Peaks at Head of Kuskawulsh Glacier. We climbed a peak east of Pinnacle Peak on the adjoining east ridge. The route was from the north on mixed snow, ice and broken rock on a ridge which led directly to the summit (c. 9600 feet). We descended via ...
Mt. Hunter, Southeast Spur, Third Ascent. Jeff apple Benowitz and I started up the initial couloir of the Southeast Spur on May 24. Once on the ridge proper, a few pitches of snow and mixed climbing brought us to the base of a 350-foot headwall. T...
Alpamayo, Artesonraju, Ulta. After failing because of bottomless snow in an attempt on a new route on the south face of Ranrapalca, Philip Stuart Dawson and I climbed the north ridge of Alpamayo from the Quebrada Santa Cruz. This took us four days...
Lost Temple Spire and Fremont Peak, Wind River Range. During the last weekend of September 1980, Jay Wilson, Stan Mish and I climbed the west ridge of Lost Temple Spire. We scrambled up to near the base of the northwest face of East Temple. From t...
Grand Teton, New Routes, and Other Climbs. On the east face of the Grand Teton, in July, Zac Martin and I climbed The Golden Arête (V 5.11d AI2) with 15 bolts and Offspring (III 5.11 Al) with four bolts and three points of aid. Both routes are loc...
Simian Climbing Club. Organized in 1963, the first years of club activities consisted mostly of small outings by individuals for practice rock climbing and mountaineering in the West. Only recently have larger club trips been scheduled during the ...
FALL ON SNOW—CRAMPON POINT CAUGHT IN PANTS, NO HARD HAT,CLIMBING ALONEWyoming, Mount Owen, Koven CouloirAt 1300 on August 2, Randy Huskinson (46) was descending the Koven Couloir following a successful ascent of the East Ridge of Mount Owen. He ha...
Magician Needle, Sidewalk Surprise, The Needles. In September Dick Leversee and I climbed this route on the east face of Magician Needle. From the broad saddle between Magician and its neighbor to the east, notice a prominent ramp, “The Sidewalk,”...
Peaks on Middle Kahiltna and Attempt on Moose’s Tooth. On May 26 Don Sheldon flew Margaret Young and me singly in his ski-wheeled super-cub from Talkeetna to a tributary of the middle part of the Kahiltna Glacier and to the east of it. We cruised ...
On February 14, David Shoemaker (21) and Paul Flanagan (21) were climbing in Huntington Ravine. Leaving Pinkham Notch in the late morning, they hitched a ride with Brad Ray of the United States Forest Service up to Huntington Ravine. Ray left them...
Mount Temple, First Winter Ascent. On January 3, 1969, Dave Haley and I climbed Mount Temple. From camp in Paradise valley below Sentinel Pass, two hours of wallowing in waist-deep snow took us to the pass. From there we followed the wind-blown so...
RAPPEL /LOWERING FAILURE–ROPE END PASSED THROUGH BELAY DEVICEColorado, Eldorado State ParkThe route Washington Irving (5.6) is on the West Ridge and starts from a ledge 30 feet from the base of the rock that requires a fourth class scramble for ac...
Gasherbrum II Attempts. Five Austrians led by Helmut Gaubmann failed at 7400 meters when Norbert Fischbacher contracted cerebral edema. He was evacuated in a delicate operation with the help of the Swiss expedition that had been cooperating with t...
Leo Pargiyal, Punjab. The leader of an Indian Armed Forces expedition to Leo Pargiyal (22,210 feet), Captain P. S. Bakshi, the veteran sirdar Gyalzen Mikchung, who had recently made the first ascent of Jannu with the French, and the young Sherpa K...
Wyoming, Tetons, Middle Teton. On July 10 Allan Summers (47) and Buford Brauninger were making an ascent of the Middle Teton via the Middle Teton Glacier. They had completed the climb up the Glacier and were just going from the snow to the rock, w...
Gurreholm party: I.H.M. Smart, J. Cannon, P.F. Brown. We left Mestersvig by helicopter on July 11 and landed in the Schuchert valley after leaving a food dump at the Roslin Snout and Bjornbos glaciers for the mountaineering parties. We spent four ...
Mt. Snoqualmie, North Face, first free ascent and speed ascent of New York Gully. Thanks to a weak snow year and cold temperatures in January and February, N.Y.G. received more ascents over a few weeks than the handful it’s seen since its first as...
ILLNESS-ABDOMINAL PAIN, MISCOMMUNICATION-FAILURE TO DISCLOSE MEDICAL CONDITIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 9 at the 16,700-foot level of the West Buttress of Mt. McKinley, Lai Yuk Man (3 8) collapsed from abdominal distress and was...
Pumori, South Ridge. After a strenuous 18-day approach with 160 porters under torrential rains, we established Base Camp on October 3 on the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier at 17,500 feet. The peak appeared wintery and morale sank as it snowed for t...
Castle Rock, North Ridge. This new direct class 5.5 route in the Tumwater Canyon practice area was done in September by Roger Oborn and me, and lies to the left of the Northwind Route. Starting with a strenuous free move to above a small overhang,...