Panch Chuli IV (6334m), attempt. During May a 12-member team from West Bengal led by Samir Sengupta approached this peak via Sobaba to the east. The climbers established two camps on the mountain (previously climbed only once in 1995) but were pre...
Gasherbrum I. Ours was a joint Franco-Pakistani military expedition. The French members were Captain Pierre Lavier, A/C Georges Derycke, Adj. Lionel Mailly, Adj. Bruno Prom, Adj. Yves Tedeschi, S/C Bernard and S/C Philippe Renard. The Pakistanis w...
EAST OF THE HIMALAYA "Overview" "Part I: East Tibet" "Part II: Three Rivers Gorges of The Hengduan Mountains" "Part III: West Sichuan Highland-Yangtze River Basin" The Chinese name for this complex region is “Hengduan Shan,”...
Annapurna II, first winter ascent. The main success winter success in Nepal was the first winter ascent of Annapurna II (7,937m). Philipp Kunz (German) employed three Sherpas from east Nepal: Lhakpa Wangel, Temba Nuru, and Lhakpa Thinduk, the latt...
Here come the helicoptersLast summer I was 10 days into a 100-day circumnavigation of the borders of Switzerland when a body-sized block of rock slid off its perch and took me down with it. My fall was stopped after 50 feet when the rope fortuitou...
I was in Patagonia from November 14 to December 12, 1996. After 17 days of the worst Patagonian weather I have yet seen, we broke through on December 2, when Jim Donini and I attempted the first ascent of the west ridge of Inominata. We thought th...
Appalachian Mountains. On 25 May 1947, in the Cumberland Plateau region of Tennessee, an accident occurred to a member of a rock-climbing group from Vanderbilt University. Five of the seven active participants had had previous experience of rock c...
Hooker & Brown. Jerry Auld. Brindle & Glass, 2009. 240 pages. Paperback. $19.95 (Canadian).So few mountaineering novels exist that it feels wrong to make generalizations from such a small sampling. Nonetheless, Hooker & Brown is more a...
The Mazamas. Club climbing activity in 1992 under the chairmanship of Jan Schmidt included 253 scheduled summer and 14 winter climbs. However, the usual unfavorable Northwest weather allowed only one winter climb to succeed. The Basic Climbing Sch...
Geographical Districts1951-19961997Number of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta35810477525867British Columbia2531005537326Yukon Territory332673000Ontario33861000Quebec27758214East Arct...
Mount Everest, first free ascent of the Second Step, previously unreported. In AAJ 2000, pp. 378-9, Conrad Anker reported on his unsuccessful attempt to free climb the Second Step on Everest’s Northeast Ridge. He rated the pitch 5.10 AO, concludin...
Heroic Climbs, Chris Bonington, general editor. The Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington. 1994. 224 pages. $32.00.Heroic Climbs is an anthology of forty narratives and photographs by climbers (“the foremost mountaineers of our times”), organized by m...
San Rafael Swell, Mudstrosity. In March Strappo Hughes and I climbed the Mudstrosity (350', V- A3+). This tower is in the southern San Rafael Swell, located 10 miles northwest of Factory Butte (the summit of which provides a wild view of the whole...
YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved USA-CAN.Injured USA-CAN.Killed USA-CAN.195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942—256—231—019—2196047—464—1237—819—4...
Annapurna South. A Korean expedition climbed Annapurna South (7273 meters, 23,862 feet) via the northeast face and the north ridge. They had five high camps. On October 25 Han Sang Kook, leader, Kim Chang Sun, Won Jang Tae and Pinju Sherpa reached...
Northwest Face of Denali’s West ButtressThomas Walter, UnaffiliatedYEARS AGO, I FIRST BECAME aware of the face, the perfect hard Denali route: no hanging ice above, too steep and windswept to collect snow and with easy access to the West Buttress ...
Cholong Kangri (6,182m), first ascent. On September 30, 2007,John Deans (U.K.), Greg Vernovage (U.S.), Kurt Wedberg (U.S.), and I summited an unclimbed Tibetan peak located by GPS at N 28°82, E 90°30. Leaving base camp at 3:30 a.m. we ascended fro...
Cho Oyu. The Indian expedition led by Keki F. Bunshaw made the second ascent of Cho Oyu on May 15 when Sherpas Pasang Dawa Lama and Sonam Gyalzen reached the 26,867-foot summit. This was the second time that Pasang Dawa, now in his late forties, h...
Fitz Roy. In a letter to Toncek Arko, Solvenes Bogdan Bišcak, Rado Fabjan and Matevž Lenarcic told of an ascent they made when they first arrived in the region. It would seem that they had not joined the rest of the Slovene expedition to Cerro Tor...
HACEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 1115 on June 13, Frank Brettholle (51), a member of the “Beer Run” expedition, was found unconscious by his team mates in his tent at the 17,200-foot high camp on Denali’s West Buttress route. His team m...