Dhaulagiri. A 12-person expedition from Torun, led by Wojciech Szy- manski, included Austrian Sepp Kathrein and German Dr. Ewa Demand. After setting up Base Camp at 15,100 feet on April 22, they placed Camp I at 18,975 feet on the northeast col fi...

Gangapurna. A Polish expedition led by Wojciech Maslowski climbed Gangapurna by the east ridge, placing four high camps on the mountain, the highest at 6800 meters. They sent three teams to the summit: on October 23 Kazimierz Kiszka, Ryszard Knapc...

Hunter, New Start of Lowe-Kennedy Route. In late May, Paul Teare and I made a second attempt at a new route on the north buttress of Hunter from the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. This second attempt also failed because of overly warm con...

P 6561 Attempt. Greg Collum, Steve Mascioli and I attempted the first ascent of P 6561 (21,525 feet), which might be called the western summit of Santopanth. We tried the south ridge, the same route attempted by the British in 1985. We established...

Echo Rock, Window Route. Echo Rock, a few miles southwest of the Moab airstrip, was first climbed six years ago. In 1974 Ken Wyrick, Terry McKenna and I made a new route, the north edge, on this 275-foot sandstone citadel. We started on the east f...

Kusum Kanguru from the Southwest. Brian Davidson, Dick Renshaw and I hoped to climb Kusum Kanguru (6369 meters, 20,896 feet) from the southwest. The approach from the Dudh Khosi was difficult and we may well be the first to reach the head of the K...

Yosemite Valley, Cathedral Spires—On April 10, 1954, Larry Lackey (19) in company with Dick Long and Jim Wilson were trying a new route on the higher Cathedral Spire. All three are experienced mountaineers and climbers. They turned back from their...

Matho Kangri I and III. Matho Kangri (or Yan Kangri) had been climbed only once before, by Japanese in 1986. A 21-member team from the Army Ordnance Corps was led by Major Harjit Singh Bawa. They reached Base Camp at 15,000 feet on the Shang River...

Torres del Paine, Various Ascents. Eli Helmuth and I visited the Paine Towers area from January to February 20. After setting up basecamp on the Japanese Camp, we took advantage of some good weather and ascended the Via Monzino on the North Tower....

Peaks North of Pinnacle Peak. On July 14 Jean Therison, Patrick Taglianut, my wife Yvette and I were set down by plane at the head of the south arm of the Kaskawulsh Glacier, hoping to climb Pinnacle Peak. A confusion of dates prevented that but w...

P 11,160. In July, 1979 two routes were ascended on the east buttress of P 11,160 which lies one-quarter mile southeast of Dome Peak above New Fork Park. John Gottman and Greg Janiec climbed the northeast side, utilizing a large chimney. Seven pit...

Shuteye Ridge, South Face, The Big Sleep. This face is visible from the south on the Shuteye Pass Trail. The formation is just above the letters “Sh” in the words Shuteye Pass on the USGS fifteen-minute quadrangle “Shuteye Pass.” Doug Mathews and ...

Gasherbrum IV, West Face Solo Attempt and Tragedy. Slavko Sveticic died while attempting to climb solo the west face of Gasherbrum IV (7925 meters). We were: Slavko Sveticic, Milan Zver, Jurij Oblak, Pakistani liaison officer Capt. Mohamad Umar, c...

Mana Peak and Nilgiri Parbat, Garhwal. An Indian expedition, led by Captain Jagjit Singh, failed to climb Mana Peak (23,860 feet) in the post-monsoon period. Another Indian expedition climbed Nilgiri Parbat (21,240 feet) (first ascent in 1937 by F...

Reconnaissance, Qôrorssuaq, Southwest Greenland. In the course of an extended wedding trip, we launched a brief expedition to examine climbing possibilities near Narssarsuaq, a major commercial airport. My wife Caroline and I were joined in mid-Au...

Index Town Wall, Waterway Left Route. On July 18, Les Davenport and I completed a route about midway between Beckey’s Town Crier Route (A.A.J., 1967, 15:2, p. 350) and Jim Madsen and Ron Burghner’s Golden Arch Route, so named because the route fol...

Langtang Lirung. A post-monsoon expedition from the Turin section of the Italian Alpine Club was organized to celebrate the first century of the Club. Its objective was Langtang Lirung (23,770 feet), twice unsuccessfully attempted by the Japanese....

Manaslu Tragedy. A Catalan expedition from Spain attempted to climb Manaslu (8156 meters, 26,760 feet) via the standard northeast face but varying the route above 23,000 feet to follow a more direct line to the summit. The expedition’s leader, Enr...

Kichatna Spire, As Good as It Gets. In July Nathan Martin and I completed a new route up the center of the central buttress on Kichatna Spire’s east face. This was the sixth ascent of the peak, with each ascent creating a new route. The east face ...

Venezuela. In February, 1940, A. E. Gunther and K. W. Barr made an expedition into the Sierra de Merida and together made the ascent of Pico Bolivar by a route which appears to be followed regularly by many native climbers. On February 3rd Gunther...