Annapurna IV Attempt and Medical Expedition. A French expedition led by Philippe Paumier of the Association pour la Recherche en Physiologie de l’Environment was composed of 12 climbers and three others, mostly doctors who wanted to carry on high-...
Huntington, West Face. Michael Kennedy and I achieved what may be the fastest airplane-to-airplane ascent of Huntington. On May 15, we landed on the Tokositna Glacier. The next morning in fine weather, we headed up the impressive couloir which spl...
Siachen Glacier, Exploration. We (Harish Kapadia, leader; Vijay Kothari, Cyrus Shroff, Divyesh Muni, Vineeta Muni; Kaivan Mistry; and Captain Ashish Suhag, liaison officer) applied to climb on the Siachen Glacier in 1998. Permits were granted six ...
Satopanth, Kedarnath and Kedarnath Dome. There were successful climbs of Satopanth (7075 meters, 23,212 feet) by Germans, by Italians under the leadership of G. Federico and Swiss led by Wolfgang Stefan. Australians led by John Robert Muir and Ita...
Illimani, Phajsi Face, Inti Face, and Puerta del Sol; Pico Layca Khollu, Acalanto. In June Fumitaka Ichimura, Tatsuro Yamada, Yuki Satoh, and I established four new routes on the south face of Illimani (6,439m), the highest mountain in Bolivia’s C...
South Ridge of Fair Share Tower. From the Caves this ridge can be seen just to the left of the gully leading to the Red Sentinel. John Dietschy and Irene Ortenburger, July 9, 1957, made this enjoyable climb on good rock over the tops of an unnamed...
South Pole International Overland Expedition. During the austral summer of 1988-89, the first privately funded cross-country ski expedition to the South Pole took place. Eleven members representing five nations reached the South Pole on January 17...
Bootleg Tower, Day Canyon, Moab. Day Canyon is one of dozens of pristine canyons, rarely visited, only a few miles from Moab. Though few have towers, Day Canyon, home of an early bootlegger, has several challenging ones. In 1974 Terry McKenna and ...
Kusum Kanguru. On October 16, Japanese Koji Asano, Hiroyoshi Manome and Atsushi Sakudo completed the ascent of Kusum Kanguru (6367 meters, 20,889 feet) via the north ridge alpine-style. They made three bivouacs on the way to the top.
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, EYEGLASSES REMOVED New Hampshire, Huntington RavineOn March 13, 1988, at 1000 Charles Graves (36) and Robert Kaufman (26) started up a mixed snow/ice climb known as Damnation Gully. The climbers found neve in between pitc...
FALL ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, PARTY SEPARATED, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HATOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn September 7, while ascending the standard Southside route, one climber (36) of a party of two lost his footing at about 11,000-foot e...
North Ridge of Forbidden Peak. The last unknown ridge on pyramidal Forbidden Peak, in the Cascade Pass area, was climbed June 8th by Don Wilde, Jack Schwabland, and Fred Beckey. It is perhaps one of the most alpine routes in the United States: a h...
Larsen Harbour to Royal Bay traverse and first ascent of Peak 5,680'. Using Skip Novak’s yacht Pelagic to make the sea crossing from Ushuaia via the Falkland Islands to South Georgia, Julian Freeman-Attwood, Rich Haworth, Novak and Crag Jones were...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Moore’s WallOn June 9, 1990, as a party of four, we were planning to lead and follow the route, Golden Earring, a 5.7. The first two members of the party had already led up a short 15 mete...
Nanda Devi The Tragic Expedition. John Roskelley. Stackpole Books, Harrisburg, PA, 1987. 239 pages, illustrated. $16.95.A full accounting of the events on the 1976 Indo-American expedition described in John Roskelley’s new book Nanda Devi The Trag...
Tripyramid. My two brothers, Carl and Michael, and I spent three weeks around the Traleika Glacier waiting out storms. Our climbs on the three mornings that were clear made up for the lost time. We tried Tatum by its long northeast ridge, but snow...
San Jacinto Mountains, Taquitz Rock—On June 19, 1954, Joe Fitscher (16) and a companion, Kodis, visited Taquitz Rock on a scheduled Sierra Club climb. They first climbed the horn route using one piton. This is a difficult rock climb and more conse...
Mount Superior, South Face. I rope soloed a new route on the unclimbed south face of Mount Superior in September of 1994 (IV 5.8 A2, eight pitches). The approach to this wall starts at Superior's drainage, which crosses Little Cottonwood Canyon Ro...
Hagshu, Kishtwar Himalaya. We were Tim Whitaker, Max Holliday, Phil Booth, Ken Hopper and I. Booth, Hopper and Holliday made the first legal ascent of Hagshu (6330 meters, 20,768 feet), reaching the summit on September 16 after a three-day, alpine...
Central Tower of Paine, Insumisoa. It was reported that in February the Spanish team of Raúl Melero, Mikel Sáenz, Xabier Urdanoz and Pepe Rayo finished a route begun in 1994, Insumisoa (VI 6b+ A4, 1200 meters). Further details are lacking. (Desnivel)