Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South American, Tierra del Fuego, Attempt to Get to Antartica

Attempt to get to Antarctica. In December Canadians had hoped to fly to Antarctica to climb the Vinson Massif. They started with the same plane used by Bonington and the Americans in 1983 but they had British pilots. After difficulties about landi...


Club Activities AAJ
Stanford Alpine Club

Stanford Alpine Club. The Stanford Alpine Club provides members of the Stanford community with instruction in technical rock climbing and other aspects of mountaineering. The club runs weekly practice climbs at local rocks where the fundamental ru...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mera, Southwest Buttress

Mera, Southwest Buttress. Our expedition, consisting of George Davidson, Mal Duff, Lesley Shipway, Ian Tattersall and me as leader, reached Base Camp on March 20, having trekked to Lukla and crossed the Hinku valley via the Zatre Wala Pass. Over t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Ausangate Group

Ausangate Group. Augusto Jamanca, Francisco Paucarmayta and I in July climbed Huekeriti (18,635 feet) and Punkuriti (17,061 feet).CÉsar Morales Arnao, Club Andinista Cordillera Blanca


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Mexico, Pico Candela, Northwest Ridge

Pico Candela, Northwest Ridge. In January 2006 Ralph Vega and I established the first technical route on this obvious 1,000' granite spire off Highway 1, north of Monterey. After a four-hour hike to the base, we started up the northwest ridge for ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Mountains, Changui Tower, East Face, Ludopatía

Changui Tower, East Face, Ludopatía. Fermín Izco, Mikel Zabalza and I left Pamplona on June 18 for Islamabad. Our objective was to climb in the Nangma Valley, which Fermín and Mikel got to know when they opened a new route on the Nameless Tower in...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Italy, Wunder der Gletscherwelt

Wunder der Gletscherwelt. A report by the Manchester Guardian states that Lac Combal, which used to be fed by the Glacier de Miage, on the Italian side of Mont Blanc, has vanished. Visitors from Courmayeur were incredulous. It has been suggested t...


Club Activities AAJ
British Columbia Mountaineering Club

British Columbia Mountaineering club. The club experienced another active year of climbing and exploration in 1969, with members reporting about 30 new peaks and 15 new routes. Eighty-seven trips and three camps were scheduled, with attendance usu...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Attempt

Manaslu Attempt. An Italian expedition led by Roberto Pe failed to climb Manaslu by its northeast face. On May 1, Pe and Rinaldo Dell’Ava got to 7050 meters.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri V

Dhaulagiri V. The Kenryo Alpine Club expedition was led by Genichi Yasaki with Tesuro Terahata as climbing leader. They gave up their attempt on the southwest face of Dhaulagiri V (24,992 feet) when on May 4 Hidenobu Tezuka, Kenichi Aoki and Toshi...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Failure to Follow Route, Climbing Alone, Darkness, Inadequate Equipment, Washington, Mount Olympus

FALL ON ICE, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, CLIMBING ALONE,DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWashington, Mount OlympusOn August 9, 1987, Robert Concannon (27) arrived at Glacier Meadows in midafternoon. He signed out on the bulletin board in front of the ra...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Colombia, Pico Ojeda and La Reina, Sierra Nevada de Santa Maria

Pico Ojeda and La Reina, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. In December 1972 and January 1973 I led a climbing and spider-collecting expedition to the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. The members were Kent Johnson, Bruce Talbot, my brother Peter and I. We...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina—Central Andes, Aconcagua, Northern Valleys, 1991

Aconcagua, Northern Valleys, 1991. From January 13 to 18, 1991, Austrian Theo Dowbenka and Germans Josef Hümmer, Josef Knott, Rolf Thorenz and I as leader climbed and traversed Aconcagua, but we took a long way over desolate valleys to do so. We s...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rocks—Dislodged By Climber, Fall on Rock, Colorado, Boulder Canyon

FALLING ROCKS—DISLODGED BY CUMBER, FALL ON ROCK Colorado, Boulder CanyonOn October 25, 1989, Farrell Ballenger (42) and Loren Trout (44) planned to climb from Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon West along a mostly buried aquaduct to Baker Reservoir in ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Utah—Wasatch Mountains

Utah—Wasatch Mountains: On January 31, 1953, Arthur Owen (25), Fred Payne (19) and Jack Payne (17) started on a ski mountaineering trip up White Pine Canyon intending to bivouac at timberline and to climb the “Matterhorn of the Wasatch” the next d...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Streaked Wall, Zion National Park

Streaked Wall, Zion National Park. Paul Gagner and Eric Brand climbed a new route, the third, Latitudes (VI, 5.10, A4), on Zion’s Streaked Wall in early May. It ascends a crack system starting just 50 feet right of Tales of Scorpio. Five mostly fr...


In Memoriam ANAM
Colorado, Sierra Blanca

Colorado, Sierra Blanca. On 28 May George Bell, Larry Campbell (30), Ross Harder, Bill Hendry, Karl Horak, and David Michael, while descending a snow face on the north side of the east ridge of Sierra Blanca, set off a wet snow avalanche. The slid...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Temple

AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn August 9, 1993, two experienced climbers, Matt and Julie Culberson (both 35), started up the Aemmer Couloir on Mount Temple (3545 meters) at 0700, planning to do the East Ridge route in one day. Cl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Kumaun, Panch Chuli III, Attempt

Punch Chuli III, attempt. A 10-member expedition, sponsored by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation and led by Purmal Singh Dharmashaku, claimed to have made the first ascent of 6312m Panch Chuli III from the east, with Tarun Roy from Delhi and th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak)

Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak). An expedition of 12 Japanese from Okayama University was led by Haruhisa Kuroda. It repeated the route on the southwest ridge, first climbed by Yugoslavs in 1977. A new variant was made in the lower part until they reac...