AVALANCHE, HELICOPTER/SKI OPERATIONS—British Columbia, Cariboo Mountains. On 17 February 1974, three groups of ten skiers each on a helicopter ski week with Canadian Mountain Holidays were skiing a 3000-foot slope eight miles from the town of Vale...
Himalayas Photographs and text by Yoshikazu Shirakawa. Testimonial by Mahendra Bir Bikram Shah Deva, King of Nepal. Preface by Arnold Toynbee. Introduction by Sir Edmund Hillary. Essay, “The Great Himalayas,” by Kyuya Fukuda. New York: Harry N. Ab...
FALLING ROCK—Quebec, Mont Pinnacle, Lac Lyster. On July 2, a climber displaced, by a few inches, a block near the top of La Voie Normale on MontPinnacle. On July 6 and 7, ropes passed the block to check it and found it stable. On the 8th, a group ...
A Picture History of Mountaineering, by Ronald Clark. New York: The Macmillan Company, 1956. 350 ills.; explanatory text. Price $5.95.Mr. Clark, whose noteworthy "Victorian Mountaineers" and other related books have been reviewed in earlier issues...
Siniolchu. Siniolchu (6887 meters, 22,595 feet) is probably the most beautiful peak in Sikkim. It was first climbed by Germans in 1936 and again in 1937. In 1979, about 20 Indians from the Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute, climbing on three d...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION – TOOL PLACEMENTWashington, Banks Lake, Brush BashOn 30 December, RM (23), while leading Brush Bash, WI 4, (one pitch) at Banks Lake, Washington, sustained a leader fall resulting in a badly sprained left ankle. ...
Mount Asgard, Northeast Face and Mount Frigga, West Pillar. John Rzeczycki and I spent 50-plus days in the Asgard region of Baffin Island from late June through late August. After arriving at Base Camp via helicopter, we spent 20 days establishing...
What Are the Chances of Climbing Kangchenjunga?Norman G. DyhrenfurthKangchenjunga has always held for me a fascination that cannot be put into words. Although I have not been there, I have studied most of the available literature on the subject, a...
Chamar Attempt. An expedition of ten Englishmen and an American led by Robert Brown hoped to climb Chamar, Shringi Himal (7187 meters, 23,579 feet) by its northeast ridge, but they were not able to get higher than 5400 meters, which they reached o...
Extreme Rock & Ice. Garth Hattingh. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2001. 160 pages, 200 color photos, paperback. $39.95.Massively oversized, Extreme Rock & Ice is divided into five spectacular sections: Rock Climbs, Ice & Mixed Climb...
Qong Muztagh East (ca 6,976m). In September and October, Diana Borisova, Pavel Demesh- chik, Vasiliy Ivanov, Ivan Muyzhnek, Anna Pereverzeva, Sergey Zayko, and I visited the Western Kun Lun, near the northern border of Tibet. It was my fourth expe...
HOWARD FREDERICK JOHN LAMBART 1880-1946On 12 January 1946 our valued friend of mountaineering days, “Fred” Lambart, left his home at Ottawa on his last great adventure, and true to his sturdy nature, without fear or question; for he had lived an a...
VARIOUS: FALLS ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE BELAYS, STRANDED, BEESNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksOf the 28 accidents reported from the Shawangunks in 1995, 17 were the result of falling, and in three cases, prote...
El Sombrero, Just Another BBQ. This spectacular line on El Sombrero at the end of the Mexican Mountain Road in the Swell was finally climbed. I had traveled into this area on four prior occasions to climb this route, but was thwarted by an unusual...
Mount Hunter, North Face Attempt, and West Kahiltna Peak, Southwest Buttress. Ned Lewis and I made an attempt to climb the Lowe-Kennedy route on Hunter (A.A.J., 1978, pages 344-352) in early June. We hoped to make a quick alpine ascent and descend...
Ghhanyala Hies, attempt. A five-member ski expedition, which comprised Yan Andre (leader), Stephane Dan and Pierre Alexis de Postestad (French) and Thor Husted and Nathan Wallace (Americans), was the first officially to attempt Ghhanyala Hies (6,7...
CARDIAC ARREST-FALL ON SNOWAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Temple, East RidgeOn September 15, a party of two was ascending the Aemmer Couloir variant of this route. This is a snow and ice gully of 45 to 55 degrees. About halfway up the route o...
Mt. Leeper, Ascent. On May 13, Art Weiner and I were flown into the upper Yahtse Glacier at around 4,700 feet by Paul Claus of Ultima Thule Outfitters. As we flew in, Paul mentioned that in 1993, he had landed in his Super Cub high in a bowl on th...
Pyramid Peak, Saint Elias Mountains. On September 11, Dan Doak and I flew to 4200 feet 2½ miles south of Pyramid Peak, which lies 22 miles southeast of McCarthy, hoping to finish making the first ascent that Dan, Jesper Krogholt from Denmark and I...
James W. Ebert, 1947–2011Jim Ebert was born and raised in the geographically oppressed Plains of the Midwest. In spite of this initial handicap, he grew into one of the most impressive climbing instructors and out- doorsmen in America.His parents,...