Diran, Hunza, Second Ascent and Tragedy. Our eight-man expedition was a light-weight one. We went up the new Karakoram Highway and on June 24 arrived in Minapin, where we contracted 44 porters. Despite porter problems, we established Base Camp on ...
The Oxygen IllusionPerspectives on the business of high-altitude climbingby Anatoli Boukreevtranslated by Natasha LagovskayaDuring the first attempts to summit the 8000-meter peaks, it was generally believed humans could not ascend the heights wit...
Northern Lindbergh Mountains, first ascents. On June 22 British climbers, John Booth, Brian Combs, Richard Denison, Ian Jones, Dominic Matters, and I departed Akureyri airport, Iceland, in a reserve Twin Otter, the normal plane at that time being ...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1990. Heavy winter snows, volcanic ash deposits, near record numbers of climbers, few accidents and generally good weather summarizes the 1990 mountaineering season in the Alaska Range. Rec...
Alberta, Mt. Robson. On 28 July about 12 noon, two members (David Brown (38) and Donald Liska (37) of a party of four (other members George Bell and Michael Williams) were hit by a wet snow avalanche while descending the Northeast or Kain Face of ...
Makalu Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Gino Baccanelli, Battistino Bonali, Giuseppe Buila, Giancarlo Domenighini, Giovanni Ducoli, Dr. Sandro Ghitti, Guiglielmo Guzza, Franco Solina and me as leader. We arrived at Base Camp at 5280 meters on ...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. Membership and intensity of interest continue to grow as the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club enters its 60th year. Today the club spans a gamut of experience levels and interests. As a result, D.M.C. climbers can be fo...
FUEL BOTTLE EXPLOSION IN TENT-BURNSAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 16, Steve Whitney (34) and Ben Krasnow (29), Alpine Ascents International Guides, were cooking dinner for their clients at basecamp when one of the two MSR Whisperlite...
Pamiagdluk Island, The Baroness, second ascent of Venus Envy; Prins Christian Sund, Igdlorssuit Havn, repeat ascents and new routes. Sarah Whitehouse and I again visited the Cape Farewell region of South Greenland. We first landed at Pamiagdluk Is...
Switzerland’s Bregaglia in 1951DON M. WOODSOne of Switzerland’s finest granite climbing areas is Val Bregaglia or, as it is known in German, the Bergell. There are three climbing huts on the north (Swiss) side of the Bregaglia Group, the Forno, th...
Quvnerit Island, various ascents. This was my third trip to Greenland. In 2001, with Gabor Berecz, Gunter Dengler, and Thomas Tivadar, Id established a 1,000m big wall route on Pamiagdluk Island. In 2004 I found enthusiastic companions for an expl...
Alai-Pamir Expedition, 1928. Vol. 10 of Deutsche Forschung. Karl Siegismund Verlag, Berlin, R. M. 10.Although this is labelled as the preliminary reports of the German participants in this remarkable expedition, it is a very complete synopsis of t...
The Climb of My Life: A Miraculous Journey from the Edge of Death to the Victory of a Lifetime. Laura Evans. Harper: San Francisco, 1996. 268 pages. $22.00.The Climb of My Life is a truly inspirational book, not just for women but for anyone who i...
El Capitan, End All Route. Aside from routes mentioned elsewhere in this Journal, other fine routes were made in the Yosemite. These included a new route on El Capitan to the right of the Wall of Early Morning Light made in nine days with much dif...
Medical Research at High Altitude. The E-3 expedition (Dr. Kenneth Kamler, expedition physician, and Dr. Christian Macedonia, director of medical research) was in the field from April 21-May 30. There were 15 expedition members, including five med...
OSCAR R. HOUSTON 1883-1969On December 19, 1970, The American Alpine Club lost one of its older and most distinguished members with the death of Oscar Houston. Though a lifelong outdoorsman and conservationist, and a famous fisherman, he did not be...
Morro dos Cabritos, O Céu é o Limite. Brazil features several areas with routes up to 1,260m (4,000') long, especially in the states of Rio de Janeiro, Minas Gerais, and Espirito Santo, where there are an amazing number of towers and domes of gran...
LOSS OF CONTROL–VOLUNTARY GLISSADEWashington, Mount Rainier National Park, Unicorn PeakOn the morning of July 24, a four-person team from the Mazamas Climbing Club set out to climb Unicorn Peak in the Tatoosh Range. On the descent from the summit ...
ROGER G. WOLCOTT1895-1982The climbing fraternity lost one of the pioneers of Eastern rock climbing and the older climbers lost a long-time friend when Roger Wolcott died January 5, 1982. His climbing career spanned more years than that of all but ...
FALL ON SNOW—INTO MOAT, INEXPERIENCE, FATIGUEWashington, Chikamin PeakRandy Schaffer (33) and Michael Wessels (31) were descending from a climb of Chikamin Peak about 1430 on Sunday, July 9, when Schaffer slipped on a snow slope at the 1725-meter ...