Huayna Potosi, West Face, 1990. Argentines Horacio and Carolina Godö, Marcelo Pagani and Spaniard Alvaro Enriquez climbed a new route on the right side of the west face of Huayna Potosi, which rose 1000 meters with a maximum angle of 80°. Both of ...
White Mountains Winter Traverse. In February 1974 Dave Sharp, George Miller, Jay Jensen and I made the first winter traverse of the crest of the California White Mountains. The trip was mostly on skis, took 16 days, and was at an average elevation...
Sawtooth Range. The Iowa Mountaineers, 1960 Summer Camp was located on the southwest shore of Big Redfish Lake. The 76 climbers concentrated on the peaks flanking or near Redfish Creek. All of the major peaks and pinnacles in this immediate area w...
Latok I Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Remy Martin, Roger Laot and me. We hoped to climb the Lowe route on Latok I. It took us seven days from Dassu to reach Base Camp on the Choktoi Glacier on July 11. We fixed rope on the first 600 mete...
Scottish Expedition to South Greenland. A University of St. Andrews party visited the mountains between Tasermiut and Ilua fjords at 60° N. During a period of eight weeks a total of 45 peaks were either climbed or attempted, 40 first ascents were ...
Tuttle Creek, Clean Willy’s Escape. Alan Roberts and I climbed this route in June. It lies on the Keystone Wall above Tuttle Creek’s south fork. It follows the prominent crack and chimney system just right of the Locksmith’s Route (Beckey-Roberts)...
Kang Karpo (Meili) Attempt. Our expedition again attempted Kang Karpo, as it is known in the region, or Meili, as the Chinese call it. It was jointly organized by the Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto, the Chinese Mountaineering Associations of Beijin...
California, Yosemite (1)—On May 27, 1956 Dr. Robert Franklin Johnson (28) was killed instantly in a sheer fall from Castle Cliff east of the Lost Arrow. He had climbed up Indian Canyon where there is no trail to the rim of the canyon. He was alone...
Peak 10,105, Second Ascent. This important peak, (10,105 feet) rises immediately east of the Kahiltna Glacier and is the highest point south of Mount Hunter. Its impressive west ridge is obviously the safest route to the summit as the east and sou...
Soviet Climbing in the Cascades. After their successful return from Alaska the Soviet team enjoyed a couple of days of “R&R” in Seattle. Then their attention turned to the mountains of the Cascade Range. During the weekend of June 11 and 12, S...
Darban Zom Attempt, Hindu Kush. The members of our expedition to Darban Zom (7110 meters, 23,327 feet) were Jürgen Diederichs, Heiki Irmisch and I as leader. We approached on the traditional way up the Udren and Darban Glaciers and got to Base Cam...
Santander, Southeast Face, and Other Peaks, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, 1974. Between January 14 and February 5, 1974, a 17-man Royal Air Force expedition led by Wing Commander N.M. Ridley was active in the western and northern sections of this ...
ROBERT J. JOHNSON1931-1993Bob Johnson has gone from us, a victim of a rare and tragic accident in the Red Rock canyons of Nevada.He shared with us a unique community of Boston mountaineers bonded in a love of adventure and self-awareness known to ...
An English expedition, under the leadership of Frank S. Smythe, is now in the field with kamet, (25,447 ft.) as its objective. This is the second highest peak in the British Empire and has been attempted nine times before. The base camp will be es...
Andean Museum, Huaraz. In July the first part of the Museo Andino, which I have founded, was opened on the comer of Los Sauces and Avenida Patay near the Hotel de Turistas in Huaraz. The museum will help fill in details of the Peruvian Mountain Ra...
Peruvian Ascents. The following ascents were made in 1964 but remained unreported until this year. On July 23 G. Murillo, J. Cancio Anco and F. Gutiérrez climbed Aricoma Sur (18,225 feet), where they named a glacier for César Morales Arnao, and Ar...
Gurney Peak, Shadows-Sunshine Couloir; Citadel, East Buttress and Avalanche Peak, South Buttress, Kichatna Spires. In May Jack Lewis and I spent 25 days on the Shadows Glacier. During this time we had 18 days of good weather. We took five days cli...
Ali Ratni Tibba. This very difficult peak (18,013 feet) at the head of the Malana Nala was climbed early in August by an Indian team consisting of Ravi A. Kamath, Jayant Khadalia, Jamshed Homiar, Dr. Suresh Agrawal and Pasang Namgyal.Kamal K. Guha...
Maiktoli. This expedition was composed of Gillem Arias, leader, Josep Alvarez, Manuel Figueras, Joan Mallofré, Xavier Noguer and Joan Oliva. After a five-day approach up the Rishi Gorge, they reached Base Camp on September 25 at Sarsonpatal at 13,...
Tunstall’s Tooth. This pinnacle is about 20 miles from Lynchburg and 2½ miles north of Big Island on U.S. Highway 501. Although across the James River, there is a bridge two miles farther north. Tunstall’s Tooth is of hard limestone and from its b...