Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kusum Kangguru, South Face

Kusum Kangguru, South Face. Takeshi Kanazawa, leader, Hideaki Naoi, Hajime Uematsu, Masanori Miyano and Tomooh Toyoda of the Japanese Workers Alpine Federation climbed Kusum Kangguru (20,895 feet) by its south face. Base Camp was established at 14...


Club Activities AAJ
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. Predictably, efforts during the school year concentrated on local objectives. Numerous trips were organized to the Shawangunks, Cannon Mountain, Cathedral, and the nearby cliffs in Orford and Norwich utilized by our ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, King Peak, South Ridge

King Peak, South Ridge. King Peak (16,971 feet) was first climbed in 1952 by Elton Thayer’s party, which traversed the north slope from King Col and finished up the west ridge. The east and entire west ridges have also been climbed. In 1968 Akira ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Great American Rock Climbs

Great American Rock Climbs. Richard DuMais. High Peak Books, Wilson, Wyoming, 1995. Black-and-white photos, topos. 115 pages. $21.95.Richard DuMais tackles a topic paradoxically simple and difficult in his Great American Rock Climbs by attempting ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Alps, Petit Dru

Petit Dru. George Lowe, of Salt Lake City, made the first American ascent of the Bonatti Pillar of the Petit Dru in the summer of 1965 with the Englishman Chris Jones.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kashmir and Ladakh, Brammah's Wife, Kishtwar Himal, 1975

Brammah’s Wife, Kishtwar Himal, 1978. A nine-person expedition from Lublin, led by Walenty Fiut, was active in the Nanth Nala. On September 23, 1978, Fiut, Waldemar Falczynski and Barbara Wilk climbed virgin P 5200 (17,061 feet). A first attempt o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Remote Areas Summary

Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. It was a reasonable summer in the remote sections of the Coast Mountains, but not as many “big” routes were done as in 2002. The most productive group were 10 people from the ACC Vancouver Section who enjoyed...


Book Reviews AAJ
Climb! Rock Climbing and Colorado

Climb! Rock Climbing in Colorado, by Bob Godfrey and Dudley Chel- ton. Boulder: Alpine House, 1977. 275 pages, with photos and one map.Climb! is an impressive book, and should be a welcome addition to any mountaineer’s library. It contains a selec...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Dana Plateau, The Sauce Bone Arête United States, California, Sierra Nevada

In September Patrick Dougherty and I climbed a great new 800-foot route on the Dana Plateau. The 2011 AAJ reported a route called Butterflies and Rainbows (1,000', IV 5.10+, Brown-Finkelstein), which motivated me to have a look. From resea...

| Keywords Dana Plateau, The Sauce Bone Arête, Logan Talbott
| Published 2011 | Author Logan Talbott


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Reported Mountaineering AccidentsNumber ofAccidentsReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall or Slip on Rock, North Carolina, Pilot Mountain State Park

FALL OR SLIP ON ROCKNorth Carolina, Pilot Mountain State ParkOn Friday, February 22, I (J.W. Peterson) was walking along the cliff top when I heard Brian Zimmerman (20) yelling and sliding down the rock face below the Ledge Springs Trail. I called...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, USSR, Soviet Climbs in the Pamir, 1976

Soviet Climbs in the Pamir, 1979. Despite generally bad weather in the Pamir in the summer of 1979, a great many remarkable new climbs were made. A Moscow group, V. Neverotin, V. Boshukov, B. Ermakov, V. Putrin and V. Puchkov, from July 21 to 31, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, South Face of Forbidden Peak

S. Face of Forbidden Peak. Whoever ventures into the Cascade Pass area, in the state of Washington, can hardly help admiring the sharp ridges and sheer faces that lead up to the summit of Forbidden Peak (8900 ft.). These impressive features prompt...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Andrees Land, Exploration and First Ascents

Andrees Land, exploration and first ascents. Exercise Boreal Zenith was an Army Mountaineering Association exploratory expedition to Andrees Land that was organized to commemorate 50 years of British Army Mountaineering. The expedition took place ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Weather, Washington, Mount Si

AVALANCHE, WEATHERWashington, Mount SiOn February 15, 1985, Brad Kingry (22) and Peter Vander Molen (27) were climbing near the top of the Haystack on Mt. Si. About 1400 Vander Molen was in the lead when a small avalanche swept him off and out of ...


Notes AAJ
South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Correction, Cordillera Vilcambamba

Correction, Cordillera Vilcabamba. In A.A.J., 1972 on page 171, it was Huayanay IV on which the Fedens and Nater were turned back and it was Cara Cruz which they did climb to the top.


Feature Article AAJ
The Spindrift Couloir, Scrappin' It Up After Classes in the Washington Cascades

The Spindrift CouloirScrappin’ it up after classes in the Washington Cascades by Bart PaullIt was my idea, mainly. My friend Doug Littauer was game for anything. The weather had been good: clear and cold. It was the kind of weather winter alpinist...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, U.S.S.R., Caucasus, International Mountaineering Camp, July Session

Caucasus, International Mountaineering Camp, July session. After a week of travel from Helsinki to Tallinn, Leningrad and Moscow, Bill Sumner and I were joined by Americans Dick and Louise McGowan and 52 climbers from six other countries to partic...


Feature Article AAJ
Crillon 1933

Crillon 1933William S. ChildEARLY, on a June morning, after a 150-mile boat trip from Juneau, high above the great La Perouse glacier we caught our first glimpse of Crillon, 12,730 ft., the highest unclimbed peak of the Fair weather Range. By rare...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Mt. Stuart

Washington, Mt. Stuart. On 15 June Douglas Merrill (26) and Robert Stull (26) began their climb at 7:00 a.m. from their camp at Ingalls Creek. The route is Becky’s route 1. The climb included a long easy couloir which opened up into a snowfield be...