California, Mount Whitney—On September 5, 1954, Henry Mandolf (55) with two sixteen-year-old boys, climbed Mt. Whitney by the trail and were descending the north slope toward the Whitney-Russell col. They were carrying packs. On the descent to the...
Little Cottonwood Canyon, Various Ascents. The most significant new climbs in recent years have mostly been slabs put up in traditional groundup style. Chris Begue put up Bright Shining Lie (5.11c) and Cold Blue Steel (5.10c) by hand, on lead, in ...
Hagshu Attempt. A British group led by John Barry failed to climb this difficult peak, which they were attempting by the north face. Bad weather turned them back at 5790 meters.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club
Fortaleza, Solo Ascent. I was on my way to the Fitz Roy area, trekking in the Torres del Paine. At the suggestion of some Chilean climbers who had done the route, I soloed the Original Route on the Forteleza. This route, on the west side above the...
Muzart Glacier, ascents and exploration.The British-New Zealand expedition of Paul Knott, Guy McKinnon, and Bruce Normand gained a permit for Xuelian Feng (6,628m), the dominant peak in the eastern sector of the Chinese Central Tien Shan, and one ...
Mount Queen Mary, West Ridge. On July 30 Yoshihito Watanabe, Akiro Endo and I were landed at 6000 feet on the Hubbard Glacier, southwest of Mount King George. We started the next day up the southwest ridge but crevasses and dangerous snow conditio...
Mt. Hunter, South Face, Variation. On June 11, Jack Tackle and I flew into the Thunder Glacier (6,800') below the south face of Mt. Hunter. Our objective was a face at the end of the cirque, but due to the steady stream of serac fall scraping our ...
Alpamayo. On June 18 and 19 Germans Herbert Iser, Klaus Elstner, Heinz Huettl, Dieter Hartmann, Jakob Kirschner and Rüdiger Schleyper climbed the northeast face of Alpamayo to reach the main summit, having found the usual route on the north ridge ...
Peak G-17 and Mount Arrowhead, Wind River Range. Dick Olmstead and I took advantage of the unusually fine fall weather to do two new climbs from a camp at Upper Jean Lake. On October 6 we ascended the northwest ridge of G-17 in twelve pitches. Abo...
The Serpent, Second Ascent. In November, Jeff Ofsanko and I were looking for adventure about a week after Jeff Achey and Kennan Harvey did the first ascent of a free variation to the Dragon on the Painted Wall. With Achey’s topo, we found our way ...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club purchased a new bus in June for hauling members and equipment on its week-end and summer outings. It was custom engineered to club specifications. The club was also fortunate in obtaining attractive office space in the ...
SLIP ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INEXPERIENCE Wyoming, Grand Tetons, Middle TetonAround 1700 on August 1 in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon, Carrissa Johnson (18) was injured when she slipped on snow while descending from the Southwest Couloir...
Lower Bear Creek Reservoir. This route follows the obvious first buttress on the east side of the gorge. Five pitches of face and friction climbing on beautiful orange granite led to the brushy slopes atop the face. I made the first ascent solo in...
Mount McKinley. Aside from the ascents noted elsewhere in this Journal, Mount McKinley was ascended via the West Buttress route by the following: on May 29, Hans Zogg, Arnold Bloomer, Stanley H. Jensen, Donald J. Liska, Calvin Magnusson, Donald R....
FALL ON ROCK, NO EXPERIENCE Illinois, Giant City State ParkIn February, Phillip Dract (20) failed to jump a three-foot crack at the popular Devil’s Stand Table, fell 50 feet and became wedged in a rock crevice. He was extracted after several hours...
“Mount Perren” Nothing like admitting to error, even if it is to your own benefit. With the happy admission that the 1966 edition of the Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada has a slight flaw*, known only to the inept clod who perpetra...
FATIGUE, FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn January 17, a climber (male – 25) with limited experience and unfamiliar with “Dirt Deed” (5.6) the route he was on, became fatigued upon approaching the first ledg...
Gasherbrum II. Charlotte Fox became the first American woman to climb Gasherbrum II, summitting in August via the southwest ridge with a team of three Norwegians (the first Norwegians up the mountain) and one Ukrainian (the first from his nation u...
Climbs in 1961. Omitted from the previous Journal were the accounts of several expeditions in 1961, two of them in the Bara Shigri area: J. P. Lynam and three other climbers in August ascended a 21,710-foot peak at the head of the Bara Shigri Glac...
Wyoming, Tetons, Mt. Wister. On August 19, David Walton and Paul Zeiger were making an ascent of the north face of Mt. Wister. Walton was leading, and the party had gone up several easy leads to a small ledge in the couloir at the base of the nort...