California, Yosemite (1)—On May 27, 1956 Dr. Robert Franklin Johnson (28) was killed instantly in a sheer fall from Castle Cliff east of the Lost Arrow. He had climbed up Indian Canyon where there is no trail to the rim of the canyon. He was alone...
Peak 10,105, Second Ascent. This important peak, (10,105 feet) rises immediately east of the Kahiltna Glacier and is the highest point south of Mount Hunter. Its impressive west ridge is obviously the safest route to the summit as the east and sou...
Soviet Climbing in the Cascades. After their successful return from Alaska the Soviet team enjoyed a couple of days of “R&R” in Seattle. Then their attention turned to the mountains of the Cascade Range. During the weekend of June 11 and 12, S...
Darban Zom Attempt, Hindu Kush. The members of our expedition to Darban Zom (7110 meters, 23,327 feet) were Jürgen Diederichs, Heiki Irmisch and I as leader. We approached on the traditional way up the Udren and Darban Glaciers and got to Base Cam...
Santander, Southeast Face, and Other Peaks, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, 1974. Between January 14 and February 5, 1974, a 17-man Royal Air Force expedition led by Wing Commander N.M. Ridley was active in the western and northern sections of this ...
ROBERT J. JOHNSON1931-1993Bob Johnson has gone from us, a victim of a rare and tragic accident in the Red Rock canyons of Nevada.He shared with us a unique community of Boston mountaineers bonded in a love of adventure and self-awareness known to ...
An English expedition, under the leadership of Frank S. Smythe, is now in the field with kamet, (25,447 ft.) as its objective. This is the second highest peak in the British Empire and has been attempted nine times before. The base camp will be es...
Andean Museum, Huaraz. In July the first part of the Museo Andino, which I have founded, was opened on the comer of Los Sauces and Avenida Patay near the Hotel de Turistas in Huaraz. The museum will help fill in details of the Peruvian Mountain Ra...
Peruvian Ascents. The following ascents were made in 1964 but remained unreported until this year. On July 23 G. Murillo, J. Cancio Anco and F. Gutiérrez climbed Aricoma Sur (18,225 feet), where they named a glacier for César Morales Arnao, and Ar...
Gurney Peak, Shadows-Sunshine Couloir; Citadel, East Buttress and Avalanche Peak, South Buttress, Kichatna Spires. In May Jack Lewis and I spent 25 days on the Shadows Glacier. During this time we had 18 days of good weather. We took five days cli...
Ali Ratni Tibba. This very difficult peak (18,013 feet) at the head of the Malana Nala was climbed early in August by an Indian team consisting of Ravi A. Kamath, Jayant Khadalia, Jamshed Homiar, Dr. Suresh Agrawal and Pasang Namgyal.Kamal K. Guha...
Maiktoli. This expedition was composed of Gillem Arias, leader, Josep Alvarez, Manuel Figueras, Joan Mallofré, Xavier Noguer and Joan Oliva. After a five-day approach up the Rishi Gorge, they reached Base Camp on September 25 at Sarsonpatal at 13,...
Tunstall’s Tooth. This pinnacle is about 20 miles from Lynchburg and 2½ miles north of Big Island on U.S. Highway 501. Although across the James River, there is a bridge two miles farther north. Tunstall’s Tooth is of hard limestone and from its b...
CB 12, Ladies Expedition. Our party consisted of five women, Sachiko Yoshii, Hisako Adachi, Hiroko Yoshida, Takako Ikoma and me as leader. We went up the Chandra River to a point upstream of Batal where a branch of the river comes in from the west...
Royal Bay and Ross Glacier Area, South Georgia. Our team, David Craw, Peter D. Johnstone, Alan J. Knowles and I, was accompanied by a film crew, Bev and Rob Brown. We were landed at Royal Bay in early November and collected on Christmas Eve. We cl...
Ama Dablam Attempt. Iain Allen, and Ian Howell of Kenya, Alastair Stevenson of Australia, Americans Bruce Kleppinger and I attempted Ama Dablam’s south ridge in April. Stevenson and I established Base Camp at 15,000 feet on March 31 and Advanced B...
Sayhua. Pitusiray Group, Cordillera Urubamba. On July 17 I soloed the south summit of a peak in the Pitusiray group identified by local people as Sayhua.* It is called “Yucay” and given as 18,550 feet in a sketch map of the “Saguasiray Massif” on ...
From Tawny Spain. Two climbers from Barcelona, Francisco Marti and Manuel Puig, have reached the summit of Es Vedra, a rock obelisk rising 1281 ft. out of the sea. A Reuter dispatch reports that they started the climb from a motorboat and complete...
Manaslu Attempt. Two Japanese climbers, including Hirosi Hori, leader, failed to climb Manaslu by its northeast face. They got to 7500 meters on October 24.Elizabeth Hawley
Cerro Catedral, Bariloche. In the lake district near the Chilean frontier, Bariloche enjoys a much more favorable climate than further south in Patagonia. The Cerro Catedral massif has a multitude of rock towers (up to 250 meters in height) of exc...