JULIUS REINHOLD BOEHM 1897-1981Julius sat with his back against the warm rocks on the upper crater rim of Mount Rainier. He was writing in the summit register. I looked over his shoulder and read the words, “America is the greatest country in the ...
Nico Sar, First Ascent. On August 12, 2000, Amy Rice and Walter Keller (U.S.) completed an alpine style onsight ascent of a previously unclimbed peak that they christened Nico Sar. Nico Sar (ca. 5800m) is located in the far western Karakoram on th...
In September, Recep Ince (Turkey), Plinio Botterini, Massimo Sacchi, and I (all from Italy) completed the first ascent of the west face of Coban Kiri by a route we named Top Secret. This was my fourth visit in three years to Ala Daglar to climb ne...
AVALANCHE, WEATHER Washington, Mount BakerOn August 3,1986, Ian Kraabel (23), director of Summit Mountain Guides from Seattle, was guiding Steve Raschik (21), Tom Waller (19), and Kurt Petellin (20) on a climb of Mount Baker after two days of moun...
Mt. Vinson, southwest face, first ascent of Double003. In 1992 I’d completed the first solo ascent of a new route on a prominent ridge bordering the southwest face (The Rolex Ridge) and looked across at the huge unclimbed expanse of the mountain t...
FIVE minutes before our expected arrival in Karachi, Pakistan, the loud-speaker boomed, “This is your pilot. Karachi Airport is closed due to flooding from monsoon rains. Our flight is diverted towards New Delhi.” Sunrise found us still flying n...
Rolando had talked about Ala Daglar for a couple of years, both for its rock faces and his friends Recep and Zeynep Ince. This husband and wife team, engineers and climbers from Istanbul, were so in love with the place and its tranquility that the...
Everest: The Testing Place. John B. West. McGraw Hill, New York, 1985. 187 pages, illustrated. $18.95.You might think that some 200 books and countless articles would have exhausted all there was to say about Everest, but not so. There is a specia...
AN ACTIVE GLACIER IN NEVADASome years ago I ran across an article in the "Fifth Annual Report of the United States Geological Survey, 1883-84,” entitled: "Permanent Ice on the Mountains of the Great Basin.” It described a body of ice on Jeff Davis...
Chichiccapac and Aricoma Groups, Cordillera Carabaya; Verónica or Huacrahuilki, Cordillera Urubamba, 1973. (For the full names of the climbers and for their Cordillera Blanca climbs, see above.—Editor.) Chichiccapac (18,426 feet) had been climbed ...
Chaukhamba, Garhwal. An Indian Air Force expedition under the leadership of Air Commodore S. N. Goyal made the second ascent of Chaukhamba in October of 1959.Trisul. The first Jugoslav Himalayan expedition visited the Trisul region of Garhwal. The...
Frequented and Unfrequented Ways in the Selkirks and RockiesNoel E. OdellIT is well known to many that the western slopes of the Selkirk range and of its outlying western foothills are, owing to copious precipitation, covered with some of the dens...
RAPPEL ERROR – THREADED ROPES INCORRECTLY, FALL ON ROCKColorado, Garden of the Gods, Red Twin SpireDuring the afternoon on February 7, a climber (21) fell over 50 feet sustaining serious life-threatening injuries. He had just climbed the popular r...
I’ll Climb Everest Alone, by Dennis Roberts. London: Robert Hale Ltd., 1957. 158 pages; ills.; maps. Price 15s.This is the story of Captain Maurice Wilson, M.C., who undertook to climb Mount Everest alone on the basis of faith and fasting, and who...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942—256—231—019—2196047—464—1237—819—419614...
Portrait of An ExpeditionIn the Fairweather Range, Alaska Dave BohnMUSHKIN traversing through shrouded, muted space on the ice pinnacles of Lituya; an abstraction because we could see no more than five hundred feet in any direction. Thus it became...
AVALANCHE, WEATHER Alaska, Mount ForakerOn June 14, 1992, Tom Walter (34), Ritt Kellogg (28), and Colby Coombs (25) skied from the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to the base of the “Pink Panther” on the East Face of Mount Foraker. Approxim...
FALLING ROCK - PULLED FLAKE OFF, FALL ON ROCK, OFF-ROUTE, HASTECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Half DomeEarly in the morning of September 19, Markus Praxmarer (48) and Thomas Wanner (30) began a one-day ascent of the Regular Northwest Face route on H...
Chinese Ascent of Mount Everest. This expedition was made up of numerous Chinese and Tibetans. They arrived at the Rongbuk Monastery on March 13 near which they established Base Camp. Yaks were used up to 18,000 feet. Camp I was at 18,000 feet, Ca...
Kapura Peak, south summit (ca 6,200m), Wild Wings. In 1999 on the summit of Amin Brakk, after the first ascent of the west face, I looked over the vast mountain range stretching between K6 and Masherbrum and later sought the name of a mountain tha...