Nilgiri South Attempt. A six-man Japanese expedition, led by Motoro Iwasaki, had hoped to make an alpine-style ascent of Nilgiri South by a new route, the south face in the pre-monsoon period, but failed at 18,800 feet because of deep snow.Michael...
Mt. Combatant, Perseverance, New Route. On the evening of July 29, White Saddle Air chop- pered Alan Kearney and I to a precarious little spot in the icefall of the upper Tiedemann Glacier directly below the immense east face of Waddington. This a...
Mt. Carillon, Sweet Carillon and Pipeline. Only two hours from Whitney Portal but unseen from the North Fork Trail, the east face of Mt. Carillon (13,552') stands guard over beautiful Cleaver Cirque. On July 20 Andre Kiryanov and I went up toward ...
Fitz Roy, Aguja Guillaumet, Southeast Face. Three days after their arrival in the national park, on December 2 Daniel Anker and Thomas Wüschner climbed to the summit of Fitz Roy by the American route, the southwest ridge. On December 7 Anker soloe...
Gonapirua, Cordillera Raura. This 17,000-foot peak was ascended for the first time on May 15 by the Peruvians Anselmo Quinteros, Jeremías Herbozo, Sergio Zúñiga Montemayor, Marcelino Javier, Gregorio Girón, Rómulo Azabache, and Eladio Rivera, of t...
Volcán San José, First Ski Ascent and Descent, 1984. In October 1984 Miguel Sepúlveda, Alejandro Manfredini, Ludwig Wulf and I made the first ski ascent and descent of the Volcán San José (5850 meters, 19,193 feet) in four days.Gastón Oyarzún, Fed...
Chile, Various Activity. In the last two southern summers (December through March), I accompanied local mountaineers in repeat climbs in central Chile. However, on the four first ascents I was able to make in that period, I had no companions. On D...
Kangchenjunga, North Face Solo Attempt. Frenchman Eric Monier hoped to climb the north face of Kangchenjunga solo. He set out from Camp I at 5900 meters where the only other member of the party stayed. On April 24, the third day after leaving Camp...
FALL ON ROCK, NUT/CAM PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE BELAYColorado, Boulder CanyonOn June 4, 1984, Jay Kenney (28) and Doug Mallach (25) were climbing Bitty Buttress (5.8-) when Kenney fell. In Kenney’s words, “We had completed three pitches without incid...
Everest 1952, by André Roch. 72 pages of black and white and 8 of color photographs with commentary. Preface by Lt. General E. F. Norton, 9-page introduction by Dr. Edward Wyss- Dunant, map, and end papers. Geneva: Editions Jeheber, 1952.The membe...
Illampu West Face, Three Routes and Other Climbs. On June 25, Miha Vreca and Marko Vrevc climbed a new route on the west face of Illampu Norte (6342 meters, 20,798 feet). This is Number 1 on the accompanying drawing. They rated it UIAA VI—, 85°, A...
Swabian Caucasus Expedition, 1936. Two Stuttgart climbers, Fritz Schäfer and Hans Schweizer, did several climbs in the central Caucasus from a camp near the Stuluwzik Pass above Dop- pakh Glacier.Sugantau was climbed by the S. ridge on July 19th. ...
The Juggernaut, Dihedral Route. This route follows the only prominent open-book on the face climbed and named by Beckey in 1973 above Crown Lake, near Rock Island Pass. Vern Clevenger, Bill Dougherty, Mike Farrell and I climbed this difficult 4-pi...
Royal Arches. Royal Robbins and Joe Fitschen took three days to establish a direct route over the Royal Arches. This was all sixth-class climbing.
FALL ON ICE, ROPED BUT NOT BELAYEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AberdeenThe initial pitches of the North Glacier route of Mount Aberdeen consist of 35-degree ice, usually bare in summer. On July 14, 1990, two climbers were roped together and mov...
Nameless Tower, Trango Towers, Second Ascent. A six-man Yugoslav team from Celje, Slovenia, led by Slavko Cankar, climbed the 1200- meter-high south-southeast face of the Nameless Tower on a new route to the left of the Polish-Japanese and America...
Nanga Parbat Attempts. Although many of the dozen expeditions that went to Nanga Parbat this year were successful, there were those which did not reach the summit. These include Swiss led by Stefan Wörner and Japanese led by Takashi Ozaki, both on...
KumaunBurphu Dhura, South Summit, Second Ascent, and Main Summit, First Ascent. The Indian Mountaineering Foundation, which had organized one expedition in 1999 to Burphu Dhura (6210m), organized two more in 2000. The first expedition followed the...
Upernivik Island, West Greenland. The expedition of the Lidau Section of the German Alpine Club was a complete success. We climbed from August 9 to 27 in the mountains of Upernivik Island at 72° N. We were Volker Stelzer, Klaus, Gustav and Susi Ha...
HIS MAJESTY, KING LEOPOLD III1902-1983Prince Leopold, who was bom in the royal palace in Brussels on November 3, 1902, followed in his royal father’s, Albert I, footsteps in his love of the mountains. He attended Eton, but in the main was given a ...