Mounts Slaggard, McCauley and Wood, St. Elias Range. On August 4 Bud Bingham, Jon Shinno, Sy Ossofsky and I of Los Angeles, Ray D’Arcy, George Wallerstein and Fred Martin of the San Francisco Bay area and Bill Davis of Denver met in Cordova, Alask...
Mount Russell, The Mithral Dihedral. This excellent route ascends the large left-facing dihedral just right of the Direct Southwest Buttress; the routes probably share the first one or two pitches. Alan Roberts and I climbed it in July via five pi...
FALL ON SNOW, NO BELAY, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST; THEN— FATIGUE, FALL ON SNOW, LOST ICE AXE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount VictoriaA British couple, Luc (29) and Eva (31) Parker came to Canada in the summer of 1994 for a two-week climbing holiday. O...
Nuptse East 1, south face pillar attempt. Snow conditions made climbing very difficult for a noted Russian mountaineer, Valeri Babanov (37), in his unsuccessful attempt at a solo ascent of a pillar on the south face of Nuptse, the lengthy mountain...
Everest. Our expedition members consisted of Americans George Dunn, Larry Huntington, Charles Peck, Steven Potter, Scott Frantz, Dave Hahn, Curtis Fawley, Brent Okita, Paul Maier, Bob Sloezen, Andy Politz, Jason Edwards, Craig Van Hoy, Greg Wilson...
Anyemaqen Attempt. When our expedition to Shisha Pangma was canceled by the authorities, Swiss Beatrice Arn, Austrians Dr. Gunther Fasching and I decided to head for Anyemaqen. For a week in April we pedaled our mountain bikes from Xining through ...
Logan Mountains. On July 7, Lew Surdam and I were flown to "Beaver Lake,” at the upper end of the Hole-in-the-Wall valley. On the same afternoon we packed up to a camp in the broad, grassy basin below the southeast face of "Caribou Peak.” Camp was...
The Ultimate Challenge: The Hardest Way up the Highest Mountain in the World, by Christian Bonington. New York: Stein and Day Publishers, 1973. 352 pages, 24 color plates, 31 black-and-white plates, 6 line drawings, 1 pull-out map. $12.50.Some cli...
K2, via West Ridge. Our international expedition was led by Englishman Jonathan Pratt and me from the United States. We made the second ascent of the west ridge, which was first climbed in 1981 by Japanese Eiho Ohtani and Pakistani Nazir Sabir of ...
CIRQUETRYTrundles from God and other tales of Speed and Freedom in the Cirque of the Unclimhables, Yukon Territory.Jonathan CoppThe Beaver roared, its circa 1957 pistons pounding as we looped skyward within a mountain cirque, trying to gain enough...
Walking in the Alps, by J. Hubert Walker, xii + 274 pages, with photographs and maps by the author. Edinburgh and London: Oliver and Boyd, 1951.“How does one set about an Alpine journey? How is a man who has never been to the Alps to find out wher...
Mount Hajdukovich, Delta Mountains, Alaska Range. On March 18 we drove from Fairbanks to Mile 1388 on the Alaska Highway and lurched five miles further to our first camp at the end of an old 4-wheel-drive road along the east bank of the Little Ger...
BRADFORD FULLER SWAN1907–1976With a heavy heart we write these lines in memory of Brad Swan, who with gentle irascibility brought wisdom and manners, good judgment and humor to us all. Brad was not a great mountaineer; his alpine accomplishments w...
Huantsán Norte, Loyacjirca, and Quitaraju, Cordillera Blanca. On July 5 three Oregonians, Dave Jensen, Dean Caldwell and I started to climb Nevado Huantsán (20,981 feet) from a base camp at the head of the Quebrada Shallap. Our porterless party sp...
STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED (PARTY SEPARATED), EXCEEDING ABILITIES Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Glencoe SpireOn July 20, 1994, a member of the Paul Petzoldt 70th anniversary climbing party heard cries for help coming from the south...
The Monitor and the MerrimacRon OlevskyTHERE ARE JUST two seasons for climbing in the canyon country of the desert, too hot and too cold. Often they are separated by a matter of minutes and one does not necessarily find them when one expects. Whil...
The Good, the Great, and the Awesome: The Top 40 High Sierra Rock Climbs. Peter Croft. Mammoth Lakes, CA: Maximus Press, 2002. 243 Pages. $30.00.How would you feel, having invested in a guidebook, reading in it this? “Above looms THE corner. If yo...
The Ohno Wall, Mount Moby DickDavid Peter JonesI first heard about the immense granite west face of Mount Moby Dick while talking with Bob Kruszyna in 1970 after his return from three weeks in the Battle Range of the southern Selkirks. He describe...
While walking back from Island Peak I saw what I thought was a series of ice runnels on the northern flank of Tsuro Ri, the shoulder on the northwest ridge of Ama Dablam, and decided I had to try them. I believe every mountaineer has demons that t...
Chomolhari (7,326m), alpine style ascent. On 7 May Roger Payne and I (both British) made a rapid alpine style ascent of the south ridge of Chomolhari (7,326m) in Yadong County. We had been aiming to climb a new route on the northwest ridge of the ...