Everest: The Testing Place. John B. West. McGraw Hill, New York, 1985. 187 pages, illustrated. $18.95.You might think that some 200 books and countless articles would have exhausted all there was to say about Everest, but not so. There is a specia...

AN ACTIVE GLACIER IN NEVADASome years ago I ran across an article in the "Fifth Annual Report of the United States Geological Survey, 1883-84,” entitled: "Permanent Ice on the Mountains of the Great Basin.” It described a body of ice on Jeff Davis...

Chichiccapac and Aricoma Groups, Cordillera Carabaya; Verónica or Huacrahuilki, Cordillera Urubamba, 1973. (For the full names of the climbers and for their Cordillera Blanca climbs, see above.—Editor.) Chichiccapac (18,426 feet) had been climbed ...

Chaukhamba, Garhwal. An Indian Air Force expedition under the leadership of Air Commodore S. N. Goyal made the second ascent of Chaukhamba in October of 1959.Trisul. The first Jugoslav Himalayan expedition visited the Trisul region of Garhwal. The...

Frequented and Unfrequented Ways in the Selkirks and RockiesNoel E. OdellIT is well known to many that the western slopes of the Selkirk range and of its outlying western foothills are, owing to copious precipitation, covered with some of the dens...

RAPPEL ERROR – THREADED ROPES INCORRECTLY, FALL ON ROCKColorado, Garden of the Gods, Red Twin SpireDuring the afternoon on February 7, a climber (21) fell over 50 feet sustaining serious life-threatening injuries. He had just climbed the popular r...

I’ll Climb Everest Alone, by Dennis Roberts. London: Robert Hale Ltd., 1957. 158 pages; ills.; maps. Price 15s.This is the story of Captain Maurice Wilson, M.C., who undertook to climb Mount Everest alone on the basis of faith and fasting, and who...

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942—256—231—019—2196047—464—1237—819—419614...

Portrait of An ExpeditionIn the Fairweather Range, Alaska Dave BohnMUSHKIN traversing through shrouded, muted space on the ice pinnacles of Lituya; an abstraction because we could see no more than five hundred feet in any direction. Thus it became...

AVALANCHE, WEATHER Alaska, Mount ForakerOn June 14, 1992, Tom Walter (34), Ritt Kellogg (28), and Colby Coombs (25) skied from the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to the base of the “Pink Panther” on the East Face of Mount Foraker. Approxim...

FALLING ROCK - PULLED FLAKE OFF, FALL ON ROCK, OFF-ROUTE, HASTECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Half DomeEarly in the morning of September 19, Markus Praxmarer (48) and Thomas Wanner (30) began a one-day ascent of the Regular Northwest Face route on H...

Chinese Ascent of Mount Everest. This expedition was made up of numerous Chinese and Tibetans. They arrived at the Rongbuk Monastery on March 13 near which they established Base Camp. Yaks were used up to 18,000 feet. Camp I was at 18,000 feet, Ca...

Kapura Peak, south summit (ca 6,200m), Wild Wings. In 1999 on the summit of Amin Brakk, after the first ascent of the west face, I looked over the vast mountain range stretching between K6 and Masherbrum and later sought the name of a mountain tha...

Mounts Slaggard, McCauley and Wood, St. Elias Range. On August 4 Bud Bingham, Jon Shinno, Sy Ossofsky and I of Los Angeles, Ray D’Arcy, George Wallerstein and Fred Martin of the San Francisco Bay area and Bill Davis of Denver met in Cordova, Alask...

Mount Russell, The Mithral Dihedral. This excellent route ascends the large left-facing dihedral just right of the Direct Southwest Buttress; the routes probably share the first one or two pitches. Alan Roberts and I climbed it in July via five pi...

FALL ON SNOW, NO BELAY, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST; THEN— FATIGUE, FALL ON SNOW, LOST ICE AXE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount VictoriaA British couple, Luc (29) and Eva (31) Parker came to Canada in the summer of 1994 for a two-week climbing holiday. O...

Nuptse East 1, south face pillar attempt. Snow conditions made climbing very difficult for a noted Russian mountaineer, Valeri Babanov (37), in his unsuccessful attempt at a solo ascent of a pillar on the south face of Nuptse, the lengthy mountain...

Everest. Our expedition members consisted of Americans George Dunn, Larry Huntington, Charles Peck, Steven Potter, Scott Frantz, Dave Hahn, Curtis Fawley, Brent Okita, Paul Maier, Bob Sloezen, Andy Politz, Jason Edwards, Craig Van Hoy, Greg Wilson...

Anyemaqen Attempt. When our expedition to Shisha Pangma was canceled by the authorities, Swiss Beatrice Arn, Austrians Dr. Gunther Fasching and I decided to head for Anyemaqen. For a week in April we pedaled our mountain bikes from Xining through ...

Logan Mountains. On July 7, Lew Surdam and I were flown to "Beaver Lake,” at the upper end of the Hole-in-the-Wall valley. On the same afternoon we packed up to a camp in the broad, grassy basin below the southeast face of "Caribou Peak.” Camp was...