Cerro Standhardt, Potter Route and other firsts. I arrived in El Chalten on January 29 to meet Dean Potter, who had been in Patagonia for a month and had a high camp set up at Noruegos, for the Torre group. The weather turned good the minute I got...
New York—Tongue Mountain Cliff, Lake George: On October 12, 1952 two members of the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club Michael Marx and Peter Robinson, invited two Holyoke girls, Mary Frymoyer and Edith Swanson, to do some climbing on Tongue Mountain. ...
Kane Peak, Kokanee Group, Selkirks. In the latter part of June, Pat Hoadley, Stu Krebs, Stan Shepard and I packed in to the Joker Lakes in the Kokanee Group of the southern Selkirks. On June 23 we made what was apparently the first ascent of Kane ...
HAPE, FROSTBITE, PARTY SEPARATED, INEXPERIENCE, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 10, 1990, at the top of the West Rib (5975 meters) on Mount McKinley, Miroaki Ito (38) died from pulmonary edema. Ito had been left here, since he was feeling poo...
The Ascent of Mount BonaAllen CarpÉTHE St. Elias range, which borders the coast of the Gulf of Alaska from Cross Sound to a somewhat indefinite boundary with the Chugach mountains west of Mt. St. Elias, contains some of the grandest elevations of ...
It is, hands down, the hardest face in the Canadian Rockies. Five thousand feet of sheer, black, and north-facing limestone, steeper than the Eiger, one and a half times as high as El Cap, a great dark cape of a peak. Hundred- foot seracs calve ...
Hand of Fatima, Suri Tondo, north summit. In February Eliza Kubarska and I, from Poland, arrived beneath the famous sandstone towers known as the Hand of Fatima. Our main objectives were a new route on one of the main towers that make up the Hand ...
From Vinowara to JallawayaAn Etymological Explorationby Liam P. O’BrienThe Vinowara region of the Cordillera Real of Bolivia begins at the 5200-meter Chachakumani Pass located just south of the Chachakumani massif. The range then continues southea...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, UNROPED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount FisherFisher Peak (3053 meters) was the day's objective for Thomas W. (36) on July 22, 1992. He bicycled in from Elbow Falls with his friend J. M. to get close to the moun...
Peak 6571m, West Face. Peak 6571m in the Khumbu region lies six kilometers south of Ama Dablam and five kilometers east-northeast of Kangtega on the divide between the Hinku and Mingbo watersheds in the Hinku Himal subrange. On the Schneider Khumb...
First Ascent of Mount HessAlston PaigeMOUNT Hess is one of the four highest mountains in the Hayes Range as seen from Fairbanks, Alaska. Mount Hess (12,030 ft.) and Mount Deborah (12,540 ft.), together, are known as the Cathedral Peaks. From Fairb...
Coming down from Nevado Illimani we encountered a “brujo”— witchdoctor—who had lived his 80 years in the mountain’s shadow. He had spent the previous two nights, at the request of some peasant miners, out somewhere below the glaciers, asking per...
Oktawian Ciez, Jakub Galka, Mariusz Norwecki, Piotr Picheta, Jakub Wrona, and I formed the Krakow High Mountain Club expedition to the Western Kokshaal-too. We wanted to explore Dzhirnagaktu Valley, which lies immediately west of the Kyzyl Asker G...
Kolahoi, Southeast Rib. On June 25, Jan Harris and I made what may have been the first ascent of the southeast rib of Kolahoi. There were nine pitches of difficult mixed snow and rock.Keith Brown
K 5,944m (Korada Peak), first ascent, Bostjan Arcon Memorial Route; Drifika (6,447m), White River Route; Drifika, southeast face attempt; valley rock route, Autobahn to Amsterdam. There are many interesting rock towers and mixed faces in the Nangm...
Cho Oyu Winter Ascent and Tragedy, 1994. The last of the winter expeditions to get to their Base Camp were two Swiss and four Spaniards, who got to the foot of Cho Oyu from Nepal on January 8, 1994. They were not a closely knit party but a collect...
CATHERINE M. FREER 1949–1987“What do you mean?” I imagine Catherine saying, looking over my shoulder while I struggle with writing this. Well, I reply, I want to remind others of our memory of you. It is a fearsome responsibility. “Why do you feel...
Trango Tower, Eternal Flame, all-female ascent; Garda Peak, Karakoram Khush, first free ascent. The female part of the Slovenian expedition reported above comprised Tina Di Batista, Aleksandra Voglar, and I. We definitely provided the spice to the...
DAVID ROSS BROWER1912-2000Cancer claimed David Brower on November 5. During October, in pain and knowing that only weeks were left, he could have gone quietly into the night. But no, he wanted all possible medical assistance until the very end, fo...
The Art of Adventure. Galen Rowell. Collins Publishers, San Francisco, 1989. 166 pages, 127 color photographs. $45.00.There is no doubt that Galen Rowell is one of the great photographers of the world. This is clearly apparent in this new and gorg...