Towuangseong Falls, Korean ice climbing overview. For climbers in the Seoul area, the usual place to practice rock-climbing is Insu Peak on Bukhan Mountain. No one is exactly sure when the sport of ice- climbing was introduced to Korea, but long-t...
No one knows what caused the death of Tomaz Humar on the south face of Langtang Lirung. On November 7 the 40-year-old Slovenian started up a wide couloir leading leftward and then diagonally up toward the south ridge. He bivouacked on the ridge at...
Washington, Olympics—Mt. Constance—On June 30, Robert T. Ives (27) and five other climbers were sitting on a ledge 10 feet directly below the summit of Mt. Constance waiting for climbers ahead of them while eating lunch. Visibility was poor with l...
PROTECTION PULLED, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanWhile Biega was being rescued (see previous account), Kirk Bland (33), Luc Mailloux, and Kevin McCracken (23) were fixing pitches on Mescalit...
Chandra Bhaga Group: Daund (5,565m); Hora East (ca 5,250m); Pagoda East East (ca 5,750m), east ridge; Tara Pahar (6,227m), east ridge attempt. Our six-member expedition from Greece originally wanted to attempt unclimbed CB33a. This would involve a...
The Bowmaiden, Lucky Sailor’s Route. This formation rises above the headwaters of the south fork of Cathedral Creek, and is the most impressive of several north faces on the ridge between Mount Hoffman and Tuolumne Peak. Its summit is 10,560+ feet...
FROSTBITE, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 31, a guided group of five clients led by Blaine Smith and Willy Peabody of Alaska Denali Guiding, was forced to spend the night out in a storm at 19,000 feet onMount McKinley. Due to t...
Kedarnath. A 9-member team from Switzerland led by Christophe Peretti failed to climb Kedarnath (6940 meters, 22,770 feet) at the end of July. They were stopped at 6300 meters by soft snow and rain.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India
FALLING ICE, FALL ON ICEAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Wilson, Oh Le TabernacOn March 17 the lead climber of a party of two was ten meters up the first pitch of Oh Le Tabernac, a water ice Grade 5+ route. He was just above his second screw wh...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. The AzMC is a climbing and mountaineering club with approximately 500 members. In 2003 the club conducted several climbing schools, seminars, and master classes. Over 200 students participated in various training sessi...
Ama Dablam Attempt. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Yutaka Watai failed to climb the north ridge of Ama Dablam, the route climbed by New Zealanders in 1980. All reached 6000 meters on October 23. Then came several days of storm. Two members ...
Icing Peak, North Ridge, Previously Unreported. On May 5, 1999, Carl Oswald and I began a ten-day trip up the Matanuska and Icing Glaciers to climb the unclimbed north ridge of Icing Peak (10,955'). After four days and 30 miles of glacier travel, ...
Ritacuba Negro, Northwest Face. Armando Rangel and I climbed on January 2 the imposing northwest face, wholly on ice, of Ritacuba Negro (5389 meters, 17,680 feet), a peak which has been likened to the finer Peruvian mountains for its beauty and im...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDWashington, Mount Rainier, Gibraltar LedgeOn March 21, E. Dawes Eddy (56) fell 1600 feet while soloing the Gibraltar Ledge route on Mount Rainier. A four-person climbing team on the same route witnessed the a...
Moose's Tooth, Arctic Rage. From March 31—April 3, Ben Gilmore and Kevin Mahoney established Arctic Rage (4,500', VI WI6+R A2) on the massive east face of the Moose’s Tooth. See Gilmore’s feature earlier in this journal on their brilliant alpine-s...
FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, RAPPEL FAILURE, BAD WEATHERColorado, Hallet PeakOn August 29, 1982, David Dangle (23) and David Miller (24) were climbing the Northcutt-Carter route on Hallett Peak. While they were doing the second pitch, a se...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTNew Hampshire, Cannon Cliffs, VertigoDaniel Chaffee (20) was climbing on Vertigo. He was on the second pitch when he fell 70 feet when his protection pulled out. Chaffee was caught by his partner Ryan McKeon. He ...
Mururata and Pico Schulze, Cordillera Real. Yugoslavs from Slovenia climbed in the Cordillera Real from May 9 to 31. Aside from climbs on Huayna Potosí and Illimani, they made three new routes. On May 18, Filip Bertoncelj, Bojan Pockar, Bojan Pogr...
California, Sierra Nevada, Sugar Bowl. On 2 January John G. Hurst (33) and Molly Goodman (26) were making a well known ski tour from Sugar Bowl to Benson Hut, on the slopes of Mt. Anderson. Hurst was on skis and Goodman on snowshoes. One normally ...
Fitz Roy, North Face, 1986. A report has been received that Italians completed a new route on the north face of Fitz Roy on January 17, 1986. Details are missing.