Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rocks—Dislodged By Climber, Fall on Rock, Colorado, Boulder Canyon

FALLING ROCKS—DISLODGED BY CUMBER, FALL ON ROCK Colorado, Boulder CanyonOn October 25, 1989, Farrell Ballenger (42) and Loren Trout (44) planned to climb from Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon West along a mostly buried aquaduct to Baker Reservoir in ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Utah—Wasatch Mountains

Utah—Wasatch Mountains: On January 31, 1953, Arthur Owen (25), Fred Payne (19) and Jack Payne (17) started on a ski mountaineering trip up White Pine Canyon intending to bivouac at timberline and to climb the “Matterhorn of the Wasatch” the next d...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Streaked Wall, Zion National Park

Streaked Wall, Zion National Park. Paul Gagner and Eric Brand climbed a new route, the third, Latitudes (VI, 5.10, A4), on Zion’s Streaked Wall in early May. It ascends a crack system starting just 50 feet right of Tales of Scorpio. Five mostly fr...


In Memoriam ANAM
Colorado, Sierra Blanca

Colorado, Sierra Blanca. On 28 May George Bell, Larry Campbell (30), Ross Harder, Bill Hendry, Karl Horak, and David Michael, while descending a snow face on the north side of the east ridge of Sierra Blanca, set off a wet snow avalanche. The slid...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Temple

AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn August 9, 1993, two experienced climbers, Matt and Julie Culberson (both 35), started up the Aemmer Couloir on Mount Temple (3545 meters) at 0700, planning to do the East Ridge route in one day. Cl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Kumaun, Panch Chuli III, Attempt

Punch Chuli III, attempt. A 10-member expedition, sponsored by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation and led by Purmal Singh Dharmashaku, claimed to have made the first ascent of 6312m Panch Chuli III from the east, with Tarun Roy from Delhi and th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak)

Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak). An expedition of 12 Japanese from Okayama University was led by Haruhisa Kuroda. It repeated the route on the southwest ridge, first climbed by Yugoslavs in 1977. A new variant was made in the lower part until they reac...


In Memoriam AAJ
Ansel Easton Adams, 1902-1984

ANSEL EASTON ADAMS1902-1984Ansel Easton Adams was bom on February 20, 1902 in San Francisco, the only child of Charles and Olive Adams. He married Virginia Best of Yosemite Park. He moved from Yosemite to his family home in San Francisco and final...


Book Reviews AAJ
Henriette d'Angeville au Mont-Blanc

Henriette d’Angeville au Mont-Blanc, by Émile Gaillard. 159 pp., numerous illustrations, Chambéry, 1947: Collection le Roc et l’Eau, Éditions Lire.When Henriette d’Angeville gained the summit of Mont Blanc in 1838, little more than 40 years had pa...


In Memoriam AAJ
Waldo H. Holcombe, 1912-1986

WALDO H. HOLCOMBE 1912-1986Waldo H. Holcombe became interested in mountains when he spent a year at school in Switzerland, and his enjoyment of them never left him. While in college he climbed and skied in the White Mountains and on Katahdin, and ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Charakusa Valley, K7, Attempt

K7, attempt. Thanks to the Lyman Spitzer and Shipton-Tilman awards, in late summer Scott DeCapio and I, traveling with our Canadian friends Max Turgeon and Louis-Philippe Ménard, tried some climbs in the Charakusa Valley. First we got horribly off...


Notes AAJ
The Freshfield and Lyell Glaciers

The Fresh field, and Lyell Glaciers were remeasured on July 27 and 31, 1944, by Mr. and Mrs. D. Measuroll, J. M. Thorington and E. Feuz, Jr., earlier reports on which will be found in A. A. J. i, 410; iii, 220 and C. A. J. xxv, 116; xx, 138.The Fr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Wrangell-St. Elias Range, Peak 10,522', Ascent

Peak 10,522', Ascent. On May 29, Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air flew me into the upper Chisana Glacier at around 8,300 feet on the southeast side of this mountain. I was climbing alone since I had been unable to locate a climbing partner. In e...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Fairweather, Southeast Buttress, 1986

Fairweather, Southeast Buttress, 1986. On June 27, 1986, Tad Pfeffer, Linda Sugiyama and I were flown by Mike Ivers to a camp on the upper Fairweather Glacier at 6000 feet. We benefited from the new rules under which airplane landings appear to be...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Hiunchuli, Southeast Face

Hiunchuli, Southeast Face. The second ascent of this mountain, south of Annapurna, was accomplished by our expedition on October 8. Since the first ascent by a team of U.S. Peace Corps volunteers led by Craig Anderson in 1971, Hiunchuli had withst...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Tellot Glacier, Various Activity and New Routes

Tellot Glacier, Various Activity and New Routes. Dead. Not even a flicker when you turn it on. It was time to go home—not the planned time, not the scheduled time, but nonetheless, it was time.Mike Spagnut, Mark Hartley, and I were flown to Plumme...


Accident Reports AAJ
South America, Chilean—Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Torre Tragedy

Cerro Torre Tragedy. A French climber, Pierre Paul Farges, who was attempting a solo climb of Cerro Torre in March, failed well short of his goal. His body was found deep in a crevasse on the glacier approach.Vojslav Arko, Club Andino Bariloche


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Jangyaraju, Cordillera Blanca

Jangyaraju, Cordillera Blanca. On July 18 Steve Dzuranin, Ivan Jirak, and Joseph Muck, of the Explorers Club of Pittsburgh, made the first ascent of Jangyaraju (18,655 feet), which lies northwest of Ocshapalca and Ranrapalca. Base camp was on a sm...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine–Chilean Patagonia, Fiz Roy, Argentine Route on Southeast Buttress

Fitz Roy, Argentine Route on Southeast Buttress. Austrians Rudi Mayr and Robert Purtscheller repeated the Argentine route on Fitz Roy a few days after Galen Rowell, from November 5 to 18. They noted, “We had good weather, much ice in the cracks. F...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga, North Face Attempt

Kangchenjunga, North Face Attempt. Terry Tremble, Dr. Carol Brand-Maher and I attempted to climb the north face of Kangchenjunga. Dr. Brand-Maher had no prior experience in mountaineering. The walk-in from Hille to Pang Pema with 33 porters took 1...