P 6960 Attempt. P 6960 (22,835 feet) lies between Baintha Brakk (The Ogre) and the Latok Peaks. Our party was Noritoshi Isayama, Yukio Toji and I. We attempted unsuccessfully the south face and southeast ridge, reaching 21,000 feet on August 7. Th...
Alberta, Rockies, Mt. McGillivray. On 8 July John Bruinink (19) left Calgary and hitch hiked into Rockies to make a scrambling course. He had previously laid out the trail three weeks before. He said he “may go climbing.” He was supposed to have h...
Nilgiri North. The Australian Army Expedition was composed of Philip Pitham, David Evans, New Zealander Mark Whetu, Peter Allen, Peter Lambert, Dr. Bruce Fox, Terry McCullagh, sirdar Maila Pemba and me as leader. We arrived at Base Camp at 13,300 ...
Operating from a yacht skippered by 75-year old Bob Shepton, the four-man American-Belgian team of Ben Ditto, brothers Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll climbed four new routes huge sea cliffs in or near Sortehul fjord. ...
Annapurna III. A Royal Nepal Army expedition of 25, led by Lieutenant Colonel Bhagirath Narsingh Rana, climbed Annapurna III by its north face. They established five high camps. The summit (7555 meters, 24,787 feet) was reached on May 4 by Major P...
Huntington and McKinley, Ridge of No Return. Four young Frenchmen, Xavier Cret, Robin Molinatti, Pierre Rizzardo and Paul Robach, climbed the Terray route on Mount Huntington in the spring of 1993 in a three-day ascent. They then turned to the Rid...
Mentok I, Third Ascent. A Japanese expedition led by Susumu Sasaki made the third ascent of Mentok I (6340m). S. Sasaki, M. Kimura, W. Ueno, and Sherpa Palden reached the summit via the east ridge on August 12.Harish Kapadia, Honorary Editor, The ...
P 6210, Chaturangi Massif, Gangotri. The team, consisting of Jayant Tulpule, Bharati Kale, Bipin Raje, Vajaya Gadre, Devendra Rana and me as leader, camped at Nandanban on May 18, went up the Chaturangi Glacier and camped at Vasuki Nala on the 24t...
Chearoco south summit, East Pillar. On May 19-20, Denis Levaillant and Alain Mesili climbed the East Pillar of the south summit of Chearoco (6,127m or 6,014m). This is possibly the first route climbed on the vast east face of this remote triple-su...
Disappointment Peak. In the past this peak has been better known for its fine summit view than for its prominence as a climb. Yet its south face, which extends for almost a mile, forming the north wall of Garnet Canyon, provides a variety of ridge...
The UIAA Mountain Medicine Centre, London. The UIAA Medical Medicine Commission, founded in 1980, has flourished as an international group which now meets annually and attracts delegates from 26 countries. One of its principal functions is to coll...
Rainbow Mountain (Mount Charleston), Solar Plexus Route. The route keeps well east of the great arch on the south face of the Solar Wall, south-facing and often warm in the desert sun. It was virtually all face-climbing, much on small holds on sol...
Chamlang. Our team consisted of Andrew Knight and me as joint leaders, Neil Howells, Angus Andrew, Annette Carmichael, David Gwynne-Jones, Peter Pollard, Dr. Carolyn Knight, and scientists David Collier and Richard Hancock. We set up Base Camp on ...
In January, as we approached the base of the Standard Climb on Frankenstein Cliff, we saw a male climber’s foot fang come off on snow and he scrambled to the foot of the climb. He appeared to have difficulty reattaching the crampon, then began cli...
FALL ON SNOW, "CAUGHT" A CRAMPON WHILE DESCENDING, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn July 29, a climber (45) caught a crampon tip while descending the standard Southside route, falling about 300 feet. He was unable self-arrest, ...
Climbs along the Canadian Boundary. The south summit of Slesse Peak was climbed for the first time 3 August 1952 by John Dudra, Herb Staley, and Fred Beckey.On September 20th “The Pleiades” were climbed by John Dudra, Dwight Baker, and Fred Beckey...
The Peninsula; attempts and ascents on Anvers, Brabant, and Wiencke islands. A team of primarily British climbers aboard Alun Hubbard’s yacht Gambo, was prevented by heavy sea ice from reaching its main objective of the Arrowsmith Peninsula. Inste...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, MOSTLY NO OR INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksIn 1990, there were 20 climbing accidents, one of which was fatal, 12 of which resulted in fractures. The fatality resulted when a 15 year old boy slipped while at the t...
K2 by John Barry is a very different book. Barry was co-leader with Alan Rouse of the British expedition to climb the northwest ridge. They made a good attempt, but after the expedition was stopped by prolonged bad weather, Barry departed for home...
Mount Barrille, Winter Ascent. In February Paul Danewalter, Dr. Jim Olsen, Dr. William Brant, Ed Olmstead and I climbed Barrille, after failing on the German route on the Moose’s Tooth.Gary Bocarde