On May 26 and 27 Scott Adamson and I completed a new route on the south face of the Mooses Tooth. Following ice runnels, chimneys, and cracks, we found our way directly to the main (east) summit. Shortly after Talkeetna Air Taxi dropped us off ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONEColorado, Crestone NeedleOn August 31, 1982, the body of Matthew O’Connor (24) was recovered from Crestone Needle, from which he had fallen a few weeks earlier. On August 12, with only an extra sweater, he had set out t...
STRANDED, INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Whitney GilmanOn October 12, New Hampshire Fish and Game received a report of two individuals with a stuck rope on the Whitney Gilman rock climb. Joe Lentini and another EMS guide took the tram to...
Chacacomani and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real, 1983. Our attention has just been called to a German expedition led by Georg Seifried and composed of Treuhard Hanke, Jürgen Bäumler, Peter Koch, Reinhold Siegel and Udo Knittel. Most of the mountains ...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 21 March Marcus Cohen, Bob Snively, Elaine Leachman, and Margo Percival (18) were descending the Monday Morning slabs. The accident occurred at the bottom of the second and last rappel. Margo Percival had gon...
Cerro Torre, The First Ten Ascents. Despite the doubts about whether the Cerro Torre was actually ascended in 1959, here in Argentina, we accept this as the first ascent. There have by January, 1985 been ten ascents of the peak: 1. Cesare Maestri ...
P 6960 Attempt. A large Korean expedition led by Lee Jong-Gun also failed to climb the peak. At the same time as the Japanese, they tried the mountain via the corridor between it and Baintha Brakk and the west face.
Alberta, Rockies, Mt. McGillivray. On 8 July John Bruinink (19) left Calgary and hitch hiked into Rockies to make a scrambling course. He had previously laid out the trail three weeks before. He said he “may go climbing.” He was supposed to have h...
Tukche. A six-woman Japanese expedition, led by Mrs. Hisako Yamamoto, made the first female ascent of Tukche. We had camps at 17,725, 20,000 and 21,325 feet and one bivouac at 21,650 feet above Base Camp on the north ridge. On May 9 Fumie Shimamur...
Upernavik region, various routes on Qaersorssuaq and Umanaq islands. This was my fourth trip to Greenland. The previous three had been to the East Coast, so I had a good feel for what the land had to offer. The plan was the same as other visits: l...
Annapurna IV Attempt and Medical Expedition. A French expedition led by Philippe Paumier of the Association pour la Recherche en Physiologie de l’Environment was composed of 12 climbers and three others, mostly doctors who wanted to carry on high-...
Huntington, West Face. Michael Kennedy and I achieved what may be the fastest airplane-to-airplane ascent of Huntington. On May 15, we landed on the Tokositna Glacier. The next morning in fine weather, we headed up the impressive couloir which spl...
Siachen Glacier, Exploration. We (Harish Kapadia, leader; Vijay Kothari, Cyrus Shroff, Divyesh Muni, Vineeta Muni; Kaivan Mistry; and Captain Ashish Suhag, liaison officer) applied to climb on the Siachen Glacier in 1998. Permits were granted six ...
Satopanth, Kedarnath and Kedarnath Dome. There were successful climbs of Satopanth (7075 meters, 23,212 feet) by Germans, by Italians under the leadership of G. Federico and Swiss led by Wolfgang Stefan. Australians led by John Robert Muir and Ita...
Illimani, Phajsi Face, Inti Face, and Puerta del Sol; Pico Layca Khollu, Acalanto. In June Fumitaka Ichimura, Tatsuro Yamada, Yuki Satoh, and I established four new routes on the south face of Illimani (6,439m), the highest mountain in Bolivia’s C...
South Ridge of Fair Share Tower. From the Caves this ridge can be seen just to the left of the gully leading to the Red Sentinel. John Dietschy and Irene Ortenburger, July 9, 1957, made this enjoyable climb on good rock over the tops of an unnamed...
South Pole International Overland Expedition. During the austral summer of 1988-89, the first privately funded cross-country ski expedition to the South Pole took place. Eleven members representing five nations reached the South Pole on January 17...
Bootleg Tower, Day Canyon, Moab. Day Canyon is one of dozens of pristine canyons, rarely visited, only a few miles from Moab. Though few have towers, Day Canyon, home of an early bootlegger, has several challenging ones. In 1974 Terry McKenna and ...
Kusum Kanguru. On October 16, Japanese Koji Asano, Hiroyoshi Manome and Atsushi Sakudo completed the ascent of Kusum Kanguru (6367 meters, 20,889 feet) via the north ridge alpine-style. They made three bivouacs on the way to the top.
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, EYEGLASSES REMOVED New Hampshire, Huntington RavineOn March 13, 1988, at 1000 Charles Graves (36) and Robert Kaufman (26) started up a mixed snow/ice climb known as Damnation Gully. The climbers found neve in between pitc...