The New York Section of the Alpine Club of Canada held its twenty-first annual dinner at the Hotel Brevoort on March 28th, 1931. Dr. J. Monroe Thorington presided and ninety-two members and guests attended. Illustrated talks were given by Robert A...
Pukajirka Central, Northeast Face. Our expedition was probably the third to climb Pukajirka Central. We made a new route, the northeast face. We were Antonio Camozzi, Marino Giacometti, Antonio Magnanoni, Gian Battista Scanabessi, Dr. Annibale Bon...
Geographical DistrictsAccidentsCanada19591960Alberta20British Columbia02AccidentsUnited States1947-19591960Atlantic States—North363South40Central20Colorado 6510Utah & New Mexico100Wyoming478South Dakota10Montana & Idaho 90Arizona & Nev...
El Capitan, Nose, speed record. On October 15 Dean Potter and I went sub-four hours on El Cap’s 3,000-foot Nose, cleaving 23 minutes off the record of 4:22, set nearly a decade ago by Peter Croft and Hans Florine. This was our fourth ascent of the...
FALL ON ROCK, EQUIPMENT FAILURE—GRI-GRITexas, Barton CreekThe climbing accident concerning the failed Gri-Gri occurred on October 3rd at the cliffs along Barton Creek, near Austin. The climb is called Cyborg, and rated 5.11c; however, I was beyond...
Huascarán and Quitaraju. On July 10 Paul Müller and Albert Fellinger of the Swiss Solothurn Expedition with the Peruvian porter Felipe Mautino reached the summit of the north peak of Huascarán (21,834 feet) in bad weather, which turned back their ...
Throne, Dragon’s Spine and Other Peaks, Little Switzerland. Pete Pollard, John Rich and I spent 17 days on the Pika Glacier in June. Our first goal was the southwest buttress of the Throne, still unclimbed after previous attempts. Our first try en...
Washington, Cascades, Granite Mountain. (See accident report.) The King County Sheriff and Seattle MRC were notified of the avalanche accident at 8:00 P.M. on March 25th. Organization was slow because almost all available MRC personnel and equipme...
FALL ON ROCK, IMPROPER PROTECTION, NO HARD HATNew Hampshire, Bartlett Tower, Dartmouth College CampusIn the spring of 1981, a student (20) was climbing on Bartlett Tower and was belayed from below by an instructor from the Dartmouth Outing Club. T...
Robal Kang, Kulu. A seven-member team from Calcutta made the second ascent of Robal Kang (20,300 feet) on September 20. They were led by Asit Moitra.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Cathedral Ledge, North Conway, Pendulum Route. Paul Doyle and I made the first ascent of this route on September 2. It features excellent rock with fine belay ledges. It would be difficult to retreat after the third pitch because of the overhang o...
California, Yosemite National Park, Lower Yosemite Falls. On August 23 Richard Parsons (21) and friends decided to go rock climbing. They scrambled up car size talus, to the base of the lower Yosemite Falls cliff. The party worked their way up alo...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club continued its mutually enjoyable cooperation with the Men’s Physical Education Department of the University of Iowa. Courses were sponsored for credit in skiing, backpacking, basic rock climbing and mountaineering. In l...
Mrigthuni. A four-man Spanish expedition was led by Gonzalo Suárez. The party made a four-day approach from Lata and placed Base Camp on September 2 at 16,250 feet below the south face of Mrigthuni. Advanced Base was at 17,225 feet and Camp I at 1...
Mount Washington, Pinnacle Gully. On February 1, 1970 a most beautiful winter day, I was privileged to partake of what most climbers, thirty years ago, would have declared impossible, and what even today is improbable. Jim McCarthy, with myself as...
FAILURE OF RAPPEL, CHOCKS PULLED OUT, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, near BanffOn May 26, 1985, an inexperienced climber (30) was beginning a rappel descent of the southwest face of Rundle Rock. When she committed her weight to the rope, he...
FALL ON ROCKYukon Territory, Kluane National Park Reserve, Mount LoganA trio of experienced climbers, Stephen Canning (22), and his two partners (36 and 43) registered to climb Mount Logan’s East Ridge on May 7. They expected to be done their expe...
Chota Shigri 1 and P 20,300, Kulu. New Zealanders James Jenkins and Sue Parkes and I climbed Chota Shigri I, which we believe was unclimbed, from a Base Camp on the Chota Shigri Glacier. We recorded an altitude of 17,680 feet by altimeter. We then...
Bhrigupanth. A Japanese expedition led by Koji Yamakura climbed Bhri- gupanth, repeating the route first climbed in 1980 by Penny Brothers, Susan Coons and Nancey Goforth. Base Camp was established at 15,350 feet on September 3. Advance Base, Camp...
Voodoo Dome, South Face. This is the largest rock formation in the Needles and its broad monolithic 900-foot face is the highest in the area. Its most noticeable feature is a gigantic arch above a cave-like hollow low on the left center of the fac...