Annapurna, South Face Ascent and Tragedy. The 13th ill-fated climber in Nepal in the post-monsoon season was a Belgian, who died in the season’s most dramatic death, having disappeared with no final trace. Gabriel Denamur was a member of one of tw...
JULIE A. INWOOD1939-1985Julie, like many of us who came from Colorado, was virtually brought up in the mountains. And certainly, in her case, enthusiasm for the mountains was in every way matched by mountaineering competence.Having only recently j...
The Untrodden Andes, by C. G. Egeler and T. de Booy. Foreword by Sir Edmund Hillary. Translated from the Dutch by W. E. James. 203 pages, 51 photographs, 9 maps and sketches. London: Faber and Faber Ltd., 1954. Price, 25 s.Egeler and de Booy have ...
Shartse. This expedition, composed of Gerhard Lenser, leader, Dr. Hermann Warth, Dr. Klaus Peter Bach, Germans, and me, an Austrian, had as its original goal the ascent of Lhotse (27,890 feet) by a new route from the Khumbu side. Protests were mad...
Gemmigela II (Twin II) Ascent and Tragedy. From Lachen to Base Camp at Green Lake (4930 meters), it was a strenuous five days of trekking up and down mountain paths. We had to cross dangerous rapids by using log bridges with ropes stretched betwee...
Der dritte Pol, by G. O. Dyhrenfurth. Munich: Nymphenburger Verlag, 1960. 263 pages, 35 ills., 16 maps, 4 sketches, 6 profiles. Price D.M. 28. To be placed beside the standard Himalayan series edited by Marcel Kurz is the reedition of Professor Dy...
Vince Anderson and I had a tough go of it in the Hispar region of Pakistan, mostly due to bad weather. However, we still managed to get to within 300m of the summit of Khunyang Chhish East, which at 7,400m is one of the highest unclimbed peaks i...
The Needles, Magician Needle, Magic Dragon. In January Neil Carlos and I climbed this 13-pitch route. The first half of the route ascends directly up the spine of the huge buttress (Trojan Horse) which ends halfway up the rock. The long, unprotect...
Dhaulagiri Tragedy. On October 6, the well-known New Zealander Gary Ball died from high-altitude sickness on Dhaulagiri. He was 40 years old. He and Robert Hall led several commercial expedition to the Himalaya and elsewhere. These two were the fi...
FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCE, FAILED TO THREAD ROPE THROUGH ANCHORSKentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir ValleyA male climber (31) fell from the top anchors of Rat Stew (5.10a). He landed two feet from his belayer after free falling approximately 75 feet....
Kang Karpo Attempt. Tom Hornbein, Robert Hornbein, Robin Houston, Brian Okonek, Robert Brown Schoene and I attempted Kang Karpo (Meili) in September. We followed the route we had previously explored in 1988 and established two camps above Base Cam...
California, Sierra Nevada—On June 28, 1956 John Brinkmann (15) was injured while climbing the NE ridge of University Peak. The party was led by Scoutmaster Jim Fairchild, who had had mountain experience with the Sierra Club; the climbing party con...
Peaks above the Kahiltna Glacier. Late in May, Margaret Young and I flew our Cessna 180 onto the Kahiltna Glacier and established camp among the group of granite peaks that lie inside the “great bend” of the Kahiltna. We explored the immediate vic...
Winter Ascents in the Cascades. The drought winter of 1976-1977 presented climbing conditions that had not been experienced in recent history and may not be seen again in the present generation. February was particularly calm, clear and warm. Ther...
FALL ON ROCK—Quebec, Val David, Mont Cesair. Joscelyn Valliere was leading the Valse Direct on Mt. Cesair at 11:30 a.m. on March 11, 1976. He fell when he was about six feet above his last runner, broke his right leg on a ledge, and slipped severa...
CLIMBING ALONE and UNROPED, DISTRAUGHTArkansas, Sam’s ThroneOn October 12, Chris Harris (23) was soloing at night on Instant Trauma (5.10a) when he fell 75 feet to his death.AnalysisHarris came out late in the afternoon, and was supposed to meet f...
Rocky Mountains of CanadaThe following data correct and supplement the 1940 edition of the Guidebook.Approaches to Mt. Assiniboine. This peak is 23 miles in airline S. W. of Banff, but considerably further by trail. Mt. Assiniboine (11,870 ft.) is...
Gul Lasht Zorn, Hindu Kush. After the Chogolisa expedition, I teamed up with John Kentish for a short visit to the Hindu Kush. We investigated routes on Tirich Mir. On October 2, we reached the summit of Gul Lasht Zom (6611 meters, 21,690 feet), r...
High Altitude Research on Mount McKinley. A research team from the Institute of Arctic Biology, University of Alaska, studying the ecology of man at altitude, carried out a series of experiments on Mount McKinley during June and July. Testing camp...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, OVERDUEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AndromedaTwo climbers were two days overdue on the Skyladder route on Mount Andromeda.On March 7, the climbers started climbing at 0300 and were at the base of Skyladder by dawn. They...