Mt. Grosvenor, attempt on northwest face. In the spring of 2003 Grosvenor (6,367m) was still unclimbed. It has a spectacular northwest face, which we attempted as two separate pairs. Andy Cave and myself tried the central couloir directly below th...
Colorado, Halletts Peak—On July 18, John Barry (28) and David Burke (27) of Boulder were climbing the north face of Halletts Peak by the 800-foot sixth class chimney. After a long struggle with the final large overhang, lacking tension stirrups or...
PRUSSIK FAILUREAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise IcefallBrent Davis, J. Northcote, and two companions set a fixed rope on the first pitch, 120 meters, grade 5, of the Lake Louise Icefall on 2 May 1977. Northcote started up it with a prussik an...
Shivling Ascent and Attempts. A 6-member Indian expedition led by H.C. Chokshi climbed Shivling (6543 meters, 21,467 feet) in early June. The summiters included Rajesh Rana and several high-altitude porters. Unsuccessful were 3 Frenchmen led by Mi...
CORNICE FAILUREAlberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield, Mount AndromedaAt approximately 0230 on May 30, two climbers (22 and 23) departed the climbers’ parking lot to ascend the Skyladder route on Mount Andromeda. Later that morning, they...
Alpine Club of Canada. Mountains. In addition to copious climbing options from Newfoundland to Vancouver Island, Canadians are blessed with vast, unpopulated spaces in- between. But with a relatively small population inhabiting the world’s second ...
Kusum Kangguru. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Minoru Kato was joined in the field by three other Japanese climbers. Together they established two camps on the southeast face, and on October 21, six of them reached the summit (6367 meters, ...
The Gorge, Various Ice Climbs. In the Western Chugach Range, along the southeast edge of the massive Knik Glacier, lies a geological wonder known as The Gorge, a five-mile corridor lined by vertical glacial ice on one side and alpine walls on the ...
Los Portones, East Face. M. Arbeláez and R. Schutz made in January a new route on the rock wall, crowned with steep ice, of the east face of Pico Los Portones (also called San Paulín Norte, 5222 meters, 17,142 feet). The climb took two days from t...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, WEATHERWashington, Mount Rainier, Muir Snowfield Paradise GlacierOn April 1, Michael Corroone (51) and Dan Gallagher (36) set out to climb Mount Rainier. Severe weather prevented a summit attempt, and they beg...
On May 26 and 27 Scott Adamson and I completed a new route on the south face of the Mooses Tooth. Following ice runnels, chimneys, and cracks, we found our way directly to the main (east) summit. Shortly after Talkeetna Air Taxi dropped us off ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONEColorado, Crestone NeedleOn August 31, 1982, the body of Matthew O’Connor (24) was recovered from Crestone Needle, from which he had fallen a few weeks earlier. On August 12, with only an extra sweater, he had set out t...
STRANDED, INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Whitney GilmanOn October 12, New Hampshire Fish and Game received a report of two individuals with a stuck rope on the Whitney Gilman rock climb. Joe Lentini and another EMS guide took the tram to...
Chacacomani and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real, 1983. Our attention has just been called to a German expedition led by Georg Seifried and composed of Treuhard Hanke, Jürgen Bäumler, Peter Koch, Reinhold Siegel and Udo Knittel. Most of the mountains ...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 21 March Marcus Cohen, Bob Snively, Elaine Leachman, and Margo Percival (18) were descending the Monday Morning slabs. The accident occurred at the bottom of the second and last rappel. Margo Percival had gon...
Cerro Torre, The First Ten Ascents. Despite the doubts about whether the Cerro Torre was actually ascended in 1959, here in Argentina, we accept this as the first ascent. There have by January, 1985 been ten ascents of the peak: 1. Cesare Maestri ...
P 6960 Attempt. A large Korean expedition led by Lee Jong-Gun also failed to climb the peak. At the same time as the Japanese, they tried the mountain via the corridor between it and Baintha Brakk and the west face.
Alberta, Rockies, Mt. McGillivray. On 8 July John Bruinink (19) left Calgary and hitch hiked into Rockies to make a scrambling course. He had previously laid out the trail three weeks before. He said he “may go climbing.” He was supposed to have h...
Tukche. A six-woman Japanese expedition, led by Mrs. Hisako Yamamoto, made the first female ascent of Tukche. We had camps at 17,725, 20,000 and 21,325 feet and one bivouac at 21,650 feet above Base Camp on the north ridge. On May 9 Fumie Shimamur...
Upernavik region, various routes on Qaersorssuaq and Umanaq islands. This was my fourth trip to Greenland. The previous three had been to the East Coast, so I had a good feel for what the land had to offer. The plan was the same as other visits: l...