Bhrikuti Sail (6,361m), probable second ascent. On May 14 Mick Chapman, Bryan Fruish, and I (all U.K.), Bett Koch, Liz Armitage, and Peter Allen (all Australia), with Pasang Sherpa, Mingba Sherpa, and Lhakpa Sherpa, made what is probably the secon...
Yosemite Climbing Club. The Yosemite Climbing Club was formed in 1959 for the purpose of bringing together devoted climbers interested in raising the standards of American climbing. Another purpose is to assemble a collection of varied, specialize...
Same Board, Different RulesMichael Kennedy and John Steiger“Gee, in the old days people used aid to make things easier, nowadays they use aid to make things harder.”—Juanita Donini, comment on the debateROCK CLIMBING in the U.S. has been in a stat...
A.A.C., New York Section. The year 1991 was a busy and productive one for the Section. Alpinfilm ’91, a festival of prize-winning mountain films from all over the world, attracted another large and enthusiastic audience to Manhattan’s Florence Gou...
Jopuno, southwest face and west ridge, attempt; history and corrections. In the autumn of 2009 Julie-Ann Clyma and I were back in Western Sikkim and with Hugh Sheehan made an attempt on Jopuno. Although it became cloudy on many afternoons, we did ...
McGinnis Peak, Southeast Ridge. The southeast ridge of McGinnis Peak has acquired a local fame from the very loose rock and corniced knife-edged portion of its lower part. As a member of a four-man party which attempted to gain access to the elusi...
Camp 4, Celebration. This gathering was one of the finest occasions ever held in Yosemite. After several years of rumors and heated discussions about nearby construction changes that would have altered our walk-in climbers’ camp beyond recognition...
LOSS OF CONTROL ON VOLUNTARY GLISSADE—Washington, Mt. Rainier. On February 13, party leader Jerry Hasfjord (40), Paul Neilsen (23), Jack Wilkins (55), and Dan Lepeska (21) left the Tahoma Creek Campground for a climb of Success Cleaver. If the cli...
McGee Spire, Tombstone Range. In early August Dave Craft, Al DeMaria, Claude Suhl and I made a brief visit to the McGee Lake region, east and north of Dawson City. On August 5, Suhl and I climbed the spire which stands west of Mount McGee. Followi...
Cloud Dancers, Portraits of North American Mountaineers. Jonathan Waterman, editor. The American Alpine Club Press, Golden, Colorado, 1993. 323 pages. $16.95.Jonathan Waterman’s editorial claim that “the most influential mountaineers, as well as s...
Four Ascents in the Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier. Some ten miles southeast of Denali lie the Ruth Amphitheater and the Great Gorge. Here rise Mount Huntington, the Moose’s Tooth, Dan Beard and the peaks of the Great Gorge.* The peaks of the Rut...
Mount Deborah, West Face, A Third New Route. Though virgin summits are fast disappearing, new routes are everywhere and the aura of Alaska retains its remoteness. Remoteness and grandeur increase challenge and reward. A high-mountain bivouac which...
Gasherbrum II East, first ascent from China. On June 12, after two days by jeep from Kashgar to Mazar, we started our approach to base camp with 40 camels. On some of the river crossings during our trek to the Gasherbrum Glacier, the water reached...
Burkett, Kates Needle and Other Ascents, Stikine Icefield. The Scottish- Canadian Coast Range Expedition finally consisted of Norman Harthill, John Denton, David Wessel, Kenneth Bryan, George Liddle, Edward Thompson and myself as leader. The area ...
TWO giant volcanoes, one extinct and the other in the heyday of violent activity, were still fascinating the imagination of Ecuadorians, when in 1927 the author led a zoological expedition to the country that straddles the equator. One of them had...
Torre del Parón and La Esfinge. The granite formations of the Parón Valley offer the best granite climbing of the Cordillera Blanca but have suffered from misinformation in the past. An article earlier in this journal gives an overview of their hi...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The summer of 1964 saw H.M.C. members mountaineering in a dozen ranges in at least three continents. Undergraduates took part in five different expeditions in the Western Hemisphere. One of them, Hank Abrons, joined Gr...
The World’s Great Mountains: Not the Height You ThinkTerris MooreIt has been little noted, except perhaps by geophysicists and mountaineers, that Mount Everest is not, if absolute methods of measurement are used, the highest mountain in the world....
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Another expedition led by Dr. Karl M. Herrligkoffer returned to and climbed the 13,000-foot-high Diamir (northwest) face of Nanga Parbat (26,600 feet), where they had made a brilliant reconnaissance to 23,450 feet in 196...
Twice as NiceThe all~free ascent of two El Capitan routes in a single day.Tommy CaldwellSunday, October 30, 2005I’m strolling nervously to the base of the Nose with Beth and her dad, who will carry my shoes and empty water bottle back to the car. ...