CB 12, Ladies Expedition. Our party consisted of five women, Sachiko Yoshii, Hisako Adachi, Hiroko Yoshida, Takako Ikoma and me as leader. We went up the Chandra River to a point upstream of Batal where a branch of the river comes in from the west...
Royal Bay and Ross Glacier Area, South Georgia. Our team, David Craw, Peter D. Johnstone, Alan J. Knowles and I, was accompanied by a film crew, Bev and Rob Brown. We were landed at Royal Bay in early November and collected on Christmas Eve. We cl...
Ama Dablam Attempt. Iain Allen, and Ian Howell of Kenya, Alastair Stevenson of Australia, Americans Bruce Kleppinger and I attempted Ama Dablam’s south ridge in April. Stevenson and I established Base Camp at 15,000 feet on March 31 and Advanced B...
Sayhua. Pitusiray Group, Cordillera Urubamba. On July 17 I soloed the south summit of a peak in the Pitusiray group identified by local people as Sayhua.* It is called “Yucay” and given as 18,550 feet in a sketch map of the “Saguasiray Massif” on ...
From Tawny Spain. Two climbers from Barcelona, Francisco Marti and Manuel Puig, have reached the summit of Es Vedra, a rock obelisk rising 1281 ft. out of the sea. A Reuter dispatch reports that they started the climb from a motorboat and complete...
Manaslu Attempt. Two Japanese climbers, including Hirosi Hori, leader, failed to climb Manaslu by its northeast face. They got to 7500 meters on October 24.Elizabeth Hawley
Cerro Catedral, Bariloche. In the lake district near the Chilean frontier, Bariloche enjoys a much more favorable climate than further south in Patagonia. The Cerro Catedral massif has a multitude of rock towers (up to 250 meters in height) of exc...
Panch Chuli IV (6334m), attempt. During May a 12-member team from West Bengal led by Samir Sengupta approached this peak via Sobaba to the east. The climbers established two camps on the mountain (previously climbed only once in 1995) but were pre...
Gasherbrum I. Ours was a joint Franco-Pakistani military expedition. The French members were Captain Pierre Lavier, A/C Georges Derycke, Adj. Lionel Mailly, Adj. Bruno Prom, Adj. Yves Tedeschi, S/C Bernard and S/C Philippe Renard. The Pakistanis w...
EAST OF THE HIMALAYA "Overview" "Part I: East Tibet" "Part II: Three Rivers Gorges of The Hengduan Mountains" "Part III: West Sichuan Highland-Yangtze River Basin" The Chinese name for this complex region is “Hengduan Shan,”...
Annapurna II, first winter ascent. The main success winter success in Nepal was the first winter ascent of Annapurna II (7,937m). Philipp Kunz (German) employed three Sherpas from east Nepal: Lhakpa Wangel, Temba Nuru, and Lhakpa Thinduk, the latt...
Here come the helicoptersLast summer I was 10 days into a 100-day circumnavigation of the borders of Switzerland when a body-sized block of rock slid off its perch and took me down with it. My fall was stopped after 50 feet when the rope fortuitou...
I was in Patagonia from November 14 to December 12, 1996. After 17 days of the worst Patagonian weather I have yet seen, we broke through on December 2, when Jim Donini and I attempted the first ascent of the west ridge of Inominata. We thought th...
Appalachian Mountains. On 25 May 1947, in the Cumberland Plateau region of Tennessee, an accident occurred to a member of a rock-climbing group from Vanderbilt University. Five of the seven active participants had had previous experience of rock c...
Hooker & Brown. Jerry Auld. Brindle & Glass, 2009. 240 pages. Paperback. $19.95 (Canadian).So few mountaineering novels exist that it feels wrong to make generalizations from such a small sampling. Nonetheless, Hooker & Brown is more a...
The Mazamas. Club climbing activity in 1992 under the chairmanship of Jan Schmidt included 253 scheduled summer and 14 winter climbs. However, the usual unfavorable Northwest weather allowed only one winter climb to succeed. The Basic Climbing Sch...
Geographical Districts1951-19961997Number of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta35810477525867British Columbia2531005537326Yukon Territory332673000Ontario33861000Quebec27758214East Arct...
Mount Everest, first free ascent of the Second Step, previously unreported. In AAJ 2000, pp. 378-9, Conrad Anker reported on his unsuccessful attempt to free climb the Second Step on Everest’s Northeast Ridge. He rated the pitch 5.10 AO, concludin...
Heroic Climbs, Chris Bonington, general editor. The Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington. 1994. 224 pages. $32.00.Heroic Climbs is an anthology of forty narratives and photographs by climbers (“the foremost mountaineers of our times”), organized by m...
San Rafael Swell, Mudstrosity. In March Strappo Hughes and I climbed the Mudstrosity (350', V- A3+). This tower is in the southern San Rafael Swell, located 10 miles northwest of Factory Butte (the summit of which provides a wild view of the whole...