulagiri, all on the normal northeast ridge. The expeditions are listed below with the make-up of the group, the leader, those who reached the summit and when: 3 French and 2 Swiss le...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONKentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir ValleyOn April 22, a male climber (40) was nearing the top of a short dihedral on a trad route called “Short and Sweet” (5.7), located at the Practice Wall. ...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt and Tragedy. The members of our expedition were Hitoshi Sakurai, Nobuyoshi Sakurai, Iwao Ogasawara, Shinji Kobayashi, Tetusa Baba, Shinya Nakashima, Katsuyuki Kitamura, Masaki Akiba, Ms. Yukiko Fukuzawa, Ms. Masae ...
California, San Francisco—On March 25, 1956 Bruce Frederick (16), with two companions, attempted an ascent of Lands End cliff. After his companions turned back, Frederick continued alone, reaching a point about 25 feet from the top before falling ...
Chugach Range. During an extremely rare period of sustained weather, Art Davidson, from Colorado, and I made first ascents of Kuluk Peak (7535 feet) and Peak 7190, north of Eagle River and east of Anchorage. Real problems came on the approach the ...
Mount Forbidden, South Face. Craig McKibben and I made a new route in July on the south face that ascends directly to the summit and lies 150 to 200 feet to the right of the other south-face route. We started on right-hand slabs 100 feet below a f...
FALL ON ROCK—Quebec, Val David, Mount King. Rene Giroux (22) and Dennis Theriault, who were inexperienced members of a rock school held by the Federation Quebecoise de la Montagne, were climbing on Mt. King on October 2. At 10:45 a.m., Giroux was ...
Wheeler Crest. An upsurge of climbing activity around Bishop led to a number of outstanding new routes in this expanse of granite towers and buttresses. The routes are listed south to north: 1) The Great Escape. In March Kim Walker and I ascended ...
RAPPEL ERROR—ROPE NOT ANCHORED, NO BELAY Arizona, Oak Creek CanyonOn April 13, Benjamin Rusev (19) fell 75 feet down a cliff in Oak Creek Canyon. At the time, he was attempting to rappel. Rusevs partner tried to grab the line after Rusev began fal...
Wyoming RockiesDevils Tower. Without the permission usually required for an ascent of a National Monument, the summit of Devils Tower was gained by parachute on October 1st on a wager by George Hopkins, a former instructor of the R. A. F. Unfortun...
Shayaz, Eastern Hindu Kush. Our expedition was composed of Yoshihisa Tagawa, leader, Jiro Tomonaga, Wataru Kawakami and me (f). We made the first ascent of Shayaz (6050 meters, 19,849 feet), which lies west of the Yarkhun River. From the roadhead ...
Mount McKinley. The main summit of Mount McKinley was reached by members of various expeditions. No new routes were made, but an international group, Sepp Weber, an Austrian living in Alaska, Jim Fraser, Jerry Bernas and Rudi Schmid, Americans, Ka...
STRANDED, DARKNESS, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Weeping WallOn March 7 at 2200, Jasper wardens received a report of stranded ice climbers on the Weeping Wall. A party of two climbers was stuck 60 meters above the ground. They had started...
Kamet Ascent and Tragedy. A Gorkha Regiment team of the Indian Army, led by Major H.S. Sahi, climbed the Normal Route of Kamet (7756 meters) via Meade’s Col. The expedition consisted of 21 members. Base Camp was established on August 21 but they w...
Flying Buttress, West Lone Peak Basin. On September 15 Fred Beckey, Dan Davis and I made the first ascent of the buttress to the north of the main peak. Fred led the first pitch, which consisted of a difficult start on microscopic holds; the top p...
Iowa Mountaineers. Club membership has grown to 1,400 after another very active year. Over 2,500 people participated in one of the many instructional courses, mountaineering camps, or foreign expeditions.Under Jim Ebert’s instruction over 492 memb...