Kamet and Abi Gamin Ascents. A Jat Regiment expedition of the Indian Army led by Major Sonam Thapa reached the top of Abi Gamin (7355 meters) on June 15, while Kamet was climbed by Hav. Kalam Singh, Hav. Vijay Singh and the leader. On June 16 Hav....
North Face of South Peak of Lone Peak. The first ascent of this face, often called the Question Mark Face because of a large question mark near the top, was completed by Fred Beckey and me on September 15. We went in a straight line up an almost s...
The Mazamas. Climbing activities, the prime activity of The Mazamas, are planned and supervised under the Climbing Committee, this year chaired by Bruce Coorpender. The summer schedule, May through September, included 191 weekend activities and 25...
Pico Sintana (Simmons), Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, North Face. Paul Thomas, Brian Wood, Tom Simpson, and I entered the range from the west side (San Pedro de la Sierra) and followed the same route that Tom Simpson and I took a year ago in our t...
Mont Blanc Chain, France. First Ascent of Dru Couloir Direct, Aiguille du Drus. (Grade ED Sup): Early in August Riccardo (Rick) Accomazzo and I climbed this prominent couloir in just over two-and-a-half days. Previous ascents had traversed to the ...
Huascarán Norte, Northeast Face and Oqshapallka, South Face, and Other Peaks, 1979. After acclimatizing on Yanapaqtsa, Pisco and Toqllaraju, all by their normal routes, Bruce Blatherwick and I climbed the north face of Ranrapallka by the 1975 rout...
ANDREW W. KRAMER1894-1993Andrew W. Kramer died at the age of 99. He lived at Lake Buff, Illinois. He had been a member of the American Alpine Club since 1945. He was known for his articles on nuclear science and engineering. Mr. Kramer was also an...
The New York Section of the Alpine Club of Canada held its twenty-first annual dinner at the Hotel Brevoort on March 28th, 1931. Dr. J. Monroe Thorington presided and ninety-two members and guests attended. Illustrated talks were given by Robert A...
Pukajirka Central, Northeast Face. Our expedition was probably the third to climb Pukajirka Central. We made a new route, the northeast face. We were Antonio Camozzi, Marino Giacometti, Antonio Magnanoni, Gian Battista Scanabessi, Dr. Annibale Bon...
Geographical DistrictsAccidentsCanada19591960Alberta20British Columbia02AccidentsUnited States1947-19591960Atlantic States—North363South40Central20Colorado 6510Utah & New Mexico100Wyoming478South Dakota10Montana & Idaho 90Arizona & Nev...
El Capitan, Nose, speed record. On October 15 Dean Potter and I went sub-four hours on El Cap’s 3,000-foot Nose, cleaving 23 minutes off the record of 4:22, set nearly a decade ago by Peter Croft and Hans Florine. This was our fourth ascent of the...
FALL ON ROCK, EQUIPMENT FAILURE—GRI-GRITexas, Barton CreekThe climbing accident concerning the failed Gri-Gri occurred on October 3rd at the cliffs along Barton Creek, near Austin. The climb is called Cyborg, and rated 5.11c; however, I was beyond...
Huascarán and Quitaraju. On July 10 Paul Müller and Albert Fellinger of the Swiss Solothurn Expedition with the Peruvian porter Felipe Mautino reached the summit of the north peak of Huascarán (21,834 feet) in bad weather, which turned back their ...
Throne, Dragon’s Spine and Other Peaks, Little Switzerland. Pete Pollard, John Rich and I spent 17 days on the Pika Glacier in June. Our first goal was the southwest buttress of the Throne, still unclimbed after previous attempts. Our first try en...
Washington, Cascades, Granite Mountain. (See accident report.) The King County Sheriff and Seattle MRC were notified of the avalanche accident at 8:00 P.M. on March 25th. Organization was slow because almost all available MRC personnel and equipme...
FALL ON ROCK, IMPROPER PROTECTION, NO HARD HATNew Hampshire, Bartlett Tower, Dartmouth College CampusIn the spring of 1981, a student (20) was climbing on Bartlett Tower and was belayed from below by an instructor from the Dartmouth Outing Club. T...
Robal Kang, Kulu. A seven-member team from Calcutta made the second ascent of Robal Kang (20,300 feet) on September 20. They were led by Asit Moitra.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Cathedral Ledge, North Conway, Pendulum Route. Paul Doyle and I made the first ascent of this route on September 2. It features excellent rock with fine belay ledges. It would be difficult to retreat after the third pitch because of the overhang o...
California, Yosemite National Park, Lower Yosemite Falls. On August 23 Richard Parsons (21) and friends decided to go rock climbing. They scrambled up car size talus, to the base of the lower Yosemite Falls cliff. The party worked their way up alo...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club continued its mutually enjoyable cooperation with the Men’s Physical Education Department of the University of Iowa. Courses were sponsored for credit in skiing, backpacking, basic rock climbing and mountaineering. In l...