Kusum Kanguru. On October 16, Japanese Koji Asano, Hiroyoshi Manome and Atsushi Sakudo completed the ascent of Kusum Kanguru (6367 meters, 20,889 feet) via the north ridge alpine-style. They made three bivouacs on the way to the top.

AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, EYEGLASSES REMOVED New Hampshire, Huntington RavineOn March 13, 1988, at 1000 Charles Graves (36) and Robert Kaufman (26) started up a mixed snow/ice climb known as Damnation Gully. The climbers found neve in between pitc...

FALL ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, PARTY SEPARATED, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HATOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn September 7, while ascending the standard Southside route, one climber (36) of a party of two lost his footing at about 11,000-foot e...

North Ridge of Forbidden Peak. The last unknown ridge on pyramidal Forbidden Peak, in the Cascade Pass area, was climbed June 8th by Don Wilde, Jack Schwabland, and Fred Beckey. It is perhaps one of the most alpine routes in the United States: a h...

Larsen Harbour to Royal Bay traverse and first ascent of Peak 5,680'. Using Skip Novak’s yacht Pelagic to make the sea crossing from Ushuaia via the Falkland Islands to South Georgia, Julian Freeman-Attwood, Rich Haworth, Novak and Crag Jones were...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Moore’s WallOn June 9, 1990, as a party of four, we were planning to lead and follow the route, Golden Earring, a 5.7. The first two members of the party had already led up a short 15 mete...

Nanda Devi The Tragic Expedition. John Roskelley. Stackpole Books, Harrisburg, PA, 1987. 239 pages, illustrated. $16.95.A full accounting of the events on the 1976 Indo-American expedition described in John Roskelley’s new book Nanda Devi The Trag...

Tripyramid. My two brothers, Carl and Michael, and I spent three weeks around the Traleika Glacier waiting out storms. Our climbs on the three mornings that were clear made up for the lost time. We tried Tatum by its long northeast ridge, but snow...

San Jacinto Mountains, Taquitz Rock—On June 19, 1954, Joe Fitscher (16) and a companion, Kodis, visited Taquitz Rock on a scheduled Sierra Club climb. They first climbed the horn route using one piton. This is a difficult rock climb and more conse...

Mount Superior, South Face. I rope soloed a new route on the unclimbed south face of Mount Superior in September of 1994 (IV 5.8 A2, eight pitches). The approach to this wall starts at Superior's drainage, which crosses Little Cottonwood Canyon Ro...

Hagshu, Kishtwar Himalaya. We were Tim Whitaker, Max Holliday, Phil Booth, Ken Hopper and I. Booth, Hopper and Holliday made the first legal ascent of Hagshu (6330 meters, 20,768 feet), reaching the summit on September 16 after a three-day, alpine...

Central Tower of Paine, Insumisoa. It was reported that in February the Spanish team of Raúl Melero, Mikel Sáenz, Xabier Urdanoz and Pepe Rayo finished a route begun in 1994, Insumisoa (VI 6b+ A4, 1200 meters). Further details are lacking. (Desnivel)

Geladaindong massif, Peak 6,543m. On October 2, 2007, a Japanese expedition made the first ascent of an unnamed 6,543m peak, a major summit in the Geladaindong massif of the Tangula Shan. The summit lies 5.4km southwest of Geladaindong (6,621m) at...

Peaks at Head of Kuskawulsh Glacier. We climbed a peak east of Pinnacle Peak on the adjoining east ridge. The route was from the north on mixed snow, ice and broken rock on a ridge which led directly to the summit (c. 9600 feet). We descended via ...

Mt. Hunter, Southeast Spur, Third Ascent. Jeff apple Benowitz and I started up the initial couloir of the Southeast Spur on May 24. Once on the ridge proper, a few pitches of snow and mixed climbing brought us to the base of a 350-foot headwall. T...

Alpamayo, Artesonraju, Ulta. After failing because of bottomless snow in an attempt on a new route on the south face of Ranrapalca, Philip Stuart Dawson and I climbed the north ridge of Alpamayo from the Quebrada Santa Cruz. This took us four days...

Lost Temple Spire and Fremont Peak, Wind River Range. During the last weekend of September 1980, Jay Wilson, Stan Mish and I climbed the west ridge of Lost Temple Spire. We scrambled up to near the base of the northwest face of East Temple. From t...

Grand Teton, New Routes, and Other Climbs. On the east face of the Grand Teton, in July, Zac Martin and I climbed The Golden Arête (V 5.11d AI2) with 15 bolts and Offspring (III 5.11 Al) with four bolts and three points of aid. Both routes are loc...

Simian Climbing Club. Organized in 1963, the first years of club activities consisted mostly of small outings by individuals for practice rock climbing and mountaineering in the West. Only recently have larger club trips been scheduled during the ...

FALL ON SNOW—CRAMPON POINT CAUGHT IN PANTS, NO HARD HAT,CLIMBING ALONEWyoming, Mount Owen, Koven CouloirAt 1300 on August 2, Randy Huskinson (46) was descending the Koven Couloir following a successful ascent of the East Ridge of Mount Owen. He ha...