Mamostong Kangri and P 6448. A 31-member team of the Border Security Force was led by S.C. Negi. The roadhead at Sasoma was reached on July 18. Base Camp at Skyangpoche beyond Saser Nala, Camp I on the moraine and Advance Base were set up at 4575,...
CHARLES BOARDMAN NEWHALL1902-1984Charles B. Newhall was bom in Lynn, Massachusetts on June 8, 1902, a direct descendant of Thomas Newhall, who was bom in Lynn in 1630. He grew up in Lynn, graduating from the Lynn Classical High School in 1919 and ...
Alpine Tragedy, by Charles Gos. Translated from the French by Malcolm Barnes. 282 pages, illustrations. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1948. Price, $6.00.Malcolm Barnes’ spirited translation of Charles Gos’ story of fatal mountain climbing acc...
STEVEN GEOFFREY SCHWARTZ 1961-1986The central Ohio climbing community was saddened by Steve’s death during a solo ascent of the north face of Les Courtes in the Mont Blanc Range on March 16, 1986. His demise ended a potential life-time of commitme...
Badal Wall, new route to shoulder; Nafees’ Cap, first ascent; Iqbal’s Wall, new route. After failed attempts on three new routes, the team of Nicolas and Olivier Favresse (Belgium), Adam Pustelnik (Poland), and Sean Villanueva (Belgium) succeeded ...
Stairway and Aries Pks. 1944 first ascents by Mr. and Mrs. D. Measuroll, J. M. Thorington, E. Feus, Jr. From Howse Pass, camp was established at timberline in the N. fork of Ebon creek, this stream being the true source of Blaeberry River. Stairwa...
RAPPEL ERROR—CLIPPED TO ONE ROPE, FALL ON ROCKOregon, Smith Rock State ParkOn February 4, John Elgin (24) fell 60 feet after failing to rig his rappel properly. All that is known is that another climber shouted to Elgin to recheck his rig as he pr...
Zion, Various New Route Activity. In early May, 2000, I soloed a six-pitch variation between Wind, Sand, and Stars and The Futura. The variation shares the first pitch of Wind, Sand, and Stars and links up with The Futura at the top of that route’...
Mount Hunter, West Ridge via the Northwest Spur. On the evening of June 1 Boudewijn, Ronald Binnebösz, Ton Hoenevelt, Frans Kerren, Arie Korving and I left our camp on the Kahiltna Glacier to climb to the west ridge via the northwest spur which jo...
Drohmo south pillar, major variation; Drohmo East, first ascent; Pathibhara Chuli, southwest face; Kirat Chuli west face and Chang Himal north face, attempts. The Slovenian Alpine Association organized an expedition to the Kangchenjunga region, si...
FALL ON ROCK, FOOTHOLD BROKE-FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSAlberta, Mount John Laurie (Yamnuska)On September 29, two experienced climbers were ascending the Redshirt route on Yamnuska (II, 5.7). On the fourth pitch, leader I.H. (51) traversed left, clipped...
Peak 8933', Ascent. On April 23, six of us (Mimi Bourquin, Paul Claus, Ruedi Homberger, Cristine Legnet, Reto Reutsch, and myself) flew from Ultima Thule Lodge to an unnamed glacier to the north and east of P8933' at around 6,700 feet. We skied do...
Mount Wade. In July Bruce Tickell and I climbed Mount Wade (Boundary Peak 173; 2426 meters, 7960 feet), which is 50 miles east of Yakutat, overlooking Nunatak Fjord. We ascended the East Nunatak Glacier from the beach and left the glacier five mil...
James Goodwin, 1910 – 2011Jim Goodwin died on April 14 in Lake Placid. To the rock and ice climbing community, he was a pioneer. But to those who knew him, especially the hundreds who joined him as children to hike Adirondack trails, Jimmy Goodwin...
Nilgiri South Attempt. A three-man Japanese party failed to climb a new route on Nilgiri South (6838 meters, 22,435 feet), the southwest ridge. The leader was hit by a falling rock, and had to return to Base Camp. One other member had altitude sic...
Mt. Tiedemann, New Route. From August 4-7, Britons Simon Richardson and Doré Green made the first ascent of the South Pillar (VI 5.10+ WI3, 1400m) of Mount Tiedemann (3848m). A full account of their twenty-nine pitch route and an overview of the c...
Mt. Russell, Nelson-Pearson. Surprisingly, before this summer there were no reports of routes on Russell’s impressive north face, save a Beckey route on the far right side. On August 17 Lindsey Pearson and I approached the face from Cleaver Col. W...
Murallón, Northeast Face. Casimiro Ferrari, Paolo Vitale and Carlo Adi climbed Murallón (2810 meters, 9212 feet) by its frightful northeast face. Ferrari, who has climbed Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy, considers this new route the most difficult yet do...
Palcaraju West, Cordillera Blanca. On July 28 César Morales Arnao, Alberto Ruibal, and A. Jamanca, of the Club Andinista Cordillera Blanca, made a new route on Palcaraju in the course of which they climbed a new 19,685-foot summit.
Cerro Arenas, East Face of East Summit. On November 30 Eric Soulié and I made the first ascent of the east face of the east summit of Cerro Arenas above the Cajón del Maipo. We lacked technical equipment to do the direttissima.Yves Astier, Club Al...