Mrigthuni. A four-man Spanish expedition was led by Gonzalo Suárez. The party made a four-day approach from Lata and placed Base Camp on September 2 at 16,250 feet below the south face of Mrigthuni. Advanced Base was at 17,225 feet and Camp I at 1...
Mount Washington, Pinnacle Gully. On February 1, 1970 a most beautiful winter day, I was privileged to partake of what most climbers, thirty years ago, would have declared impossible, and what even today is improbable. Jim McCarthy, with myself as...
FAILURE OF RAPPEL, CHOCKS PULLED OUT, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, near BanffOn May 26, 1985, an inexperienced climber (30) was beginning a rappel descent of the southwest face of Rundle Rock. When she committed her weight to the rope, he...
FALL ON ROCKYukon Territory, Kluane National Park Reserve, Mount LoganA trio of experienced climbers, Stephen Canning (22), and his two partners (36 and 43) registered to climb Mount Logan’s East Ridge on May 7. They expected to be done their expe...
Chota Shigri 1 and P 20,300, Kulu. New Zealanders James Jenkins and Sue Parkes and I climbed Chota Shigri I, which we believe was unclimbed, from a Base Camp on the Chota Shigri Glacier. We recorded an altitude of 17,680 feet by altimeter. We then...
Bhrigupanth. A Japanese expedition led by Koji Yamakura climbed Bhri- gupanth, repeating the route first climbed in 1980 by Penny Brothers, Susan Coons and Nancey Goforth. Base Camp was established at 15,350 feet on September 3. Advance Base, Camp...
Voodoo Dome, South Face. This is the largest rock formation in the Needles and its broad monolithic 900-foot face is the highest in the area. Its most noticeable feature is a gigantic arch above a cave-like hollow low on the left center of the fac...
Attempt to get to Antarctica. In December Canadians had hoped to fly to Antarctica to climb the Vinson Massif. They started with the same plane used by Bonington and the Americans in 1983 but they had British pilots. After difficulties about landi...
Stanford Alpine Club. The Stanford Alpine Club provides members of the Stanford community with instruction in technical rock climbing and other aspects of mountaineering. The club runs weekly practice climbs at local rocks where the fundamental ru...
Mera, Southwest Buttress. Our expedition, consisting of George Davidson, Mal Duff, Lesley Shipway, Ian Tattersall and me as leader, reached Base Camp on March 20, having trekked to Lukla and crossed the Hinku valley via the Zatre Wala Pass. Over t...
Ausangate Group. Augusto Jamanca, Francisco Paucarmayta and I in July climbed Huekeriti (18,635 feet) and Punkuriti (17,061 feet).CÉsar Morales Arnao, Club Andinista Cordillera Blanca
Pico Candela, Northwest Ridge. In January 2006 Ralph Vega and I established the first technical route on this obvious 1,000' granite spire off Highway 1, north of Monterey. After a four-hour hike to the base, we started up the northwest ridge for ...
Changui Tower, East Face, Ludopatía. Fermín Izco, Mikel Zabalza and I left Pamplona on June 18 for Islamabad. Our objective was to climb in the Nangma Valley, which Fermín and Mikel got to know when they opened a new route on the Nameless Tower in...
Wunder der Gletscherwelt. A report by the Manchester Guardian states that Lac Combal, which used to be fed by the Glacier de Miage, on the Italian side of Mont Blanc, has vanished. Visitors from Courmayeur were incredulous. It has been suggested t...
British Columbia Mountaineering club. The club experienced another active year of climbing and exploration in 1969, with members reporting about 30 new peaks and 15 new routes. Eighty-seven trips and three camps were scheduled, with attendance usu...
Manaslu Attempt. An Italian expedition led by Roberto Pe failed to climb Manaslu by its northeast face. On May 1, Pe and Rinaldo Dell’Ava got to 7050 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
Dhaulagiri V. The Kenryo Alpine Club expedition was led by Genichi Yasaki with Tesuro Terahata as climbing leader. They gave up their attempt on the southwest face of Dhaulagiri V (24,992 feet) when on May 4 Hidenobu Tezuka, Kenichi Aoki and Toshi...
FALL ON ICE, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, CLIMBING ALONE,DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWashington, Mount OlympusOn August 9, 1987, Robert Concannon (27) arrived at Glacier Meadows in midafternoon. He signed out on the bulletin board in front of the ra...
Pico Ojeda and La Reina, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. In December 1972 and January 1973 I led a climbing and spider-collecting expedition to the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. The members were Kent Johnson, Bruce Talbot, my brother Peter and I. We...
Aconcagua, Northern Valleys, 1991. From January 13 to 18, 1991, Austrian Theo Dowbenka and Germans Josef Hümmer, Josef Knott, Rolf Thorenz and I as leader climbed and traversed Aconcagua, but we took a long way over desolate valleys to do so. We s...