Scoresbyland, East Greenland. Our expedition arrived by air in Mestersvig on July 6 and left on August 24. In Greenland the fourteen men split into four groups which operated independently in the field.
Dragontail Peak, first winter ascent of Serpentine Ridge. Ade Miller (Alpine Club, U.K.) and I climbed Dragontail Peak (8,840') by the popular summer line The Serpentine Ridge on March 13, 2004. The route starts with a single pitch ice smear (AI3)...
HAPEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressCharles Grey (40) of the Unfinished Business Expedition (party of 2), reported symptoms of HAPE to the 14,200-foot Ranger Camp on Mount McKinley at midnight on June 9. Grey was ataxic with an oxygen saturat...
Pumori, South Ridge. Hiroshima Shudo University had already sent a four-man reconnaissance party in 1975. On the basis of their reports, we decided on Pumori by the south ridge. Our party was as follows: Soichiro Yagiri, Satoshi Tamura, Kenji Tao,...
Rattlesnake Rock, New Routes in Tumwater Canyon. On January 7, Dave Beckstead and I completed the Wild Flower Route previously started by Roger Oborn and me. Starting across from and east of Piton Tower, the route goes behind and in a large crack ...
Ama Dablam, North Face. A Japanese expedition led by Kasuji Kato climbed a new route on Ama Dablam, the north face. The route was threatened by avalanches and Hisao Fukushima was hit and had to be evacuated. They established three high camps. All ...
Mount Pullen (Boundary Peak 104), Meade Glacier, British Columbia- Alaskan Frontier. After being landed by plane on a tributary of the Meade Glacier near the international boundary, our party of six moved 2½ miles southwest to establish Base Camp ...
Yosemite National Park, various ascents. [Below we present some of the significant long-route news from 2007, compiled from a variety of different sources.] Tommy Caldwell continued his unprecedented Valley free-climbing accomplishments, starting ...
Peak 29. The reconnaissance party this year to Peak 29 (25,705 feet) established Camp V on the east side of the mountain on October 30. They say they have found a possible route on the east ridge. Their reconnaissance last year from the west was u...
Ganesh IV (Pabil) Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Shigeru Nakada had hoped to climb Ganesh III and IV from a col between them. They were plagued by illness which kept four of the seven members unable to climb. They established two camps and ...
Middle Troll, Chaos. On June 9 we climbed what we hoped was a new route on the west side of the Middle Troll in Little Switzerland. The route follows the normal route, via a hidden couloir, to the ridge crest, just below the main rock buttress on ...
Wedge Peak, west ridge attempt. Rob Wing and I established a camp near the northwest face of Wedge Peak (10,239') on July 3, after hiking in via Glacier Creek and the Muldrow moraine. We attempted the unclimbed west ridge of Wedge but were turned ...
Staunings Alper. An expedition from Rome climbed in the Staunings Alper at 72° north latitude. Despite bad weather, they made ten first ascents and at least one new route. However, they gave the peaks names here placed in quotes which it is highly...
Nadir Shah and Keshnikhan. The second Yugoslav Hindu Kush Expedition in the Mandaras valley was led by Lojze Šteblaj, and further composed of Stane Belak, Danilo Cedilnik, Boris Krivic, Mitja Košir and Dr. Tomaz Azman. On July 31 Krivic and Belak ...
AndesChile. Late in 1939 the Italian climber and journalist, Piero Ghiglione, with two German companions, Messrs. Nobl and Jorgl, made a successful winter ascent, despite poor snow conditions and bad weather, of El Tronador, climbing both the high...
Peak Free Korea, Variation. Two summits caught Bernard’s and my attention: Mt. Korona (4860m) and Mt. Svobodnaya Korea (4740m). The first one is a granite tower surrounded by a vast glacier. Many difficult lines remain untouched, while various roc...
Ojos del Salado, Cerro “Radioactivo” and Cerro “Ojitos, ” While in the area in the first two weeks of March, our expedition made the ascent of Cerro “Radioactivo,” shown on the maps as P 5750 (18,865 feet), about six kilometers southwest of the ne...
Mount MacDonald, West Face. Most imaginations are caught by MacDonald’s imposing north face, the bastion of Rogers Pass, leaving the retiring west face to the less ambitious. Our approach to the west face was the MacDonald Couloir, which, in the e...
My Life of High Adventure by Grant H. Pearson with Philip Newill.Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, 1962. 16 pages of plates. I recall sleeping soundly in a tent on Mount McKinley some years ago and being awakened by a loud cry, "Crevass...
Annapurna II and IV. Kazmir Drašlar and Majija Maležic reached the summit of Annapurna II (26,041 feet) for the second ascent after sunset of October 22 from Camp VI at 23,800 feet. The camp was regained only at 2:30 A.M. on the 23rd. (First ascen...